As a home inspector, I’ve been places you couldn’t pay me enough to go if it wasn’t literally my job. I’ve shimmied into attics hotter than the surface of the sun and squeezed behind furnaces that haven’t been cleaned since the Carter administration. But nothing—and I mean nothing—competes with the crawlspace.

In the hierarchy of “Places Homeowners Don’t Want to Go,” the crawlspace is the undisputed champion. It’s dark, it’s cramped, and it’s usually home to an unsettling number of spiders that look surprisingly like weightlifters. Because it’s unpleasant, the crawlspace suffers from a severe case of “out of sight, out of mind.” You shut that little access door, walk away, and pretend the space below your subfloor doesn’t exist.

Here is an uncomfortable truth I have to deliver to clients often: Ignoring your crawlspace is like ignoring a cavity. It doesn’t get better on its own; it just gets more expensive and painful to fix.

In a crawlspace, the root of nearly all evil is moisture. A wet crawlspace is an active petri dish trying to consume your house from the bottom up.

If you’ve been blissfully ignoring that damp dungeon beneath your feet, here are a few reasons why you need to grab a flashlight (or better yet, HIRE ME to grab a flashlight) and find out what’s going on down there.

The Stack Effect (Why Your House Smells Like Dirt)

Before we get to the disasters, let’s have a quick science lesson. Your house operates like a giant chimney. Hot air rises and escapes out of your attic. To replace that air, your house sucks in new air from the lowest points—usually the crawlspace.

Building scientists call this the “stack effect.” I call it “inhaling the swamp.” Is your crawlspace damp, moldy, and smelling like a wet dog that rolled in mushrooms? Guess what? That’s the air you are breathing in your living room. 

Up to 50% of the air on your first floor originated in your crawlspace. If that doesn’t gross you out, nothing will.

Problem #1: The Structural Buffet

Your house is likely made of wood. The wood used for framing, joists, and subflooring needs to be dry. When crawlspace humidity gets above 70%, that wood starts absorbing moisture like a sponge.

Do you know what loves damp wood? Rot fungus.

I’ve been in crawlspaces where I could stick my screwdriver handle-deep into a main support beam because it had the consistency of wet cardboard. When wood rots, it loses its structural integrity. This leads to sagging floors, doors that suddenly stick, and cracks in your drywall upstairs. In a worst-case scenario, the whole structure could come tumbling down like a house of cards!

If your kitchen floor has started to feel “bouncy” when you walk across it, it’s not because your home is morphing into a backyard party bounce house. It’s because the joists below are transforming into mulch.

Problem #2: The Pest Party

Water is life. Unfortunately, that applies to pests, too. A dry crawlspace is an inhospitable desert to bugs. A wet crawlspace is an all-inclusive resort.

Termites are attracted to moisture. They don’t just want wood; they want soft, damp wood that’s easy to chew. 

A wet crawlspace is practically rolling out the red carpet for them.

Furthermore, high moisture attracts camel crickets (also known as sprickets). If you’ve never encountered one, they look like a spider and a shrimp had a terrifying baby that jumps directly at your face when startled. They love damp environments. Drying out the crawlspace is the only way to evict them permanently.

Problem #3: The Mold Explosion

Mold is the four-letter word of real estate. Lenders consider mold a major risk to the property’s value and structural integrity, often requiring professional remediation and a clean inspection report before final loan approval. 

Mold needs three things to thrive: food (your wood framing), appropriate temperature (crawlspaces are warm and snuggly), and moisture.

If you have a damp crawlspace, you almost certainly have mold growth. It might look white and fuzzy, or black and patchy on the floor joists. 

Remember the stack effect? Those mold spores don’t stay downstairs. They hitch a ride on rising air currents and enter your living space, potentially aggravating allergies and asthma. If your house has a persistent, musty “old basement” smell that no amount of scented candles can mask, that eau de stank is likely coming from under the house.

Ignorance Is NOT bliss! Stop Ignoring It.

Look, I get it. You don’t want to go down there. It’s gross.

But if you do start to notice musty smells, cupping hardwood floors, high indoor humidity, or a sudden increase in creepy-crawlies, take heed. “Just open the vents in the summer” is actually terrible advice. In humid climates it brings more wet air in to condense on cool surfaces.

So, it’s time to move from “everything is ruined” to “here’s how we save the house.” In the world of home inspections, we generally look at a hierarchy of fixes depending on whether you have a minor dampness issue or a full-blown subterranean swamp.

Here is a breakdown of how to actually dry out the dungeon.

1. The Vapor Barrier (The “Must-Have” Minimum)

Think of a vapor barrier as a raincoat for your crawlspace floor. Even if the ground looks dry, the earth is constantly “exhaling” moisture. A vapor barrier, usually a heavy-duty plastic (polyethylene) sheeting, is laid over the soil to stop that moisture from rising.

• Standard Grade: Most builders throw down a 6-mil plastic sheet. It’s better than nothing, but it’s thin and tears if you so much as look at it funny.
• Pro Grade: We recommend 10-mil to 20-mil reinforced plastic. It’s tough enough to crawl on without ripping, and it stays in place.

2. Diversion and Drainage

If you have actual standing water after a rainstorm, a plastic sheet isn’t the answer. You’ll just have a very expensive indoor swimming pool under your house.

• Gutters and Downspouts: I can’t tell you how many “wet crawlspace” issues are actually just clogged gutter issues. If your downspouts dump water right next to the foundation, gravity will do the rest.
• Sump Pumps: If the water table is high or the terrain forces water toward your house, you need a sump pump. It’s a bucket in the ground with a pump that says, “Not today, water,” and flings it far away from the foundation.

Crawlspace Encapsulation (The Gold Standard)

This is the nuclear option, and it’s arguably the best thing you can do for your home’s health. Instead of just covering the floor, you seal the entire space like a Tupperware container.

What’s involved:

• Sealing the Vents: Close off those foundation vents that allow humid summer air to enter.
• Wall Liners: The heavy plastic doesn’t just sit on the floor; it’s taped and sealed several feet up the foundation walls.
• Insulation: Replacing old, fiberglass “pink stuff” (which acts like a moldy sponge) with rigid foam board on the walls.

Pro Tip: Never encapsulate your crawlspace without addressing drainage first. If you trap water behind your beautiful new plastic liners, you’re just creating a giant, hidden mold bag.

