As a home inspector, I’ve been places you couldn’t pay me enough to go if it wasn’t literally my job. I’ve shimmied into attics hotter than the surface of the sun and squeezed behind furnaces that haven’t been cleaned since the Carter administration. But nothing—and I mean nothing—competes with the crawlspace.

In the hierarchy of “Places Homeowners Don’t Want to Go,” the crawlspace is the undisputed champion. It’s dark, it’s cramped, and it’s usually home to an unsettling number of spiders that look surprisingly like weightlifters. Because it’s unpleasant, the crawlspace suffers from a severe case of “out of sight, out of mind.” You shut that little access door, walk away, and pretend the space below your subfloor doesn’t exist.

Here is an uncomfortable truth I have to deliver to clients often: Ignoring your crawlspace is like ignoring a cavity. It doesn’t get better on its own; it just gets more expensive and painful to fix.

In a crawlspace, the root of nearly all evil is moisture. A wet crawlspace is an active petri dish trying to consume your house from the bottom up.

If you’ve been blissfully ignoring that damp dungeon beneath your feet, here are a few reasons why you need to grab a flashlight (or better yet, HIRE ME to grab a flashlight) and find out what’s going on down there.

The Stack Effect (Why Your House Smells Like Dirt)

Before we get to the disasters, let’s have a quick science lesson. Your house operates like a giant chimney. Hot air rises and escapes out of your attic. To replace that air, your house sucks in new air from the lowest points—usually the crawlspace.

Building scientists call this the “stack effect.” I call it “inhaling the swamp.” Is your crawlspace damp, moldy, and smelling like a wet dog that rolled in mushrooms? Guess what? That’s the air you are breathing in your living room. 

Up to 50% of the air on your first floor originated in your crawlspace. If that doesn’t gross you out, nothing will.

Problem #1: The Structural Buffet

Your house is likely made of wood. The wood used for framing, joists, and subflooring needs to be dry. When crawlspace humidity gets above 70%, that wood starts absorbing moisture like a sponge.

Do you know what loves damp wood? Rot fungus.

I’ve been in crawlspaces where I could stick my screwdriver handle-deep into a main support beam because it had the consistency of wet cardboard. When wood rots, it loses its structural integrity. This leads to sagging floors, doors that suddenly stick, and cracks in your drywall upstairs. In a worst-case scenario, the whole structure could come tumbling down like a house of cards!

If your kitchen floor has started to feel “bouncy” when you walk across it, it’s not because your home is morphing into a backyard party bounce house. It’s because the joists below are transforming into mulch.

Problem #2: The Pest Party

Water is life. Unfortunately, that applies to pests, too. A dry crawlspace is an inhospitable desert to bugs. A wet crawlspace is an all-inclusive resort.

Termites are attracted to moisture. They don’t just want wood; they want soft, damp wood that’s easy to chew. 

A wet crawlspace is practically rolling out the red carpet for them.

Furthermore, high moisture attracts camel crickets (also known as sprickets). If you’ve never encountered one, they look like a spider and a shrimp had a terrifying baby that jumps directly at your face when startled. They love damp environments. Drying out the crawlspace is the only way to evict them permanently.

Problem #3: The Mold Explosion

Mold is the four-letter word of real estate. Lenders consider mold a major risk to the property’s value and structural integrity, often requiring professional remediation and a clean inspection report before final loan approval. 

Mold needs three things to thrive: food (your wood framing), appropriate temperature (crawlspaces are warm and snuggly), and moisture.

If you have a damp crawlspace, you almost certainly have mold growth. It might look white and fuzzy, or black and patchy on the floor joists. 

Remember the stack effect? Those mold spores don’t stay downstairs. They hitch a ride on rising air currents and enter your living space, potentially aggravating allergies and asthma. If your house has a persistent, musty “old basement” smell that no amount of scented candles can mask, that eau de stank is likely coming from under the house.

Ignorance Is NOT bliss! Stop Ignoring It.

Look, I get it. You don’t want to go down there. It’s gross.

But if you do start to notice musty smells, cupping hardwood floors, high indoor humidity, or a sudden increase in creepy-crawlies, take heed. “Just open the vents in the summer” is actually terrible advice. In humid climates it brings more wet air in to condense on cool surfaces.

So, it’s time to move from “everything is ruined” to “here’s how we save the house.” In the world of home inspections, we generally look at a hierarchy of fixes depending on whether you have a minor dampness issue or a full-blown subterranean swamp.

