Considering the recent catastrophic effects of Hurricane Helene on Western North Carolina, it’s likely that a significant number of homes for sale in the area have suffered water damage.

Water damage can be a costly and disruptive problem for homeowners. As a potential home buyer, it’s essential to be vigilant and know how to spot the signs. Here’s a guide to help you identify potential water damage, assess its severity, and make informed decisions about whether to proceed with a home purchase.

Why it matters

Water damage must never be taken lightly. It can lead to a host of issues, including:

Structural Damage: Water can weaken the structural integrity of a home, affecting walls, floors, and foundations.

Mold Growth: Damp conditions create the perfect breeding ground for mold, which can trigger respiratory problems and allergies.

Electrical Hazards: Water damage can compromise electrical systems, leading to short circuits and fire hazards.

Decreased Property Value: Water damage can significantly reduce the value of a property.

Water damage red flags

Water damage can hide in clever ways. Knowing what to look for puts you in the driver’s seat. Here are some signs:

• Visible Water Stains: Look for water stains on ceilings, walls, and floors. These can be discolored patches or streaks. Check for water marks on carpets and upholstery. Inspect basements and crawl spaces for signs of past flooding.
• Musty Odors: A persistent, unpleasant odor, often described as “musty” or “mildew-like,” can indicate hidden water damage. Your nose knows! Use your sense of smell to detect any unusual odors.
• Peeling Paint and Wallpaper: Blistering, peeling, or bubbling paint can be a sign of water damage. Water damage can also cause wallpaper to loosen or discolor.
• Mold Growth: Visible mold growth, often appearing as black, green, or gray patches, is a clear indication of water damage. Look for mold in hidden areas like behind cabinets, under sinks, and in crawl spaces.
• Wood Rot and Decay: Inspect wooden beams, joists, and framing for signs of rot or decay. Look for soft, spongy, or discolored wood.
• Electrical Issues: Be cautious if you notice flickering lights, frequent power outages, or a burning smell. Water damage can compromise electrical wiring, leading to safety hazards.
• Foundation Problems: Cracks in the foundation, uneven floors, or doors that stick can be signs of water damage affecting the foundation.

How to know for sure

When you spot tell-tale signs of water damage, here are some additional steps to take:

• Hire a Professional Inspector: A qualified home inspector can conduct a thorough examination and identify potential water damage issues.
• Ask the Seller Questions: Inquire about any past water damage incidents, repairs, and insurance claims filed.
• Review Property Records: Check property records for any water damage claims or insurance reports.
• Use a Moisture Meter:  A moisture meter can help detect hidden water damage in walls, floors, and ceilings.

Potential solutions for water damage

Does uncovering water damage mean you should walk away from a home purchase? That depends upon the severity of damage. For minor damage, repairs can be negotiated with the seller.

For minor water damage, some common solutions include:

• Drying out affected areas with dehumidifiers and fans.
• Cleaning and disinfecting surfaces to prevent mold growth.
• Replacing damaged materials like drywall, flooring, or insulation.

Severe water damage is far more costly and extensive and may include:

• Structural repairs to address foundation issues or weakened framing.
• Mold remediation to remove and clean up mold-infested areas.
• Electrical system repairs or replacement.
• Complete renovation of affected areas.

To buy or not to buy… That is the question!

Should you walk away? When considering a property with potential water damage, weigh the following factors:

• Severity of the Damage: Evaluate the extent of the damage and the potential costs of repairs.
• Seller’s Willingness to Disclose: A transparent seller who is upfront about the issue may be more willing to negotiate a fair price or make necessary repairs.
• Your Budget and Time Constraints: Consider your financial resources and the time you’re willing to invest in repairs and renovations.
• Long-Term Impact: Assess how water damage might affect the property’s value and your future plans.

If water damage is minor and the seller is willing to make necessary repairs, it may be worthwhile to proceed with the purchase. However, if the damage is severe or the seller is unwilling to address the issue, you might just want to pass on the deal.

By understanding the signs of water damage and taking a proactive approach, you can protect yourself from costly repairs and ensure a sound investment in your future home.

Buying or selling a home in Western North Carolina?

Avoid unpleasant surprises! Contact Asheville Home Inspector Peter Young before signing any contracts. Call (828) 808-4980, or click here to make an appointment.

The post Unmasking water damage: A buyer’s guide appeared first on Peter Young Home Inspections.

Vacation time is here! You’re so eager to hit the road that you’re not thinking about misfortunes that could strike your house when you’re gone. 

Our purpose is not to spoil your fun or convince you to cancel your plans. Quite the reverse! We’re here to share a few common-sense precautions so you can enjoy a more worry-free vacation. 

Let’s take a look at some common home disasters that can occur during vacation time.

Hot hot hot!

Summer is famous for thunderstorms and lightning-related home fires. When nobody’s around to call 911, a fire can gulp down your house for lunch. The best solution is a professionally installed lightning rod. Get the message? Don’t do this yourself. Any metal protrusion on your house must be grounded properly to prevent disaster. 

Call a licensed electrician to install your lightning rod.

Another source of home fires is faulty or failing wiring. If you live in an old house, be sure to have your wiring checked by a professional before going away.

Finally, it helps to have a neighbor you trust keep an eye out for you and call 911 in event of fire.

Lawn death

All the recent hot weather can fry your lawn, opening it to insect invasion. While excessive heat scorches your grass, extreme heavy rainfall makes it vulnerable to disease and fungus. Your best bet while you’re gone is to leave the number of your lawn care service with a trusted neighbor, in case of an emergency. Offer the same when your neighbor goes away. Fair is fair.

Burglary

Going away on Wednesday for two weeks? Why not just advertise it to the world on Facebook? Criminals like to troll the Internet for opportunities. And don’t let your kids share your vacation plans on all their social media venues. Save your vacation pictures until you get home.

If you plan to be gone for a while, arrange with your lawn service to keep your grass mowed, and place a hold on mail and newspaper deliveries. If you’re not inclined to suspend your mail service, ask a trusted neighbor to collect your mail daily.

Keep motion-activated lights operational while you’re gone. Burglars work best in the dark.

Home invasion

We’re talking about pests, not robbers! Bees, wasps, yellow jackets, bats, rats, or squirrels can find their way in and wreak havoc on your home. They build nests in your wood framing, munch their way through electrical wires, and leave droppings in their wake. 

If a rat gets electrocuted chewing through wires, it will begin to decompose quickly in the summer heat, and the stench can become unbearable. 

Be sure to keep your eave vents screened securely, and do the same with openings in your crawlspace.

