As a home inspector, I’ve been places you couldn’t pay me enough to go if it wasn’t literally my job. I’ve shimmied into attics hotter than the surface of the sun and squeezed behind furnaces that haven’t been cleaned since the Carter administration. But nothing—and I mean nothing—competes with the crawlspace.

In the hierarchy of “Places Homeowners Don’t Want to Go,” the crawlspace is the undisputed champion. It’s dark, it’s cramped, and it’s usually home to an unsettling number of spiders that look surprisingly like weightlifters. Because it’s unpleasant, the crawlspace suffers from a severe case of “out of sight, out of mind.” You shut that little access door, walk away, and pretend the space below your subfloor doesn’t exist.

Here is an uncomfortable truth I have to deliver to clients often: Ignoring your crawlspace is like ignoring a cavity. It doesn’t get better on its own; it just gets more expensive and painful to fix.

In a crawlspace, the root of nearly all evil is moisture. A wet crawlspace is an active petri dish trying to consume your house from the bottom up.

If you’ve been blissfully ignoring that damp dungeon beneath your feet, here are a few reasons why you need to grab a flashlight (or better yet, HIRE ME to grab a flashlight) and find out what’s going on down there.

The Stack Effect (Why Your House Smells Like Dirt)

Before we get to the disasters, let’s have a quick science lesson. Your house operates like a giant chimney. Hot air rises and escapes out of your attic. To replace that air, your house sucks in new air from the lowest points—usually the crawlspace.

Building scientists call this the “stack effect.” I call it “inhaling the swamp.” Is your crawlspace damp, moldy, and smelling like a wet dog that rolled in mushrooms? Guess what? That’s the air you are breathing in your living room. 

Up to 50% of the air on your first floor originated in your crawlspace. If that doesn’t gross you out, nothing will.

Problem #1: The Structural Buffet

Your house is likely made of wood. The wood used for framing, joists, and subflooring needs to be dry. When crawlspace humidity gets above 70%, that wood starts absorbing moisture like a sponge.

Do you know what loves damp wood? Rot fungus.

I’ve been in crawlspaces where I could stick my screwdriver handle-deep into a main support beam because it had the consistency of wet cardboard. When wood rots, it loses its structural integrity. This leads to sagging floors, doors that suddenly stick, and cracks in your drywall upstairs. In a worst-case scenario, the whole structure could come tumbling down like a house of cards!

If your kitchen floor has started to feel “bouncy” when you walk across it, it’s not because your home is morphing into a backyard party bounce house. It’s because the joists below are transforming into mulch.

Problem #2: The Pest Party

Water is life. Unfortunately, that applies to pests, too. A dry crawlspace is an inhospitable desert to bugs. A wet crawlspace is an all-inclusive resort.

Termites are attracted to moisture. They don’t just want wood; they want soft, damp wood that’s easy to chew. 

A wet crawlspace is practically rolling out the red carpet for them.

Furthermore, high moisture attracts camel crickets (also known as sprickets). If you’ve never encountered one, they look like a spider and a shrimp had a terrifying baby that jumps directly at your face when startled. They love damp environments. Drying out the crawlspace is the only way to evict them permanently.

Problem #3: The Mold Explosion

Mold is the four-letter word of real estate. Lenders consider mold a major risk to the property’s value and structural integrity, often requiring professional remediation and a clean inspection report before final loan approval. 

Mold needs three things to thrive: food (your wood framing), appropriate temperature (crawlspaces are warm and snuggly), and moisture.

If you have a damp crawlspace, you almost certainly have mold growth. It might look white and fuzzy, or black and patchy on the floor joists. 

Remember the stack effect? Those mold spores don’t stay downstairs. They hitch a ride on rising air currents and enter your living space, potentially aggravating allergies and asthma. If your house has a persistent, musty “old basement” smell that no amount of scented candles can mask, that eau de stank is likely coming from under the house.

Ignorance Is NOT bliss! Stop Ignoring It.

Look, I get it. You don’t want to go down there. It’s gross.

But if you do start to notice musty smells, cupping hardwood floors, high indoor humidity, or a sudden increase in creepy-crawlies, take heed. “Just open the vents in the summer” is actually terrible advice. In humid climates it brings more wet air in to condense on cool surfaces.

So, it’s time to move from “everything is ruined” to “here’s how we save the house.” In the world of home inspections, we generally look at a hierarchy of fixes depending on whether you have a minor dampness issue or a full-blown subterranean swamp.

Here is a breakdown of how to actually dry out the dungeon.

1. The Vapor Barrier (The “Must-Have” Minimum)

Think of a vapor barrier as a raincoat for your crawlspace floor. Even if the ground looks dry, the earth is constantly “exhaling” moisture. A vapor barrier, usually a heavy-duty plastic (polyethylene) sheeting, is laid over the soil to stop that moisture from rising.

• Standard Grade: Most builders throw down a 6-mil plastic sheet. It’s better than nothing, but it’s thin and tears if you so much as look at it funny.
• Pro Grade: We recommend 10-mil to 20-mil reinforced plastic. It’s tough enough to crawl on without ripping, and it stays in place.

2. Diversion and Drainage

If you have actual standing water after a rainstorm, a plastic sheet isn’t the answer. You’ll just have a very expensive indoor swimming pool under your house.

• Gutters and Downspouts: I can’t tell you how many “wet crawlspace” issues are actually just clogged gutter issues. If your downspouts dump water right next to the foundation, gravity will do the rest.
• Sump Pumps: If the water table is high or the terrain forces water toward your house, you need a sump pump. It’s a bucket in the ground with a pump that says, “Not today, water,” and flings it far away from the foundation.

Crawlspace Encapsulation (The Gold Standard)

This is the nuclear option, and it’s arguably the best thing you can do for your home’s health. Instead of just covering the floor, you seal the entire space like a Tupperware container.

What’s involved:

• Sealing the Vents: Close off those foundation vents that allow humid summer air to enter.
• Wall Liners: The heavy plastic doesn’t just sit on the floor; it’s taped and sealed several feet up the foundation walls.
• Insulation: Replacing old, fiberglass “pink stuff” (which acts like a moldy sponge) with rigid foam board on the walls.

Pro Tip: Never encapsulate your crawlspace without addressing drainage first. If you trap water behind your beautiful new plastic liners, you’re just creating a giant, hidden mold bag.