Dedicated Dehumidification

Once the space is sealed, you might need to manage the air. In that case, you can’t just use a $200 dehumidifier from a big-box store; it’ll burn out in six months or sooner trying to keep up. You need a commercial-grade, low-temperature dehumidifier specifically designed for crawlspaces. These units are costly, but they can pull gallons of water out of the air daily and drain automatically so you never have to empty a bucket.

Before you panic and buy a crate of industrial fans, get your crawlspace inspected. Let us brave the spider-gymnasts and assess the moisture levels. Your home’s foundation (and your lungs) will thank you.

Buying Or Selling A Home in WNC?

Avoid unpleasant surprises! Contact Asheville Home Inspector Peter Young before signing any contracts. Call (828) 808-4980, or click here to make an appointment.

The post Dungeon Down Under: A Wet Crawlspace Can Be Your Home’s Worst Nightmare appeared first on Peter Young Home Inspections.

Basements have a sketchy reputation. Things lurk down there: forgotten holiday decorations, that treadmill you swore you’d use, and (unfortunately) that dreaded musty smell that hints at water problems.

A wet basement is more than just an annoyance; it’s a structural liability, a potential health hazard (hello, mold!), and a destroyer of perfectly good board games. However, the mere thought of excavating your entire yard to waterproof from the outside can feel like a Herculean task, a muddy, expensive, and frankly, back-breaking endeavor. So, the question arises, with a glint of desperation in your eyes: “Can I waterproof my basement from the inside?”

The short answer, delivered with a sigh of relief, is YES. You absolutely can. 

While not always the permanent “cure-all” for every single problem, interior waterproofing methods are highly effective for patching and managing some common issues. Think of it less as a miracle cure for a sinking ship, and more as installing a robust, internal life raft. Let’s take a quick look.

Find the Source, Of Course, Of Course!

Don’t just assume the water is seeping up from a mysterious underground spring where a forgotten pirate treasure is buried (though wouldn’t that be nice?). 

Look for signs: water stains on the walls, efflorescence (that powdery white mineral deposit that looks like your wall is shedding its skin), and of course, puddles.

Is the water seeping through cracks in the foundation? Is it coming up from the floor? Pinpointing the source is the first and most crucial step.

Once you’ve identified your foe, it’s time to choose your weapon.

Your Interior Arsenal: Sealing & Drainage

One of the most popular and effective interior waterproofing methods involves a combination of sealing and drainage. This is often the go-to solution for walls that are seeping water through small cracks or porous concrete. The process typically starts with a thorough cleaning of the walls to remove any paint, debris, or efflorescence. You need a clean slate for the products to adhere properly.

Next, you can apply a waterproof paint or sealant. These specialized coatings, often sold at your local hardware store, are designed to create a barrier on the interior surface of the foundation walls. Think of it as a super-tough, water-resistant skin for your basement. While this can be a fantastic first line of defense for minor dampness, it’s not a magical fix for major leaks.

If you’re seeing a steady stream of water running down a portion of your wall, paint alone will simply peel and fail under the pressure. For more significant water intrusion, you’ll need to go a step further and install an interior drainage system. This is a game-changer. 

An interior drainage system, also known as a French drain or weeping tile system, can be installed along the perimeter of the basement floor. Dig a trench, put a perforated pipe inside, and cover it with gravel. 

This system’s genius lies in its ability to capture water as it enters the basement from the walls and floors, and then channel it to a sump pump. The sump pump, a hero in its own right, then ejects the water safely away from your home. This method doesn’t stop the water from entering, but it brilliantly controls and redirects it, keeping your basement floor dry and your sanity intact. We highly recommend hiring a professional to set this all up.

Hydraulic Cements and Sealants

Another tool in your internal waterproofing arsenal is hydraulic cement. This isn’t your average concrete; it’s a fast-setting material specifically designed to stop active water leaks.

If you have a specific, gushing crack in your foundation wall, hydraulic cement can be a lifesaver.

It expands as it sets, creating a tight seal that even a determined drip will have a hard time getting past. Applying cement can feel like a high-stakes, race-against-the-clock kind of project, but the satisfaction of watching a leak disappear is unmatched.

Finally, don’t underestimate the power of simply sealing cracks. For smaller, hairline cracks in the floor or walls, using a quality concrete crack sealant can make a world of difference. It’s a bit like putting a band-aid on a scrape. It’s not for a gaping wound, but it’s perfect for preventing a small problem from becoming a big one.

Look Beyond the Walls

So, you’ve painted, drained, and sealed, and your basement is now a dry, usable space where you can finally set up that home gym without fear of your rowing machine floating away. Give yourself a high five!

But here’s the crucial point, the grand finale, the “but wait, there’s more!” of the waterproofing world.

While interior waterproofing is a brilliant and effective solution for many basement woes, it’s crucial to understand what it’s doing. It’s managing the water, not necessarily stopping its source. If you have a significant issue with exterior hydrostatic pressure – water building up against the outside of your foundation walls and actively pushing its way in – interior solutions are a powerful defense, but they aren’t addressing the root cause. This is where you have to look outside. 

Poor grading, clogged gutters, or a failing exterior foundation drain can all be the true culprits. You’ve fixed the symptoms, but to ensure your basement stays dry for the long haul, you may need to address the source of the problem by improving your yard’s drainage and ensuring water is directed away from your home’s foundation. It’s the difference between patching a leaky roof and just putting buckets under the drips. Both will work, but only one is a real fix. 

So, enjoy your dry basement, but keep an eye on the bigger picture. Consider asking a professional to assess your home’s foundation.

Buying or selling a home in WNC?

Avoid unpleasant surprises! Contact Asheville Home Inspector Peter Young before signing any contracts. Call (828) 808-4980, or click here to make an appointment.

The post Out, Out, Damp Spot: A Short Guide to Waterproofing a Basement From the Inside appeared first on Peter Young Home Inspections.

People often ask if a home inspection can kill a real estate deal? The simple answer would be no. An inspection of itself is not the reason deals are called off. However, there are times when the inspector finds serious issues with a house, which can cause negotiations between buyer and seller to break down, and the deal may fall apart.