Do a visual inspection regularly for places around your home where varmints can enter, and be sure to keep them sealed securely.

I think that I shall never see a thing as heavy as a tree…

As mentioned above, summer means storms! Think high winds, heavy rain, saturated soil, and falling trees or limbs. A falling tree can really do a number on your house!

Check out the trees around your home. Are there old, vulnerable trees within falling distance of your roof, or huge, heavy branches hanging overhead? If so, call a certified arborist to come out and take a look. They know how to spot warning signs that might spell trouble for your house. Do this a few months before you plan to leave on vacation.

While on your property, an arborist can cut back overhanging branches, which are best kept at least eight to ten feet from your roof line. Also, they can identify trees that are notorious for uprooting, such as Bradford pears, which might spell disaster in high winds.

When spores attack!

Summer heat and humidity are a perfect recipe for spores. That’s why your HVAC system is your friend, especially when you’re away on vacation. The system not only keeps your home cool, but it draws humidity from inside to outside.

Never leave the AC turned off when you go away. Just a few days are all it takes for spores to take root and fill your home with mold. Keep the AC set at 77 while you’re gone. That should be enough to keep mold at bay.

Water, water everywhere

Do you have known issues with your foundation? I you answered yes, then it’s imperative to keep water at bay. Be sure your yard is graded away from your house, and keep your rain gutters clear to prevent water from running down to your foundation. You may even have to install a French drain to carry water away.

There are other ways water can trash your home when you’re not there. One of the biggest culprits is that aging water supply or drain hose on your washing machine. If you see any suspicious bulges, it’s time to replace them. Also, to be on the safe side, turn off the water supply to your washer before you drive away.

Don’t forget that ancient water heater. If it fails while you’re gone, it can send its whole 75-gallon load rushing across your house. If your water heater was installed back in the Jurassic days, it is probably best to cut the power, turn off the water supply, and drain the water out before you go, if possible. But BEWARE! When you return, you MUST turn on the water supply and fill the tank before switching on the power, to avoid burning out the heating elements.

Take these tips to heart for peace of mind during your vacation.

Buying or selling a home in Western North Carolina?

Avoid unpleasant surprises! Contact Asheville Home Inspector Peter Young before signing any contracts. Call (828) 808-4980, or click here to make an appointment.

The post Going away for vacation? Take steps to prevent disaster before it strikes appeared first on Peter Young Home Inspections.

Ever heard of kickout flashing? We would not be surprised if the term is unfamiliar. It’s time to learn about it. Kickout flashing costs very little, but it may end up saving you thousands of dollars of repair for serious water damage to your home.

Let’s take a look at what it is. Kickout flashing is also called diverter flashing. What does it do? It diverts water away from walls in places where sloped roofs and walls meet. Water running down and into your walls can lead to structural damage, rot, and mold that may not be evident until the problem becomes severe. At that point, major home repair costs are looming.

Do ask, do tell!

The International Residential Code (IRC) has required kickout flashing since 2009, but most roofers won’t install them unless you ask. North Carolina Residential Building Code doesn’t mention it by name, but the instructions are clear:

“Flashings shall be installed at roof and wall intersections, wherever there is a change in roof slope or direction and around roof openings. A flashing shall be installed to divert the water away from where the eaves of a sloped roof intersect vertical sidewalls.” 

The code describes the flashing as extending a minimum of 4” up the sidewall and have a 110-degree angle. This is sufficient to divert water away from the wall, but not so severe as to trap debris or create ice dams in winter that can lead to water backing up along the wall. The code also states that if the flashing is metal, it must be corrosion-resistant with a thickness of not less than 0.019 inches (0.5 mm).

Put simply, kickout flashing is essential to protect your home from expensive water damage, and yet it’s often overlooked or even misunderstood by many roofers.

Check out this video of what can happen without kickout flashing.

Roof replacement time

If it’s time to replace your roof, this is a great time to install kickout flashing. Even if your local code doesn’t require it, we suggest strongly that you ask the roofer to include it. 

Most forms of siding can be cut and tweaked by a roofer during installation of kickout flashing. However, stucco, masonry stone, or bricks may require a specialist to make the repair.

Here’s a video of extensive damage inside a wall on a home with stone veneer that didn’t have kickout flashing.

Do it yourself!

Installing kickout flashing is not too hard if you’re an accomplished do-it-yourselfer. But if you have any doubts about your ability, hire a qualified contractor. If you do it incorrectly, you may end up with worse damage than if you hadn’t done it at all!

Click here for a video to show you how to install kickout flashing on vinyl siding.

Please note: There are areas of this repair where caulking is needed. Don’t skimp on caulk quality. Buy the really good stuff with long life expectancy. Even then, it would be a good idea to check up there at least once a year to make sure the caulking is still secure.

We really must insist!

If you’re buying new construction, insist on kickout flashing. Do the same if you’re having your roof replaced. Don’t assume the contractors will do that automatically. Most of them probably will not. Installation before the roof is built or replaced will cost extremely little.

Kickout flashing at your local home store or online generally costs around $10 to $15. And even if you are installing after the fact and forgoing do-it-yourself in favor of hiring a professional, installing kickout flashing should cost only a few hundred dollars. Compare that to the cost of tearing out siding, soffits, fascia, insulation, drywall, and more. 

It’s a no-brainer! If you don’t have kickout flashing on your home, our best advice is to have it installed as soon as possible.

The post <strong>Inexpensive kickout flashing protects your home from water damage</strong> appeared first on Peter Young Home Inspections.

Summer rains have arrived here in the mountains. While they can bring slightly cooler temperatures and more vibrant greenery, heavy rains can spell trouble for homeowners with septic systems on their property. Without warning, the drain begins gurgling after a shower. Minutes later, water is pouring out of the toilet across the bathroom floor. Now it’s a race against time to contain it with the wet/dry shop vacuum. Can you suck it up fast enough? If you dump it into the bathtub, the drain won’t carry it away. You have to close the drain and start filling the tub with it, and after you’ve stemmed the flow, you can begin sucking it up again for disposal out on the lawn. If you’re one of the lucky ones, it’s only water, but for the less fortunate, waste matter flows up from the system into your house. And that stinks! Literally.

What causes this backup, and what can you do about it? Let’s take a look.

Drain field woes

One of the biggest culprits in this scenario is a flooded drain field. 

When heavy rainfall saturates the soil around your septic tank, it limits the system’s capacity to release liquids into the soil. This can cause abnormally high levels of liquids to fill up the tank.