Dedicated Dehumidification

Once the space is sealed, you might need to manage the air. In that case, you can’t just use a $200 dehumidifier from a big-box store; it’ll burn out in six months or sooner trying to keep up. You need a commercial-grade, low-temperature dehumidifier specifically designed for crawlspaces. These units are costly, but they can pull gallons of water out of the air daily and drain automatically so you never have to empty a bucket.

Before you panic and buy a crate of industrial fans, get your crawlspace inspected. Let us brave the spider-gymnasts and assess the moisture levels. Your home’s foundation (and your lungs) will thank you.

Buying Or Selling A Home in WNC?

Avoid unpleasant surprises! Contact Asheville Home Inspector Peter Young before signing any contracts. Call (828) 808-4980, or click here to make an appointment.

The post Dungeon Down Under: A Wet Crawlspace Can Be Your Home’s Worst Nightmare appeared first on Peter Young Home Inspections.

Ah, home ownership. The American Dream. Visions of picket fences, manicured lawns, and warm summer weekends grilling on the backyard deck. What they don’t show you in glossy real estate brochures is the epic battle you’re about to wage against leaky faucets, rogue termite militias, and the terrifying threat of your HVAC going belly up in the middle of a record heat wave. 

Welcome, brave homeowner, to the glorious and always expensive world of home maintenance. But fear not, for we are here to arm you with the ultimate weapon: a budget! Because nothing says “adulting” like meticulously planning for things to break!

You Need a “Fun”d (It’s Not Fun, But We Can Pretend!)

Let’s be honest, nobody wants to think about their roof springing a leak during a deluge of biblical proportions or their water heater turning their basement into a scuba training center.

A dedicated home maintenance budget isn’t just smart; it’s your personal financial superhero, swooping in to save the day when disaster strikes (and it will, eventually).

Think of it as pre-emptive retail therapy for your house.

The Crystal Ball of Costs: Debunking Myths (and Embracing Rules)

Forecasting home maintenance costs can feel a bit like fortune telling. But take heart! Here are some sensible rules of thumb for your home maintenance budget that aren’t based on lunar cycles or planetary alignment.

The 1% to 4% Rule: This gem suggests you squirrel away 1% to 4% of your home’s value each year. So, if your humble abode is worth a cool $400,000, you’re looking at budgeting anywhere from $4,000 to $16,000 annually. Why the wide range? Because a brand-new build might just need a pat on the back and a fresh coat of paint, while a charming, century-old Victorian might demand a small fortune and an exorcist (for the moaning pipes, of course).

The Dollar-Per-Square-Foot Rule: Another crowd-pleaser suggests setting aside $1 to $5 per square foot. So, for a 2,500-square-footer, that’s $2,500 to $12,500. This rule acknowledges that more square footage often means more stuff to maintain, more walls to paint, and more nooks and crannies for critters to stake a claim.

Our best advice? Use both. It’s like having two slightly different magic eight balls; combine their wisdom for a surprisingly accurate (and less stressful) prediction. Aim for the higher end if your home is older, prone to dramatic tantrums, or located in a climate that finds “extreme weather events” entertaining.

What’s Eating Away At Your Home Maintenance Budget?

To truly master the maintenance beast, you need to understand its habits. Home maintenance costs generally fall into these aptly named categories:

Predictable Pests (Routine Maintenance): Minor annoyances, if ignored, become major headaches. Think of them as the tiny gremlins that demand attention. HVAC filter changes (unless you enjoy colonies of dust ogres populating your lungs), gutter cleaning (because nobody needs an unplanned waterfall), lawn care (unless you’re about to film a Tarzan movie), and pest control (because your home is for you, not a termite convention). These are usually manageable, but they can add up.

Unexpected Tantrums (Minor Repairs): Your toilet running like a marathoner? A leaky faucet dripping away your sanity and water bill? A mysterious crack in the drywall threatening to turn into a portal to another dimension? These are sudden, inconvenient, but generally fixable dramas. Keep a small stash of cash for these, because they willhappen. It’s like your house is a toddler, constantly surprising you with new ways to break stuff.

Budget-Busting Blockbusters (Major Replacements/Repairs): Ah, the big ones. The ones that make you gasp and check your retirement fund. A new roof, an HVAC system replacement, a hot water heater that kicks the bucket mid-shower. These are not a question of if, but of when. These blockbusters require a significant financial investment, usually at the most inopportune moment. Start saving for these yesterday.

“Holy Guacamole!” Moments (Emergency Fund Allocation): Despite your best intentions, sometimes your house decides to go rogue. A tree falls on your garage, a pipe bursts during a blizzard, or a stray meteorite redecorates your living room. This is where your dedicated emergency fund shines. It’s the ultimate “break glass in case of absolute chaos” fund, preventing you from needing to sell a kidney on the black market.

How to Tame the Beast: Chaos to Cash Flow

Become a Home Detective:Before you even think about budgeting, grab a flashlight and inspect your home from top to bottom. Are there suspicious stains on the ceiling? A strange hum from the furnace? 

Set Up a “Needy House Account”: Seriously, give it a fun name. “The Fund for Fixing Stuff That Breaks,” “My Home’s Therapy Fund,” “The Great Money Suck,” or whatever motivates you. Then, set up automated transfers. Out of sight, out of mind, until you really need it.

Prioritize Like a Pro: A leaky roof is urgent. A slightly chipped paint job, not so much. First fix what can cause further damage or pose safety risks. You can always tackle the cosmetic stuff when your budget cup is fat with extra cash.

Embrace Your Inner DIYer, but Use Caution: YouTube is your friend! Learn to change an air filter, re-caulk a leaky tub, or fix a running toilet. You’d be amazed at how much money you can save. But know your limits. Electrical work, major plumbing, or anything involving structural integrity? Call a professional, unless you want to star in an episode of “America’s Funniest Homeowner Fails!” 

Track Your Spending: Keep a running tab of every penny you spend on home maintenance. This isn’t just for masochists; it’s crucial data. It shows you where your money is really going and helps you refine your budget for next year. You might be surprised to find out how much that “small” garden project really cost you.

Annual Budget Re-enactments (Review and Adjust): Your home, like a teenager, is constantly evolving. What worked this year might not work next year. Review your budget annually. Did you spend more on HVAC this year than expected? Did you have to replace ancient kitchen appliances? Adjust accordingly. It’s an ongoing, ever-evolving saga.

The Take-Away

Your home maintenance budget isn’t a glamorous topic, and budgeting for it isn’t exactly a thrilling pastime. However, by facing it head-on with a solid financial plan, you transform what could be a source of stress into a plan for proud home ownership. So go forth, brave homeowner, conquer those leaks, battle those termite legions, and enjoy your beautifully maintained and financially secure abode. Your wallet and your sanity will thank you!

