Congratulations, Home Buyer! You’ve survived the house hunting phase. You’ve poked around closets, pretended to understand how HVAC systems work, and finally found The One. You’ve even made it through the home inspection—a three-hour marathon where a professional like Peter Young poked, prodded, and peered into the dark corners of your future home’s soul.

But then (ominous music), the PDF arrives in your inbox.

Suddenly, that charming 1940s Victorian looks less like a “vintage gem” and more like a collection of hazards held together by hope and multiple layers of lead-based paint. Your heart sinks. You start wondering if you should just move into a tent in the woods.

Take a deep breath. This is where the “Post-Inspection Huddle” begins.

The window between receiving your inspection report and your due diligence deadline is the most critical phase of the home-buying process. It’s the time to stop being a dreamer and start being a strategist. 

Here is how to huddle up with your Realtor and turn that scary report into a winning negotiation.

The Cooling Off Period

Before you call your Realtor in a panic to declare the house a “total teardown” because of a loose doorknob and a leaky shower head, take a night to sleep on it.

Home inspection reports are designed to be exhaustive. If we didn’t tell you about the cracked switch plate or the drippy faucet, we wouldn’t be doing our jobs.

But an extensive report doesn’t mean the house is falling down; it means your inspector was paying attention.

Big Rocks Vs Pebbles

When you sit down (virtually or physically) with your Realtor, your first task is to sort the findings into three buckets.

Think of this as Home Inspection Neapolitan Ice Cream, but instead of strawberry, vanilla, and chocolate, it’s Safety, Structure, and Stuff You Can Buy at Home Depot for $20.

Bucket A: The Deal-Breakers (the Big Rocks). These are the structural, mechanical, or safety issues that make the home uninhabitable or financially draining. We’re talking about “the roof is actually a giant piece of Swiss cheese” or “the electrical panel is a three-alarm fire waiting to ignite,” or “the house is ready to slide into the creek.”

Bucket B: The Negotiables. These are mid-range issues. The water heater is 18 years old (on its retirement tour), or the deck needs some serious joist work.

Bucket C: The Homeowner “To-Do” List (The Pebbles). This is the stuff that makes the report look long but doesn’t actually matter in a negotiation. A loose toilet seat? A cracked tile on the kitchen floor? Asking a seller to fix these is a great way to make them (and your Realtor) roll their eyes.

Please note: If you ask the seller to replace a $4 burnt-out light bulb in a $500,000 transaction, don’t be surprised if they respond by suggesting a very specific place you can go to find some “enlightenment.”

Let Your Realtor Be the Good Cop

Your Realtor is your MVP in the huddle. They know the local market, the seller’s motivation, and, most importantly, they have the emotional distance you currently lack.

While you might be crying over some minor moisture in the crawlspace, your Realtor is looking at the report and thinking, “Okay, we can ask for a $2,500 credit for a vapor barrier and still stay on schedule.”

The Playbook

• Share the full report with your Realtor: Don’t just send snippets. Give them the whole thing.
• Be honest about your “Hard No”: If you absolutely cannot handle a mold remediation project, tell them.
• Listen to their market advice: In a hot seller’s market, asking for every minor repair might result in the seller telling you to kick rocks. In a buyer’s market, you have more leverage. Trust your Realtor to know which way the wind is blowing.

Credit vs Repairs: The Great Debate

One of the biggest decisions in your huddle will be whether to ask the seller to fix the items or give you money (closing cost credits) to fix them yourself.

Why you might want the Seller to fix it: You’re tapped out on cash and want the house move-in ready.

The Risk: Sellers have a funny way of choosing the cheapest possible contractor (or their tipsy Uncle Billy) to get the job done. “Fixed” is a subjective term when someone is moving out.

Why you might want a Credit: You get to choose the contractor, oversee the quality of the work, and ensure it’s done to your standards.

The Risk: You have to deal with the headache of repairs while you’re trying to unpack your collection of decorative garden gnomes.

Pro Tip: For major items (like that Swiss cheese roof), your Realtor will often suggest getting a quote from a licensed specialist during the huddle. Peter Young Home Inspections identifies the problem; then a roofing specialist can give you the price tag to fix it.

The Release Your Ego Rule

Negotiation is about compromise. If the inspection reveals $10,000 worth of necessary repairs, and the seller agrees to cover $8,000, you have to decide: is this house worth $2,000?

Usually, the answer is yes. Don’t let a “win” in negotiations cost you the home you love. Your Realtor will help you find the “sweet spot” where the seller feels they aren’t being robbed, and you feel you aren’t being cheated.

The Final Huddle Checklist

Before you send that repair request to the seller, ask yourself these three questions:

1. Is it a safety issue? (If yes, ask for it.)
2. Is it a structural or mechanical failure? (If yes, negotiate it.)
3. Will I still care about this three months after I move in? (If no, let it go.)

A home inspection report isn’t a weapon to beat the seller over the head with; it’s a tool to ensure you’re making a smart investment. When you and your Realtor work together, using your inspection report as a negotiating blueprint, you aren’t just buying a house. You’re buying peace of mind.

And if you ever get overwhelmed, just remember: at least the inspector didn’t find a ghost in the attic. (We don’t charge extra for paranormal detection… yet.)

Ready to get your own negotiating blueprint for your future home? Call Peter Young Home Inspections today to schedule your thorough, honest, and slightly-less-scary-than-you-think inspection.

Buying or Selling a Home in WNC?

Avoid unpleasant surprises! Contact Asheville Home Inspector Peter Young before signing any contracts. Call (828) 808-4980, or click here to make an appointment.

The post The “Post-Inspection Huddle”: Crafting Your Negotiation Strategy Without Losing Your Mind (or the House) appeared first on Peter Young Home Inspections.

Freezing temperatures, howling winds, and ice dams the size of Samurai swords…

Spring is finally here! The birds are singing, daffodils are pushing through the soil, and your house is groaning like it just woke up from a three-month bender.

Truth is, winter is incredibly tough on your home. Between freezing temperatures, howling winds, and ice dams the size of Samurai swords, your beloved abode has been working overtime just to keep you from turning into a human popsicle. 

Now that spring has sprung, your house has a massive “winter hangover.” It’s creaky, it’s leaky, and there’s a distinct possibility it’s hiding some regrettable decisions in the basement.

Here at Peter Young Home Inspections, we know what winter can do! Think of us as the metaphorical aspirin and strong cup of black coffee your home desperately needs right now. To help you nurse your property back to health, we’ve put together this nifty spring recovery guide.

Roofs and Gutters: Curing the Hangover

Your roof took the brunt of winter’s wrath. It wore a heavy bonnet of snow and ice without complaining, but now it’s feeling the aftereffects.