If you don’t see flooding on the grass around your drain field, it’s possible your tank may need pumping. When was the last time your septic tank was pumped? Experts recommend pumping every three to five years, depending on usage and tank size. For example, if you live in a two-person household with a large tank, you have a bit more leeway. But if your tank is small (750 gallons), three or four years is the most you may want to wait between pumpings.

I saw the signs, and they opened up my eyes!

What are some signs of a flooded drain field?

• Slow discharge from household drains (sinks, showers, tubs)
• Slow flushing toilets
• Standing water or mushy, spongy ground around the septic tank
• Water back-ups in your basement or around floor drains
• Gurgling sounds from your drains and/or toilets
• Sewage smell around your septic tank
• Backups and flooding from drains and toilets

If your system is flooding in the absence of heavy rain, and it hasn’t been all that long since your last pumping, there are two more possible reasons: Lack of oxygen in the tank caused by heavy grease, or perhaps your drain field pipes have collapsed or become broken. Lack of oxygen can also occur if the soil around the septic system becomes tightly compressed from cars or heavy machinery.

Before the rains come

“They” say an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure. Regard-less of who “they” are, let’s just agree. When you know some heavy rains may be coming, there are some steps you can take to get ready, especially if you’ve had previous problems with your system during rainy season.

• Have your septic tank inspected by a professional to be sure it can handle heavy rainfall
• Do not put anything other than bodily wastes and toilet paper into your toilet – NO sanitary napkins, baby wipes, paper towels, disposable diapers, or dental floss
• Use only biodegradable cleaners in your toilets, sinks, and tubs – bleach or other harsh chemicals can kill off your system’s “good” bacteria
• Plant grass above your drain field to aid water absorption
• Keep gutters and runoff water directed away from drain fields
• Don’t drive cars or use heavy equipment over the drain field
• If your system is due for pumping, do it several weeks or several months before the rainy season – DO NOT have your system pumped right after heavy rains when the drain field is saturated, or the tank can pop up out of the ground!

In addition to these steps, get ready for limited water consumption as stormy weather draws near. Some suggestions are to prepare no-cook meals that you can consume with paper plates and cups and disposable flatware to avoid washing dishes on the day or days of heavy rains. Don’t run the dishwasher or washing machine during or close to heavy rains. Refrain from using the garbage disposal. In fact, if you have a septic tank, the less you use the garbage disposal, the better.

During stormy weather

Be prepared. That’s the Boy Scouts’ motto. It’s not always that simple. 

Even if you’ve followed the advice above, flooding might still be a possibility. Take these additional steps during heavy rainfall:

• Limit water use – don’t do laundry or dishes, and flush toilets only when absolutely necessary
• Don’t work around the septic tank or walk on the drain field area during mushy or flooded conditions
• If water enters your home through the toilet or drains, be ready with a wet/dry shop vac; two are ever better, because you can dump one outside while the other one is being used

After the deluge

If water still hasn’t receded a few days after the rain has stopped, call a septic tank expert to assess the situation, but as mentioned earlier, never pump out your tank during flooded conditions. Here are a few steps you can take:

• Reduce water usage for a few days by washing clothes at a laundromat and taking sponge baths if you can’t shower at a friend’s house
• Administer a “shock treatment” to your system to reactivate beneficial bacteria and enzymes that digest waste – you may have to do this a few times over a period of a few weeks

Click here for information about a septic shock treatment available at most home and hardware stores.

Staying high and dry

If your septic system backs up in heavy storms, don’t panic. Follow the steps we’ve outlined above to prepare yourself and possibly deal with a water backup if it happens. Remember to limit water usage during rainy weather, but once rainy season ends you can probably breathe easy once again.

Septic video inspection and pumping

Peter Young Home Inspections can arrange for septic video inspection and pumping. Click here to make an appointment.

Buying or selling a home?

Avoid unpleasant surprises! Contact Asheville Home Inspector Peter Young before signing any contracts. Call (828) 808-4980, or click here to make an appointment.

The post What to do if your septic system backs up during heavy rains appeared first on Peter Young Home Inspections.

In our homes we rely on water in so many ways, such as baths and showers, dishwashers, washing machines, watering our lawns and plants, and more. Putting it simply, water is your friend. Until it isn’t!

When water sneaks out of where it should be, it can very quickly become your enemy, wreaking costly damage to your floors, foundation, and furnishings. Can it happen to you? It sure can! A majority of homes will spring a water leak. Some will be minor, but others can be devastating to both your home and your wallet. The worst part? Not all water leaks are obvious. You may not know about a leak until it has done serious damage. That’s why it’s crucial for you, the homeowner, to learn how to find water leaks before they do much damage. Here are some tips and tricks for finding leaks.

Check your bill

If you are on a municipal water system, you receive a monthly water bill. 

Generally, there’s not much variation in your water bill. However, if you are watering your lawn and garden a lot in the summer, your bill may increase by as much as 40%.

The average family of four uses no more than 12,000 gallons a month, according to the EPA. If you’re using much higher amounts, you probably have a leak somewhere. You’d be surprised how quickly it all adds up. A leaky faucet with a steady drip can waste nearly 10,000 gallons a year! That’s the equivalent of washing 300 loads of laundry, and it can add up to 30% to your water bill. 

If you are on a well, you won’t be getting a water bill, but that doesn’t mean you’re not wasting hard-earned cash. Your well pump is using electricity to pull that water up from the ground, and a steady leak can raise your power bill. Leaky faucets, shower heads, and hoses can increase the demand on your well pump as much as two to three gallons per minute. That can increase pump demand by more than 4,000 gallons over a 24-hour period. That means your electric bill is racking up all that extra demand.

Become a do-it-yourself water meter reader

Again, this only works if your home is connected to a municipal water supply. In colder climates, the water meter may be located underneath a small, manhole-style cover near the street. In warmer areas it may be located on the side or back of your home where the water supply enters. Here’s the recipe for using the meter to check for leaks:

1. Turn off all faucets in your home, and be sure the dishwasher and washing machine are not in use.
2. Check the water meter and write down the numbers.
3. Wait one hour.
4. Check the meter again. If the numbers have gotten higher, there’s a leak somewhere in your system.
5. Now you must determine if the leak is inside or outside your home. Find the main shutoff valve in your home. This may be in a basement or utility room where the main water supply pipe enters your home. Turn off the shutoff valve, and then check a few faucets to be sure the water has stopped.
6. Now check the water meter again, and write down the numbers. 
7. Wait another hour. 
8. Check the meter again. If the numbers haven’t changed, the leak is somewhere inside your home. If the numbers have changed the leak is in the water line that runs underground to your house. Call your water company and report the situation.