Buying or selling a home in WNC?

Avoid unpleasant surprises! Contact Asheville Home Inspector Peter Young before signing any contracts. Call (828) 808-4980, or click here to make an appointment.

The post Home Maintenance: How to Budget for the Inevitable (and Expensive) appeared first on Peter Young Home Inspections.

So, you’ve put an offer on a home, it’s been accepted, and you’re practically measuring for curtains. Then comes the home inspection – the moment that taps you on the shoulder and whispers, “Hey, buddy, your dream house has secrets!”

Don’t get the wrong idea. Home inspectors are Superheroes 🦸🏻 in sensible shoes, armed with flashlights and moisture meters. But sometimes, their findings can make your heart do a little tap dance. 

Here are six common culprits inspectors might unearth, along with a dose of what-to-do, and a sprinkle of “try not to picture the worst-case scenario.”

1) The Roof’s Having a Bad Hair Day (Missing or Damaged Shingles)

The “Uh Oh” Factor: Finding bald spots or cracked shingles can feel like your future home is sporting a bad comb-over. What’s hiding beneath? It may foreshadow potential leaks, and nobody wants a surprise indoor waterfall.

What to Do: Don’t immediately envision Noah’s Ark pulling up to your curb. Did your home inspector see any signs of water damage inside the house? A few missing shingles might be a simple fix. Get a roofer to assess the damage and provide a quote. You can then negotiate with the seller for repairs or a price reduction. Think of it as asking for a discount on a slightly balding, but still structurally sound, head. But if the whole roof is shot, full replacement will be costly!

2) The Foundation’s Not All It’s Cracked Up to Be

The “Uh Oh” Factor: Seeing cracks in the foundation can send shivers down your spine. Does your future abode have a “split personality?” Are you about to live in a mini geological fault line?

What to Do: Take a few deep breaths! Hairline cracks are usually just a sign of normal settling. However, wider or horizontal cracks need attention. A structural engineer can evaluate the severity. Again, this is negotiation territory. Maybe the seller can contribute to the repair, or you factor it into your offer. Run if the floor is slanted or uneven. You don’t need your furniture sliding downhill every night.

3) The Electrical System is Stuck in the Disco Era (Outdated Wiring)

The “Uh Oh” Factor: Discovering knob-and-tube wiring or improperly installed wiring isn’t ideal for powering your collection of smart appliances. It can be a fire hazard, and it could make your insurance company give you the stink eye!

What to Do: Modernizing the electrical system is a significant but necessary upgrade. Get quotes from licensed electricians. This is a serious safety concern, so don’t skimp. You’ll likely need to negotiate with the seller, as this isn’t a “slap some tape on it” situation. It’s essential for modern living. And while “Burning Down the House,” may be one of your favorite retro songs, you never want that to happen IRL!

4) The Plumbing Doubles As a Sprinkler System

The “Uh Oh” Factor: Finding drips, damp spots, or evidence of past leaks can make you wonder if your water bill will rival the national debt. Hidden leaks can also lead to mold – the unwelcome house guest that refuses to leave.

What to Do: Small leaks might be easy fixes, but persistent or hidden ones need professional attention. A plumber can diagnose and repair the issue. Negotiate with the seller for these repairs, especially if there’s evidence of water damage. Nobody wants to purchase a home that’s slowly turning into an indoor swamp.

5) Surprise Roommates (Pest Infestations)

The “Uh Oh” Factor:Discovering evidence of termites, rodents, or other unwanted critters can make you feel like you’re starring in your own personal horror movie. 

Nobody wants to share their living space with things that chew on wood or leave little “presents.” 💩

What to Do: A professional pest control company is your new best friend! Get an inspection and treatment plan. This is not something to negotiate lightly.

Wood destroying organisms can affect the home’s structural integrity, and mortgage lenders may insist on proof that the problem was resolved. And try not to have nightmares about tiny landlords demanding rent in the walls.

6) The HVAC System Is Younger Than the Mountains, but Older Than the Trees

The “Uh Oh” Factor: That ancient furnace or AC unit might still be chugging along, but it’s likely costing a fortune in energy bills and could break down any minute. It’s the great grandpa of appliances, and while you respect its longevity, you’re pretty sure it won’t handle another summer.

What to Do: Get the system inspected by an HVAC professional. They can assess its lifespan and efficiency. You can negotiate for a price reduction to account for the eventual (and likely sooner rather than later) replacement. Think of it as getting a heads-up that you will need to budget for a new set of “lungs” for your house.

The Bottom Line and a Gentle Nudge to Not Panic

Finding issues during a home inspection is common. It’s what the process is for! It gives you valuable information and the opportunity to negotiate. Don’t let every “uh oh” moment send you into a tailspin. Gather information, get professional opinions, and work with your real estate agent to find a solution that works for you. 

Remember, even the most charming houses have their quirks – it’s just about figuring out if those quirks are manageable or deal-breakers. Good luck, and may your future home be everything you dream!

Buying or selling a home in Western North Carolina?

Avoid unpleasant surprises! Contact Asheville Home Inspector Peter Young before signing any contracts. Call (828) 808-4980, or click here to make an appointment.

The post Six Shades of “Uh Oh”: Common Home Inspection Issues (Don’t Panic!) appeared first on Peter Young Home Inspections.

Home inspection is a must for home buyers before signing closing papers. Reliable inspection results can mean the difference between finding the home of your dreams or walking away from a money-pit nightmare. Some folks think they can skip inspection to hurry things along. A word to the wise: DON’T! A home inspection can uncover a home’s real value. It may reveal costly, needed repairs that detract from a that value or even call off the deal. Also, an inspection report can give you leverage to negotiate for a lower price on a home that’s facing serious repairs.

What should you be looking for in a home inspection report? Inspections may uncover small defects or dangerous and costly problems. Some call them red flags or deal-breakers. Let’s take a look at some of the more serious issues an inspection may reveal, beginning with a home’s exterior.

Start at the bottom

Let’s start with the foundation. This is the supporting structure for the entire house. Trouble with the foundation isn’t easy to fix, and it’s usually expensive to repair.

Uneven areas, sunken areas, or major cracks in the wall are telltale signs that the foundation is shifting.

Other signs are misaligned or sticking windows or doors, gaps between walls and windows or doors, sagging or slanted floors, or the musty smell of mold in the basement or floor space.

Click here for a look at foundation problems and potential repair costs.