• The Shingle Check: Grab a pair of binoculars (so you don’t actually have to climb a ladder right now) and scan your roof from the yard.
• Look for missing, cracked, or curling shingles. Winter winds love to rip these off, leaving your roof exposed to spring showers.
  • The Remedy: If you spot damage, call a local roofing professional to patch in new shingles. Unless you have excellent balance or a death wish, leave steep roof repairs to the pros.
• The Gutter Cleanse: Your gutters are currently stuffed with wet leaves, twigs, and whatever treasures the neighborhood squirrels decided to hoard. Have you heard about the lady who found Elvis in her gutters?
  • The Remedy: Grab a sturdy ladder, a pair of thick gloves, and a bucket. Scoop out the muck, then flush the gutters with a garden hose to make sure the downspouts are clear. Reattach any gutters that are pulling away from the fascia board.

• The Gutter Cleanse: Your gutters are currently stuffed with wet leaves, twigs, and whatever treasures the neighborhood squirrels decided to hoard. Have you heard about the lady who found Elvis in her gutters?
  • The Remedy: Grab a sturdy ladder, a pair of thick gloves, and a bucket. Scoop out the muck, then flush the gutters with a garden hose to make sure the downspouts are clear. Reattach any gutters that are pulling away from the fascia board.

Foundation & Exterior: Treating Dry, Cracked Skin

When the ground freezes and thaws, it expands and contracts. This phenomenon, known as frost heave, can do a number on your foundation and exterior.

• Hunt for Cracks: Take a slow walk around the perimeter of your house. Look for new cracks in the foundation, brickwork, or stucco.
  • The Remedy: Small, hairline cracks can easily be sealed with a polyurethane masonry caulk to keep moisture and bugs out. However, if the crack is wider than a penny or looks like a jagged staircase, skip the DIY and call a structural engineer.
• Check the Grading: The dirt around your house should slope away from your foundation. Winter has a sneaky way of eroding this soil.
  • The Remedy: Grab a shovel and pack some dense topsoil (not mulch, which retains water) around the foundation. Tamp it down so it creates a gentle downward slope away from your house, redirecting rainwater into the yard and out of your basement.

Attic & Basement: Evicting Uninvited Guests

When the temperature dropped last winter, every critter in the neighborhood started looking for a warm place to crash. 

Unfortunately, your attic and basement were the hottest clubs in town.

Check the Grading: The dirt around your house should slope away from your foundation. Winter has a sneaky way of eroding this soil.

• The Basement Sweep:  Go downstairs with a good flashlight. You are looking for moisture, efflorescence (that powdery white stuff on concrete), or a musty smell that screams “mold.”
  • The Remedy: If the air feels damp, invest in a good dehumidifier and let it run continuously. If you find active puddles, trace the source and seal the interior concrete walls with waterproofing paint.
• The Attic Inspection: Pop your head into the attic. Look for shredded insulation, droppings, or daylight peeking through the roof boards.
  • The Remedy: If you find evidence of a rodent rave, you need to evict them. Seal off entry points from the outside using steel wool and caulk (mice can’t chew through steel wool). Set traps inside, or better yet, call a pest control service to play bouncer and clear the room.

Windows & Doors: Fixing Creaky, Leaky Joints

Grab a caulking gun and run a fresh bead of exterior-grade silicone caulk around the window frames.

Winter is notorious for ruining weatherstripping. Expanding ice and shrinking wood can leave your windows and doors feeling woozy and off-balance.

• The Breeze Test: On a windy spring day, run your hand around the edges of your closed windows and doors. If you feel a breeze, your weatherstripping has given up the ghost.
• The Remedy: Peel off the old, cracked weatherstripping and wipe the door jamb or window frame clean. Apply new self-adhesive foam or rubber stripping. For the exterior, grab a caulking gun and run a fresh bead of exterior-grade silicone caulk around the window frames to seal out the spring rain.

Need a Professional Diagnosis?

Nursing a house through a winter hangover takes time, effort, and a keen eye. While this DIY checklist is a great place to start, sometimes you need a professional to give it the real hairy eyeball!

If you notice something concerning, or if you just want the peace of mind that comes from knowing your home is in top shape for the year ahead, we’re here to help. We’ll comb through your home from the chimney to the basement floor, giving you a comprehensive breakdown of what’s working, what’s not, and what needs a little TLC.

Don’t let your house suffer through spring. Give us a call today , and let’s get your home ready to enjoy the sunshine!

Buying or selling a home in WNC?

Avoid unpleasant surprises! Contact Asheville Home Inspector Peter Young before signing any contracts. Call (828) 808-4980, or click here to make an appointment.

The post Winter Home Hangover: A Guide to Spring Detox appeared first on Peter Young Home Inspections.

Let’s be honest: walking into an open house is a form of psychological warfare. You are greeted by a tray of cookies, a $400 Nest candle that smells like Financial Stability, and a soundtrack of lo-fi beats designed to lower your cortisol levels. The staging is impeccable. There’s a throw blanket artfully draped over a sofa that costs more than my first truck, and every Live, Laugh, Love sign is strategically placed to hide a hole in the drywall.

Sellers are profiling their houses like dating apps. They’re showing you the best angles, the most flattering light, and hiding the fact that the HVAC system sounds like a jet engine clogged with seagull feathers.

As your home inspector, it’s my job to be the professional “buzzkill.” I am the guy who walks into your potential dream home and immediately starts looking for the nightmare lurking below the surface. I don’t care about the quartz countertops or the subway tile backsplash. I care about the stuff that keeps the roof over your head and the water out of your toaster. 

Buying a house is like a high-stakes first date: everyone is on their best behavior until you look in the crawlspace and realize the house has some serious “ex” issues.

If you’re out house hunting and you spot any of these six red flags, don’t let be dazzled by the staging. Don’t panic, but do have my number on speed dial! We’re going to need to do some detective work.

#1 The Spicy Electrical Panel

When I open an electrical panel, I should see a neat, organized rows of breakers. What I often find instead is what I like to call The Bowl of Angry Spaghetti.

DIY Electrical is the leading cause of me having an anxiety attack on the job. Homeowners love to think they’re electricians because they watched a twenty-minute YouTube video. They start adding outlets, wiring up “smart” light switches, and running extension cords through the attic like it’s a jungle gym.

• The Red Flags: I’m looking for “double-tapping” in the breaker box (where some genius jammed two wires into a slot meant for one) or charred, melted plastic on the breakers. That’s not “character”—that’s an active fire hazard.
• The “Panel of Doom”: If I see the words Federal Pacific or Zinsco on the front of that box, we have an immediate problem. These panels are the vintage “fire-starters” of the industry. They are famous for failing to trip when they overheat, which is basically the electrical equivalent of a car that doesn’t have brakes. 