The green, green grass of home

Is there an area on your lawn where the grass is greener and grows faster than the rest of your yard? You might have a leaking water line underneath that area. If that part of the yard is always wet and squishy, you can be sure there’s a leaky pipe under there. If you’re not comfortable dealing with it yourself, call in a professional.

Take a look under the hood

If your meter test indicated a leak, or if your electric bill seems to be creeping up, it’s time to check the obvious places where leaks can spring. Look in the cabinets under all your sinks, and make sure they are dry. Next, check around tubs, showers, and toilet for signs of leaks, and then check below your water heater, washing machine, and dishwasher for small puddles or water stains. If you find puddles, shut off the water supply to the appliance and call in a plumber.

Time to dye!

If you hear trickling noises from your toilet tank, it probably means flapper has become brittle, and water is leaking into the bowl. This can waste upward of 200 gallons of water a day, and raise you water bill a few hundred dollars within a year.

Don’t hear anything? The leak may be too small for your ears to detect. Here’s how to tell if your flapper has a trickle. Get a bottle of red food coloring and put a few drops into the tank of all your toilets. Wait five minutes. If you see red in the bowl, it’s time to replace your flapper. This is an easy, do-it-yourself job. Or call a plumber if you’re not comfortable tinkering around in your toilet tank.

Click here to see a Home Depot video on toilet flapper replacement.

Become a leak detective

Some leaks are obvious, such as finding water leaking underneath your kitchen sink. Unfortunately, many can be stealth leaks, which might go unnoticed until they cause serious damage to your home. 

Here are some things to notice:

• A dripping noise. If you hear a dripping sound inside walls, that’s a strong indicator that you have a problem. However, some leaks are silent but deadly, such as water oozing down along a wall stud. 
• Wall or baseboard discoloration. Water might be leaking behind the drywall and soaking through, or it could be collecting at the bottom of baseboards.
• Bubbling paint or wallpaper. If the wall board is wet, paint or wallpaper my have trouble adhering to the wall. If this is accompanied by a bulge in the wall, chances are this has been going on for a long time. The damage is more extensive and that section of wall board will need to be removed and replaced after the leak is fixed.
• Musty odors. An unchecked leak is an ideal breeding ground for mold. Sometimes you may see black blotches on your side of the wall, but many times the mold is growing out of sight behind the wall. Don’t ignore musty odors. They are a warning sign of what could be a serious and costly problem.

This may be alarming!

When it comes to leaks, early detection is your best insurance policy. Some areas are just “leak magnets.” You can install Zircon Electronic Leak Detectors in those areas. 

Put them in cabinets under sinks, near your water heater, and close to water pipes that lead to exterior faucets that might burst during cold winter months. A shrill alarm will alert you to the slightest amount of water, giving you time to shut off the water supply and make repairs before serious damage occurs to your home. 

In conclusion, always take water leaks seriously, and stop them before they do serious damage to your home.

Buying or selling a home in or near Asheville?

Avoid unpleasant surprises! Contact Asheville Home Inspector Peter Young before signing any contracts. Call (828) 808-4980, or click here to make an appointment online.

The post Water is your friend. Until it isn’t! appeared first on Peter Young Home Inspections.

Everyone knows that you need to get a thorough, professional home inspection before purchasing a home. Sometimes it’s all smooth sailing, but there are times when inspectors zero in on serious issues. Are these issues “deal breakers?” That depends on how serious (and expensive) they are, but it also can depend upon the direction of the real estate market at the time.

In areas where there’s a glut of homes, buyers have a lot of leeway in demanding that sellers make fixes before the sale. However, in a hot sellers’ market like Western North Carolina is in currently, sellers know that buyers can’t be too choosy and are more reluctant to agree to expensive fixes. But there are some issues that need to be fixed before lenders will agree to finance the property. Let’s look at some of the more serious issues that may arise in a home inspection.

Foundation issues

Nearly all houses have some kind of “settling.” Over time, a home’s weight causes it to settle into the ground. This can create hairline cracks in the basement or even in walls. Most of these small cracks are not significant, but larger cracks can indicate a serious problem. 

For example, a quarter inch crevasse traversing a basement wall from floor to ceiling might indicate a serious problem. A house supported on concrete blocks is an accident waiting to happen. Likewise with slanted floors. If the house has settled too much, it may result in structural weakness. If cracks are large, the inspector may recommend a structural engineer to decide whether they are dangerous. If the home has serious structural issues, this is likely to be very expensive, and until it is fixed, banks may not offer financing on the structure.

Water damage

When there is standing water in the basement or evidence of water stains elsewhere in a house, inspectors hear alarm bells. While a small water stain on the ceiling may look like a simple fix, it could be evidence of a wider problem. Water works its way downward, so a stain in the basement might be caused by a leak in the roof. 

The trouble could be the roof or skylights, drain tile cracks, or a serious issue with the home’s plumbing system. The cause should be determined before buying the home. Water intrusion in a home can lead to another serious issue, and that is mold.

Black mold

It’s not unusual to find surface mold in poorly ventilated bathrooms, but black mold in a basement or crawl space is a far more serious issue. Black mold can cause allergies, asthma, and other serious health issues. If mold is widespread, the cost of remediation can be very expensive.

First you must bear the cost of removal, and then the added costs of making sure it doesn’t return. Serious mold issues might be due to foundation cracks allowing water to seep in, or it could be caused by roof leaks or plumbing failures. Any of those three causes require expensive fixes.

Antiquated or faulty electrical systems

Pre-1960 homes may have an antiquated “knob and tube” electrical system. In most areas, those systems don’t meet local codes, which means the home’s entire electrical system will have to be replaced. In some cases, walls may have to come down in order to do the wiring repairs.

Speaking of wiring, old wiring may be a serious fire hazard, and replacing it can set you back many thousands of dollars. Then there’s aluminum wiring, which was discontinued in Western North Carolina after 1974. Aluminum wires can overheat, resulting in fire damage. If a home is found to have aluminum wiring, it will need to be replaced.

Vermin infestations

There are vermin, and then there are vermin! It’s not too serious if an inspector finds some evidence that there were mice in the home. Most homes will host mice from time to time, and the owner can put out traps or even get a few cats to remedy the situation.

Termites are another story entirely. Termites show up when moisture gets into wood in your home, and they can literally eat you out of house and home, as the saying goes.