Here is a breakdown of how to actually dry out the dungeon.

1. The Vapor Barrier (The “Must-Have” Minimum)

Think of a vapor barrier as a raincoat for your crawlspace floor. Even if the ground looks dry, the earth is constantly “exhaling” moisture. A vapor barrier, usually a heavy-duty plastic (polyethylene) sheeting, is laid over the soil to stop that moisture from rising.

• Standard Grade: Most builders throw down a 6-mil plastic sheet. It’s better than nothing, but it’s thin and tears if you so much as look at it funny.
• Pro Grade: We recommend 10-mil to 20-mil reinforced plastic. It’s tough enough to crawl on without ripping, and it stays in place.

2. Diversion and Drainage

If you have actual standing water after a rainstorm, a plastic sheet isn’t the answer. You’ll just have a very expensive indoor swimming pool under your house.

• Gutters and Downspouts: I can’t tell you how many “wet crawlspace” issues are actually just clogged gutter issues. If your downspouts dump water right next to the foundation, gravity will do the rest.
• Sump Pumps: If the water table is high or the terrain forces water toward your house, you need a sump pump. It’s a bucket in the ground with a pump that says, “Not today, water,” and flings it far away from the foundation.

Crawlspace Encapsulation (The Gold Standard)

This is the nuclear option, and it’s arguably the best thing you can do for your home’s health. Instead of just covering the floor, you seal the entire space like a Tupperware container.

What’s involved:

• Sealing the Vents: Close off those foundation vents that allow humid summer air to enter.
• Wall Liners: The heavy plastic doesn’t just sit on the floor; it’s taped and sealed several feet up the foundation walls.
• Insulation: Replacing old, fiberglass “pink stuff” (which acts like a moldy sponge) with rigid foam board on the walls.

Pro Tip: Never encapsulate your crawlspace without addressing drainage first. If you trap water behind your beautiful new plastic liners, you’re just creating a giant, hidden mold bag.

Dedicated Dehumidification

Once the space is sealed, you might need to manage the air. In that case, you can’t just use a $200 dehumidifier from a big-box store; it’ll burn out in six months or sooner trying to keep up. You need a commercial-grade, low-temperature dehumidifier specifically designed for crawlspaces. These units are costly, but they can pull gallons of water out of the air daily and drain automatically so you never have to empty a bucket.

Before you panic and buy a crate of industrial fans, get your crawlspace inspected. Let us brave the spider-gymnasts and assess the moisture levels. Your home’s foundation (and your lungs) will thank you.

Buying Or Selling A Home in WNC?

Avoid unpleasant surprises! Contact Asheville Home Inspector Peter Young before signing any contracts. Call (828) 808-4980, or click here to make an appointment.

The post Dungeon Down Under: A Wet Crawlspace Can Be Your Home’s Worst Nightmare appeared first on Peter Young Home Inspections.

Your home is a huge investment, and not just for its purchase price. Regular maintenance and repairs add up over time, but are necessary to retain your home’s highest value. One thing you don’t need is extensive damage from wood-destroying insects! Before you purchase a home, it’s best to find out if there has been a previous infestation, and whether current conditions are conducive for a reinfestation. Always get a home inspection before signing the purchase agreement.

Let’s take a look at the types of insects that may be eating your home and what to do about them. We’ll look at termites, carpenter bees, carpenter ants, and wood-boring beetles. You don’t want any of these chewing on your house.

The award for most destructive goes to…

Termites are the most destructive wood-destroying insects. Their nests may be outside your home, but their appetite for cellulase-based food sources may lure them into your home to feed on wood structures. Termites break down the cellulase in wood. It’s their number one delicacy. Trouble is, they can be happily chewing away at your wood for years before you begin to notice the damage.

Since your roofing structure is made of wood, extensive termite damage can cause it to collapse, exposing your home to rain, wind, or snow. The cost of repair can be devastating.

Termites sometimes live under your house, eating away at wood that supports floors above your crawl space. A properly-constructed home should not have wood-to-ground contact. Wood-to-ground supports for subfloors or decks are a prime entryway for termites. When wood is used for support, it should be encased in concrete footers to separate it from the ground. Nor should wood supports be in direct contact with subfloors. One solution is to use steel wood-to-wood caps.