Replacing an electrical panel isn’t the end of the world, but it’s a $2,500+ conversation you need to have before you close.

#2 The Fresh Paint Smell (Everywhere)

If you walk into a basement or a spare bedroom and it smells like a Sherwin-Williams factory just exploded, your Spidey Sense should be tingling. This is what we in the industry like to call “The Landlord Special.” Fresh paint is a classic “homeowner’s highlighter.” It’s often used to draw a nice, crisp, white line right over mold, mildew, or a water stain the size of a Rottweiler. Now, don’t get me wrong—sellers should paint before they list. It’s part of the game. But when I see fresh paint in a basement that has no windows and questionable drainage, I start reaching for my moisture meter.

• The Reality Check: I’ve seen cases where a seller painted over black mold just forty-eight hours before the inspection. It looks great for the photos, but the moisture is still there, trapped behind the “Swiss Coffee” semi-gloss, just waiting to rot the studs.
• Pro Tip: Look at the ceiling corners and the baseboards. If there’s a suspiciously circular patch of “extra white” paint, or if the texture of the drywall feels slightly “mushy” or bubbly, someone is trying to hide a leak from the upstairs bathroom or a failing roof.

#3 The Lasagna Roof Recipe

Did you know you can keep layering shingles on a roof like you’re dressing for a particularly brutal North Dakota winter? You can, but you absolutely shouldn’t.

If you look at the edge of a roof and it looks abnormally thick (like a piece of lasagna, that’s a major red flag. 

Most municipalities allow for two layers of shingles, but I’ve seen three or even four.

• The Physics Problem: Shingles are heavy. A single layer of shingles on a standard house can weigh several thousand pounds. When you double or triple that, you are putting massive, unintended stress on the rafters and the structure of the home.
• The Insurance Nightmare: Here’s the kicker: most insurance companies in 2026 are getting extremely picky. If they see a roof that’s over fifteen years old or has multiple layers, they might refuse to insure the home entirely.
• The Hidden Cost: You can’t just put a new layer over a mess. To fix it properly, you have to pay for a “tear-off,” which means paying a crew to rip off all those layers and haul them to the dump before they even start the new roof. It essentially doubles your labor costs.

#4 Stair-Step Cracks in the Brick

A little settling is normal. Houses are heavy, the earth moves, and over thirty years, things are going to shift. Houses get old, their joints creak, and they get a bit cranky, much like I do when I have to inspect a hot attic in July.

However, there is a very big difference between a “hairline settlement crack” and a “structural SOS.” If you see a crack in the exterior brick or the interior foundation wall that looks like a literal staircase, the house isn’t just settling; it’s trying to return to the earth.

• The Science of the Squeeze: Vertical cracks are often just the house breathing. But stair-step cracks (following the mortar lines) or horizontal cracks are signs of “lateral pressure.” This means the soil outside is pushing against the foundation, or the corner of the house is sinking into a soft spot.
• The “Rule of Thumb”: If the crack is wider than 1/4 inch, or if I can see the neighbor’s backyard through the wall, your bank account is about to have a very bad day. Foundation repair often involves “piers” or “underpinning,” which are fancy industry code words for we have to dig a giant hole and charge you ten thousand dollars.

#5 The Indoor Swimming Pool In the Crawlspace

I’ve spent a significant portion of my life in crawlspaces, and I can tell you that they are the “underbelly” of the housing world.

If I open that hatch and I’m greeted by the smell of old gym socks or worse, a family of frogs splashing, we’re in trouble.

Standing water under a house is a VIP invitation for every nightmare known to man: mold, wood rot, termites, and a guest list of pests (raccoons, opossums, and the aforementioned frog clan) that you definitely didn’t invite to the housewarming party.

• The Evidence: Even if the crawlspace is dry today, I look for efflorescence. That’s the white, chalky powder left behind on concrete walls. It’s the “ghost of water past,” and it tells me exactly how high the water gets when it rains.
• The Rot Factor: Wood is a sponge. If it sits in a high-humidity environment for years, it loses its structural integrity. If I can poke a screwdriver into your floor joist and it goes in like a hot knife through butter, we aren’t talking about a “fixer-upper” anymore—we’re talking about a major structural failure.

#6 Doors That Won’t Close Or Won’t Stay Open

This is the Ghosting Test. If you walk into a bedroom and the door slowly swings open or shut on its own, it likely isn’t a Victorian ghost. It’s probably a foundation problem.

When a house shifts, the frames of the doors and windows are the first things to go out of square. If you have to use your full body weight to get the front door to latch, or if the bedroom door rubs against the carpet, the house is telling you that it’s tilting.

• The Window Test: Try to open a few windows during your walk-through. If they are painted shut, that’s one thing. But if they are physically stuck or require a crowbar to budge, the frames might be compressed from the weight of the house shifting.
• The Marble Test: Set a marble down on a hardwood floor. If it wins a land-speed record rolling toward the kitchen, we need to have a very serious conversation about the “load-bearing” capabilities of your floor joists.

Honorable Mentions (Quick-Fire Red Flags)

• The “Tree Hugger”: A massive oak tree with branches resting on the roof. It looks poetic until those branches act as a highway for squirrels and a saw for your shingles.
• The “Mystery Switch”: A light switch that does absolutely nothing. Usually, this means there’s a junction box buried in a wall somewhere that is just waiting to short out.
• The “Ventless” Bathroom: A bathroom with no window and no exhaust fan is really just a mold cultivation chamber.

The Bottom Line

A red flag doesn’t always mean you should run screaming into the night! Every house has issues. Even new construction. A red flag is simply a price adjustment opportunity.

My job isn’t to tell you whether or not to buy the house; my job is to make sure you know exactly what you’re stepping into. I want you to buy that Vintage Charm house, but I want you to do it knowing that the charm might come with a $5,000 plumbing bill in a year or two.

Don’t let the staging fool you. Before you sign on the dotted line, let’s get dirty and see what’s actually happening behind the façade. By that, I mean let me do it. I’m already wearing my work clothes!

Buying or selling a home in WNC?

Avoid unpleasant surprises! Contact Asheville Home Inspector Peter Young before signing any contracts. Call (828) 808-4980, or click here to make an appointment.

The post Take Off the Rose-Colored Glasses: 6 Inspection Red Flags You Should Not Ignore appeared first on Peter Young Home Inspections.

So, you’ve put an offer on a home, it’s been accepted, and you’re practically measuring for curtains. Then comes the home inspection – the moment that taps you on the shoulder and whispers, “Hey, buddy, your dream house has secrets!”