Getting rid of them can be difficult and very costly. First you must kill them, then you must replace the wood they destroyed, and finally you must keep an eye on the area to be sure they don’t come back. Small areas can be spot treated, but larger infestations may require tenting the house, and this is a costly endeavor.

Inspectors may find other pests, such as squirrels, bats, and raccoons. They will need to be removed by professionals, and then their means of entry must be sealed up. This requires some repair, but is far less of an issue than termites.

These are some of the more serious issues home inspectors find. Are they deal breakers? They can be. If they prevent lenders from financing the property, they will have to be fixed, but in a hot sellers’ market it may be more difficult to get sellers to make these repairs. However, as most realtors will tell you, “Everything is negotiable.” It’s always an issue of what each side is willing to compromise to make the deal happen.

Buying or selling a home?

Avoid unpleasant surprises! Contact Asheville Home Inspector Peter Young before signing any contracts. Call (828) 808-4980, or click here to make an appointment.

The post Serious home inspection issues could impact closings appeared first on Peter Young Home Inspections.

A common question that customers ask home inspectors is, “What is included in a home inspection?” Home inspections are essential to the process of buying and selling homes. Financing may hinge upon the findings and subsequent remediation of issues that may be found during inspections. If you’re in the market as a buyer or seller, a home inspection will soon be on your agenda.

Here in part 2, we’ll take a look at:

• Basements/crawlspaces 
• Heating and cooling 
• Fireplaces/stoves 
• Plumbing 
• Electrical
• Interior doors and windows

Look out below!

Not all homes have basements. Some have crawlspaces, and some are built on slabs. A lot of basements are dimly-lit spaces with bare concrete or block walls – places to house the water heater, furnace, electrical panel, or HVAC system. For a home inspector, basements are a great vantage point from which to gain valuable insights into the overall health of your home. From visible cracks in the foundation, to water stains, to telltale signs of pest invasion, a basement tells a story to an inspector’s trained eyes. 

Then there are “finished basements,” with all the amenities, that serve as recreation rooms, home office space, or even separate guest quarters. Since these have finished walls and floor coverings, they can hide issues from the inspector. Still, there are signs, such as a musty smell or dampness, that signal the picture isn’t as rosy as it may appear.

Your inspector checks the foundation for cracks in the walls and floor, and gaps in the fitting of doors and windows. Another sign of foundation damage can be seen outside the basement in uneven ceilings and roof structures.
Unfinished basements can reveal excess moisture and signs of leaks. The inspector looks for leaking pipes, water seepage through windows or wall cracks, and telltale evidence of past flooding and water damage. If the basement ceiling is the subfloor for the level above, the inspector will check for structural integrity and the condition of the insulation. If the insulation is hanging loose and damp, there is a problem with excess moisture, which can penetrate the home.
Basements with water issues or poor air circulation can negatively affect air quality in the rest of the home. The two major issues are the presence of mold from excess moisture and the presence of radon gas in the ground or water supply. Moist, leaky basements usually signal the arrival of pests, such as insects or rodents, which can be potential health hazards.

What’s crawling around down there?
Your crawlspace should be safe and clean. Your inspector must be able to enter safely to check for:

• Foundation cracks
• Moisture and mold
• Wiring problems
• Framing issues
• Insect and vermin infestations
• Ventilation
• Vapor barriers
• Asbestos or other hazardous materials

The first important step in a crawlspace inspection is that the inspector needs to be able to enter safely. Assuming the entry is large enough to pass through, the inspector will first look inside to see if there are exposed construction materials, exposed nails, unprotected electrical wires, standing water, or a strong smell of mold. If these are present, the inspector will not go inside, and the crawlspace will not pass inspection.
Failing a crawlspace inspection is not a Shakespearean tragedy. Chances are good your inspector can make recommendations to remedy the situation.

Can your home FAIL an inspection?
The short answer is NO. However, poor inspection reports may be reasons for axing the deal or renegotiating price. See our blog on this topic for more information.

Blowing hot and cold

Your home inspection will include a check of the HVAC system. HVAC stands for heating, ventilation, and air conditioning. The system includes the integrated components of the home’s heating and air conditioning system, including main units, air handlers, pipes, ducts, electrical components, and central thermostat. It keeps your home warm in winter and cool in summer, and it also regulates indoor air quality and removes excess moisture through a cycle of inside-outside air circulation.

Home inspectors will check the overall condition of the HVAC system, but they can only inspect what they can see. This includes what can be seen in crawlspaces and attics, such as ducts and vents. Some elements are hidden in walls or under floors, such as pipes and electrical components.

Things that are invisible to the inspector are not included in the inspection. That being said, an experienced inspector knows how to spot signs of potential hidden defects. He may use a moisture detector to pinpoint dampness. Considering the cost of HVAC repair or replacement, it is worth the price to hire an experienced inspector for peace of mind. 

Your HVAC system requires regular maintenance. Click here for a handy month by month guide to HVAC maintenance.

Fireplaces and wood stoves

For many people, winter means it’s time to light the fireplace or woodburning stove. Your HVAC system may keep your home at a steady temperature, but nothing warms your bones on a cold night like a bright, crackling wood fire.

Woodburning appliances must not be taken lightly. My Chimney reports more than 20,000 chimney fires in the U.S. each year. Some are not apparent until an inspector finds the blackened evidence. Others burn so hot that they take out part or all of the home in a fiery blaze. If that’s not bad enough, there’s always the risk of carbon monoxide poisoning. That’s why it’s good to have an inspector check out the appliance and chimney before you buy a home, and that’s why we call in the services of a chimney specialist if your home requires a stove, fireplace, or chimney inspection.

If the stove or fireplace is used regularly, it should be visually inspected and cleaned each fall before fire season sets in. Chimney and stove pipe brush kits available at home stores, but if you’re not comfortable on a ladder or on the roof, then you’d be better off calling in a chimney sweep each fall before winter sets in.

The pipes, the pipes…

What does a home inspector look for in a home’s plumbing system? Generally, the inspector will check all sinks, toilets, bathtubs, showers, and outdoor spigots to ensure they are working properly. This also includes installed systems throughout the house. This means anything attached to the home that would require tools for removal, such as a sump pump for removing moisture from the basement.

The inspector checks for leaks or evidence of leaks. A seasoned inspector knows exactly where to look on floors, along the foundation, and on basement walls. Leaking water may indicate that pipes require repair or replacement before they cause water damage to foundations, floors, and ceilings.

I’ve got the power!