First, let’s define the role of a home inspector. An inspector is a professional hired by buyers or sellers to carefully inspect a house and inform you of things that may be broken and in need of repair or replacing. When he or she does find issues in a home, the report may recommend seeking out an “expert,” such as a licensed electrician, roofer, plumber, or HVAC specialist for further evaluation or remediation. That’s because most of the time, inspectors are not licensed in these fields.

In most cases, the buyer hires the inspector and pays him to do his job and present his report. There are times when an inspection may uncover serious issues that may cause buyers to walk away from the deal. However, the inspector presents the findings in a neutral fashion, without getting involved in negotiations between the seller and the buyer.

As a home buyer, do you need an inspection? That’s a resounding YES! North Carolina is a “buyer beware” state. As a buyer, it is your responsibility to learn everything you can about a property before signing on the dotted line. When trouble is found, you can request repairs or a discount for the cost of the repairs, but if the seller won’t budge, you have the option of walking away from the deal.

The greater Asheville area is still a hot seller’s market, so negotiation may be off the table for small issues, but major defects are a different matter entirely. Let’s take a peek at some of the discoveries that sometimes derail the sale of a home.

Water damage and mold

Mold forms from damp or even wet conditions. Moisture in the house can come from a leak in the roof or chimney, cracked foundation walls, flooding, failing siding, and more.

Mold in the attic or basement left unchecked can cause problems in the home’s interior.

If you find mold and moisture on the insulation in your attic, make an appointment with a licensed roofing company to find and eliminate the problem at its source. Then you’ll need to consult a mold remediation company to clean it up.

Water and mold in homes may cause some buyers to walk away from the deal.

Major foundation issues

A home’s foundation is the core upon which the structure rests. Major problems with the foundation will likely reveal other issues in the home, such as:

• Uneven floors
• Sticking or tilted doors and windows
• Dampness or water in the basement

Minor cracks in the foundation are normal, since all houses settle over time. However, large cracks can be a cause of concern and require a foundation expert to estimate the potential cost of repair.

Major foundation repairs can range in the tens of thousands of dollars. Discuss solutions with the seller, such as getting them to repair the problem. This may have to be fixed before the deal can go through, because lenders may reject a property with serious foundation issues. If the seller refuses, then the buyer might choose to end the deal.

Roof repair or replacement

A roof is more than just a barrier from the elements. It helps maintain the home’s structural integrity. Instructors will look for loose or missing shingles, soft spots, and signs of water damage. Even relatively new roofs can lose shingles in storms. These are easily replaceable, but rotted wood underneath the shingles can be an expensive fix and may signal the need for complete roof replacement.

Can complete roof replacement be a deal-breaker? That depends. If the roof is shot and needs immediate replacement, some folks will amend their offer, or they might request the seller make the repairs, or they might just walk away from the deal.

Finding asbestos in the home

Older homes may have asbestos, which, when disturbed, can cause a fatal form of lung cancer called mesothelioma. Before being banned in the USA, asbestos could be found in flooring, drywall, attic insulation, siding, and pipe insulation.

The problem occurs if you’re doing renovation and repairs, and the material breaks up and gets into the air (and into your lungs). If you have this in your home and you plan on doing renovations, then you will need to get the material tested and removed by an accredited and reputable environmental contractor. This can be costly (up to $20 per square foot) and may become a deal-breaker.

Polybutylene piping

Polybutylene piping is a type of plastic resin used for indoor plumbing in homes from the late 70s through late 90s. The most common color of “Poly B” was light gray, but there were other colors, such as blue, silver, black, or white, depending upon region and manufacturer.

The main problem with Poly B piping in homes was its susceptibility to degradation and eventual failure over time, resulting in leaks and burst pipes, and causing sometimes catastrophic water damage. 

There are other types of plastic pipes found in homes, but if they are gray and flexible, chances are they are Poly B. Your home inspector should be able to identify them, or may recommend getting a licensed plumber to confirm the findings. Many homes built with Poly B are likely facing the need for replacement with more reliable materials.

Depending upon size, repair costs can range from several thousand dollars to more than $15,000. Discovery of Poly B is, at the very least, a reason for renegotiating a home’s selling price.

Dangerous or outdated electrical system

Two potential sticking points in home deals are aluminum electrical wiring and old-fashioned knob and tube wiring. Aluminum wiring can be trouble, because the connection to outlets, switches, fixtures, and lights can become overheated. Continual heating and cooling can result in loose connections and fires. Many insurance companies will not underwrite homes with aluminum wiring.

Knob and tube wiring lacks a ground wire for safety. An easy way to spot it is all the electrical outlets in the home have only two-prongs.

Electrical repairs and wiring upgrades can be pricey, and some buyers may choose to walk if the seller won’t budge on the price or opt to do the repair.

The need for speed!

If your inspection report reveals serious issues in the home, begin negotiations with the seller immediately, and if you do need to walk away, do it quickly. Your purchase agreement usually contains clauses about a bad inspection report of a low home appraisal. 

Your realtor and attorney can advise you on withdrawing your offer and arranging to get your earnest money returned. Then you’ll be free to find another, more suitable home for your needs.

Buying or selling a home in Western North Carolina?

Avoid unpleasant surprises! Contact Asheville Home Inspector Peter Young before signing any contracts. Call (828) 808-4980, or click here to make an appointment.

The post Potential home inspection deal-breakers appeared first on Peter Young Home Inspections.

Everyone knows that you need to get a thorough, professional home inspection before purchasing a home. Sometimes it’s all smooth sailing, but there are times when inspectors zero in on serious issues. Are these issues “deal breakers?” That depends on how serious (and expensive) they are, but it also can depend upon the direction of the real estate market at the time.

In areas where there’s a glut of homes, buyers have a lot of leeway in demanding that sellers make fixes before the sale. However, in a hot sellers’ market like Western North Carolina is in currently, sellers know that buyers can’t be too choosy and are more reluctant to agree to expensive fixes. But there are some issues that need to be fixed before lenders will agree to finance the property. Let’s look at some of the more serious issues that may arise in a home inspection.

Foundation issues

Nearly all houses have some kind of “settling.” Over time, a home’s weight causes it to settle into the ground. This can create hairline cracks in the basement or even in walls. Most of these small cracks are not significant, but larger cracks can indicate a serious problem. 