Don’t get the wrong idea. Home inspectors are Superheroes 🦸🏻 in sensible shoes, armed with flashlights and moisture meters. But sometimes, their findings can make your heart do a little tap dance. 

Here are six common culprits inspectors might unearth, along with a dose of what-to-do, and a sprinkle of “try not to picture the worst-case scenario.”

1) The Roof’s Having a Bad Hair Day (Missing or Damaged Shingles)

The “Uh Oh” Factor: Finding bald spots or cracked shingles can feel like your future home is sporting a bad comb-over. What’s hiding beneath? It may foreshadow potential leaks, and nobody wants a surprise indoor waterfall.

What to Do: Don’t immediately envision Noah’s Ark pulling up to your curb. Did your home inspector see any signs of water damage inside the house? A few missing shingles might be a simple fix. Get a roofer to assess the damage and provide a quote. You can then negotiate with the seller for repairs or a price reduction. Think of it as asking for a discount on a slightly balding, but still structurally sound, head. But if the whole roof is shot, full replacement will be costly!

2) The Foundation’s Not All It’s Cracked Up to Be

The “Uh Oh” Factor: Seeing cracks in the foundation can send shivers down your spine. Does your future abode have a “split personality?” Are you about to live in a mini geological fault line?

What to Do: Take a few deep breaths! Hairline cracks are usually just a sign of normal settling. However, wider or horizontal cracks need attention. A structural engineer can evaluate the severity. Again, this is negotiation territory. Maybe the seller can contribute to the repair, or you factor it into your offer. Run if the floor is slanted or uneven. You don’t need your furniture sliding downhill every night.

3) The Electrical System is Stuck in the Disco Era (Outdated Wiring)

The “Uh Oh” Factor: Discovering knob-and-tube wiring or improperly installed wiring isn’t ideal for powering your collection of smart appliances. It can be a fire hazard, and it could make your insurance company give you the stink eye!

What to Do: Modernizing the electrical system is a significant but necessary upgrade. Get quotes from licensed electricians. This is a serious safety concern, so don’t skimp. You’ll likely need to negotiate with the seller, as this isn’t a “slap some tape on it” situation. It’s essential for modern living. And while “Burning Down the House,” may be one of your favorite retro songs, you never want that to happen IRL!

4) The Plumbing Doubles As a Sprinkler System

The “Uh Oh” Factor: Finding drips, damp spots, or evidence of past leaks can make you wonder if your water bill will rival the national debt. Hidden leaks can also lead to mold – the unwelcome house guest that refuses to leave.

What to Do: Small leaks might be easy fixes, but persistent or hidden ones need professional attention. A plumber can diagnose and repair the issue. Negotiate with the seller for these repairs, especially if there’s evidence of water damage. Nobody wants to purchase a home that’s slowly turning into an indoor swamp.

5) Surprise Roommates (Pest Infestations)

The “Uh Oh” Factor:Discovering evidence of termites, rodents, or other unwanted critters can make you feel like you’re starring in your own personal horror movie. 

Nobody wants to share their living space with things that chew on wood or leave little “presents.” 💩

What to Do: A professional pest control company is your new best friend! Get an inspection and treatment plan. This is not something to negotiate lightly.

Wood destroying organisms can affect the home’s structural integrity, and mortgage lenders may insist on proof that the problem was resolved. And try not to have nightmares about tiny landlords demanding rent in the walls.

6) The HVAC System Is Younger Than the Mountains, but Older Than the Trees

The “Uh Oh” Factor: That ancient furnace or AC unit might still be chugging along, but it’s likely costing a fortune in energy bills and could break down any minute. It’s the great grandpa of appliances, and while you respect its longevity, you’re pretty sure it won’t handle another summer.

What to Do: Get the system inspected by an HVAC professional. They can assess its lifespan and efficiency. You can negotiate for a price reduction to account for the eventual (and likely sooner rather than later) replacement. Think of it as getting a heads-up that you will need to budget for a new set of “lungs” for your house.

The Bottom Line and a Gentle Nudge to Not Panic

Finding issues during a home inspection is common. It’s what the process is for! It gives you valuable information and the opportunity to negotiate. Don’t let every “uh oh” moment send you into a tailspin. Gather information, get professional opinions, and work with your real estate agent to find a solution that works for you. 

Remember, even the most charming houses have their quirks – it’s just about figuring out if those quirks are manageable or deal-breakers. Good luck, and may your future home be everything you dream!

Buying or selling a home in Western North Carolina?

Avoid unpleasant surprises! Contact Asheville Home Inspector Peter Young before signing any contracts. Call (828) 808-4980, or click here to make an appointment.

The post Six Shades of “Uh Oh”: Common Home Inspection Issues (Don’t Panic!) appeared first on Peter Young Home Inspections.

Start with your outdoor tasks, before it gets really chilly, then work your way indoors. Complete these chores now, and you’ll have more time to be warm and cozy this winter.

What will help you get ready? Let’s take a look.

Winterize your outdoor power equipment

Soon the grass will go dormant and mowing season will end. Once mowing is done for the year, this is a great time to schedule your mower for service. During the spring and summer months, small engine repair shops are swamped with customers. Fall and winter not so much.

Take your mower to the shop or have it picked up for service. While it’s in the shop get them to sharpen the blades, change the oil, and if a few seasons have passed, change the spark plugs.

When your mower is returned, winterize the fuel by adding Sta-Bil fuel stabilizer according to directions. This helps keep fuel viable during the cold, dormant months, and it helps protect your carburetor.

Finally, remove the battery and store it indoors during the cold winter months. Before you put it back in (if possible) give it a trickle charge to bring it up to speed before starting it again in the spring.

NOTE: You can use Sta-Bil products in two-stroke weed eaters, as well. Be sure to follow directions carefully.

Your mind is in the gutter!

“The falling leaves drift by the window
The autumn leaves of red and gold…” 
– Autumn Leaves, sung by Nat King Cole, composed by Joseph Kosma, John Mercer and Jacques Prevert

Those autumn leaves are so beautiful. They are the best part of the fall season. But everything beautiful has a flip side, and those leaves can clog up your gutters and downspouts, leaving your home susceptible to rotting soffits and roof leaks.

Keep a watchful eye. If you have a lot of trees around your property, you may have to clean the gutters and downspouts more than once before winter. You’ll need a good sense of balance and a strong, steady ladder. Let common sense prevail; if you’re not confident on ladders, hire someone to do the job.

Water features and hose bibs

If you have an unheated pool, fountain, waterfall, or other water feature, get it tucked in for winter before the fall slips away.

For pools, you’ll need to drain them down a bit, toss them a pillow (!), and cover with a tarp. Actually, it’s a bit more involved than this. Click here for instructions on winterizing your pool.