Another area of inspection is the home’s electrical system. Once again, the inspector can only check what can be seen. Wiring problems behind walls can be overlooked, however the inspector may find electrical issues in attics, basements, or crawlspaces, such as exposed wires or improper junctions.

The inspector will visit each room and turn on all lights and electrical fixtures. He or she may do a tactile inspection of wall outlets and receptacle plates to ensure they are not warm to the touch. Finally, the inspector will check the main breaker panel to ensure there are no overloaded breakers or faulty connections.  Some older homes still have fuses, rather than breaker panels. If the fuse box is very old, the inspector may recommend that the system be checked by a licensed electrician for safety and peace of mind.

Windows and doors

On the interior side of windows, the inspector will determine if the thermal seal is broken (the glass is going cloudy or there is moisture between the panes). Windows should operate smoothly and not fall when let go, and they should lock securely. There should be no cracked or broken panes, water staining of the wood, and the windows should be painted or stained to protect the wood. Weather stripping around doors and windows must be intact and in place securely.

As you can see, a home inspection is serious business! Without a favorable inspection, a buyer may not be able to secure financing and insurance.

Buying or selling a home?

Avoid unpleasant surprises! Contact Asheville Home Inspector Peter Young before signing any contracts. Call (828) 808-4980, or click the link below to make an appointment.

The post What’s in a home inspection? Part 2 appeared first on Peter Young Home Inspections.

A common question that customers ask home inspectors is, “What is included in a home inspection?” Home inspections are essential to the process of buying and selling homes. Financing may hinge upon the findings and subsequent remediation of issues that may be found during inspections. If you’re in the market as a buy or seller, a home inspection will soon be on your agenda.   These are the areas covered in most Asheville home inspections:  

• Roof
• Attic/Garage
• Exterior
• Basement, Foundation, Crawlspace, and Structure
• Heating & Cooling
• Fireplace
• Plumbing
• Electrical
• Permanently Installed Kitchen Appliances
• Doors/Windows/Interior
• Insulation

  Let’s take a closer look. This article is part one, and will be continued next month.

What’s up with the roof?

Your roof is an essential component of an Asheville home inspection. Think of your roof like a turtle’s protective shell. It keeps out the heat in summer, fends off the cold in winter, and keeps your home dry when it rains. That’s why it’s important to be sure your roof is doing the job for which it was intended. Trouble is, small roof issues can be hard to spot, but over time they can be serious. One single point of water entry can transform a rainstorm into a damp, moldy disaster for your ceiling. 

A favorable roof inspection is desirable, since a damaged or deteriorated roof can put the brakes on mortgage financing or insurance coverage.

In addition to its outer covering of tiles, shingles, or other materials, roof systems contain additional components. Plumbing and gas vents, attic fans, skylights, chimneys, and stovepipes that penetrate the roof can be sources of potential leaks, particularly as the home and roof ages. Inspectors routinely leaks in the flashing or sealing around these penetrations. Left unattended, rot and mold will become unwanted visitors, and the cleanup and repairs can be costly. Improperly installed or clogged gutters and downspouts can allow water to seep under shingles and damage what lies beneath.

Inspectors have their own set of rules about walking on rooftops during inspection. Most will not go up on the roof during periods of rain, snow, ice, or wind. Some will walk only on one-story rooftops and only when conditions are right. If inspectors can’t or won’t walk on their roof, they have other ways of seeing what’s up there, such as ladders and binoculars, and flying drone cameras that can get up close and personal with all roof areas and components, without putting the inspector at risk of injury. Call your inspector to find out what methods he or she employs to check your roof during Asheville home inspections.

Can your home FAIL an inspection?

The short answer is NO. However, poor inspection reports may be reasons for axing the deal or renegotiating price. See our blog on this topic for more information.

Things that go bump in the attic

To many homeowners, an attic is just the empty space between the roof and ceiling. To others attics are places to store boxes and items hard to throw away, but hardly, if ever, used. However, your attic can reveal a lot about your home’s condition and reveal problems that may require immediate attention. That’s why inspectors take a close look at what’s in the attic, including your home’s ventilation, insulation, and condition of the structure itself.

In cases of suspiciously high energy bills, mold in the house, and poor air quality, the attic can be quite revealing. Clues about a home’s history reside in the attic. Black, sooty, or painted rafters could indicate there had been a fire in the home. Tunnels in beams and wood shavings on the attic floor may indicate wood-destroying insects.  

Inspectors need safe access to the attic, either an attic hatch or a folding ladder entry. Most inspectors will not enter attics if the only opening is above a staircase. The risk of serious injury or death from a fall is too great.  

Do you hear bumps or scratching sounds coming from your attic? Rats, mice, raccoons, possums, or other critters may have taken up residence there. During Asheville home inspections, your inspector may see the creatures themselves, or find signs of their presence.

What’s up there?

Here’s what inspectors look for in the attic:

• Ventilation: Poor ventilation can reveal as mold, rusted nails and condensation
• Insulation: Your attic should not feel drafty, and insulation should appear whole and complete
• Leaks: Mold, rot, and water stains are tell-tale signs of leaks.
• Pests: Your inspector may find droppings, nests, leaves, acorns and damaged insulation
• Exhaust ducts and vent stacks: These should not terminate in the attic, but should continue through the roof to the outside

What’s outside?

Inspectors give a good going-over to a home’s exterior. The first thing checked is wall covering, such as siding, trim (, and flashing. Generally, inspectors don’t remove any of this material to check beneath. The inspection is done with what’s visible from the outside.

The inspector makes note of the material (stucco, brick, shake shingles, wood, etc.), and looks for evidence of rot, cracking, paint bubbling, rust, bowing and curling.  

Next on the list are exterior doors and windows. The inspector will check the exterior doors and windows for observable damage, such as rot, cracks, and decay. Generally, these include only items visible and accessible at ground level, and do not include screens, shutters, or storm windows.

Walking the walk

In the next phase of Asheville home inspections, the inspector “walks the walk.” To be specific: the paths that lead to the home, such as driveways, walkways, and stairways. The inspector looks for structural integrity and stability, checking for cracked or rotted steps, stair spacing, and secure handrails. Overgrown vegetation, level terrain, and proper pitch (sloped away from the home) are noted. Poor surface drainage and standing water can be detrimental to a home’s structural integrity.  

Decks and balconies may be hiding weather damage or longtime wear and tear. Fresh stain or paint can make it difficult to detect problems. Inspectors carefully check the top and underside for structural issues, such as improper attachment, sagging, improper joist installation, rotted boards, and loose or improper handrails.  

