So, you’ve put an offer on a home, it’s been accepted, and you’re practically measuring for curtains. Then comes the home inspection – the moment that taps you on the shoulder and whispers, “Hey, buddy, your dream house has secrets!”

Don’t get the wrong idea. Home inspectors are Superheroes 🦸🏻 in sensible shoes, armed with flashlights and moisture meters. But sometimes, their findings can make your heart do a little tap dance. 

Here are six common culprits inspectors might unearth, along with a dose of what-to-do, and a sprinkle of “try not to picture the worst-case scenario.”

1) The Roof’s Having a Bad Hair Day (Missing or Damaged Shingles)

The “Uh Oh” Factor: Finding bald spots or cracked shingles can feel like your future home is sporting a bad comb-over. What’s hiding beneath? It may foreshadow potential leaks, and nobody wants a surprise indoor waterfall.

What to Do: Don’t immediately envision Noah’s Ark pulling up to your curb. Did your home inspector see any signs of water damage inside the house? A few missing shingles might be a simple fix. Get a roofer to assess the damage and provide a quote. You can then negotiate with the seller for repairs or a price reduction. Think of it as asking for a discount on a slightly balding, but still structurally sound, head. But if the whole roof is shot, full replacement will be costly!

2) The Foundation’s Not All It’s Cracked Up to Be

The “Uh Oh” Factor: Seeing cracks in the foundation can send shivers down your spine. Does your future abode have a “split personality?” Are you about to live in a mini geological fault line?

What to Do: Take a few deep breaths! Hairline cracks are usually just a sign of normal settling. However, wider or horizontal cracks need attention. A structural engineer can evaluate the severity. Again, this is negotiation territory. Maybe the seller can contribute to the repair, or you factor it into your offer. Run if the floor is slanted or uneven. You don’t need your furniture sliding downhill every night.

3) The Electrical System is Stuck in the Disco Era (Outdated Wiring)

The “Uh Oh” Factor: Discovering knob-and-tube wiring or improperly installed wiring isn’t ideal for powering your collection of smart appliances. It can be a fire hazard, and it could make your insurance company give you the stink eye!

What to Do: Modernizing the electrical system is a significant but necessary upgrade. Get quotes from licensed electricians. This is a serious safety concern, so don’t skimp. You’ll likely need to negotiate with the seller, as this isn’t a “slap some tape on it” situation. It’s essential for modern living. And while “Burning Down the House,” may be one of your favorite retro songs, you never want that to happen IRL!

4) The Plumbing Doubles As a Sprinkler System

The “Uh Oh” Factor: Finding drips, damp spots, or evidence of past leaks can make you wonder if your water bill will rival the national debt. Hidden leaks can also lead to mold – the unwelcome house guest that refuses to leave.

What to Do: Small leaks might be easy fixes, but persistent or hidden ones need professional attention. A plumber can diagnose and repair the issue. Negotiate with the seller for these repairs, especially if there’s evidence of water damage. Nobody wants to purchase a home that’s slowly turning into an indoor swamp.

5) Surprise Roommates (Pest Infestations)

The “Uh Oh” Factor:Discovering evidence of termites, rodents, or other unwanted critters can make you feel like you’re starring in your own personal horror movie. 

Nobody wants to share their living space with things that chew on wood or leave little “presents.” 💩

What to Do: A professional pest control company is your new best friend! Get an inspection and treatment plan. This is not something to negotiate lightly.

Wood destroying organisms can affect the home’s structural integrity, and mortgage lenders may insist on proof that the problem was resolved. And try not to have nightmares about tiny landlords demanding rent in the walls.

6) The HVAC System Is Younger Than the Mountains, but Older Than the Trees

The “Uh Oh” Factor: That ancient furnace or AC unit might still be chugging along, but it’s likely costing a fortune in energy bills and could break down any minute. It’s the great grandpa of appliances, and while you respect its longevity, you’re pretty sure it won’t handle another summer.

What to Do: Get the system inspected by an HVAC professional. They can assess its lifespan and efficiency. You can negotiate for a price reduction to account for the eventual (and likely sooner rather than later) replacement. Think of it as getting a heads-up that you will need to budget for a new set of “lungs” for your house.

The Bottom Line and a Gentle Nudge to Not Panic

Finding issues during a home inspection is common. It’s what the process is for! It gives you valuable information and the opportunity to negotiate. Don’t let every “uh oh” moment send you into a tailspin. Gather information, get professional opinions, and work with your real estate agent to find a solution that works for you. 

Remember, even the most charming houses have their quirks – it’s just about figuring out if those quirks are manageable or deal-breakers. Good luck, and may your future home be everything you dream!

Buying or selling a home in Western North Carolina?

Avoid unpleasant surprises! Contact Asheville Home Inspector Peter Young before signing any contracts. Call (828) 808-4980, or click here to make an appointment.

The post Six Shades of “Uh Oh”: Common Home Inspection Issues (Don’t Panic!) appeared first on Peter Young Home Inspections.

Vacation time is here! You’re so eager to hit the road that you’re not thinking about misfortunes that could strike your house when you’re gone. 

Our purpose is not to spoil your fun or convince you to cancel your plans. Quite the reverse! We’re here to share a few common-sense precautions so you can enjoy a more worry-free vacation. 

Let’s take a look at some common home disasters that can occur during vacation time.

Hot hot hot!