For example, a quarter inch crevasse traversing a basement wall from floor to ceiling might indicate a serious problem. A house supported on concrete blocks is an accident waiting to happen. Likewise with slanted floors. If the house has settled too much, it may result in structural weakness. If cracks are large, the inspector may recommend a structural engineer to decide whether they are dangerous. If the home has serious structural issues, this is likely to be very expensive, and until it is fixed, banks may not offer financing on the structure.

Water damage

When there is standing water in the basement or evidence of water stains elsewhere in a house, inspectors hear alarm bells. While a small water stain on the ceiling may look like a simple fix, it could be evidence of a wider problem. Water works its way downward, so a stain in the basement might be caused by a leak in the roof. 

The trouble could be the roof or skylights, drain tile cracks, or a serious issue with the home’s plumbing system. The cause should be determined before buying the home. Water intrusion in a home can lead to another serious issue, and that is mold.

Black mold

It’s not unusual to find surface mold in poorly ventilated bathrooms, but black mold in a basement or crawl space is a far more serious issue. Black mold can cause allergies, asthma, and other serious health issues. If mold is widespread, the cost of remediation can be very expensive.

First you must bear the cost of removal, and then the added costs of making sure it doesn’t return. Serious mold issues might be due to foundation cracks allowing water to seep in, or it could be caused by roof leaks or plumbing failures. Any of those three causes require expensive fixes.

Antiquated or faulty electrical systems

Pre-1960 homes may have an antiquated “knob and tube” electrical system. In most areas, those systems don’t meet local codes, which means the home’s entire electrical system will have to be replaced. In some cases, walls may have to come down in order to do the wiring repairs.

Speaking of wiring, old wiring may be a serious fire hazard, and replacing it can set you back many thousands of dollars. Then there’s aluminum wiring, which was discontinued in Western North Carolina after 1974. Aluminum wires can overheat, resulting in fire damage. If a home is found to have aluminum wiring, it will need to be replaced.

Vermin infestations

There are vermin, and then there are vermin! It’s not too serious if an inspector finds some evidence that there were mice in the home. Most homes will host mice from time to time, and the owner can put out traps or even get a few cats to remedy the situation.

Termites are another story entirely. Termites show up when moisture gets into wood in your home, and they can literally eat you out of house and home, as the saying goes.

Getting rid of them can be difficult and very costly. First you must kill them, then you must replace the wood they destroyed, and finally you must keep an eye on the area to be sure they don’t come back. Small areas can be spot treated, but larger infestations may require tenting the house, and this is a costly endeavor.

Inspectors may find other pests, such as squirrels, bats, and raccoons. They will need to be removed by professionals, and then their means of entry must be sealed up. This requires some repair, but is far less of an issue than termites.

These are some of the more serious issues home inspectors find. Are they deal breakers? They can be. If they prevent lenders from financing the property, they will have to be fixed, but in a hot sellers’ market it may be more difficult to get sellers to make these repairs. However, as most realtors will tell you, “Everything is negotiable.” It’s always an issue of what each side is willing to compromise to make the deal happen.

Buying or selling a home?

Avoid unpleasant surprises! Contact Asheville Home Inspector Peter Young before signing any contracts. Call (828) 808-4980, or click here to make an appointment.

The post Serious home inspection issues could impact closings appeared first on Peter Young Home Inspections.

A common question that customers ask home inspectors is, “What is included in a home inspection?” Home inspections are essential to the process of buying and selling homes. Financing may hinge upon the findings and subsequent remediation of issues that may be found during inspections. If you’re in the market as a buyer or seller, a home inspection will soon be on your agenda.

Here in part 2, we’ll take a look at:

• Basements/crawlspaces 
• Heating and cooling 
• Fireplaces/stoves 
• Plumbing 
• Electrical
• Interior doors and windows

Look out below!

Not all homes have basements. Some have crawlspaces, and some are built on slabs. A lot of basements are dimly-lit spaces with bare concrete or block walls – places to house the water heater, furnace, electrical panel, or HVAC system. For a home inspector, basements are a great vantage point from which to gain valuable insights into the overall health of your home. From visible cracks in the foundation, to water stains, to telltale signs of pest invasion, a basement tells a story to an inspector’s trained eyes. 

Then there are “finished basements,” with all the amenities, that serve as recreation rooms, home office space, or even separate guest quarters. Since these have finished walls and floor coverings, they can hide issues from the inspector. Still, there are signs, such as a musty smell or dampness, that signal the picture isn’t as rosy as it may appear.

Your inspector checks the foundation for cracks in the walls and floor, and gaps in the fitting of doors and windows. Another sign of foundation damage can be seen outside the basement in uneven ceilings and roof structures.
Unfinished basements can reveal excess moisture and signs of leaks. The inspector looks for leaking pipes, water seepage through windows or wall cracks, and telltale evidence of past flooding and water damage. If the basement ceiling is the subfloor for the level above, the inspector will check for structural integrity and the condition of the insulation. If the insulation is hanging loose and damp, there is a problem with excess moisture, which can penetrate the home.
Basements with water issues or poor air circulation can negatively affect air quality in the rest of the home. The two major issues are the presence of mold from excess moisture and the presence of radon gas in the ground or water supply. Moist, leaky basements usually signal the arrival of pests, such as insects or rodents, which can be potential health hazards.

What’s crawling around down there?
Your crawlspace should be safe and clean. Your inspector must be able to enter safely to check for:

• Foundation cracks
• Moisture and mold
• Wiring problems
• Framing issues
• Insect and vermin infestations
• Ventilation
• Vapor barriers
• Asbestos or other hazardous materials

The first important step in a crawlspace inspection is that the inspector needs to be able to enter safely. Assuming the entry is large enough to pass through, the inspector will first look inside to see if there are exposed construction materials, exposed nails, unprotected electrical wires, standing water, or a strong smell of mold. If these are present, the inspector will not go inside, and the crawlspace will not pass inspection.
Failing a crawlspace inspection is not a Shakespearean tragedy. Chances are good your inspector can make recommendations to remedy the situation.

Can your home FAIL an inspection?
The short answer is NO. However, poor inspection reports may be reasons for axing the deal or renegotiating price. See our blog on this topic for more information.

Blowing hot and cold

Your home inspection will include a check of the HVAC system. HVAC stands for heating, ventilation, and air conditioning. The system includes the integrated components of the home’s heating and air conditioning system, including main units, air handlers, pipes, ducts, electrical components, and central thermostat. It keeps your home warm in winter and cool in summer, and it also regulates indoor air quality and removes excess moisture through a cycle of inside-outside air circulation.