For small fountains, it’s probably best to drain them and shut off the water. If the lines are underground, they are not likely to freeze, but leaving water in the basin can cause cracking and damage during freezes. Dry them out and cover with a tarp for the winter.

Ponds and waterfalls can be tricky in the winter. If your pond is deep enough, the fish will dive to the bottom in the colder months. If a waterfall feeds the pond, some users shut it down for the winter to keep cold water from recirculating to the bottom. But don’t shut down your filtration system. For best advice, contact your system’s installer.

Don’t forget your hose bibs. Leaving them exposed to frigid temps can cause the pipe to burst in the wall, resulting in costly repairs. There’s a quick fix. Polar Cap makes a hard plastic, Styrofoam-lined cover that fits over and secures to your hose bib. It’s available at most big box home stores for less than six dollars.

Conduct an outdoor home inspection

Way before the cold sets in, take a leisurely stroll around your house to take stock of what needs winterizing. If you’re not very handy, or if you’re a newbie to home maintenance, this would be a good time to hire a professional home inspector. 

Here’s what you need to do:

• Check windows and doors for broken seals and damaged caulk. Make repairs to stay warm and save energy when the cold arrives. NOTE: While you’re dealing with your windows, get them clean before those cold winter days. Clean them outside and inside for a storybook view of those winter wonderland days. On the inside, clean and dust your blinds, and wipe down your window sills.
• Inspect your foundation for cracks, and call a pro to make repairs if you find them.
• Check out the roof for loose or cracked shingles, and do the fixes long before your roof gets covered with snow.
• Be sure to seal up any opening where mice and insects could invade your home seeking warmth. Mice can get in through holes no bigger than a dime!
• Call your HVAC company for a maintenance check on your heating system. You don’t need unpleasant surprises on really cold nights.
• And speaking of HVAC, change or wash your filters before the cold weather puts a high demand on your system.

Call Bert (the chimney sweep)!

Your chimney or stove pipe needs cleaning and inspection yearly. FEMA reports about 25,000 chimney fires each year in the United States. 

Most of these are due to buildup of creosote in the chimney or flue, all preventable by regular cleaning.

And don’t overlook your gas log heating. It needs to be cleaned and inspected annually, as well.

Here are some fast facts from the EPA about fireplace and stove safety.

Where there’s smoke

Each fall and spring are perfect times to replace smoke detector and carbon monoxide detector batteries. Don’t put it off! Your life may depend upon it.

About face!

Turn off your ceiling fans, clean the blades, and then reverse the direction with the little switch. For the winter, you want the blades rotating clockwise to pull air in an upward direction to move the heated air all around the room.

It’s so much easier to prepare for winter when you start in the fall! Follow these tips, and enjoy the beauty of the coming seasons.

Buying or selling a home in Western North Carolina?

Avoid unpleasant surprises! Contact Asheville Home Inspector Peter Young before signing any contracts. Call (828) 808-4980, or click here to make an appointment.

The post Fall projects prepare your home for winter appeared first on Peter Young Home Inspections.

People often ask if a home inspection can kill a real estate deal? The simple answer would be no. An inspection of itself is not the reason deals are called off. However, there are times when the inspector finds serious issues with a house, which can cause negotiations between buyer and seller to break down, and the deal may fall apart.

First, let’s define the role of a home inspector. An inspector is a professional hired by buyers or sellers to carefully inspect a house and inform you of things that may be broken and in need of repair or replacing. When he or she does find issues in a home, the report may recommend seeking out an “expert,” such as a licensed electrician, roofer, plumber, or HVAC specialist for further evaluation or remediation. That’s because most of the time, inspectors are not licensed in these fields.

In most cases, the buyer hires the inspector and pays him to do his job and present his report. There are times when an inspection may uncover serious issues that may cause buyers to walk away from the deal. However, the inspector presents the findings in a neutral fashion, without getting involved in negotiations between the seller and the buyer.

As a home buyer, do you need an inspection? That’s a resounding YES! North Carolina is a “buyer beware” state. As a buyer, it is your responsibility to learn everything you can about a property before signing on the dotted line. When trouble is found, you can request repairs or a discount for the cost of the repairs, but if the seller won’t budge, you have the option of walking away from the deal.

The greater Asheville area is still a hot seller’s market, so negotiation may be off the table for small issues, but major defects are a different matter entirely. Let’s take a peek at some of the discoveries that sometimes derail the sale of a home.

Water damage and mold

Mold forms from damp or even wet conditions. Moisture in the house can come from a leak in the roof or chimney, cracked foundation walls, flooding, failing siding, and more.

Mold in the attic or basement left unchecked can cause problems in the home’s interior.

If you find mold and moisture on the insulation in your attic, make an appointment with a licensed roofing company to find and eliminate the problem at its source. Then you’ll need to consult a mold remediation company to clean it up.

Water and mold in homes may cause some buyers to walk away from the deal.

Major foundation issues

A home’s foundation is the core upon which the structure rests. Major problems with the foundation will likely reveal other issues in the home, such as:

• Uneven floors
• Sticking or tilted doors and windows
• Dampness or water in the basement

Minor cracks in the foundation are normal, since all houses settle over time. However, large cracks can be a cause of concern and require a foundation expert to estimate the potential cost of repair.

Major foundation repairs can range in the tens of thousands of dollars. Discuss solutions with the seller, such as getting them to repair the problem. This may have to be fixed before the deal can go through, because lenders may reject a property with serious foundation issues. If the seller refuses, then the buyer might choose to end the deal.

Roof repair or replacement

A roof is more than just a barrier from the elements. It helps maintain the home’s structural integrity. Instructors will look for loose or missing shingles, soft spots, and signs of water damage. Even relatively new roofs can lose shingles in storms. These are easily replaceable, but rotted wood underneath the shingles can be an expensive fix and may signal the need for complete roof replacement.

Can complete roof replacement be a deal-breaker? That depends. If the roof is shot and needs immediate replacement, some folks will amend their offer, or they might request the seller make the repairs, or they might just walk away from the deal.

Finding asbestos in the home

Older homes may have asbestos, which, when disturbed, can cause a fatal form of lung cancer called mesothelioma. Before being banned in the USA, asbestos could be found in flooring, drywall, attic insulation, siding, and pipe insulation.

The problem occurs if you’re doing renovation and repairs, and the material breaks up and gets into the air (and into your lungs). If you have this in your home and you plan on doing renovations, then you will need to get the material tested and removed by an accredited and reputable environmental contractor. This can be costly (up to $20 per square foot) and may become a deal-breaker.

Polybutylene piping

Polybutylene piping is a type of plastic resin used for indoor plumbing in homes from the late 70s through late 90s. The most common color of “Poly B” was light gray, but there were other colors, such as blue, silver, black, or white, depending upon region and manufacturer.