Summer is famous for thunderstorms and lightning-related home fires. When nobody’s around to call 911, a fire can gulp down your house for lunch. The best solution is a professionally installed lightning rod. Get the message? Don’t do this yourself. Any metal protrusion on your house must be grounded properly to prevent disaster. 

Call a licensed electrician to install your lightning rod.

Another source of home fires is faulty or failing wiring. If you live in an old house, be sure to have your wiring checked by a professional before going away.

Finally, it helps to have a neighbor you trust keep an eye out for you and call 911 in event of fire.

Lawn death

All the recent hot weather can fry your lawn, opening it to insect invasion. While excessive heat scorches your grass, extreme heavy rainfall makes it vulnerable to disease and fungus. Your best bet while you’re gone is to leave the number of your lawn care service with a trusted neighbor, in case of an emergency. Offer the same when your neighbor goes away. Fair is fair.

Burglary

Going away on Wednesday for two weeks? Why not just advertise it to the world on Facebook? Criminals like to troll the Internet for opportunities. And don’t let your kids share your vacation plans on all their social media venues. Save your vacation pictures until you get home.

If you plan to be gone for a while, arrange with your lawn service to keep your grass mowed, and place a hold on mail and newspaper deliveries. If you’re not inclined to suspend your mail service, ask a trusted neighbor to collect your mail daily.

Keep motion-activated lights operational while you’re gone. Burglars work best in the dark.

Home invasion

We’re talking about pests, not robbers! Bees, wasps, yellow jackets, bats, rats, or squirrels can find their way in and wreak havoc on your home. They build nests in your wood framing, munch their way through electrical wires, and leave droppings in their wake. 

If a rat gets electrocuted chewing through wires, it will begin to decompose quickly in the summer heat, and the stench can become unbearable. 

Be sure to keep your eave vents screened securely, and do the same with openings in your crawlspace.

Do a visual inspection regularly for places around your home where varmints can enter, and be sure to keep them sealed securely.

I think that I shall never see a thing as heavy as a tree…

As mentioned above, summer means storms! Think high winds, heavy rain, saturated soil, and falling trees or limbs. A falling tree can really do a number on your house!

Check out the trees around your home. Are there old, vulnerable trees within falling distance of your roof, or huge, heavy branches hanging overhead? If so, call a certified arborist to come out and take a look. They know how to spot warning signs that might spell trouble for your house. Do this a few months before you plan to leave on vacation.

While on your property, an arborist can cut back overhanging branches, which are best kept at least eight to ten feet from your roof line. Also, they can identify trees that are notorious for uprooting, such as Bradford pears, which might spell disaster in high winds.

When spores attack!

Summer heat and humidity are a perfect recipe for spores. That’s why your HVAC system is your friend, especially when you’re away on vacation. The system not only keeps your home cool, but it draws humidity from inside to outside.

Never leave the AC turned off when you go away. Just a few days are all it takes for spores to take root and fill your home with mold. Keep the AC set at 77 while you’re gone. That should be enough to keep mold at bay.

Water, water everywhere

Do you have known issues with your foundation? I you answered yes, then it’s imperative to keep water at bay. Be sure your yard is graded away from your house, and keep your rain gutters clear to prevent water from running down to your foundation. You may even have to install a French drain to carry water away.

There are other ways water can trash your home when you’re not there. One of the biggest culprits is that aging water supply or drain hose on your washing machine. If you see any suspicious bulges, it’s time to replace them. Also, to be on the safe side, turn off the water supply to your washer before you drive away.

Don’t forget that ancient water heater. If it fails while you’re gone, it can send its whole 75-gallon load rushing across your house. If your water heater was installed back in the Jurassic days, it is probably best to cut the power, turn off the water supply, and drain the water out before you go, if possible. But BEWARE! When you return, you MUST turn on the water supply and fill the tank before switching on the power, to avoid burning out the heating elements.

Take these tips to heart for peace of mind during your vacation.

Buying or selling a home in Western North Carolina?

Avoid unpleasant surprises! Contact Asheville Home Inspector Peter Young before signing any contracts. Call (828) 808-4980, or click here to make an appointment.

The post Going away for vacation? Take steps to prevent disaster before it strikes appeared first on Peter Young Home Inspections.

Home inspection is a must for home buyers before signing closing papers. Reliable inspection results can mean the difference between finding the home of your dreams or walking away from a money-pit nightmare. Some folks think they can skip inspection to hurry things along. A word to the wise: DON’T! A home inspection can uncover a home’s real value. It may reveal costly, needed repairs that detract from a that value or even call off the deal. Also, an inspection report can give you leverage to negotiate for a lower price on a home that’s facing serious repairs.

What should you be looking for in a home inspection report? Inspections may uncover small defects or dangerous and costly problems. Some call them red flags or deal-breakers. Let’s take a look at some of the more serious issues an inspection may reveal, beginning with a home’s exterior.

Start at the bottom

Let’s start with the foundation. This is the supporting structure for the entire house. Trouble with the foundation isn’t easy to fix, and it’s usually expensive to repair.

Uneven areas, sunken areas, or major cracks in the wall are telltale signs that the foundation is shifting.

Other signs are misaligned or sticking windows or doors, gaps between walls and windows or doors, sagging or slanted floors, or the musty smell of mold in the basement or floor space.

Click here for a look at foundation problems and potential repair costs.