Home inspectors will check the overall condition of the HVAC system, but they can only inspect what they can see. This includes what can be seen in crawlspaces and attics, such as ducts and vents. Some elements are hidden in walls or under floors, such as pipes and electrical components.

Things that are invisible to the inspector are not included in the inspection. That being said, an experienced inspector knows how to spot signs of potential hidden defects. He may use a moisture detector to pinpoint dampness. Considering the cost of HVAC repair or replacement, it is worth the price to hire an experienced inspector for peace of mind. 

Your HVAC system requires regular maintenance. Click here for a handy month by month guide to HVAC maintenance.

Fireplaces and wood stoves

For many people, winter means it’s time to light the fireplace or woodburning stove. Your HVAC system may keep your home at a steady temperature, but nothing warms your bones on a cold night like a bright, crackling wood fire.

Woodburning appliances must not be taken lightly. My Chimney reports more than 20,000 chimney fires in the U.S. each year. Some are not apparent until an inspector finds the blackened evidence. Others burn so hot that they take out part or all of the home in a fiery blaze. If that’s not bad enough, there’s always the risk of carbon monoxide poisoning. That’s why it’s good to have an inspector check out the appliance and chimney before you buy a home, and that’s why we call in the services of a chimney specialist if your home requires a stove, fireplace, or chimney inspection.

If the stove or fireplace is used regularly, it should be visually inspected and cleaned each fall before fire season sets in. Chimney and stove pipe brush kits available at home stores, but if you’re not comfortable on a ladder or on the roof, then you’d be better off calling in a chimney sweep each fall before winter sets in.

The pipes, the pipes…

What does a home inspector look for in a home’s plumbing system? Generally, the inspector will check all sinks, toilets, bathtubs, showers, and outdoor spigots to ensure they are working properly. This also includes installed systems throughout the house. This means anything attached to the home that would require tools for removal, such as a sump pump for removing moisture from the basement.

The inspector checks for leaks or evidence of leaks. A seasoned inspector knows exactly where to look on floors, along the foundation, and on basement walls. Leaking water may indicate that pipes require repair or replacement before they cause water damage to foundations, floors, and ceilings.

I’ve got the power!

Another area of inspection is the home’s electrical system. Once again, the inspector can only check what can be seen. Wiring problems behind walls can be overlooked, however the inspector may find electrical issues in attics, basements, or crawlspaces, such as exposed wires or improper junctions.

The inspector will visit each room and turn on all lights and electrical fixtures. He or she may do a tactile inspection of wall outlets and receptacle plates to ensure they are not warm to the touch. Finally, the inspector will check the main breaker panel to ensure there are no overloaded breakers or faulty connections.  Some older homes still have fuses, rather than breaker panels. If the fuse box is very old, the inspector may recommend that the system be checked by a licensed electrician for safety and peace of mind.

Windows and doors

On the interior side of windows, the inspector will determine if the thermal seal is broken (the glass is going cloudy or there is moisture between the panes). Windows should operate smoothly and not fall when let go, and they should lock securely. There should be no cracked or broken panes, water staining of the wood, and the windows should be painted or stained to protect the wood. Weather stripping around doors and windows must be intact and in place securely.

As you can see, a home inspection is serious business! Without a favorable inspection, a buyer may not be able to secure financing and insurance.

Buying or selling a home?

Avoid unpleasant surprises! Contact Asheville Home Inspector Peter Young before signing any contracts. Call (828) 808-4980, or click the link below to make an appointment.

The post What’s in a home inspection? Part 2 appeared first on Peter Young Home Inspections.

Here’s something you probably didn’t know. Large numbers of Americans live in “old” houses. More than 38% of all homes in the US were built before 1970, according to Eye on Housing. In fact, only 19% of owner-occupied homes were built after 2000, and a mere 3% were built after 2010. Generally, homes built after 1990 are considered newer, while homes built prior to 1920 are designated old or antique. 

Many people think of older homes as having better materials and workmanship than newer (or new) construction. This is not always true. Even when it is, older homes may show issues of wear and tear, deteriorating conditions, and obsolete systems. With this in mind, let’s take a look at some common dangers that may lurk in older homes, especially if you are thinking of purchasing one.

Out, out damp spot!

Moisture has a way of finding its way through the walls, roof, or below the ground level of houses. While this can occur in houses of all ages, older homes that have lacked proper maintenance are especially susceptible to penetrating dampness. Some known culprits for dampness are missing or damaged roof tiles or shingles, deteriorating or poorly sealed flashing, leaking or damaged rain gutters, gaps in doors and windows, foundation cracks, and damaged or deteriorating siding. Also, brick and stone work can deteriorate with age, and become more porous and susceptible to frost or storm damage.  Water stains on ceilings or interior walls is a sure sign of penetrating dampness. If not repaired, water continues to enter, especially during heavy rainfall. Droplets of water on walls or ceilings is another bad sign. Damp areas are cooler than the surrounding wall, and condensation forms on the surface. Depending upon the cause of water intrusion, repairs can be costly, such as putting on a new roof, repairing the foundation, or replacing exterior siding. If the dampness is not resolved, it can lead to our next hidden danger. 

Breaking the mold 

Always check an older home for signs of previous water damage. If the underlying cause was fixed, but the areas were never properly dried, mold is likely to be present. In the presence of moisture, organic material, warmth, and oxygen, mold can sprout quickly and rapidly spread. How serious is mold? According to the  Centers for Disease Control (CDC) the Institute of Medicine (IOM) found “sufficient evidence to link indoor mold exposure with upper respiratory tract symptoms, cough, and wheeze in otherwise healthy people; with asthma symptoms in people with asthma; and with hypersensitivity pneumonitis in individuals susceptible to that immune-mediated condition.” Small patches of mold can be cured with a spray-on mold remover. Larger infestations will require the services of a professional to eliminate. Keep in mind that the mold you see may be just the tip of the iceberg. Ask your home inspector to check for more serious signs of mold.

Get the lead out! 

Older homes can be dazzling with ornate doors and intricate windows. However, these charming features may harbor a potential danger: lead paint. Homes prior to the 1970s likely contain lead in some of these original features. Until the mid-60s, lead paint was commonly used on windows, doors, and other woodwork. In some cases, lead paint may be buried under layers of subsequent paint jobs. If undisturbed it poses no problem, but if you intend to sand or strip and repaint wood features, it’s best to err on the side of caution and consult a professional. 