Up on the roof

Roof problems can be serious dealbreakers. Depending on the size of the home and the type of roof, replacement can cost between $6,500 and $11,000 on small to average sized homes, or even as high as $80,000 on a supersized mansion. An inspector will assess the condition of the roof. Does it look well-maintained? Are there damaged or missing shingles or flattened spots where water pools?

Some homeowners may attempt to save money by doing roof replacement themselves. We don’t recommend that unless you have the know-how and are experienced working with power tools on a ladder or on a slope. You might save between $2 and $7 a foot on professional labor, but if you do it wrong, you could end up with serious damage to the roof, the attic, the eaves, and framing, even resulting in mold, water damage, and structural problems.

Check out this article on roof replacement costs.

Those darn pests!

Wood-destroying insects can wreak havoc on a home. For example, if poorly-installed support beams are in direct contact with the ground, termites may be gnawing away at posts that support floors or decks.

Not counting the cost of termite extermination, repairing termite damage can be an expensive affair. Costs range from $600 to $3,000, with a national average of $1,800.

Doors and windows

Doors and windows should open and close smoothly, but more importantly, they should seal tightly and keep the elements out to avoid costly energy bills, keep pests outside, and protect the home from water damage. Defective or worn-out doors and windows are replaceable, but the work can be costly. Much of the time the whole door frame needs to be removed and refitted, leading to stucco or siding repair and painting. Also, if a door is rotting out, that may be a sign of water damage, which can be another costly repair.

In the gutter

Damaged or non-functioning gutters can lead to serious water damage on your roof, eaves, walls, and even a home’s foundation. Gutters should be properly connected to the roof with no evidence of leaks, and water should flow AWAY from the home’s foundation.

Again, depending upon the size of your roof, you can expect to pay from $600 to $8,000, with an average of $2,000 for popular materials. If you need to replace old gutters, add in about $200 to tear down and dispose of the old ones.

Click here to learn more about gutters and costs.

Next we’ll look at some potential red flags inside the house.

Electrical issues

These can be serious inspection red flags. Many homes built between 1965 and 1972 were wired with aluminum instead of copper. Aluminum wiring can be a fire hazard. The U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission (CPSC) reports that homes with aluminum wiring are 55 times more likely to have “fire hazard conditions” than homes wired with copper.

Replacing a home’s wiring can be a costly endeavor. Depending on the size of your home, the total tab can run as high as $30,000 or more. However, failing to address rewiring can be even costlier in the long run, especially in the event of a fire.

Insulation and asbestos

You might think asbestos problems are so yesterday, but you’d be surprised how common it is in homes built prior to 1980. It may even be found in some popcorn ceilings (remember those?).

Removal requires expensive, professional assistance. Asbestos is a dangerous carcinogen to your lungs, so never attempt to remove it yourself.

Many older houses have poor or practically non-existent insulation. Without costly remediation, the owners of these homes can look forward to many years of high heating and cooling bills.

The pipes, the pipes are calling

Some plumbing issues have easy fixes, like replacing the flapper on a toilet or fixing a leaky faucet. What about replacing pipes that are uninsulated and burst in freezing temperatures? That will set you back some! Don’t overlook lead pipes, banned in the US in 1986, but are found fairly often in homes built prior to that.

Replacing a home’s pipes will thin your wallet! To replace the plumbing in an existing structure, expect to pay between $50 and $200 per hour for labor plus the cost of materials. A typical 2,000-square-foot home averages between $3,000 and $16,000.

Find out more about pipe replacement costs.

Before you buy a home, we advise getting a video septic or sewer inspection, and be sure to scope the pipes that lead from the house to spot problems like tree roots breaking through pipes or clogged spots where water can’t drain properly.

Appliances

Outdated ovens, dishwashers, or refrigerators are not serious issues, especially in hot sellers’ markets. But watch out for trouble with furnaces, boilers, HVAC systems and water heaters. They can be very costly to replace. And if these are poorly-maintained gas appliances, they can emit lethal doses of carbon monoxide.

Mold

Mold and water leaks are common companions. Neither condition is desirable Some molds are relatively harmless and can be fixed fairly simply. However, keep in mind that if you don’t fix the water problem, mold will return soon enough. Other types of mold are known to cause serious respiratory issues, particularly for folks with asthma or allergies.

Mold must be addressed before you move into a home, and if the problem is widespread in areas of the house, then it may be time for some negotiating the contract.

Some say there are few problems revealed by inspection that are insurmountable, but some of the ones we discussed above might be dealbreakers or, at the very least, catalysts for some serious price negotiations.

Buying or selling a home?

Avoid unpleasant surprises! Contact Asheville Home Inspector Peter Young before signing any contracts. Call (828) 808-4980, or click here to make an appointment.

The post Home inspection “red flags” appeared first on Peter Young Home Inspections.

Your home is a huge investment, and not just for its purchase price. Regular maintenance and repairs add up over time, but are necessary to retain your home’s highest value. One thing you don’t need is extensive damage from wood-destroying insects! Before you purchase a home, it’s best to find out if there has been a previous infestation, and whether current conditions are conducive for a reinfestation. Always get a home inspection before signing the purchase agreement.

Let’s take a look at the types of insects that may be eating your home and what to do about them. We’ll look at termites, carpenter bees, carpenter ants, and wood-boring beetles. You don’t want any of these chewing on your house.

The award for most destructive goes to…

Termites are the most destructive wood-destroying insects. Their nests may be outside your home, but their appetite for cellulase-based food sources may lure them into your home to feed on wood structures. Termites break down the cellulase in wood. It’s their number one delicacy. Trouble is, they can be happily chewing away at your wood for years before you begin to notice the damage.

Since your roofing structure is made of wood, extensive termite damage can cause it to collapse, exposing your home to rain, wind, or snow. The cost of repair can be devastating.

Termites sometimes live under your house, eating away at wood that supports floors above your crawl space. A properly-constructed home should not have wood-to-ground contact. Wood-to-ground supports for subfloors or decks are a prime entryway for termites. When wood is used for support, it should be encased in concrete footers to separate it from the ground. Nor should wood supports be in direct contact with subfloors. One solution is to use steel wood-to-wood caps.