Up on the roof

Roof problems can be serious dealbreakers. Depending on the size of the home and the type of roof, replacement can cost between $6,500 and $11,000 on small to average sized homes, or even as high as $80,000 on a supersized mansion. An inspector will assess the condition of the roof. Does it look well-maintained? Are there damaged or missing shingles or flattened spots where water pools?

Some homeowners may attempt to save money by doing roof replacement themselves. We don’t recommend that unless you have the know-how and are experienced working with power tools on a ladder or on a slope. You might save between $2 and $7 a foot on professional labor, but if you do it wrong, you could end up with serious damage to the roof, the attic, the eaves, and framing, even resulting in mold, water damage, and structural problems.

Check out this article on roof replacement costs.

Those darn pests!

Wood-destroying insects can wreak havoc on a home. For example, if poorly-installed support beams are in direct contact with the ground, termites may be gnawing away at posts that support floors or decks.

Not counting the cost of termite extermination, repairing termite damage can be an expensive affair. Costs range from $600 to $3,000, with a national average of $1,800.

Doors and windows

Doors and windows should open and close smoothly, but more importantly, they should seal tightly and keep the elements out to avoid costly energy bills, keep pests outside, and protect the home from water damage. Defective or worn-out doors and windows are replaceable, but the work can be costly. Much of the time the whole door frame needs to be removed and refitted, leading to stucco or siding repair and painting. Also, if a door is rotting out, that may be a sign of water damage, which can be another costly repair.

In the gutter

Damaged or non-functioning gutters can lead to serious water damage on your roof, eaves, walls, and even a home’s foundation. Gutters should be properly connected to the roof with no evidence of leaks, and water should flow AWAY from the home’s foundation.

Again, depending upon the size of your roof, you can expect to pay from $600 to $8,000, with an average of $2,000 for popular materials. If you need to replace old gutters, add in about $200 to tear down and dispose of the old ones.

Click here to learn more about gutters and costs.

Next we’ll look at some potential red flags inside the house.

Electrical issues

These can be serious inspection red flags. Many homes built between 1965 and 1972 were wired with aluminum instead of copper. Aluminum wiring can be a fire hazard. The U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission (CPSC) reports that homes with aluminum wiring are 55 times more likely to have “fire hazard conditions” than homes wired with copper.

Replacing a home’s wiring can be a costly endeavor. Depending on the size of your home, the total tab can run as high as $30,000 or more. However, failing to address rewiring can be even costlier in the long run, especially in the event of a fire.

Insulation and asbestos

You might think asbestos problems are so yesterday, but you’d be surprised how common it is in homes built prior to 1980. It may even be found in some popcorn ceilings (remember those?).

Removal requires expensive, professional assistance. Asbestos is a dangerous carcinogen to your lungs, so never attempt to remove it yourself.

Many older houses have poor or practically non-existent insulation. Without costly remediation, the owners of these homes can look forward to many years of high heating and cooling bills.

The pipes, the pipes are calling

Some plumbing issues have easy fixes, like replacing the flapper on a toilet or fixing a leaky faucet. What about replacing pipes that are uninsulated and burst in freezing temperatures? That will set you back some! Don’t overlook lead pipes, banned in the US in 1986, but are found fairly often in homes built prior to that.

Replacing a home’s pipes will thin your wallet! To replace the plumbing in an existing structure, expect to pay between $50 and $200 per hour for labor plus the cost of materials. A typical 2,000-square-foot home averages between $3,000 and $16,000.

Find out more about pipe replacement costs.

Before you buy a home, we advise getting a video septic or sewer inspection, and be sure to scope the pipes that lead from the house to spot problems like tree roots breaking through pipes or clogged spots where water can’t drain properly.

Appliances

Outdated ovens, dishwashers, or refrigerators are not serious issues, especially in hot sellers’ markets. But watch out for trouble with furnaces, boilers, HVAC systems and water heaters. They can be very costly to replace. And if these are poorly-maintained gas appliances, they can emit lethal doses of carbon monoxide.

Mold

Mold and water leaks are common companions. Neither condition is desirable Some molds are relatively harmless and can be fixed fairly simply. However, keep in mind that if you don’t fix the water problem, mold will return soon enough. Other types of mold are known to cause serious respiratory issues, particularly for folks with asthma or allergies.

Mold must be addressed before you move into a home, and if the problem is widespread in areas of the house, then it may be time for some negotiating the contract.

Some say there are few problems revealed by inspection that are insurmountable, but some of the ones we discussed above might be dealbreakers or, at the very least, catalysts for some serious price negotiations.

Buying or selling a home?

Avoid unpleasant surprises! Contact Asheville Home Inspector Peter Young before signing any contracts. Call (828) 808-4980, or click here to make an appointment.

The post Home inspection “red flags” appeared first on Peter Young Home Inspections.

The housing market goes on day after day, year after year, with an impressive success record. The National Association of Realtors (NAR) reports only about one in 20 real estate transactions is not completed. A small part of these don’t reach successful closing due to problems unearthed during home inspections. These are not the fault of the inspection or the inspector, but are due to serious issues with the homes themselves.

Home inspections are an essential part of any home buying transaction. They are usually paid for by the buyer. Please note that homes cannot “fail” an inspection (see our July, 2019 blog). However, an inspection may reveal unexpected problems, which (if serious enough) can kill the deal. More often, home inspection issues lead to negotiations in which the seller agrees to pay for repairs or adjusts the selling price to account for needed repairs. Without some wiggle room, deals may fail to reach completion.