Signs of infestation

Just because you haven’t noticed termites, that doesn’t mean they’re not your housemates. It’s wise to have your home inspected every few years. While most home inspectors are not certified to identify specific wood-destroying insects, they can point out some tell-tale signs and refer you to a certified pest-control specialist. Here’s what the pros look for:

• Mud-like deposits clinging to wood surfaces
• Mud tubes or tunnels that link a ground nest to your homes wooden structure
• Evidence of tunnels in wood or tiny holes
• Buckling paint on wood exteriors
• Discolored drywall that resembles water damage
• Small piles of tiny wings on surfaces

A good offense

The best defense against termites is a good offense. Begin by eliminating conditions that are conducive to infestations, such as:

• Debris piles underneath or around the structure
• Planter boxes attached to or touching structure
• Insufficient ventilation
• Wood-to-ground contact
• Mulch touching structure
• Wood pile in contact or too close to structure
• Wood rot
• Excessive moisture

Click here to see a video of conducive conditions.

Carpenter ants

There’s an internet joke where someone is hearing the song “Close To You,” coming from the ground. He exclaims, “Oh, no! Carpenter ants!” 

That’s funny, but finding carpenter ants in your home is dead serious.

Some people mistake swarming (winged) carpenter ants for termites. There are noticeable differences. In the photo at left, the top drawing is a termite, and the bottom drawing is a carpenter ant.

Carpenter ants have a noticeable waist, elbowed antennae, and two sets of wings that are of different lengths. Termite have no visible waist, straight antennae, and all four wings are equal in size.

Carpenter ants don’t eat wood like termites. They will excavate dead and damp wood and dig tunnels in which to nest. If left unrepaired, damp wood will succumb to dry rot, creating the perfect environment for carpenter ants. 

If you see winged carpenter ants in your home, there is likely a nest nearby. Like termites, the winged ones are mating. The large ones that look like wasps are queens looking for a new place to make a nest. Now would be a good time to contact a pest control service.

Carpenter bees

Carpenter bees do not eat wood, but they drill circular holes inside the wood to live in it. Many homeowners will discover carpenter bees nesting in frames, eaves, or on the wooden sides of buildings. The bees are large, and the males will swoop at you to scare you off, but only the females can sting, but they usually won’t bother unless you stick your fingers in their holes.

Carpenter bees pose a threat to houses, because they weaken the structural integrity of the wood after years of boring holes. Also, carpenter bee larvae usually live inside the holes, and woodpeckers throw fuel on the fire by pecking and enlarging the nesting holes to eat the larvae. 

One way to keep carpenter bees away is to paint or stain all your wood surfaces. Carpenter bees don’t seem to like paints, stains, or varnishes.

Powder post beetles

These critters are second to termites in regard to the kind of damage they can do to your home. They deposit their larvae in wood around your home, and their number one delicacy is the cellulose in wood fibers.

You might see signs of a powder post beetle infestation by the powdery wood residue they leave behind, resembling fine sand. 

Powder post beetle larvae are born inside the wood and may happily munch on it for up to five years, leaving it brittle and unfit for structural support. By the time you spot them, damage to your home and roof may be devastating. That’s why the prudent thing to do is schedule an inspection with a certified pest inspector yearly.

An ounce of prevention

You know what “they” say an ounce of prevention is worth. The best way to protect your home and your roof is to arrange for professional inspections at least every two years.

Get a home inspector to check for signs of wood damage. Depending on the findings, the inspector may recommend a licensed pest control inspector to make further determinations.

The best strategy against wood-destroying insects is to be proactive. It’s the keep you keeping your home safe for many years to come.

Set up a pest inspection

Peter Young Home Inspections can arrange for a pest inspection. Click here to make an appointment.

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A common question that customers ask home inspectors is, “What is included in a home inspection?” Home inspections are essential to the process of buying and selling homes. Financing may hinge upon the findings and subsequent remediation of issues that may be found during inspections. If you’re in the market as a buy or seller, a home inspection will soon be on your agenda.   These are the areas covered in most Asheville home inspections:  

• Roof
• Attic/Garage
• Exterior
• Basement, Foundation, Crawlspace, and Structure
• Heating & Cooling
• Fireplace
• Plumbing
• Electrical
• Permanently Installed Kitchen Appliances
• Doors/Windows/Interior
• Insulation

  Let’s take a closer look. This article is part one, and will be continued next month.

What’s up with the roof?