Signs of infestation

Just because you haven’t noticed termites, that doesn’t mean they’re not your housemates. It’s wise to have your home inspected every few years. While most home inspectors are not certified to identify specific wood-destroying insects, they can point out some tell-tale signs and refer you to a certified pest-control specialist. Here’s what the pros look for:

• Mud-like deposits clinging to wood surfaces
• Mud tubes or tunnels that link a ground nest to your homes wooden structure
• Evidence of tunnels in wood or tiny holes
• Buckling paint on wood exteriors
• Discolored drywall that resembles water damage
• Small piles of tiny wings on surfaces

A good offense

The best defense against termites is a good offense. Begin by eliminating conditions that are conducive to infestations, such as:

• Debris piles underneath or around the structure
• Planter boxes attached to or touching structure
• Insufficient ventilation
• Wood-to-ground contact
• Mulch touching structure
• Wood pile in contact or too close to structure
• Wood rot
• Excessive moisture

Click here to see a video of conducive conditions.

Carpenter ants

There’s an internet joke where someone is hearing the song “Close To You,” coming from the ground. He exclaims, “Oh, no! Carpenter ants!” 

That’s funny, but finding carpenter ants in your home is dead serious.

Some people mistake swarming (winged) carpenter ants for termites. There are noticeable differences. In the photo at left, the top drawing is a termite, and the bottom drawing is a carpenter ant.

Carpenter ants have a noticeable waist, elbowed antennae, and two sets of wings that are of different lengths. Termite have no visible waist, straight antennae, and all four wings are equal in size.

Carpenter ants don’t eat wood like termites. They will excavate dead and damp wood and dig tunnels in which to nest. If left unrepaired, damp wood will succumb to dry rot, creating the perfect environment for carpenter ants. 

If you see winged carpenter ants in your home, there is likely a nest nearby. Like termites, the winged ones are mating. The large ones that look like wasps are queens looking for a new place to make a nest. Now would be a good time to contact a pest control service.

Carpenter bees

Carpenter bees do not eat wood, but they drill circular holes inside the wood to live in it. Many homeowners will discover carpenter bees nesting in frames, eaves, or on the wooden sides of buildings. The bees are large, and the males will swoop at you to scare you off, but only the females can sting, but they usually won’t bother unless you stick your fingers in their holes.

Carpenter bees pose a threat to houses, because they weaken the structural integrity of the wood after years of boring holes. Also, carpenter bee larvae usually live inside the holes, and woodpeckers throw fuel on the fire by pecking and enlarging the nesting holes to eat the larvae. 

One way to keep carpenter bees away is to paint or stain all your wood surfaces. Carpenter bees don’t seem to like paints, stains, or varnishes.

Powder post beetles

These critters are second to termites in regard to the kind of damage they can do to your home. They deposit their larvae in wood around your home, and their number one delicacy is the cellulose in wood fibers.

You might see signs of a powder post beetle infestation by the powdery wood residue they leave behind, resembling fine sand. 

Powder post beetle larvae are born inside the wood and may happily munch on it for up to five years, leaving it brittle and unfit for structural support. By the time you spot them, damage to your home and roof may be devastating. That’s why the prudent thing to do is schedule an inspection with a certified pest inspector yearly.

An ounce of prevention

You know what “they” say an ounce of prevention is worth. The best way to protect your home and your roof is to arrange for professional inspections at least every two years.

Get a home inspector to check for signs of wood damage. Depending on the findings, the inspector may recommend a licensed pest control inspector to make further determinations.

The best strategy against wood-destroying insects is to be proactive. It’s the keep you keeping your home safe for many years to come.

Set up a pest inspection

Peter Young Home Inspections can arrange for a pest inspection. Click here to make an appointment.

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Everyone knows that you need to get a thorough, professional home inspection before purchasing a home. Sometimes it’s all smooth sailing, but there are times when inspectors zero in on serious issues. Are these issues “deal breakers?” That depends on how serious (and expensive) they are, but it also can depend upon the direction of the real estate market at the time.

In areas where there’s a glut of homes, buyers have a lot of leeway in demanding that sellers make fixes before the sale. However, in a hot sellers’ market like Western North Carolina is in currently, sellers know that buyers can’t be too choosy and are more reluctant to agree to expensive fixes. But there are some issues that need to be fixed before lenders will agree to finance the property. Let’s look at some of the more serious issues that may arise in a home inspection.

Foundation issues

Nearly all houses have some kind of “settling.” Over time, a home’s weight causes it to settle into the ground. This can create hairline cracks in the basement or even in walls. Most of these small cracks are not significant, but larger cracks can indicate a serious problem. 

For example, a quarter inch crevasse traversing a basement wall from floor to ceiling might indicate a serious problem. A house supported on concrete blocks is an accident waiting to happen. Likewise with slanted floors. If the house has settled too much, it may result in structural weakness. If cracks are large, the inspector may recommend a structural engineer to decide whether they are dangerous. If the home has serious structural issues, this is likely to be very expensive, and until it is fixed, banks may not offer financing on the structure.

Water damage

When there is standing water in the basement or evidence of water stains elsewhere in a house, inspectors hear alarm bells. While a small water stain on the ceiling may look like a simple fix, it could be evidence of a wider problem. Water works its way downward, so a stain in the basement might be caused by a leak in the roof. 

The trouble could be the roof or skylights, drain tile cracks, or a serious issue with the home’s plumbing system. The cause should be determined before buying the home. Water intrusion in a home can lead to another serious issue, and that is mold.

Black mold

It’s not unusual to find surface mold in poorly ventilated bathrooms, but black mold in a basement or crawl space is a far more serious issue. Black mold can cause allergies, asthma, and other serious health issues. If mold is widespread, the cost of remediation can be very expensive.

First you must bear the cost of removal, and then the added costs of making sure it doesn’t return. Serious mold issues might be due to foundation cracks allowing water to seep in, or it could be caused by roof leaks or plumbing failures. Any of those three causes require expensive fixes.

Antiquated or faulty electrical systems

Pre-1960 homes may have an antiquated “knob and tube” electrical system. In most areas, those systems don’t meet local codes, which means the home’s entire electrical system will have to be replaced. In some cases, walls may have to come down in order to do the wiring repairs.

Speaking of wiring, old wiring may be a serious fire hazard, and replacing it can set you back many thousands of dollars. Then there’s aluminum wiring, which was discontinued in Western North Carolina after 1974. Aluminum wires can overheat, resulting in fire damage. If a home is found to have aluminum wiring, it will need to be replaced.

Vermin infestations

There are vermin, and then there are vermin! It’s not too serious if an inspector finds some evidence that there were mice in the home. Most homes will host mice from time to time, and the owner can put out traps or even get a few cats to remedy the situation.