So, let’s take a look at what happens after a home inspection.

Caveat emptor (let the buyer beware)

A small percentage of home buyers (about 5%) waive their right to a home inspection. This is not a good idea. 

Even if you’re purchasing a home “as is,” it is best to know what you’re getting into before signing on the dotted line. Otherwise, you may be in for a world of hurt, like the young couple in the Tom Hanks/Shelly Long movie, The Money Pit.  

Well, okay, that’s a bit extreme. But keep in mind that in North Carolina, sellers are under no obligation to disclose anything not requested. That makes it risky to buy a house that’s for sale by owner. Conversely, realtors are required to disclose known defects. However, in either case, a home inspection is critical. 

No home is perfect, not even newly-build ones, so don’t expect an inspection report that doesn’t uncover a few problems. Think of a home inspection as a way for buyers and sellers to get a realistic look at a home’s current state while bringing to light any problems that might need fixing in order to close the sale. 

For buyers, an inspection can bring some peace of mind in knowing no big surprises are in store. For sellers, an inspection can help set a realistic selling price on the house. That’s just one reason that many buyers opt for a home inspection prior to putting their house on the market.

A look under the hood

There’s no “one size fits all” home inspection. Different inspectors may focus on different areas, but there are a number of items generally covered in a home inspection. 

These include a home’s major components – in essence, the things that hold a house together – and other items that are considered essential.

Here’s what most home inspections cover:

• Roof
• Attic (with visible insulation)
• Walls
• Ceilings
• Floors
• Windows
• Doors
• HVAC
• Plumbing
• Optional septic inspection (recommended to avoid costly surprises)
• Appliances
• Electrical system
• Foundation
• Basement
• Structural components

What happens if problems are found?

The majority of problems revealed by home inspections are minor. A good rule of thumb is that if the repair costs less than the price of the home inspection, it’s best to just let it go, especially in a seller’s market. Asheville is still a strong seller’s market, even if this past year has shown a bit of cooling down.

So don’t sweat the small stuff. You may have to foot the bill for regrouting the bathtub if the seller won’t do it or adjust the price for it. It’s just the nature of the beast in today’s market.

The real issues are those relating to safety or the home’s structure. For example, if an inspection reveals a serious electrical hazard in the main junction box, this must be addressed before proceeding with the sale. It’s perfectly reasonable for the buyer to ask the seller to fix this problem. Likewise, if an inspection report reveals serious structural issues, this would be the seller’s responsibility to fix it. 

If the seller refuses, the buyer can walk away from the deal. However, it is in the best interest of both buyer and seller to come to a mutually satisfying deal.

If a seller wants to make a quicker sale, or lacks the money to make repairs, the house may be sold “as is.” An “as is” home typically sells for less, and may have fewer offers, since lenders won’t approve loans on homes with notable problems. So if you’re buying an “as is” home, an inspection is a must.

What’s next for sellers when inspections reveal serious issues?

In reality, sellers are under no obligation to make any repairs. However, FHA and VA lenders mandate repairs in the following areas:

• HVAC issues
• Structural issues
• Water damage
• Roof damage
• Electrical defects
• Plumbing issues
• Insect and pest infestations

If the seller refuses these repairs, the deal can fall through and the home may go back on the market. However, this isn’t too likely, since these same issues will arise the next time around.

Counterpoint? Or was that “counter-offer?”

The seller may decide to make a counter-offer, fixing any serious problems, but denying smaller issues. In a seller’s market, buyers will have to give up asking the seller to repair any of these items:

• Minor electrical issues, such as a faulty dimmer or cracked switch plates
• Cosmetic flaws, such as a chipped tile on the bathroom floor
• Appliances
• Window treatments
• Minor walkway or driveway cracksRepairs less than $100

If the seller makes a counter offer, the buyer generally has a few days in which to agree or terminate the sale. If an agreement is reached, there will need to be an amendment to the contract that spells out the repairs to which the buyer has agreed. Then the seller will begin the process of making the repairs. 

Sometimes repairs can’t be made before the buyer takes possession. In that case, the repairs are made as soon as possible and paid for by the seller. Most of the time, this involves an escrow agreement between the seller and the buyer.

Giving credit where credit is due

In many cases, sellers may offer a credit on the home purchase price for the cost of repairs. For example, if a roof repair is going to cost $6,000, the seller reduces the sale price by $6,000. Then the buyer can use a home equity line to pay for the repair and even save a bit in taxes for the interest payments.

The bottom line: Home inspections can lead to a flurry of activity and negotiations between seller and buyer. However, you should not even consider engaging in a home transaction without getting an inspection first.

Buying or selling a home?

Avoid unpleasant surprises! Contact Asheville Home Inspector Peter Young before signing any contracts. Call (828) 808-4980, or click here to make an appointment.

The post <strong>What comes after a home inspection?</strong> appeared first on Peter Young Home Inspections.

Your home is a huge investment, and not just for its purchase price. Regular maintenance and repairs add up over time, but are necessary to retain your home’s highest value. One thing you don’t need is extensive damage from wood-destroying insects! Before you purchase a home, it’s best to find out if there has been a previous infestation, and whether current conditions are conducive for a reinfestation. Always get a home inspection before signing the purchase agreement.

Let’s take a look at the types of insects that may be eating your home and what to do about them. We’ll look at termites, carpenter bees, carpenter ants, and wood-boring beetles. You don’t want any of these chewing on your house.