Your roof is an essential component of an Asheville home inspection. Think of your roof like a turtle’s protective shell. It keeps out the heat in summer, fends off the cold in winter, and keeps your home dry when it rains. That’s why it’s important to be sure your roof is doing the job for which it was intended. Trouble is, small roof issues can be hard to spot, but over time they can be serious. One single point of water entry can transform a rainstorm into a damp, moldy disaster for your ceiling. 

A favorable roof inspection is desirable, since a damaged or deteriorated roof can put the brakes on mortgage financing or insurance coverage.

In addition to its outer covering of tiles, shingles, or other materials, roof systems contain additional components. Plumbing and gas vents, attic fans, skylights, chimneys, and stovepipes that penetrate the roof can be sources of potential leaks, particularly as the home and roof ages. Inspectors routinely leaks in the flashing or sealing around these penetrations. Left unattended, rot and mold will become unwanted visitors, and the cleanup and repairs can be costly. Improperly installed or clogged gutters and downspouts can allow water to seep under shingles and damage what lies beneath.

Inspectors have their own set of rules about walking on rooftops during inspection. Most will not go up on the roof during periods of rain, snow, ice, or wind. Some will walk only on one-story rooftops and only when conditions are right. If inspectors can’t or won’t walk on their roof, they have other ways of seeing what’s up there, such as ladders and binoculars, and flying drone cameras that can get up close and personal with all roof areas and components, without putting the inspector at risk of injury. Call your inspector to find out what methods he or she employs to check your roof during Asheville home inspections.

Can your home FAIL an inspection?

The short answer is NO. However, poor inspection reports may be reasons for axing the deal or renegotiating price. See our blog on this topic for more information.

Things that go bump in the attic

To many homeowners, an attic is just the empty space between the roof and ceiling. To others attics are places to store boxes and items hard to throw away, but hardly, if ever, used. However, your attic can reveal a lot about your home’s condition and reveal problems that may require immediate attention. That’s why inspectors take a close look at what’s in the attic, including your home’s ventilation, insulation, and condition of the structure itself.

In cases of suspiciously high energy bills, mold in the house, and poor air quality, the attic can be quite revealing. Clues about a home’s history reside in the attic. Black, sooty, or painted rafters could indicate there had been a fire in the home. Tunnels in beams and wood shavings on the attic floor may indicate wood-destroying insects.  

Inspectors need safe access to the attic, either an attic hatch or a folding ladder entry. Most inspectors will not enter attics if the only opening is above a staircase. The risk of serious injury or death from a fall is too great.  

Do you hear bumps or scratching sounds coming from your attic? Rats, mice, raccoons, possums, or other critters may have taken up residence there. During Asheville home inspections, your inspector may see the creatures themselves, or find signs of their presence.

What’s up there?

Here’s what inspectors look for in the attic:

• Ventilation: Poor ventilation can reveal as mold, rusted nails and condensation
• Insulation: Your attic should not feel drafty, and insulation should appear whole and complete
• Leaks: Mold, rot, and water stains are tell-tale signs of leaks.
• Pests: Your inspector may find droppings, nests, leaves, acorns and damaged insulation
• Exhaust ducts and vent stacks: These should not terminate in the attic, but should continue through the roof to the outside

What’s outside?

Inspectors give a good going-over to a home’s exterior. The first thing checked is wall covering, such as siding, trim (, and flashing. Generally, inspectors don’t remove any of this material to check beneath. The inspection is done with what’s visible from the outside.

The inspector makes note of the material (stucco, brick, shake shingles, wood, etc.), and looks for evidence of rot, cracking, paint bubbling, rust, bowing and curling.  

Next on the list are exterior doors and windows. The inspector will check the exterior doors and windows for observable damage, such as rot, cracks, and decay. Generally, these include only items visible and accessible at ground level, and do not include screens, shutters, or storm windows.

Walking the walk

In the next phase of Asheville home inspections, the inspector “walks the walk.” To be specific: the paths that lead to the home, such as driveways, walkways, and stairways. The inspector looks for structural integrity and stability, checking for cracked or rotted steps, stair spacing, and secure handrails. Overgrown vegetation, level terrain, and proper pitch (sloped away from the home) are noted. Poor surface drainage and standing water can be detrimental to a home’s structural integrity.  

Decks and balconies may be hiding weather damage or longtime wear and tear. Fresh stain or paint can make it difficult to detect problems. Inspectors carefully check the top and underside for structural issues, such as improper attachment, sagging, improper joist installation, rotted boards, and loose or improper handrails.  