Termites are another story entirely. Termites show up when moisture gets into wood in your home, and they can literally eat you out of house and home, as the saying goes.

Getting rid of them can be difficult and very costly. First you must kill them, then you must replace the wood they destroyed, and finally you must keep an eye on the area to be sure they don’t come back. Small areas can be spot treated, but larger infestations may require tenting the house, and this is a costly endeavor.

Inspectors may find other pests, such as squirrels, bats, and raccoons. They will need to be removed by professionals, and then their means of entry must be sealed up. This requires some repair, but is far less of an issue than termites.

These are some of the more serious issues home inspectors find. Are they deal breakers? They can be. If they prevent lenders from financing the property, they will have to be fixed, but in a hot sellers’ market it may be more difficult to get sellers to make these repairs. However, as most realtors will tell you, “Everything is negotiable.” It’s always an issue of what each side is willing to compromise to make the deal happen.

Buying or selling a home?

Avoid unpleasant surprises! Contact Asheville Home Inspector Peter Young before signing any contracts. Call (828) 808-4980, or click here to make an appointment.

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Once upon a time, Asheville basements were little more than overgrown utility areas for storing unsightly items, housing the furnace, electrical panels, and maybe even a washer and dryer. In these times, with above ground living space getting so expensive, basements have seen a transformation into living spaces, such as rec rooms with pool tables, home theater systems, or even full bedrooms and bathrooms. This may be a convenient and inexpensive way to claim more living space in your home, but if some common basement problems are not overcome first, occupants of these spaces may be putting their health at risk. Even if you don’t use your basement as a living space, some of the problems down there can affect the rest of the house. This is why a basement inspection by a licensed home inspector is essential. There are three types of basements: 

• Unfinished
• Partially finished
• Finished 

With some variations, the same or similar problems can exist in all three.

Unfinished basements

An unfinished basement is an old-school, bare bones concrete room with no drywall, flooring, or furniture. It might be a laundry room, Dad’s workshop, or a creepy, musty storage room. Even though an unfinished basement does not count as square footage in a real estate transaction, home inspectors are required to inspect them and report any uncovered defects. Since unfinished Asheville basements have bare concrete walls, it is relatively easy for an inspector to spot a variety of issues. Here are some common problems. 

Mold & Mildew 

A stale and musty odor is a sign of water intrusion in a basement. The odor is from mold, and it means the basement is not dry. Eliminating the odor means cleaning and drying the walls, woodwork, and whatever you have stored down there. But you can’t stop there; you must find and eradicate the source of the moisture. If your land slopes toward your house, moisture intrusion will always be a problem in your basement. If you get standing water down there, you will need to install a sump pump. If it just always feels and smells moist, perhaps a dehumidifier will do. 

White residual deposits

Also called efflorescence, white residual deposits are found in basements that have water issues. The white residue is not a health risk of itself, but it can be an indicator of cracks in the foundation or walls in an unfinished basement. Cracks in the walls and floor may be superficial, but they also could be a problematic source of water intrusion. Your home inspector can determine whether the cracks are cosmetic or structural. 

Structural Defects 

Problems with walls, ceilings, and beams are easy to spot in an unfinished basement. Shoddy or incomplete joists can cause problems in the floors above. Past or present water issues can cause significant rot in wood joists, which in turn can create structural problems. 

Pest Infestations 

Roaches, ants, termites, and rodents may find a damp basement attractive. If the problem is moisture-related, it will not go away without drying up and eliminating the source of moisture. If you see signs of pests in your Asheville basement, your home inspector can arrange for a pest inspection.   

Dangerous fumes 

Basements can be contaminated with hazardous fumes. These are caused by several factors: 

• Stored solvents – since basements are used as storage spaces for household chemicals, such as paint, cleaning supplies, and solvents, be sure none of these are leaking. Prolonged exposure to chemical fumes can be dangerous to your health.
• Carbon monoxide – many homes have their furnaces in the basement. This should be inspected regularly for safe operation. When not maintained, furnaces can leak deadly carbon monoxide. Keep a carbon monoxide detector in your basement and one at the top of the stairs where you can hear it if it goes off. If the alarm sounds, get out of the house quickly and call your gas company from a safe distance.
• Radon gas – produced by the radioactive decay of uranium, radon can be found in the soil, rocks, and even in the air. Outdoors it poses no danger, but in the confines of a basement it can build up to dangerous levels. Radon levels are very hit or miss in Western North Carolina, and radon is the second leading cause of lung cancer. Your home inspector can arrange for a radon inspection. If an inspection reveals high radon levels, have your home treated by a radon remediation expert.

Partially finished basements 

A partially finished basement is just what it sounds like. Part of it is bare, but another part may have some sort of living space, such as a game room, entertainment room, workshop, or even a home office space. It may have a bathroom, but not bedrooms. There might be some drywall, but the floor could be concrete with a drain in the middle.  One thing to consider seriously: If you are spending a lot of time in an unfinished basement, you need to be sure it is a safe environment. The problems mentioned above (mold, fumes, radon, etc.) need to be addressed before spending much time down there.

Finished Basements 

A finished Asheville basement can be anything from a large, open area with flooring, a ceiling and drywall, to a complete living area with bedrooms, a bathroom, and even a kitchen. For a finished basement to count as square footage in a North Carolina real estate listing (MLS), it must be considered “heated space.” However, even if it doesn’t count as heated square footage, a well-constructed finished basement can still add considerable value to a home. 

Finished basements are not as easy to inspect as bare basements. Drywall and flooring can cover up structural defects and signs of previous water damage. If intended as living quarters, it is essential to check for mold issues, air quality, and test for radon. When a home has a finished basement, a radon inspector will set the test there. However, for homes with unfinished basements, the inspector will set up the test above grade on the first floor. Whatever type of basement a home contains, it is always best to have it checked out thoroughly by a licensed home inspector to rule out serious issues.  

Call Peter Young Home Inspections 

Buying or selling a home? Never sign any contract without first getting a home inspection!  Call Asheville Home Inspector Peter Young, 828-808-4980, or click here to make an appointment today.

The post What you should know about Asheville basements appeared first on Peter Young Home Inspections.

Just like nature, your home flows with the seasons. Each season has a unique set of tasks that help keep things looking and working their best. Planning routine home maintenance tasks for the right time of year is the smartest way to stay on top of things and still leave time for the things you want to do. This second installment looks at the  chores of summer.

Outdoors

Oh, the sweetnessof the wet garden 

Summer heat may be great for splashing in the pool or trips to the beach, but it can do a number on your garden. Your plants need lots of water during those hot summer days. 