The award for most destructive goes to…

Termites are the most destructive wood-destroying insects. Their nests may be outside your home, but their appetite for cellulase-based food sources may lure them into your home to feed on wood structures. Termites break down the cellulase in wood. It’s their number one delicacy. Trouble is, they can be happily chewing away at your wood for years before you begin to notice the damage.

Since your roofing structure is made of wood, extensive termite damage can cause it to collapse, exposing your home to rain, wind, or snow. The cost of repair can be devastating.

Termites sometimes live under your house, eating away at wood that supports floors above your crawl space. A properly-constructed home should not have wood-to-ground contact. Wood-to-ground supports for subfloors or decks are a prime entryway for termites. When wood is used for support, it should be encased in concrete footers to separate it from the ground. Nor should wood supports be in direct contact with subfloors. One solution is to use steel wood-to-wood caps.

Signs of infestation

Just because you haven’t noticed termites, that doesn’t mean they’re not your housemates. It’s wise to have your home inspected every few years. While most home inspectors are not certified to identify specific wood-destroying insects, they can point out some tell-tale signs and refer you to a certified pest-control specialist. Here’s what the pros look for:

• Mud-like deposits clinging to wood surfaces
• Mud tubes or tunnels that link a ground nest to your homes wooden structure
• Evidence of tunnels in wood or tiny holes
• Buckling paint on wood exteriors
• Discolored drywall that resembles water damage
• Small piles of tiny wings on surfaces

A good offense

The best defense against termites is a good offense. Begin by eliminating conditions that are conducive to infestations, such as:

• Debris piles underneath or around the structure
• Planter boxes attached to or touching structure
• Insufficient ventilation
• Wood-to-ground contact
• Mulch touching structure
• Wood pile in contact or too close to structure
• Wood rot
• Excessive moisture

Click here to see a video of conducive conditions.

Carpenter ants

There’s an internet joke where someone is hearing the song “Close To You,” coming from the ground. He exclaims, “Oh, no! Carpenter ants!” 

That’s funny, but finding carpenter ants in your home is dead serious.

Some people mistake swarming (winged) carpenter ants for termites. There are noticeable differences. In the photo at left, the top drawing is a termite, and the bottom drawing is a carpenter ant.

Carpenter ants have a noticeable waist, elbowed antennae, and two sets of wings that are of different lengths. Termite have no visible waist, straight antennae, and all four wings are equal in size.

Carpenter ants don’t eat wood like termites. They will excavate dead and damp wood and dig tunnels in which to nest. If left unrepaired, damp wood will succumb to dry rot, creating the perfect environment for carpenter ants. 

If you see winged carpenter ants in your home, there is likely a nest nearby. Like termites, the winged ones are mating. The large ones that look like wasps are queens looking for a new place to make a nest. Now would be a good time to contact a pest control service.

Carpenter bees

Carpenter bees do not eat wood, but they drill circular holes inside the wood to live in it. Many homeowners will discover carpenter bees nesting in frames, eaves, or on the wooden sides of buildings. The bees are large, and the males will swoop at you to scare you off, but only the females can sting, but they usually won’t bother unless you stick your fingers in their holes.

Carpenter bees pose a threat to houses, because they weaken the structural integrity of the wood after years of boring holes. Also, carpenter bee larvae usually live inside the holes, and woodpeckers throw fuel on the fire by pecking and enlarging the nesting holes to eat the larvae. 

One way to keep carpenter bees away is to paint or stain all your wood surfaces. Carpenter bees don’t seem to like paints, stains, or varnishes.

Powder post beetles

These critters are second to termites in regard to the kind of damage they can do to your home. They deposit their larvae in wood around your home, and their number one delicacy is the cellulose in wood fibers.

You might see signs of a powder post beetle infestation by the powdery wood residue they leave behind, resembling fine sand. 

Powder post beetle larvae are born inside the wood and may happily munch on it for up to five years, leaving it brittle and unfit for structural support. By the time you spot them, damage to your home and roof may be devastating. That’s why the prudent thing to do is schedule an inspection with a certified pest inspector yearly.

An ounce of prevention

You know what “they” say an ounce of prevention is worth. The best way to protect your home and your roof is to arrange for professional inspections at least every two years.

Get a home inspector to check for signs of wood damage. Depending on the findings, the inspector may recommend a licensed pest control inspector to make further determinations.

The best strategy against wood-destroying insects is to be proactive. It’s the keep you keeping your home safe for many years to come.

Set up a pest inspection

Peter Young Home Inspections can arrange for a pest inspection. Click here to make an appointment.

The post Protect your home from wood-destroying insects appeared first on Peter Young Home Inspections.

Everyone knows that you need to get a thorough, professional home inspection before purchasing a home. Sometimes it’s all smooth sailing, but there are times when inspectors zero in on serious issues. Are these issues “deal breakers?” That depends on how serious (and expensive) they are, but it also can depend upon the direction of the real estate market at the time.

In areas where there’s a glut of homes, buyers have a lot of leeway in demanding that sellers make fixes before the sale. However, in a hot sellers’ market like Western North Carolina is in currently, sellers know that buyers can’t be too choosy and are more reluctant to agree to expensive fixes. But there are some issues that need to be fixed before lenders will agree to finance the property. Let’s look at some of the more serious issues that may arise in a home inspection.

Foundation issues

Nearly all houses have some kind of “settling.” Over time, a home’s weight causes it to settle into the ground. This can create hairline cracks in the basement or even in walls. Most of these small cracks are not significant, but larger cracks can indicate a serious problem. 