Eaves, fascia, and soffits (those areas that protrude from under the roof) are checked, if visible. The inspector will note any rot, mold, or water damage.  

Next month we’ll continue with part two, and we’ll take a close look at basements/crawlspaces, heating and cooling, fireplaces/stoves, plumbing, electrical, and interior doors and windows.

Buying or selling a home?

Avoid unpleasant surprises! Contact Asheville Home Inspector Peter Young before signing any contracts. Call (828) 808-4980, or click the link below to make an appointment.

The post What’s in a home inspection? Part 1 appeared first on Peter Young Home Inspections.

Homes move like lightning in the hot Asheville real estate market.

A home inspection can have a significant effect on the sale of a home. If an inspection reveals life or property-threatening problems, it can even kill the deal. Or it can send the parties back to the bargaining table to renegotiate the price or convince the seller to make some needed repairs.

What is “reasonable and customary” regarding home inspections? What findings may be deal breakers? On the other hand, which items would be considered “nitpicky” for a buyer to demand? These questions may be have varying significance, depending upon whether we are in a buyer’s or seller’s market. If there is a glut of real estate for sale, then buyers can be as choosy as they wish. However, in tighter markets, such as the Asheville real estate market and surrounding and Buncombe County, listed homes can move at lightning speed, leaving buyers in more of a take-it-or-leave-it marketplace battlefield.

This being said, let’s take a look at what items are acceptable to ask sellers to fix if an inspection brings them to light.

Substantial home inspection problems

Termite tubes run through this board.

No matter the condition of the market, if an inspection reveals defects that are structural, mechanical, or environmental, it is reasonable for the buyer to request the seller to make repairs. This means issues that could prevent or restrict use of the home. Here’s a short list:

• Leaking roof or water intrusion at the home’s foundation
• Major drainage problems
• Mold problems
• Termites and other wood-destroying pests
• Electrical defects that create safety issues
• Wildlife in the attic (bats, squirrels, raccoons, possums, etc.)
• Well water or spring issues, such as inadequate pressure or volume of water
• Plumbing problems that interfere with use of the home, such as a backed up septic system or non-functioning toilets
• Lead paint (it’s a federal requirement for sellers to disclose any lead paint findings)

This list is by no means inclusive, but it represents issues that are reasonable and customary for buyers to ask sellers to handle previous to closing.

Minor issues might seem “nitpicky”

Don’t ask the seller to stain the deck.

As mentioned earlier, homes move quickly in the hot Asheville real estate market. In this environment, sellers may become irritated if they find your demands are focused on too many small issues. Let’s face it; if a listing has ten potential buyers standing in line, the seller has the luxury of grabbing the deal that seems most advantageous. To avoid being left in the dust, there are a number of demands that are best not to make. The following list is not all-inclusive, but is intended as a good guideline.

• Cosmetic issues. Is there a cracked tile in the backsplash behind the bathroom sink? Does a deck or rail need staining? Don’t ask the seller to fix those. You must ask yourself two questions before asking a seller to make a repair. One, if you or the seller walk away from the deal, is this a problem for which the next potential buyer would  demand action; and two, would this problem interfere with your ability to get financing on the home? If the answers are no, it’s probably best to bite the bullet and keep quiet about this particular issue.
• Cracks in the basement floor. Since concrete is a porous substance, it absorbs water and has a tendency to “settle.” Concrete floor cracks are not a structural problem, and are of little concern unless they are allowing water into the basement through the floor. However, cracks in basement walls present a more serious problem and should be inspected carefully.
• Repairs costing less than $100. There may be dozens of minor issues that need to be addressed, but home closings usually have a time frame in which to make those repairs. Don’t overwhelm the seller with a daunting list of requests, or he/she may just move on to the next offer.

Don’t ask the seller to fix small issues

Choose your battles wisely. Here are a few more minor issues that you should not to ask the seller to fix if you’re trying to buy in a hot market.

• 

  This outlet had water inside and was sparking.

  Non-functioning light switches or outlets.When it comes to switches and outlets, wires can become loose. It might be just a worn-out switch or outlet, however it may be indicative of a larger electrical problem. Your home inspector will determine if the electrical system is safe, or if there might be a more serious issue. Repairing a few old switches and outlets is usually inexpensive, so don’t insist on every switch working or looking like new. Wet areas (kitchens and bathrooms) should have GFCI outlets installed. However, many older homes don’t have them. Don’t stress over it. They are very easy to install by a qualified electrician.