The main problem with Poly B piping in homes was its susceptibility to degradation and eventual failure over time, resulting in leaks and burst pipes, and causing sometimes catastrophic water damage. 

There are other types of plastic pipes found in homes, but if they are gray and flexible, chances are they are Poly B. Your home inspector should be able to identify them, or may recommend getting a licensed plumber to confirm the findings. Many homes built with Poly B are likely facing the need for replacement with more reliable materials.

Depending upon size, repair costs can range from several thousand dollars to more than $15,000. Discovery of Poly B is, at the very least, a reason for renegotiating a home’s selling price.

Dangerous or outdated electrical system

Two potential sticking points in home deals are aluminum electrical wiring and old-fashioned knob and tube wiring. Aluminum wiring can be trouble, because the connection to outlets, switches, fixtures, and lights can become overheated. Continual heating and cooling can result in loose connections and fires. Many insurance companies will not underwrite homes with aluminum wiring.

Knob and tube wiring lacks a ground wire for safety. An easy way to spot it is all the electrical outlets in the home have only two-prongs.

Electrical repairs and wiring upgrades can be pricey, and some buyers may choose to walk if the seller won’t budge on the price or opt to do the repair.

The need for speed!

If your inspection report reveals serious issues in the home, begin negotiations with the seller immediately, and if you do need to walk away, do it quickly. Your purchase agreement usually contains clauses about a bad inspection report of a low home appraisal. 

Your realtor and attorney can advise you on withdrawing your offer and arranging to get your earnest money returned. Then you’ll be free to find another, more suitable home for your needs.

Buying or selling a home in Western North Carolina?

Avoid unpleasant surprises! Contact Asheville Home Inspector Peter Young before signing any contracts. Call (828) 808-4980, or click here to make an appointment.

The post Potential home inspection deal-breakers appeared first on Peter Young Home Inspections.

Ever heard of kickout flashing? We would not be surprised if the term is unfamiliar. It’s time to learn about it. Kickout flashing costs very little, but it may end up saving you thousands of dollars of repair for serious water damage to your home.

Let’s take a look at what it is. Kickout flashing is also called diverter flashing. What does it do? It diverts water away from walls in places where sloped roofs and walls meet. Water running down and into your walls can lead to structural damage, rot, and mold that may not be evident until the problem becomes severe. At that point, major home repair costs are looming.

Do ask, do tell!

The International Residential Code (IRC) has required kickout flashing since 2009, but most roofers won’t install them unless you ask. North Carolina Residential Building Code doesn’t mention it by name, but the instructions are clear:

“Flashings shall be installed at roof and wall intersections, wherever there is a change in roof slope or direction and around roof openings. A flashing shall be installed to divert the water away from where the eaves of a sloped roof intersect vertical sidewalls.” 

The code describes the flashing as extending a minimum of 4” up the sidewall and have a 110-degree angle. This is sufficient to divert water away from the wall, but not so severe as to trap debris or create ice dams in winter that can lead to water backing up along the wall. The code also states that if the flashing is metal, it must be corrosion-resistant with a thickness of not less than 0.019 inches (0.5 mm).

Put simply, kickout flashing is essential to protect your home from expensive water damage, and yet it’s often overlooked or even misunderstood by many roofers.

Check out this video of what can happen without kickout flashing.

Roof replacement time

If it’s time to replace your roof, this is a great time to install kickout flashing. Even if your local code doesn’t require it, we suggest strongly that you ask the roofer to include it. 

Most forms of siding can be cut and tweaked by a roofer during installation of kickout flashing. However, stucco, masonry stone, or bricks may require a specialist to make the repair.

Here’s a video of extensive damage inside a wall on a home with stone veneer that didn’t have kickout flashing.

Do it yourself!

Installing kickout flashing is not too hard if you’re an accomplished do-it-yourselfer. But if you have any doubts about your ability, hire a qualified contractor. If you do it incorrectly, you may end up with worse damage than if you hadn’t done it at all!

Click here for a video to show you how to install kickout flashing on vinyl siding.

Please note: There are areas of this repair where caulking is needed. Don’t skimp on caulk quality. Buy the really good stuff with long life expectancy. Even then, it would be a good idea to check up there at least once a year to make sure the caulking is still secure.

We really must insist!

If you’re buying new construction, insist on kickout flashing. Do the same if you’re having your roof replaced. Don’t assume the contractors will do that automatically. Most of them probably will not. Installation before the roof is built or replaced will cost extremely little.

Kickout flashing at your local home store or online generally costs around $10 to $15. And even if you are installing after the fact and forgoing do-it-yourself in favor of hiring a professional, installing kickout flashing should cost only a few hundred dollars. Compare that to the cost of tearing out siding, soffits, fascia, insulation, drywall, and more. 

It’s a no-brainer! If you don’t have kickout flashing on your home, our best advice is to have it installed as soon as possible.

The post <strong>Inexpensive kickout flashing protects your home from water damage</strong> appeared first on Peter Young Home Inspections.

If you’re in need of roof replacement, you may be asking yourself, “Should I install asphalt shingles again, or should I get a metal roof?” Perhaps you’ve already asked your roofer for two quotes so you can compare the two choices. The question isn’t so simple, and there are several factors to consider before deciding, as well as some pros and cons of both. First, let’s compare types of metal and shingle roofs.

Heavy metal!

One type of metal roofing is called standing seam. There are two types in this category. True standing seam are long, flat panels in which the fasteners that attach to your home’s frame are hidden underneath. This type of metal roof is very durable and energy-efficient.

The second type of standing seam roof has exposed fasteners. This type is far more prevalent than the hidden panel variety these days.

Another type is called a corrugated metal roof. These have exposed, visible fasteners. These strong, durable panels display a repeating wave pattern. Most of the time, corrugated metal roofs cost less in labor costs than their standing seam counterparts. These are used mostly for sheds and barns, rather than homes.

Hitting the asphalt

Generally, two types of asphalt shingles are used in roofing. The first is known as three-tab shingles. Three-tab shingles are the most commonly used because they are the least expensive. However, the expression, “you get what you pay for,” applies here. These shingles are thin and offer less protection against heavy winds and hail. They have a shorter manufacturer’s warranty than asphalt architectural shingles. If you’re on a low budget, you might find them appealing, but expect them to wear out sooner.

Asphalt architectural shingles are your other option. They’re thought of as a higher-end variety of asphalt roofing shingles. Also known as dimensional or laminated shingles, they are made by layering two shingles together to create a layered, 3-D look. Because there are two layers, they are more durable than their three-tab cousins, resulting in longer life expectancy and a longer warranty.