For example, a quarter inch crevasse traversing a basement wall from floor to ceiling might indicate a serious problem. A house supported on concrete blocks is an accident waiting to happen. Likewise with slanted floors. If the house has settled too much, it may result in structural weakness. If cracks are large, the inspector may recommend a structural engineer to decide whether they are dangerous. If the home has serious structural issues, this is likely to be very expensive, and until it is fixed, banks may not offer financing on the structure.

Water damage

When there is standing water in the basement or evidence of water stains elsewhere in a house, inspectors hear alarm bells. While a small water stain on the ceiling may look like a simple fix, it could be evidence of a wider problem. Water works its way downward, so a stain in the basement might be caused by a leak in the roof. 

The trouble could be the roof or skylights, drain tile cracks, or a serious issue with the home’s plumbing system. The cause should be determined before buying the home. Water intrusion in a home can lead to another serious issue, and that is mold.

Black mold

It’s not unusual to find surface mold in poorly ventilated bathrooms, but black mold in a basement or crawl space is a far more serious issue. Black mold can cause allergies, asthma, and other serious health issues. If mold is widespread, the cost of remediation can be very expensive.

First you must bear the cost of removal, and then the added costs of making sure it doesn’t return. Serious mold issues might be due to foundation cracks allowing water to seep in, or it could be caused by roof leaks or plumbing failures. Any of those three causes require expensive fixes.

Antiquated or faulty electrical systems

Pre-1960 homes may have an antiquated “knob and tube” electrical system. In most areas, those systems don’t meet local codes, which means the home’s entire electrical system will have to be replaced. In some cases, walls may have to come down in order to do the wiring repairs.

Speaking of wiring, old wiring may be a serious fire hazard, and replacing it can set you back many thousands of dollars. Then there’s aluminum wiring, which was discontinued in Western North Carolina after 1974. Aluminum wires can overheat, resulting in fire damage. If a home is found to have aluminum wiring, it will need to be replaced.

Vermin infestations

There are vermin, and then there are vermin! It’s not too serious if an inspector finds some evidence that there were mice in the home. Most homes will host mice from time to time, and the owner can put out traps or even get a few cats to remedy the situation.

Termites are another story entirely. Termites show up when moisture gets into wood in your home, and they can literally eat you out of house and home, as the saying goes.

Getting rid of them can be difficult and very costly. First you must kill them, then you must replace the wood they destroyed, and finally you must keep an eye on the area to be sure they don’t come back. Small areas can be spot treated, but larger infestations may require tenting the house, and this is a costly endeavor.

Inspectors may find other pests, such as squirrels, bats, and raccoons. They will need to be removed by professionals, and then their means of entry must be sealed up. This requires some repair, but is far less of an issue than termites.

These are some of the more serious issues home inspectors find. Are they deal breakers? They can be. If they prevent lenders from financing the property, they will have to be fixed, but in a hot sellers’ market it may be more difficult to get sellers to make these repairs. However, as most realtors will tell you, “Everything is negotiable.” It’s always an issue of what each side is willing to compromise to make the deal happen.

Buying or selling a home?

Avoid unpleasant surprises! Contact Asheville Home Inspector Peter Young before signing any contracts. Call (828) 808-4980, or click here to make an appointment.

The post Serious home inspection issues could impact closings appeared first on Peter Young Home Inspections.

A common question that customers ask home inspectors is, “What is included in a home inspection?” Home inspections are essential to the process of buying and selling homes. Financing may hinge upon the findings and subsequent remediation of issues that may be found during inspections. If you’re in the market as a buyer or seller, a home inspection will soon be on your agenda.

Here in part 2, we’ll take a look at:

• Basements/crawlspaces 
• Heating and cooling 
• Fireplaces/stoves 
• Plumbing 
• Electrical
• Interior doors and windows

Look out below!

Not all homes have basements. Some have crawlspaces, and some are built on slabs. A lot of basements are dimly-lit spaces with bare concrete or block walls – places to house the water heater, furnace, electrical panel, or HVAC system. For a home inspector, basements are a great vantage point from which to gain valuable insights into the overall health of your home. From visible cracks in the foundation, to water stains, to telltale signs of pest invasion, a basement tells a story to an inspector’s trained eyes. 

Then there are “finished basements,” with all the amenities, that serve as recreation rooms, home office space, or even separate guest quarters. Since these have finished walls and floor coverings, they can hide issues from the inspector. Still, there are signs, such as a musty smell or dampness, that signal the picture isn’t as rosy as it may appear.

Your inspector checks the foundation for cracks in the walls and floor, and gaps in the fitting of doors and windows. Another sign of foundation damage can be seen outside the basement in uneven ceilings and roof structures.
Unfinished basements can reveal excess moisture and signs of leaks. The inspector looks for leaking pipes, water seepage through windows or wall cracks, and telltale evidence of past flooding and water damage. If the basement ceiling is the subfloor for the level above, the inspector will check for structural integrity and the condition of the insulation. If the insulation is hanging loose and damp, there is a problem with excess moisture, which can penetrate the home.
Basements with water issues or poor air circulation can negatively affect air quality in the rest of the home. The two major issues are the presence of mold from excess moisture and the presence of radon gas in the ground or water supply. Moist, leaky basements usually signal the arrival of pests, such as insects or rodents, which can be potential health hazards.