When lead paint begins to deteriorate, it can release dust which can cause serious health issues if inhaled, such as kidney, nerve and brain damage, and infertility. That’s why if lead paint is suspected, it must be removed by professionals. One way of recognizing lead paint is by its unique pattern of deterioration. While other paints peel as they age, lead paint cracks in very distinct rectangle patterns. If you’re unsure if paint in your home contains lead, call your home inspector for a professional evaluation. Home buyers must receive notice of possible lead paint, and contracts can be contingent on a successful lead inspection.      

Find EPA lead paint guidelines here.

Asbestos 

Homes built prior to 1970 are more likely to have asbestos. Asbestos can be found in insulating materials, roof shingles, ceiling and floor tiles, and around furnaces and boilers, where fire resistance is desired. 

Why is asbestos dangerous? If asbestos is sitting intact and dormant it doesn’t pose much risk. However, when disturbed, asbestos fibers are release into the air. When inhaled they can cause serious respiratory illnesses and even a serious, fatal form of cancer called Mesothelioma.   

If you are renovating your home and you suspect asbestos-containing materials, or you have disturbed asbestos during your work, then stop work immediately, and call the appropriate state agency for guidance.  

Click here for North Carolina asbestos abatement guidelines and resources.

A shocking situation 

Odds are that the electrical system in an older home is just as old as the home itself. Old electrical systems and wiring may include hidden dangers. Many homes built prior to the mid-70s have two-prong, ungrounded electrical outlets. In 1969 Underwriters Laboratories mandated three-prong plugs on major appliances for safety. Trouble is, only half of the receptacles in US homes were three-prong at that time. Wiring in most homes did not include a grounding wire. Ungrounded systems increase the risk of electrical shock in the event of circuit failures.   

Unfortunately, in a significant number of homes, three-prong outlets were installed without a grounding wire being added. Without the grounding wire, a three-prong receptacle is no safer than a two-prong. That’s why it’s important for your inspector to check all the home’s receptacles to know what is really there. 

Another potential problem in older homes is aluminum wiring. Copper wiring is safer and far less flammable. Aluminum wire is 50% more likely to cause a fire due to its high operating temperature. Faulty and aging wiring is one of the main causes of fires in homes.  See our May 2020 blog on home fire safety for more information. Damaged plugs, sockets and frayed cables can cause shocks, deadly electrocution, burns, and devastating home fires. These are some warning signs of a faulty electrical system:

• Dim or flickering lights
• Electrical interference (static) on your television
• Frequent circuit breaker tripping
• Sparks or sizzling sounds from sockets
• Acrid burning smells
• Warm or hot switches or sockets

If you notice any of these signs, call an electrician immediately.  If you’re not sure about the age of your electrical system, make an appointment with your home inspector. In fact, it’s a good idea to have your home’s electrical system inspected every ten years. Electricity must not be taken lightly. It can kill you or destroy your home.

It’s a gas gas gas! 

Electricity is not the only potential killer lurking in an older home. Carbon monoxide gas is known as the “silent killer,” because it is odorless, tasteless, and colorless, and it can smack you with a fatal dose without you even being aware of it. Caused by incomplete burning of carbon-based fuels, carbon monoxide may be an issue in older homes if the furnace or other oil or gas burning heaters have been neglected and allowed to deteriorate. Low-level exposure to carbon monoxide can cause flu-like symptoms that ease off when you’re away from the property. These can include:

• Headaches
• Dizziness
• Nausea and vomiting
• Tiredness and confusion
• Stomach pain
• Difficulty breathing / shortness of breath

Higher levels of exposure are more serious, and may cause these symptoms:

• Loss of physical coordination
• Increased heart rate
• Chest pains
• Changes in behavior/mental impairment
• Vertigo
• Seizures
• Loss of consciousness
• Death

The best way to keep yourself and your family safe is to install carbon monoxide detectors in your home. Install one in the room where a carbon burning device is being used, and install them in main living areas, such as outside bedrooms. If your carbon monoxide detector is ever triggered, get out of the house immediately and call your gas company from a safe distance.  

Don’t let these potential dangers scare you away. Older homes have their charm. As the saying goes, forewarned is forearmed. When your inspector knows what to look for, you can buy that older home with confidence.

Call Peter Young Home Inspections 

Buying or selling a home? Never sign any contract without first getting a home inspection!  Call Asheville Home Inspector Peter Young, 828-808-4980, or click here to make an appointment today.

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Once upon a time, Asheville basements were little more than overgrown utility areas for storing unsightly items, housing the furnace, electrical panels, and maybe even a washer and dryer. In these times, with above ground living space getting so expensive, basements have seen a transformation into living spaces, such as rec rooms with pool tables, home theater systems, or even full bedrooms and bathrooms. This may be a convenient and inexpensive way to claim more living space in your home, but if some common basement problems are not overcome first, occupants of these spaces may be putting their health at risk. Even if you don’t use your basement as a living space, some of the problems down there can affect the rest of the house. This is why a basement inspection by a licensed home inspector is essential. There are three types of basements: 

• Unfinished
• Partially finished
• Finished 

With some variations, the same or similar problems can exist in all three.

Unfinished basements

An unfinished basement is an old-school, bare bones concrete room with no drywall, flooring, or furniture. It might be a laundry room, Dad’s workshop, or a creepy, musty storage room. Even though an unfinished basement does not count as square footage in a real estate transaction, home inspectors are required to inspect them and report any uncovered defects. Since unfinished Asheville basements have bare concrete walls, it is relatively easy for an inspector to spot a variety of issues. Here are some common problems. 

Mold & Mildew 

A stale and musty odor is a sign of water intrusion in a basement. The odor is from mold, and it means the basement is not dry. Eliminating the odor means cleaning and drying the walls, woodwork, and whatever you have stored down there. But you can’t stop there; you must find and eradicate the source of the moisture. If your land slopes toward your house, moisture intrusion will always be a problem in your basement. If you get standing water down there, you will need to install a sump pump. If it just always feels and smells moist, perhaps a dehumidifier will do. 