All of these mentioned are valid choices for replacing your roof, but each situation differs according to each homeowner’s needs. Let’s dive a bit deeper into the pros and cons of each method, starting with metal roofing.

Metal roof pros and cons

In recent years metal roofs have become very popular for both residential and commercial uses.

Metal Roof Pros

The most appealing pro of a metal roof is its lifespan. Metal roofs are tough, and most warranties begin at 40 years. Some cover 50 to 60 years, but under the right conditions metal roofs can last even longer. 

If you’re looking to stay in your “forever home,” a metal roof may be your “set it and forget it” roofing solution.

Another big plus is that metal is solar reflective, which means it pushes the sun’s heat away from your home. This means greater energy efficiency, especially during the heat of summer. 

In addition, metal roofs are environmentally friendly. Metal is a 100% recyclable material. Every single metal panel on a roof can be repurposed for other uses, making it a favorite of “green-minded” consumers.

Finally, some roofers install metal roofing using “layover installation.” The new material is laid directly over the old material (a shingle roof, for example). This brings down labor costs related to tear-down and disposal. People on a really tight budget may opt for this, but we don’t recommend it, nor do manufacturers of metal roofing. If there is damaged plywood beneath the existing layer, it would not show up during layover installation. 

Another reason that most manufacturers do not allow a metal roof to be installed over an old shingle roof is due to condensation between the metal and the shingle roof which will corrode the metal roof. Typically a spacer such as 1×4’s would need to be installed to provide air space. Be wary of roofers who want to do a layover installation without using spacers.

Metal Roof Cons

Higher Upfront Cost: Metal roofs cost more than asphalt shingle roofs. The cost of installing one may be double that of shingles. Throw in the longevity factor and metal is actually more cost effective, but many people are put off by the upfront costs of a metal roof.

Fewer Qualified Contractors: Most roofing contractors don’t have the tools and experience to install a metal roof. Those who do may be hard to get any time soon, since they likely have a long waiting list.

HOA Troubles: If you live in a housing development governed by a home owners association, you may not have the option of installing a metal roof. If the look of a metal roof or the color doesn’t match the rules of the neighborhood, the HOA will put the kibosh on it. Always talk to them first before spending your hard-earned money on a project that will get shut down.

Damage: While far more durable than their shingle counterparts, metal roofs are not invincible. Some are susceptible to corrosion and changes in patina. Very large hail may dent a metal roof, while still leaving it functional structurally. Many insurance carriers will not cover roof replacement when the roof is functional. However, metal roofs are quite strong, and most hail storms will not affect them.

Asphalt pros

More Contractors: There are far more contractors available who install standard asphalt shingle roofs. This means a shorter waiting period than for metal roofs. Be sure you shop around and check references to find a reliable contractor in your area.

Lower Upfront Cost: Asphalt shingle roofs run about half the cost of a metal roof. For this reason, they are far more common than metal roofs. They do offer excellent protection at a greater value, particularly the architectural shingle variety.

Warranty: Manufacturer warranties differ (some 10, some 15 years). You can even find roofing contractors that are certified by manufacturers such as Owens Corning. This ensures a higher level of workmanship, as well as a greater likelihood of actual warranty coverage once your roof has been installed.

Asphalt Cons

Lifespan: Asphalt is significantly weaker than metal, and will suffer greater damage over time from heavy rain, hail, snow, and wind. Metal roofs can last an owner’s lifetime, while asphalt may need several complete replacements during that time.

Limited Colors: Asphalt shingles offer very limited color choices, and they are not paintable. Metal roofs can be painted to any color imaginable, a great feature for businesses that want their buildings visually branded.

Poor Recyclability: It is very difficult to recycle asphalt shingles, and most will inevitably end their life in a landfill and take “forever” to break down. As mentioned earlier, metal roofs are 100% recyclable. Therefore, if environmental issues are important to you, this is a factor to weigh in your decision.

What Is the Verdict?

The choice of metal or asphalt for your next roof replacement is not always easy, but is mostly dependent on your budget, your needs, and your values. While metal roofs can cost twice as much as shingles, the longevity factor is something to consider. If you plan to stay in your home and pass it on to your children, a metal roof will be more cost-effective in the long haul.

Click here to see an article about roof replacement costs.

Buying or selling a home?

Avoid unpleasant surprises! Contact Asheville Home Inspector Peter Young before signing any contracts. Call (828) 808-4980, or click here to make an appointment.

The post Pros and cons of metal vs shingle roofs appeared first on Peter Young Home Inspections.

Does your asphalt shingle roof have black streaks, especially on the side facing north? This is very common in humid areas of the country. Often mistaken for mold or mildew, these stains are more likely caused by airborne spores of a blue-green algae species called Gloeocapsa Magma. Should you be worried? Is this a serious problem? Breathe easy. These spores do very little harm to your shingles, but they detract from the beauty of your home, especially if you are putting it up for sale any time soon. Even if you don’t intend to sell your home, you may be tired of seeing those black streaks.

Maybe you’ve noticed that stains and streaks are missing below any metal flashing on your roof. That’s because copper or zinc coatings on galvanized sheet metal are toxic to algae. So each time it rains, trace amounts of copper or zinc trickle down the roof and retard algae growth. 

You may also have noticed that algae stains are absent directly below the metal flashing around chimneys or roof vents. This is due to fact that copper and the zinc coating on galvanized sheet metal are toxic to algae. Every time it rains, trace amounts of metals are washed down the roof, inhibiting algae growth.
Let’s explore a few ways to eliminate Gloeocapsa Magma.

First, what NOT to do!

Never pressure wash asphalt shingles. The water pressure will remove the layer of grit from the shingles, rendering them less effective to protect the roof. It also may lift shingles up from the roof surface, making your home susceptible to water damage during rainstorms.

There are “professional” services out there that claim they can pressure wash your shingles. Don’t let them even try it.

Get out your chemistry set!

If you’re the “mad scientist” type, you might want to make your own algae-killing concoction. Get yourself a garden pump-up sprayer, and put these ingredients into it:

• One quart bleach
• One gallon of water
• A cup of trisodium phosphate (TSP) per gallon

NEVER mix any product that contains ammonia with bleach. Toxic fumes can be harmful or even fatal.
You’ll also need a bit more gear before you get started.

• Garden hose with spray nozzle
• Safety glasses or goggles
• Rubber gloves
• Old clothes
• Slip resistant shoes
• A ladder

Be sure to wear goggles to protect your eyes from the bleach solution. You may also want to consider wearing a mask that guards against fumes, especially if you’re sensitive to bleach. The gloves are for keeping the bleach off your hands. The slip-resistant shoes are a no-brainer. Rooftops can be dangerous even when dry. Use extreme caution when you get them wet.