What’s crawling around down there?
Your crawlspace should be safe and clean. Your inspector must be able to enter safely to check for:

• Foundation cracks
• Moisture and mold
• Wiring problems
• Framing issues
• Insect and vermin infestations
• Ventilation
• Vapor barriers
• Asbestos or other hazardous materials

The first important step in a crawlspace inspection is that the inspector needs to be able to enter safely. Assuming the entry is large enough to pass through, the inspector will first look inside to see if there are exposed construction materials, exposed nails, unprotected electrical wires, standing water, or a strong smell of mold. If these are present, the inspector will not go inside, and the crawlspace will not pass inspection.
Failing a crawlspace inspection is not a Shakespearean tragedy. Chances are good your inspector can make recommendations to remedy the situation.

Can your home FAIL an inspection?
The short answer is NO. However, poor inspection reports may be reasons for axing the deal or renegotiating price. See our blog on this topic for more information.

Blowing hot and cold

Your home inspection will include a check of the HVAC system. HVAC stands for heating, ventilation, and air conditioning. The system includes the integrated components of the home’s heating and air conditioning system, including main units, air handlers, pipes, ducts, electrical components, and central thermostat. It keeps your home warm in winter and cool in summer, and it also regulates indoor air quality and removes excess moisture through a cycle of inside-outside air circulation.

Home inspectors will check the overall condition of the HVAC system, but they can only inspect what they can see. This includes what can be seen in crawlspaces and attics, such as ducts and vents. Some elements are hidden in walls or under floors, such as pipes and electrical components.

Things that are invisible to the inspector are not included in the inspection. That being said, an experienced inspector knows how to spot signs of potential hidden defects. He may use a moisture detector to pinpoint dampness. Considering the cost of HVAC repair or replacement, it is worth the price to hire an experienced inspector for peace of mind. 

Your HVAC system requires regular maintenance. Click here for a handy month by month guide to HVAC maintenance.

Fireplaces and wood stoves

For many people, winter means it’s time to light the fireplace or woodburning stove. Your HVAC system may keep your home at a steady temperature, but nothing warms your bones on a cold night like a bright, crackling wood fire.

Woodburning appliances must not be taken lightly. My Chimney reports more than 20,000 chimney fires in the U.S. each year. Some are not apparent until an inspector finds the blackened evidence. Others burn so hot that they take out part or all of the home in a fiery blaze. If that’s not bad enough, there’s always the risk of carbon monoxide poisoning. That’s why it’s good to have an inspector check out the appliance and chimney before you buy a home, and that’s why we call in the services of a chimney specialist if your home requires a stove, fireplace, or chimney inspection.

If the stove or fireplace is used regularly, it should be visually inspected and cleaned each fall before fire season sets in. Chimney and stove pipe brush kits available at home stores, but if you’re not comfortable on a ladder or on the roof, then you’d be better off calling in a chimney sweep each fall before winter sets in.

The pipes, the pipes…

What does a home inspector look for in a home’s plumbing system? Generally, the inspector will check all sinks, toilets, bathtubs, showers, and outdoor spigots to ensure they are working properly. This also includes installed systems throughout the house. This means anything attached to the home that would require tools for removal, such as a sump pump for removing moisture from the basement.

The inspector checks for leaks or evidence of leaks. A seasoned inspector knows exactly where to look on floors, along the foundation, and on basement walls. Leaking water may indicate that pipes require repair or replacement before they cause water damage to foundations, floors, and ceilings.

I’ve got the power!

Another area of inspection is the home’s electrical system. Once again, the inspector can only check what can be seen. Wiring problems behind walls can be overlooked, however the inspector may find electrical issues in attics, basements, or crawlspaces, such as exposed wires or improper junctions.

The inspector will visit each room and turn on all lights and electrical fixtures. He or she may do a tactile inspection of wall outlets and receptacle plates to ensure they are not warm to the touch. Finally, the inspector will check the main breaker panel to ensure there are no overloaded breakers or faulty connections.  Some older homes still have fuses, rather than breaker panels. If the fuse box is very old, the inspector may recommend that the system be checked by a licensed electrician for safety and peace of mind.

Windows and doors

On the interior side of windows, the inspector will determine if the thermal seal is broken (the glass is going cloudy or there is moisture between the panes). Windows should operate smoothly and not fall when let go, and they should lock securely. There should be no cracked or broken panes, water staining of the wood, and the windows should be painted or stained to protect the wood. Weather stripping around doors and windows must be intact and in place securely.

As you can see, a home inspection is serious business! Without a favorable inspection, a buyer may not be able to secure financing and insurance.

Buying or selling a home?

Avoid unpleasant surprises! Contact Asheville Home Inspector Peter Young before signing any contracts. Call (828) 808-4980, or click the link below to make an appointment.

The post What’s in a home inspection? Part 2 appeared first on Peter Young Home Inspections.

Once upon a time, Asheville basements were little more than overgrown utility areas for storing unsightly items, housing the furnace, electrical panels, and maybe even a washer and dryer. In these times, with above ground living space getting so expensive, basements have seen a transformation into living spaces, such as rec rooms with pool tables, home theater systems, or even full bedrooms and bathrooms. This may be a convenient and inexpensive way to claim more living space in your home, but if some common basement problems are not overcome first, occupants of these spaces may be putting their health at risk. Even if you don’t use your basement as a living space, some of the problems down there can affect the rest of the house. This is why a basement inspection by a licensed home inspector is essential. There are three types of basements: 

• Unfinished
• Partially finished
• Finished 

With some variations, the same or similar problems can exist in all three.