White residual deposits

Also called efflorescence, white residual deposits are found in basements that have water issues. The white residue is not a health risk of itself, but it can be an indicator of cracks in the foundation or walls in an unfinished basement. Cracks in the walls and floor may be superficial, but they also could be a problematic source of water intrusion. Your home inspector can determine whether the cracks are cosmetic or structural. 

Structural Defects 

Problems with walls, ceilings, and beams are easy to spot in an unfinished basement. Shoddy or incomplete joists can cause problems in the floors above. Past or present water issues can cause significant rot in wood joists, which in turn can create structural problems. 

Pest Infestations 

Roaches, ants, termites, and rodents may find a damp basement attractive. If the problem is moisture-related, it will not go away without drying up and eliminating the source of moisture. If you see signs of pests in your Asheville basement, your home inspector can arrange for a pest inspection.   

Dangerous fumes 

Basements can be contaminated with hazardous fumes. These are caused by several factors: 

• Stored solvents – since basements are used as storage spaces for household chemicals, such as paint, cleaning supplies, and solvents, be sure none of these are leaking. Prolonged exposure to chemical fumes can be dangerous to your health.
• Carbon monoxide – many homes have their furnaces in the basement. This should be inspected regularly for safe operation. When not maintained, furnaces can leak deadly carbon monoxide. Keep a carbon monoxide detector in your basement and one at the top of the stairs where you can hear it if it goes off. If the alarm sounds, get out of the house quickly and call your gas company from a safe distance.
• Radon gas – produced by the radioactive decay of uranium, radon can be found in the soil, rocks, and even in the air. Outdoors it poses no danger, but in the confines of a basement it can build up to dangerous levels. Radon levels are very hit or miss in Western North Carolina, and radon is the second leading cause of lung cancer. Your home inspector can arrange for a radon inspection. If an inspection reveals high radon levels, have your home treated by a radon remediation expert.

Partially finished basements 

A partially finished basement is just what it sounds like. Part of it is bare, but another part may have some sort of living space, such as a game room, entertainment room, workshop, or even a home office space. It may have a bathroom, but not bedrooms. There might be some drywall, but the floor could be concrete with a drain in the middle.  One thing to consider seriously: If you are spending a lot of time in an unfinished basement, you need to be sure it is a safe environment. The problems mentioned above (mold, fumes, radon, etc.) need to be addressed before spending much time down there.

Finished Basements 

A finished Asheville basement can be anything from a large, open area with flooring, a ceiling and drywall, to a complete living area with bedrooms, a bathroom, and even a kitchen. For a finished basement to count as square footage in a North Carolina real estate listing (MLS), it must be considered “heated space.” However, even if it doesn’t count as heated square footage, a well-constructed finished basement can still add considerable value to a home. 

Finished basements are not as easy to inspect as bare basements. Drywall and flooring can cover up structural defects and signs of previous water damage. If intended as living quarters, it is essential to check for mold issues, air quality, and test for radon. When a home has a finished basement, a radon inspector will set the test there. However, for homes with unfinished basements, the inspector will set up the test above grade on the first floor. Whatever type of basement a home contains, it is always best to have it checked out thoroughly by a licensed home inspector to rule out serious issues.  

Call Peter Young Home Inspections 

Buying or selling a home? Never sign any contract without first getting a home inspection!  Call Asheville Home Inspector Peter Young, 828-808-4980, or click here to make an appointment today.

The post What you should know about Asheville basements appeared first on Peter Young Home Inspections.

Homes move like lightning in the hot Asheville real estate market.

A home inspection can have a significant effect on the sale of a home. If an inspection reveals life or property-threatening problems, it can even kill the deal. Or it can send the parties back to the bargaining table to renegotiate the price or convince the seller to make some needed repairs.

What is “reasonable and customary” regarding home inspections? What findings may be deal breakers? On the other hand, which items would be considered “nitpicky” for a buyer to demand? These questions may be have varying significance, depending upon whether we are in a buyer’s or seller’s market. If there is a glut of real estate for sale, then buyers can be as choosy as they wish. However, in tighter markets, such as the Asheville real estate market and surrounding and Buncombe County, listed homes can move at lightning speed, leaving buyers in more of a take-it-or-leave-it marketplace battlefield.

This being said, let’s take a look at what items are acceptable to ask sellers to fix if an inspection brings them to light.

Substantial home inspection problems

Termite tubes run through this board.

No matter the condition of the market, if an inspection reveals defects that are structural, mechanical, or environmental, it is reasonable for the buyer to request the seller to make repairs. This means issues that could prevent or restrict use of the home. Here’s a short list:

• Leaking roof or water intrusion at the home’s foundation
• Major drainage problems
• Mold problems
• Termites and other wood-destroying pests
• Electrical defects that create safety issues
• Wildlife in the attic (bats, squirrels, raccoons, possums, etc.)
• Well water or spring issues, such as inadequate pressure or volume of water
• Plumbing problems that interfere with use of the home, such as a backed up septic system or non-functioning toilets
• Lead paint (it’s a federal requirement for sellers to disclose any lead paint findings)

This list is by no means inclusive, but it represents issues that are reasonable and customary for buyers to ask sellers to handle previous to closing.

Minor issues might seem “nitpicky”

Don’t ask the seller to stain the deck.

As mentioned earlier, homes move quickly in the hot Asheville real estate market. In this environment, sellers may become irritated if they find your demands are focused on too many small issues. Let’s face it; if a listing has ten potential buyers standing in line, the seller has the luxury of grabbing the deal that seems most advantageous. To avoid being left in the dust, there are a number of demands that are best not to make. The following list is not all-inclusive, but is intended as a good guideline.

• Cosmetic issues. Is there a cracked tile in the backsplash behind the bathroom sink? Does a deck or rail need staining? Don’t ask the seller to fix those. You must ask yourself two questions before asking a seller to make a repair. One, if you or the seller walk away from the deal, is this a problem for which the next potential buyer would  demand action; and two, would this problem interfere with your ability to get financing on the home? If the answers are no, it’s probably best to bite the bullet and keep quiet about this particular issue.
• Cracks in the basement floor. Since concrete is a porous substance, it absorbs water and has a tendency to “settle.” Concrete floor cracks are not a structural problem, and are of little concern unless they are allowing water into the basement through the floor. However, cracks in basement walls present a more serious problem and should be inspected carefully.
• Repairs costing less than $100. There may be dozens of minor issues that need to be addressed, but home closings usually have a time frame in which to make those repairs. Don’t overwhelm the seller with a daunting list of requests, or he/she may just move on to the next offer.