Now you’re ready to begin. Spray this mixture liberally over the algae stains, let it sit for about 20 minutes, and then rinse it off with a hose.

NOTE: The bleach solution run-off can harm or kill plants, so before you start, hose down any plants that may come into contact with the solution, or hose them and cover them with plastic sheeting for extra protection. When you’re done, hose them down again.

The store-bought method

If you’re not the type to mix potent home brews, try Wet & Forget Outdoor Cleaner, a ready-made, bleach-free solution with a solid reputation for conquering rooftop algae. Unlike many other products on the market, Wet & Forget is EPA registered and biodegradable. A single gallon container makes six gallons of solution. It has some other advantages, such as:

• Conserves water, since it requires no scrubbing or rinsing
• One-step application: Spray and walk away
• Works with the wind and rain to do its job over time
• Eliminates algae, moss, lichens, mold, or mildew
• No bleach, non-acidic (pH level of 8), and no phosphates
• Unlimited shelf life
• Stores indefinitely in the sprayer after mixing
• Safer for shingles than bleach
• Safe for all outdoor surfaces, such as decks, slabs, fences, and stone paths
• Keep shingles clean for more than a year

Zinc or copper keeps those shingles clean

Whether you choose home-made or store-bought, repeated use of chemicals may shorten the life of your shingles. That’s why the best solution is to prevent the algae from coming back. As mentioned above, galvanized metal containing zinc or copper is toxic to roof algae and can keep it from returning.

Install a 2” to 4” strip of copper- or zinc-coated sheet metal along each side of your roof just beneath the ridge. Pure copper is more toxic to algae, but galvanized sheet metal is far cheaper to buy and is readily available from most home stores.

If you’re confident working on the roof, attach these strips with roofing nails or screws with rubber washers. If you have reservations about penetrating your roof’s protective seal, call a professional roofer to do this job for you.

Replace with algae-resistant shingles

If it’s time to replace your roof, ask for algae-resistant shingles with copper granules mixed in. They may cost a bit more, but avoiding those ugly streaks may be worth the price.

While those unsightly streaks of algae may not really harm your roof, there’s no need to live with them if you choose otherwise. Clean them off, and then take steps to keep them from coming back.

Buy or selling a home in or near Asheville?

Avoid unpleasant surprises! Contact Asheville Home Inspector Peter Young before signing any contracts. Call (828) 808-4980, or click here to make an appointment online.

The post Eliminate ugly roof algae and keep it away appeared first on Peter Young Home Inspections.

Everyone knows that you need to get a thorough, professional home inspection before purchasing a home. Sometimes it’s all smooth sailing, but there are times when inspectors zero in on serious issues. Are these issues “deal breakers?” That depends on how serious (and expensive) they are, but it also can depend upon the direction of the real estate market at the time.

In areas where there’s a glut of homes, buyers have a lot of leeway in demanding that sellers make fixes before the sale. However, in a hot sellers’ market like Western North Carolina is in currently, sellers know that buyers can’t be too choosy and are more reluctant to agree to expensive fixes. But there are some issues that need to be fixed before lenders will agree to finance the property. Let’s look at some of the more serious issues that may arise in a home inspection.

Foundation issues

Nearly all houses have some kind of “settling.” Over time, a home’s weight causes it to settle into the ground. This can create hairline cracks in the basement or even in walls. Most of these small cracks are not significant, but larger cracks can indicate a serious problem. 

For example, a quarter inch crevasse traversing a basement wall from floor to ceiling might indicate a serious problem. A house supported on concrete blocks is an accident waiting to happen. Likewise with slanted floors. If the house has settled too much, it may result in structural weakness. If cracks are large, the inspector may recommend a structural engineer to decide whether they are dangerous. If the home has serious structural issues, this is likely to be very expensive, and until it is fixed, banks may not offer financing on the structure.

Water damage

When there is standing water in the basement or evidence of water stains elsewhere in a house, inspectors hear alarm bells. While a small water stain on the ceiling may look like a simple fix, it could be evidence of a wider problem. Water works its way downward, so a stain in the basement might be caused by a leak in the roof. 

The trouble could be the roof or skylights, drain tile cracks, or a serious issue with the home’s plumbing system. The cause should be determined before buying the home. Water intrusion in a home can lead to another serious issue, and that is mold.

Black mold

It’s not unusual to find surface mold in poorly ventilated bathrooms, but black mold in a basement or crawl space is a far more serious issue. Black mold can cause allergies, asthma, and other serious health issues. If mold is widespread, the cost of remediation can be very expensive.

First you must bear the cost of removal, and then the added costs of making sure it doesn’t return. Serious mold issues might be due to foundation cracks allowing water to seep in, or it could be caused by roof leaks or plumbing failures. Any of those three causes require expensive fixes.

Antiquated or faulty electrical systems

Pre-1960 homes may have an antiquated “knob and tube” electrical system. In most areas, those systems don’t meet local codes, which means the home’s entire electrical system will have to be replaced. In some cases, walls may have to come down in order to do the wiring repairs.

Speaking of wiring, old wiring may be a serious fire hazard, and replacing it can set you back many thousands of dollars. Then there’s aluminum wiring, which was discontinued in Western North Carolina after 1974. Aluminum wires can overheat, resulting in fire damage. If a home is found to have aluminum wiring, it will need to be replaced.

Vermin infestations

There are vermin, and then there are vermin! It’s not too serious if an inspector finds some evidence that there were mice in the home. Most homes will host mice from time to time, and the owner can put out traps or even get a few cats to remedy the situation.

Termites are another story entirely. Termites show up when moisture gets into wood in your home, and they can literally eat you out of house and home, as the saying goes.

Getting rid of them can be difficult and very costly. First you must kill them, then you must replace the wood they destroyed, and finally you must keep an eye on the area to be sure they don’t come back. Small areas can be spot treated, but larger infestations may require tenting the house, and this is a costly endeavor.

Inspectors may find other pests, such as squirrels, bats, and raccoons. They will need to be removed by professionals, and then their means of entry must be sealed up. This requires some repair, but is far less of an issue than termites.

These are some of the more serious issues home inspectors find. Are they deal breakers? They can be. If they prevent lenders from financing the property, they will have to be fixed, but in a hot sellers’ market it may be more difficult to get sellers to make these repairs. However, as most realtors will tell you, “Everything is negotiable.” It’s always an issue of what each side is willing to compromise to make the deal happen.

Buying or selling a home?

Avoid unpleasant surprises! Contact Asheville Home Inspector Peter Young before signing any contracts. Call (828) 808-4980, or click here to make an appointment.

The post Serious home inspection issues could impact closings appeared first on Peter Young Home Inspections.