• Cosmetic landscaping or small yard issues. While it’s important for a home to have “curb appeal,” you should not expect the seller to replenish the flower beds or trim trees as a condition of the sale. Nor should you ask the seller to level those few bricks in the garden path or remove the dandelions in the front yard – not unless you want to risk having your offer passed over.
• Loose fixtures, knobs, etc.If you find light fixtures, doorknobs, or even railings to be loose, this is some of the “small stuff” we’re always urged not to sweat. While a loose railing may be inconvenient or even unsafe, these kinds of problems can be solved most of the time by walking around with a few basic hand tools. Unless your inspector finds wood rot, decay, or major safety issues, it’s best to avoid asking the seller to take care of it.

Strike a balance

Know the difference between essential and non-essential repairs, and always keep the market in mind. In a “buyer’s market,” you have much more leeway to make demands of the seller. However, in a “seller’s market,” you don’t want to risk losing the sale by seeming too unreasonable, demanding, or nitpicky.

Buying or selling a home in the Asheville real estate market? Avoid unpleasant surprises! Don’t sign a contract before calling Asheville home inspector Peter Young. Click the orange button below to make an appointment.

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Don;t buy a home without a pest inspection first!.

For most potential buyers, a home inspection is a given prior to purchase. What about a pest inspection? Do you need that before you sign a contract to buy a house? Yes you do!

A state-licensed professional conducts pest inspections, also known as termite inspections. The inspector visually checks all accessible areas in a home, including crawl spaces, attics, and exteriors for evidence of:
• Wood-destroying insects (termites, carpenter ants, wood-boring beetles) and fungal rot.
• Evidence of previous infestations, such as damaged wood, dead insects, wings, and “termite tubes” in the wood.
• Conditions favorable to pests, such as plumbing leaks, earth-to-wood contact, and standing water.

Most states do not require a pest inspection by law before the sale of property, but a majority of mortgage lenders do. Many buyers require a termite contingency, allowing them to withdraw from the purchase in the event extreme damage is discovered.

Also, if you’re selling a home, it may be advantageous to get a pest inspection before placing the home on the market to make the property more attractive to potential buyers. Whether you’re a buyer or seller, here are some solid reasons to get a pest inspection:

Protect your investment

Call Peter Young for your Asheville pest inspection.

Buying a home is a big investment. In fact, for many people it’s the biggest purchase they’ll ever make. Home ownership and upkeep go hand in hand. You wouldn’t live in a home with a leaky roof, right? Extensive and expensive damage to the structure would decrease the home’s value. The same is true with common household pests. Termites, carpenter ants, wood-boring beetles, rodents, and other pests can do severe damage to a home. These kinds of pests are not easy to spot by untrained eyes. It’s better to have a professional pest inspection service give the house a shakedown before you sign that contract.

Protect your health

It’s not just your money at stake from pests in a home; your health may be at risk. Flies, roaches, mosquitoes, fleas, mites, rodents, and bed bugs can be sources of disease. Out here in Western North Carolina, it’s not uncommon for homes to have bats, and that could mean bat bugs. Where there are bats there is guano, which can carry disease. Speaking of disease-causing droppings, there are a number of health problems associated with rodent feces. So if a house has rodents, you definitely need to know that up front.

Peace of mind with an Asheville pest inspection

Sleep more soundly with a pest inspection.

There’s a definite advantage to sleeping at night without the sound of tiny mouse feet on the kitchen floor! Knowing that your home is free of rodents and aggressive, destructive insects, as well as unpleasant surprises in the form of huge repair bills helps you sleep more soundly at night.

So before you sign on the dotted line for a house be sure that both a physical home inspection and pest inspection are included in the purchase contract. Then if the inspections reveal serious problems, you can cancel the purchase of the property. Or if the inspection reveals the presence of pests but not significant damage, you can negotiate with the seller to adjust the home price to reflect the cost of pest extermination or ask the seller to take care of it before arranging the closing.

For more information about pest inspections, please check out this article from the North Carolina Department of Agriculture and Consumer Services.

Know before you buy!

Asheville home inspector Peter Young provides complete home inspection services in Asheville and surrounding areas. Call Peter today at 828-808-4980 to arrange a home inspection or to set up your Asheville pest inspection.