Don’t ask the seller to fix small issues

Choose your battles wisely. Here are a few more minor issues that you should not to ask the seller to fix if you’re trying to buy in a hot market.

• 

  This outlet had water inside and was sparking.

  Non-functioning light switches or outlets.When it comes to switches and outlets, wires can become loose. It might be just a worn-out switch or outlet, however it may be indicative of a larger electrical problem. Your home inspector will determine if the electrical system is safe, or if there might be a more serious issue. Repairing a few old switches and outlets is usually inexpensive, so don’t insist on every switch working or looking like new. Wet areas (kitchens and bathrooms) should have GFCI outlets installed. However, many older homes don’t have them. Don’t stress over it. They are very easy to install by a qualified electrician.

• Cosmetic landscaping or small yard issues. While it’s important for a home to have “curb appeal,” you should not expect the seller to replenish the flower beds or trim trees as a condition of the sale. Nor should you ask the seller to level those few bricks in the garden path or remove the dandelions in the front yard – not unless you want to risk having your offer passed over.
• Loose fixtures, knobs, etc.If you find light fixtures, doorknobs, or even railings to be loose, this is some of the “small stuff” we’re always urged not to sweat. While a loose railing may be inconvenient or even unsafe, these kinds of problems can be solved most of the time by walking around with a few basic hand tools. Unless your inspector finds wood rot, decay, or major safety issues, it’s best to avoid asking the seller to take care of it.

Strike a balance

Know the difference between essential and non-essential repairs, and always keep the market in mind. In a “buyer’s market,” you have much more leeway to make demands of the seller. However, in a “seller’s market,” you don’t want to risk losing the sale by seeming too unreasonable, demanding, or nitpicky.

Buying or selling a home in the Asheville real estate market? Avoid unpleasant surprises! Don’t sign a contract before calling Asheville home inspector Peter Young. Click the orange button below to make an appointment.

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Damp crawlspaces are notorious breeding grounds for mold.

Last month we explored ways to avoid and fix water damage in your home. This time around we’ll discuss mold – what it is and some tips to keep it under control.

What is mold?

A member of the fungus family, mold is found everywhere in nature. Outdoors, mold is responsible for breaking down and digesting dead plants, trees, and even dead animals. Without mold the world would be piled to the sky with dead matter that could not decompose. So in the broader sense, mold is an important part of our ecosystem. Mold thrives in moisture and multiplies through tiny spores that float through the air. Everywhere you go, you’re exposed to mold. In small amounts it is generally harmless, but let it take root in your home and multiply out of control, mold spores can put your health at risk, especially if you are allergic or sensitive.

Mold in your home

Mold needs two things to survive and thrive: food and moisture. So what does mold eat? Nearly everything! Walls, carpets, glue under floors, furniture, drapery – if you can name it, then it’s likely that mold finds it yummy.

Since moisture is so important to mold’s lifecycle, you are most likely to find it in your home’s damp places such as bathrooms, basements, kitchens, laundry rooms, and crawl spaces.

Never leave wet clothes in a hamper!

Tips for mold control

Can you kill or eliminate all mold and spores in you home? The answer is no. However, since mold cannot grow without dampness, reducing moisture is the best way to keep mold growth in check. If you see mold in your house, it’s important to remove it, but if you do nothing to reduce or eliminate the dampness, mold will soon return. Here are some tips for the places in your home most susceptible to mold growth.

• Keep indoor humidity below 60%. If you have a central heat pump or A/C unit, this should not be a problem. Keep drain pans clean and dry in your HVAC system, or they can be a source of mold.
• No A/C or heat pump? Use a dehumidifier. Click here for some dehumidifier reviews.
• Keep your home warm when outside temps drop. Colder air holds less moisture, so wetness condenses on surfaces, providing ample fuel for mold growth.
• Dry damp or wet areas as quickly as possible (within 24 hours) to prevent mold growth. If moisture condenses on certain windows in your home, keep a towel handy to dry them off.
• Avoid leaks and seepage. The ground should slope away from your house at the rate of one inch per foot. If the ground slopes toward your house, you may need to hire the services of a grader to fix the problem.
• Increase air circulation in your home with ceiling fans, keep doors open between rooms, and keep furniture from sitting against walls.

Damp places in your home are mold breeders

Damp shower walls can breed mold.

In bathrooms:

• Use exhaust fans when showering, bathing, or washing. Be sure exhaust fans are vented to the outside, not the attic. If you have a window, open it when showering.
• Use area rugs, rather than wall-to-wall carpets. Area rugs should be washed and dried regularly.
• Never leave damp towels on the floor, and do not put them in the hamper until they are dry.
• Check for and repair any leaks around basins and tubs.In the laundry room:
• Vent your clothes dryer to the outside of the house.
• Keep the dryer vent clear of lint or other obstructions, and make sure there are no holes in it. Check and clean the vent once a year.
• Never leave damp clothes in a laundry basket or in the dryer.
• Check your washing machine hoses at least every six months. Replace them if they appear worn or frayed.

In the laundry room:

• Vent your clothes dryer to the outside of the house.
• Keep the dryer vent clear of lint or other obstructions, and make sure there are no holes in it. Check and clean the vent once a year.
• Never leave damp clothes in a laundry basket or in the dryer.
• Check your washing machine hoses at least every six months. Replace them if they appear worn or frayed.

In the kitchen:

• Always use your exhaust fan to remove moisture when cooking, washing dishes, or cleaning.
• Exhaust fans should be vented to the roof, not to the attic
• .Periodically check for leaks around the sink, refrigerator, icemaker, dishwasher, and other water sources.

To sum up, you’ll never get ALL the mold and spores out of your home, but you can keep them contained by practicing good moisture control. One more bit of advice: If you find large amounts of mold in your house, you may need the services of a professional to remove it. Don’t take chances with your health.

Read more about mold’s effect on health by clicking here.

Set up an appointment with Peter Young Home Inspections

Peter Young Home Inspections can recommend a licensed mold inspector in your area. Call today at 828-808-4980.

Need a comprehensive home inspection? Make an appointment with Asheville home inspector Peter Young by clicking the link below:

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