Eaves, fascia, and soffits (those areas that protrude from under the roof) are checked, if visible. The inspector will note any rot, mold, or water damage.  

Next month we’ll continue with part two, and we’ll take a close look at basements/crawlspaces, heating and cooling, fireplaces/stoves, plumbing, electrical, and interior doors and windows.

Buying or selling a home?

Avoid unpleasant surprises! Contact Asheville Home Inspector Peter Young before signing any contracts. Call (828) 808-4980, or click the link below to make an appointment.

The post What’s in a home inspection? Part 1 appeared first on Peter Young Home Inspections.

Here’s something you probably didn’t know. Large numbers of Americans live in “old” houses. More than 38% of all homes in the US were built before 1970, according to Eye on Housing. In fact, only 19% of owner-occupied homes were built after 2000, and a mere 3% were built after 2010. Generally, homes built after 1990 are considered newer, while homes built prior to 1920 are designated old or antique. 

Many people think of older homes as having better materials and workmanship than newer (or new) construction. This is not always true. Even when it is, older homes may show issues of wear and tear, deteriorating conditions, and obsolete systems. With this in mind, let’s take a look at some common dangers that may lurk in older homes, especially if you are thinking of purchasing one.

Out, out damp spot!

Moisture has a way of finding its way through the walls, roof, or below the ground level of houses. While this can occur in houses of all ages, older homes that have lacked proper maintenance are especially susceptible to penetrating dampness. Some known culprits for dampness are missing or damaged roof tiles or shingles, deteriorating or poorly sealed flashing, leaking or damaged rain gutters, gaps in doors and windows, foundation cracks, and damaged or deteriorating siding. Also, brick and stone work can deteriorate with age, and become more porous and susceptible to frost or storm damage.  Water stains on ceilings or interior walls is a sure sign of penetrating dampness. If not repaired, water continues to enter, especially during heavy rainfall. Droplets of water on walls or ceilings is another bad sign. Damp areas are cooler than the surrounding wall, and condensation forms on the surface. Depending upon the cause of water intrusion, repairs can be costly, such as putting on a new roof, repairing the foundation, or replacing exterior siding. If the dampness is not resolved, it can lead to our next hidden danger. 

Breaking the mold 

Always check an older home for signs of previous water damage. If the underlying cause was fixed, but the areas were never properly dried, mold is likely to be present. In the presence of moisture, organic material, warmth, and oxygen, mold can sprout quickly and rapidly spread. How serious is mold? According to the  Centers for Disease Control (CDC) the Institute of Medicine (IOM) found “sufficient evidence to link indoor mold exposure with upper respiratory tract symptoms, cough, and wheeze in otherwise healthy people; with asthma symptoms in people with asthma; and with hypersensitivity pneumonitis in individuals susceptible to that immune-mediated condition.” Small patches of mold can be cured with a spray-on mold remover. Larger infestations will require the services of a professional to eliminate. Keep in mind that the mold you see may be just the tip of the iceberg. Ask your home inspector to check for more serious signs of mold.

Get the lead out! 

Older homes can be dazzling with ornate doors and intricate windows. However, these charming features may harbor a potential danger: lead paint. Homes prior to the 1970s likely contain lead in some of these original features. Until the mid-60s, lead paint was commonly used on windows, doors, and other woodwork. In some cases, lead paint may be buried under layers of subsequent paint jobs. If undisturbed it poses no problem, but if you intend to sand or strip and repaint wood features, it’s best to err on the side of caution and consult a professional. 

When lead paint begins to deteriorate, it can release dust which can cause serious health issues if inhaled, such as kidney, nerve and brain damage, and infertility. That’s why if lead paint is suspected, it must be removed by professionals. One way of recognizing lead paint is by its unique pattern of deterioration. While other paints peel as they age, lead paint cracks in very distinct rectangle patterns. If you’re unsure if paint in your home contains lead, call your home inspector for a professional evaluation. Home buyers must receive notice of possible lead paint, and contracts can be contingent on a successful lead inspection.      

Find EPA lead paint guidelines here.

Asbestos 

Homes built prior to 1970 are more likely to have asbestos. Asbestos can be found in insulating materials, roof shingles, ceiling and floor tiles, and around furnaces and boilers, where fire resistance is desired. 

Why is asbestos dangerous? If asbestos is sitting intact and dormant it doesn’t pose much risk. However, when disturbed, asbestos fibers are release into the air. When inhaled they can cause serious respiratory illnesses and even a serious, fatal form of cancer called Mesothelioma.   

If you are renovating your home and you suspect asbestos-containing materials, or you have disturbed asbestos during your work, then stop work immediately, and call the appropriate state agency for guidance.  

Click here for North Carolina asbestos abatement guidelines and resources.

A shocking situation 

Odds are that the electrical system in an older home is just as old as the home itself. Old electrical systems and wiring may include hidden dangers. Many homes built prior to the mid-70s have two-prong, ungrounded electrical outlets. In 1969 Underwriters Laboratories mandated three-prong plugs on major appliances for safety. Trouble is, only half of the receptacles in US homes were three-prong at that time. Wiring in most homes did not include a grounding wire. Ungrounded systems increase the risk of electrical shock in the event of circuit failures.   

Unfortunately, in a significant number of homes, three-prong outlets were installed without a grounding wire being added. Without the grounding wire, a three-prong receptacle is no safer than a two-prong. That’s why it’s important for your inspector to check all the home’s receptacles to know what is really there. 

Another potential problem in older homes is aluminum wiring. Copper wiring is safer and far less flammable. Aluminum wire is 50% more likely to cause a fire due to its high operating temperature. Faulty and aging wiring is one of the main causes of fires in homes.  See our May 2020 blog on home fire safety for more information. Damaged plugs, sockets and frayed cables can cause shocks, deadly electrocution, burns, and devastating home fires. These are some warning signs of a faulty electrical system:

• Dim or flickering lights
• Electrical interference (static) on your television
• Frequent circuit breaker tripping
• Sparks or sizzling sounds from sockets
• Acrid burning smells
• Warm or hot switches or sockets

If you notice any of these signs, call an electrician immediately.  If you’re not sure about the age of your electrical system, make an appointment with your home inspector. In fact, it’s a good idea to have your home’s electrical system inspected every ten years. Electricity must not be taken lightly. It can kill you or destroy your home.

It’s a gas gas gas! 