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Facts about wood decay:

Carpenter ants, termites and other wood-destroying insects do not cause wood decay. These insects are, however, attracted to wood that has been softened by decay. Decay fungi are active in temperatures between 77° F to 90° F, and need water, oxygen and a food source to survive. Fungi that cause wood decay are called saprophytic, a term also applied to other organisms that consume decayed material. Many species of fungi, along with saprophytic beetles, worms, protists and bacteria are essential components of the decomposition and nutrient cycles.

How does wood decay happen?

Fungi reproduce by manufacturing single-celled spores, similar to microscopic seeds. Spores are tough; they’re able to resist extreme conditions of White decay temperature and humidity and, under adverse conditions, they may go dormant for long periods. Spread primarily by air currents, they collect on horizontal surfaces. Decay fungi feed on the cellulose and lignin of which wood cell walls are composed. Their hyphae, which are threadlike tubes that penetrate the wood, secrete enzymes which dissolve at least part of the wood cell being fed upon, changing it into a form which can then be absorbed as food. Spores require a moisture content higher than the Fiber Saturation Point (FSP) of the wood species upon which they rest, typically between 27% and 30%. Once sufficient water and favorable temperatures are available, spores germinate and develop by extending a hyphal tube. As more spores germinate, fungi multiply to form a colony. Under the right conditions, colonies can expand quickly.

Common types of wood decay:

Brown rot: This type of decay causes the wood to break down into brown cubes that split against the grain. Advanced stages of brown decay result in dry, powdery wood that is unable to support much weight, and crumbles easily.
White rot: This type of decay appears whitish, stringy and mushy, and tends to be more common in hardwoods.
Dry rot: A misnomer, this term has been used to describe decayed wood that has since dried and ceased decaying. Some people may erroneously assume that the wood is still in the process of decay. Moisture is required for wood decay to occur, so no literal “dry rot” exists.

Peter Young Home Inspections check any areas suspected of containing decay by probing. A screwdriver works well for this. Wood with advanced decay will be soft and the probe will penetrate easily. Areas with incipient decay may be a little trickier to identify. The pick test can also be used to identify decayed wood. To perform this test, a pointed tool, such as an ice pick, is inserted beneath the wood grain to pry loose a thin section of wood till it breaks free. Sound wood will snap crisply and typically breaks off to one side of the pick. Decayed wood will break with a dull sound and usually breaks above the pick’s point of insertion.
Although wood-destroying insects, such as termites, are attracted to decayed wood, they also inhabit sound wood. Peter Young Home Inspections offers Wood Destroying Insect Inspections as an add-on service.

Decay Prevention

If the decay hazard is high, select the heartwood of decay-resistant species, or use wood properly treated with a good preservative.
• Proper grading can prevent water from seeping under the house.
• Effective roof overhangs, gutters and downspouts should be installed.
• No untreated wood should be placed within 18 inches of the ground.
• Adequate cross-ventilation in crawlspaces will help eliminate dead air pockets, which contribute to wood decay.
• A vapor barrier can be installed on the soil surface to help limit evaporation and return moisture to the soil, rather than allowing it to condense on the floor and above joists. Plastic sheets can cover the soil to act as satisfactory barriers.
• Dehumidifiers and bathroom and kitchen fans will reduce indoor water vapor, and potentially dry wood enough to prevent decay.

Likely decay locations

• Stairs and attachment points to the house in decks
• Improperly installed door thresholds, especially beneath sliding glass doors
• Decks at or near grade
• Ground-roof penetration
• Roof penetrations with improper or corroded flashing
• Beneath windows
• Support post bases of decks
• Near corrosion of fittings on plumbing
• Basements or crawlspaces where hosebibs may have burst
• Sub-floors at the base of toilets and tub corners
• Uphill side of chimneys
• Sidewall and headwall locations
• Untreated wood in direct contact with concrete, masonry or soil

Moisture can come from:

• General moisture intrusion of building envelope
• Plumbing leaks
• Snowmelt
• Improperly installed, damaged or corroded flashing
• Ice dams
• Finish grades that slope toward the foundation
• Foundation cracks
Types of naturally resistant and non-resistant wood

Resistant woods: teak, rosewood, oak, redwood, cedar, black locust, red mulberry and yews.
Non-resistant woods: hemlock, pine, maple, aspen, alder, elm, birch, buckeye, poplar and beech.

In summary, wood decay is caused by fungi that are attracted to wet locations. For a home inspection contact Peter Young at 828-808-4980.

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