It’s a good practice to water early in the day so the heat doesn’t evaporate the water before it soaks into your thirsty plants. Don’t get carried away; you don’t want to drown your foliage. It’s better to give your plants a hearty soaking three times a week, rather than a light watering every day. This will keep your green friends hydrated and happy. Your yard and landscape There’s nothing like a bright, green lawn to give your home curb appeal and make your neighbors happy. How often should you cut it? In the height of summer growing season it’s better to cut it more frequently in smaller increments than to wait until it’s really high and giving it a severe hacking. 

Common wisdom dictates taking no more than one third of the height of the grass blade at a single mowing. That means set your mower at the highest setting to keep your lawn healthy and strong. So a weekly schedule in the height of summer growing season is a sure bet to keep roots healthy, maximize sun exposure, and discourage the kinds of lawn pests that thrive in overgrown grass. While you’re out there, check out your flower beds. Deadhead the flowers that have begun to shrivel up. Not only will that keep your beds orderly and tidy, but it encourages additional growth and blossoms, too.

Your yard and landscape

There’s nothing like a bright, green lawn to give your home curb appeal and make your neighbors happy. How often should you cut it? In the height of summer growing season it’s better to cut it more frequently in smaller increments than to wait until it’s really high and giving it a severe hacking. 

Common wisdom dictates taking no more than one third of the height of the grass blade at a single mowing. That means set your mower at the highest setting to keep your lawn healthy and strong. So a weekly schedule in the height of summer growing season is a sure bet to keep roots healthy, maximize sun exposure, and discourage the kinds of lawn pests that thrive in overgrown grass. While you’re out there, check out your flower beds. Deadhead the flowers that have begun to shrivel up. Not only will that keep your beds orderly and tidy, but it encourages additional growth and blossoms, too.

A sprinkling of home-made rain 

Unless the summer is a rainy one, chances are good you will need to water your lawn regularly. Do you have sprinklers? Make sure they’re in good working order. Take a stroll around the yard and make sure the sprinkler heads are all standing at attention. Then take another walk around and ensure that all of the sprinklers are working, and that they’re not blocked by overgrown foliage. Replace any that aren’t working, or call a plumber to do it if you’re not handy with tools. Set the timers and take note if they are still working. How often? Like your garden, your grass appreciates a few good soakings each week, rather than a little bit every day. 

Stay cool in the pool 

A clean pool is a happy pool. Keep a skimming net handy to remove leaves and debris from the water. Keep algae in check with twice-monthly side scrubbing. Keep the filter basket clean and check your chemical levels at least weekly. Keep your pool area safe with child-resistant gates. Always keep those gates closed, even if you don’t have children. A closed gate will help to keep the neighbors’ kids safe. 

Keeping up the façade 

Summer is a great time to paint your house or stain your deck. The warm temperatures will help the finishes dry quickly.

Indoors

A positive spin 

Which way should your ceiling fans be spinning during the warm months? The correct answer is counterclockwise, which pushes the air down from the ceiling, creating a cooling breeze. Most fans have a button that lets you set the spin direction. Keep them counterclockwise in the warmer months and clockwise in the cooler months. 

Keep a lean, clean air machine 

If you’re running your A/C a lot during the warm summer months, check the filters monthly, and clean or replace them if needed.   Dirty filters make your system work harder, costing you more money and possibly shortening the life of the system. So be sure to keep those filters clean.

Something bugging you? 

You’re not alone in your love of warm weather. Insects and other pests love it, too, and they might just fancy your home. Ants, carpenter bees, termites, mice, and even bats might decide to call your house their home. The best defense is a good offense. Seal up holes and cracks where mice and insects can get inside. Keep your kitchen counters clean and free of crumbs and food residue.

Ant infestations can be treated with bait traps and spray, but termites are more serious and require the aid of professional exterminators. If mice or roaches are a continuing problem, you might want to consider an annual contract with a pest control company. However, this will expose you to chemicals. If you are sensitive, ask the company about natural alternatives. It’s a good idea to look up in your attic every few weeks to make sure nothing has taken up residence there.

Common attic residents may include mice, raccoons, or bats. If you find these, ask a professional to take care of it. Attics are cramped, dangerous places. You don’t want to end up falling through the ceiling. 

Think ahead  

Plan now for fall and winter home improvement projects. The contractors are up to their ears in work during the summer. If you want to book them for such items as bathroom or kitchen renovations, get on their fall or winter schedules. 

As you can see, the home tasks for summer aren’t so overwhelming. There’s plenty of time to gather friends around the pool and toss a few steaks on the barbie! Next month, in part 3, we’ll explore the home tasks of autumn.

Call Peter Young Home Inspections 

Buying or selling a home? Never sign any contract without first getting a home inspection!  Call Asheville Home Inspector Peter Young, 828-808-4980, or click the link below to make an appointment today.

The post A Home for All Seasons Part 2: Summer appeared first on Peter Young Home Inspections.

Homes move like lightning in the hot Asheville real estate market.

A home inspection can have a significant effect on the sale of a home. If an inspection reveals life or property-threatening problems, it can even kill the deal. Or it can send the parties back to the bargaining table to renegotiate the price or convince the seller to make some needed repairs.

What is “reasonable and customary” regarding home inspections? What findings may be deal breakers? On the other hand, which items would be considered “nitpicky” for a buyer to demand? These questions may be have varying significance, depending upon whether we are in a buyer’s or seller’s market. If there is a glut of real estate for sale, then buyers can be as choosy as they wish. However, in tighter markets, such as the Asheville real estate market and surrounding and Buncombe County, listed homes can move at lightning speed, leaving buyers in more of a take-it-or-leave-it marketplace battlefield.

This being said, let’s take a look at what items are acceptable to ask sellers to fix if an inspection brings them to light.

Substantial home inspection problems

Termite tubes run through this board.

No matter the condition of the market, if an inspection reveals defects that are structural, mechanical, or environmental, it is reasonable for the buyer to request the seller to make repairs. This means issues that could prevent or restrict use of the home. Here’s a short list:

• Leaking roof or water intrusion at the home’s foundation
• Major drainage problems
• Mold problems
• Termites and other wood-destroying pests
• Electrical defects that create safety issues
• Wildlife in the attic (bats, squirrels, raccoons, possums, etc.)
• Well water or spring issues, such as inadequate pressure or volume of water
• Plumbing problems that interfere with use of the home, such as a backed up septic system or non-functioning toilets
• Lead paint (it’s a federal requirement for sellers to disclose any lead paint findings)

This list is by no means inclusive, but it represents issues that are reasonable and customary for buyers to ask sellers to handle previous to closing.