Electricity is not the only potential killer lurking in an older home. Carbon monoxide gas is known as the “silent killer,” because it is odorless, tasteless, and colorless, and it can smack you with a fatal dose without you even being aware of it. Caused by incomplete burning of carbon-based fuels, carbon monoxide may be an issue in older homes if the furnace or other oil or gas burning heaters have been neglected and allowed to deteriorate. Low-level exposure to carbon monoxide can cause flu-like symptoms that ease off when you’re away from the property. These can include:

• Headaches
• Dizziness
• Nausea and vomiting
• Tiredness and confusion
• Stomach pain
• Difficulty breathing / shortness of breath

Higher levels of exposure are more serious, and may cause these symptoms:

• Loss of physical coordination
• Increased heart rate
• Chest pains
• Changes in behavior/mental impairment
• Vertigo
• Seizures
• Loss of consciousness
• Death

The best way to keep yourself and your family safe is to install carbon monoxide detectors in your home. Install one in the room where a carbon burning device is being used, and install them in main living areas, such as outside bedrooms. If your carbon monoxide detector is ever triggered, get out of the house immediately and call your gas company from a safe distance.  

Don’t let these potential dangers scare you away. Older homes have their charm. As the saying goes, forewarned is forearmed. When your inspector knows what to look for, you can buy that older home with confidence.

Call Peter Young Home Inspections 

Buying or selling a home? Never sign any contract without first getting a home inspection!  Call Asheville Home Inspector Peter Young, 828-808-4980, or click here to make an appointment today.

The post Hidden dangers may lurk in older homes appeared first on Peter Young Home Inspections.

Once upon a time, Asheville basements were little more than overgrown utility areas for storing unsightly items, housing the furnace, electrical panels, and maybe even a washer and dryer. In these times, with above ground living space getting so expensive, basements have seen a transformation into living spaces, such as rec rooms with pool tables, home theater systems, or even full bedrooms and bathrooms. This may be a convenient and inexpensive way to claim more living space in your home, but if some common basement problems are not overcome first, occupants of these spaces may be putting their health at risk. Even if you don’t use your basement as a living space, some of the problems down there can affect the rest of the house. This is why a basement inspection by a licensed home inspector is essential. There are three types of basements: 

• Unfinished
• Partially finished
• Finished 

With some variations, the same or similar problems can exist in all three.

Unfinished basements

An unfinished basement is an old-school, bare bones concrete room with no drywall, flooring, or furniture. It might be a laundry room, Dad’s workshop, or a creepy, musty storage room. Even though an unfinished basement does not count as square footage in a real estate transaction, home inspectors are required to inspect them and report any uncovered defects. Since unfinished Asheville basements have bare concrete walls, it is relatively easy for an inspector to spot a variety of issues. Here are some common problems. 

Mold & Mildew 

A stale and musty odor is a sign of water intrusion in a basement. The odor is from mold, and it means the basement is not dry. Eliminating the odor means cleaning and drying the walls, woodwork, and whatever you have stored down there. But you can’t stop there; you must find and eradicate the source of the moisture. If your land slopes toward your house, moisture intrusion will always be a problem in your basement. If you get standing water down there, you will need to install a sump pump. If it just always feels and smells moist, perhaps a dehumidifier will do. 

White residual deposits

Also called efflorescence, white residual deposits are found in basements that have water issues. The white residue is not a health risk of itself, but it can be an indicator of cracks in the foundation or walls in an unfinished basement. Cracks in the walls and floor may be superficial, but they also could be a problematic source of water intrusion. Your home inspector can determine whether the cracks are cosmetic or structural. 

Structural Defects 

Problems with walls, ceilings, and beams are easy to spot in an unfinished basement. Shoddy or incomplete joists can cause problems in the floors above. Past or present water issues can cause significant rot in wood joists, which in turn can create structural problems. 

Pest Infestations 

Roaches, ants, termites, and rodents may find a damp basement attractive. If the problem is moisture-related, it will not go away without drying up and eliminating the source of moisture. If you see signs of pests in your Asheville basement, your home inspector can arrange for a pest inspection.   

Dangerous fumes 

Basements can be contaminated with hazardous fumes. These are caused by several factors: 

• Stored solvents – since basements are used as storage spaces for household chemicals, such as paint, cleaning supplies, and solvents, be sure none of these are leaking. Prolonged exposure to chemical fumes can be dangerous to your health.
• Carbon monoxide – many homes have their furnaces in the basement. This should be inspected regularly for safe operation. When not maintained, furnaces can leak deadly carbon monoxide. Keep a carbon monoxide detector in your basement and one at the top of the stairs where you can hear it if it goes off. If the alarm sounds, get out of the house quickly and call your gas company from a safe distance.
• Radon gas – produced by the radioactive decay of uranium, radon can be found in the soil, rocks, and even in the air. Outdoors it poses no danger, but in the confines of a basement it can build up to dangerous levels. Radon levels are very hit or miss in Western North Carolina, and radon is the second leading cause of lung cancer. Your home inspector can arrange for a radon inspection. If an inspection reveals high radon levels, have your home treated by a radon remediation expert.

Partially finished basements 

A partially finished basement is just what it sounds like. Part of it is bare, but another part may have some sort of living space, such as a game room, entertainment room, workshop, or even a home office space. It may have a bathroom, but not bedrooms. There might be some drywall, but the floor could be concrete with a drain in the middle.  One thing to consider seriously: If you are spending a lot of time in an unfinished basement, you need to be sure it is a safe environment. The problems mentioned above (mold, fumes, radon, etc.) need to be addressed before spending much time down there.

Finished Basements 

A finished Asheville basement can be anything from a large, open area with flooring, a ceiling and drywall, to a complete living area with bedrooms, a bathroom, and even a kitchen. For a finished basement to count as square footage in a North Carolina real estate listing (MLS), it must be considered “heated space.” However, even if it doesn’t count as heated square footage, a well-constructed finished basement can still add considerable value to a home. 

Finished basements are not as easy to inspect as bare basements. Drywall and flooring can cover up structural defects and signs of previous water damage. If intended as living quarters, it is essential to check for mold issues, air quality, and test for radon. When a home has a finished basement, a radon inspector will set the test there. However, for homes with unfinished basements, the inspector will set up the test above grade on the first floor. Whatever type of basement a home contains, it is always best to have it checked out thoroughly by a licensed home inspector to rule out serious issues.  

Call Peter Young Home Inspections 

Buying or selling a home? Never sign any contract without first getting a home inspection!  Call Asheville Home Inspector Peter Young, 828-808-4980, or click here to make an appointment today.

The post What you should know about Asheville basements appeared first on Peter Young Home Inspections.