Minor issues might seem “nitpicky”

Don’t ask the seller to stain the deck.

As mentioned earlier, homes move quickly in the hot Asheville real estate market. In this environment, sellers may become irritated if they find your demands are focused on too many small issues. Let’s face it; if a listing has ten potential buyers standing in line, the seller has the luxury of grabbing the deal that seems most advantageous. To avoid being left in the dust, there are a number of demands that are best not to make. The following list is not all-inclusive, but is intended as a good guideline.

• Cosmetic issues. Is there a cracked tile in the backsplash behind the bathroom sink? Does a deck or rail need staining? Don’t ask the seller to fix those. You must ask yourself two questions before asking a seller to make a repair. One, if you or the seller walk away from the deal, is this a problem for which the next potential buyer would  demand action; and two, would this problem interfere with your ability to get financing on the home? If the answers are no, it’s probably best to bite the bullet and keep quiet about this particular issue.
• Cracks in the basement floor. Since concrete is a porous substance, it absorbs water and has a tendency to “settle.” Concrete floor cracks are not a structural problem, and are of little concern unless they are allowing water into the basement through the floor. However, cracks in basement walls present a more serious problem and should be inspected carefully.
• Repairs costing less than $100. There may be dozens of minor issues that need to be addressed, but home closings usually have a time frame in which to make those repairs. Don’t overwhelm the seller with a daunting list of requests, or he/she may just move on to the next offer.

Don’t ask the seller to fix small issues

Choose your battles wisely. Here are a few more minor issues that you should not to ask the seller to fix if you’re trying to buy in a hot market.

• 

  This outlet had water inside and was sparking.

  Non-functioning light switches or outlets.When it comes to switches and outlets, wires can become loose. It might be just a worn-out switch or outlet, however it may be indicative of a larger electrical problem. Your home inspector will determine if the electrical system is safe, or if there might be a more serious issue. Repairing a few old switches and outlets is usually inexpensive, so don’t insist on every switch working or looking like new. Wet areas (kitchens and bathrooms) should have GFCI outlets installed. However, many older homes don’t have them. Don’t stress over it. They are very easy to install by a qualified electrician.

• Cosmetic landscaping or small yard issues. While it’s important for a home to have “curb appeal,” you should not expect the seller to replenish the flower beds or trim trees as a condition of the sale. Nor should you ask the seller to level those few bricks in the garden path or remove the dandelions in the front yard – not unless you want to risk having your offer passed over.
• Loose fixtures, knobs, etc.If you find light fixtures, doorknobs, or even railings to be loose, this is some of the “small stuff” we’re always urged not to sweat. While a loose railing may be inconvenient or even unsafe, these kinds of problems can be solved most of the time by walking around with a few basic hand tools. Unless your inspector finds wood rot, decay, or major safety issues, it’s best to avoid asking the seller to take care of it.

Strike a balance

Know the difference between essential and non-essential repairs, and always keep the market in mind. In a “buyer’s market,” you have much more leeway to make demands of the seller. However, in a “seller’s market,” you don’t want to risk losing the sale by seeming too unreasonable, demanding, or nitpicky.

Buying or selling a home in the Asheville real estate market? Avoid unpleasant surprises! Don’t sign a contract before calling Asheville home inspector Peter Young. Click the orange button below to make an appointment.

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Don;t buy a home without a pest inspection first!.

For most potential buyers, a home inspection is a given prior to purchase. What about a pest inspection? Do you need that before you sign a contract to buy a house? Yes you do!

A state-licensed professional conducts pest inspections, also known as termite inspections. The inspector visually checks all accessible areas in a home, including crawl spaces, attics, and exteriors for evidence of:
• Wood-destroying insects (termites, carpenter ants, wood-boring beetles) and fungal rot.
• Evidence of previous infestations, such as damaged wood, dead insects, wings, and “termite tubes” in the wood.
• Conditions favorable to pests, such as plumbing leaks, earth-to-wood contact, and standing water.

Most states do not require a pest inspection by law before the sale of property, but a majority of mortgage lenders do. Many buyers require a termite contingency, allowing them to withdraw from the purchase in the event extreme damage is discovered.

Also, if you’re selling a home, it may be advantageous to get a pest inspection before placing the home on the market to make the property more attractive to potential buyers. Whether you’re a buyer or seller, here are some solid reasons to get a pest inspection:

Protect your investment

Call Peter Young for your Asheville pest inspection.

Buying a home is a big investment. In fact, for many people it’s the biggest purchase they’ll ever make. Home ownership and upkeep go hand in hand. You wouldn’t live in a home with a leaky roof, right? Extensive and expensive damage to the structure would decrease the home’s value. The same is true with common household pests. Termites, carpenter ants, wood-boring beetles, rodents, and other pests can do severe damage to a home. These kinds of pests are not easy to spot by untrained eyes. It’s better to have a professional pest inspection service give the house a shakedown before you sign that contract.

Protect your health

It’s not just your money at stake from pests in a home; your health may be at risk. Flies, roaches, mosquitoes, fleas, mites, rodents, and bed bugs can be sources of disease. Out here in Western North Carolina, it’s not uncommon for homes to have bats, and that could mean bat bugs. Where there are bats there is guano, which can carry disease. Speaking of disease-causing droppings, there are a number of health problems associated with rodent feces. So if a house has rodents, you definitely need to know that up front.

Peace of mind with an Asheville pest inspection

Sleep more soundly with a pest inspection.

There’s a definite advantage to sleeping at night without the sound of tiny mouse feet on the kitchen floor! Knowing that your home is free of rodents and aggressive, destructive insects, as well as unpleasant surprises in the form of huge repair bills helps you sleep more soundly at night.

So before you sign on the dotted line for a house be sure that both a physical home inspection and pest inspection are included in the purchase contract. Then if the inspections reveal serious problems, you can cancel the purchase of the property. Or if the inspection reveals the presence of pests but not significant damage, you can negotiate with the seller to adjust the home price to reflect the cost of pest extermination or ask the seller to take care of it before arranging the closing.

For more information about pest inspections, please check out this article from the North Carolina Department of Agriculture and Consumer Services.

Know before you buy!

Asheville home inspector Peter Young provides complete home inspection services in Asheville and surrounding areas. Call Peter today at 828-808-4980 to arrange a home inspection or to set up your Asheville pest inspection.

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