Unfinished basements

An unfinished basement is an old-school, bare bones concrete room with no drywall, flooring, or furniture. It might be a laundry room, Dad’s workshop, or a creepy, musty storage room. Even though an unfinished basement does not count as square footage in a real estate transaction, home inspectors are required to inspect them and report any uncovered defects. Since unfinished Asheville basements have bare concrete walls, it is relatively easy for an inspector to spot a variety of issues. Here are some common problems. 

Mold & Mildew 

A stale and musty odor is a sign of water intrusion in a basement. The odor is from mold, and it means the basement is not dry. Eliminating the odor means cleaning and drying the walls, woodwork, and whatever you have stored down there. But you can’t stop there; you must find and eradicate the source of the moisture. If your land slopes toward your house, moisture intrusion will always be a problem in your basement. If you get standing water down there, you will need to install a sump pump. If it just always feels and smells moist, perhaps a dehumidifier will do. 

White residual deposits

Also called efflorescence, white residual deposits are found in basements that have water issues. The white residue is not a health risk of itself, but it can be an indicator of cracks in the foundation or walls in an unfinished basement. Cracks in the walls and floor may be superficial, but they also could be a problematic source of water intrusion. Your home inspector can determine whether the cracks are cosmetic or structural. 

Structural Defects 

Problems with walls, ceilings, and beams are easy to spot in an unfinished basement. Shoddy or incomplete joists can cause problems in the floors above. Past or present water issues can cause significant rot in wood joists, which in turn can create structural problems. 

Pest Infestations 

Roaches, ants, termites, and rodents may find a damp basement attractive. If the problem is moisture-related, it will not go away without drying up and eliminating the source of moisture. If you see signs of pests in your Asheville basement, your home inspector can arrange for a pest inspection.   

Dangerous fumes 

Basements can be contaminated with hazardous fumes. These are caused by several factors: 

• Stored solvents – since basements are used as storage spaces for household chemicals, such as paint, cleaning supplies, and solvents, be sure none of these are leaking. Prolonged exposure to chemical fumes can be dangerous to your health.
• Carbon monoxide – many homes have their furnaces in the basement. This should be inspected regularly for safe operation. When not maintained, furnaces can leak deadly carbon monoxide. Keep a carbon monoxide detector in your basement and one at the top of the stairs where you can hear it if it goes off. If the alarm sounds, get out of the house quickly and call your gas company from a safe distance.
• Radon gas – produced by the radioactive decay of uranium, radon can be found in the soil, rocks, and even in the air. Outdoors it poses no danger, but in the confines of a basement it can build up to dangerous levels. Radon levels are very hit or miss in Western North Carolina, and radon is the second leading cause of lung cancer. Your home inspector can arrange for a radon inspection. If an inspection reveals high radon levels, have your home treated by a radon remediation expert.

Partially finished basements 

A partially finished basement is just what it sounds like. Part of it is bare, but another part may have some sort of living space, such as a game room, entertainment room, workshop, or even a home office space. It may have a bathroom, but not bedrooms. There might be some drywall, but the floor could be concrete with a drain in the middle.  One thing to consider seriously: If you are spending a lot of time in an unfinished basement, you need to be sure it is a safe environment. The problems mentioned above (mold, fumes, radon, etc.) need to be addressed before spending much time down there.

Finished Basements 

A finished Asheville basement can be anything from a large, open area with flooring, a ceiling and drywall, to a complete living area with bedrooms, a bathroom, and even a kitchen. For a finished basement to count as square footage in a North Carolina real estate listing (MLS), it must be considered “heated space.” However, even if it doesn’t count as heated square footage, a well-constructed finished basement can still add considerable value to a home. 

Finished basements are not as easy to inspect as bare basements. Drywall and flooring can cover up structural defects and signs of previous water damage. If intended as living quarters, it is essential to check for mold issues, air quality, and test for radon. When a home has a finished basement, a radon inspector will set the test there. However, for homes with unfinished basements, the inspector will set up the test above grade on the first floor. Whatever type of basement a home contains, it is always best to have it checked out thoroughly by a licensed home inspector to rule out serious issues.  

Call Peter Young Home Inspections 

Buying or selling a home? Never sign any contract without first getting a home inspection!  Call Asheville Home Inspector Peter Young, 828-808-4980, or click here to make an appointment today.

The post What you should know about Asheville basements appeared first on Peter Young Home Inspections.

Living in the NC mountains in winter has its own set of challenges. While this area is paradise to many, chances are good that you sometimes get cold during the winter months. One problem is that many homes (especially older ones) are not well insulated. Warm air leaks out, and cold air leaks in. One big culprit for heat loss is your attic. Is it insulated well? Is it even insulated at all? You’ll need to take a look up there and see. Asheville attic insulation can make a big difference in your comfort and bills in winter.

The first thing to figure out is how to get into your attic. Some homes have attic hatches. These are rectangular openings in the ceiling with a board inside. You’ll need to climb up a ladder to push the board up into the attic, and then climb inside. A word of caution: If you don’t see a plywood walkway up there, don’t go in. Just stick your head up to look around and take stock of what you see. 

Other homes have pull-down ladders that take you right up into the attic. These make it very easy to get up there, but they provide a huge area for warm air to escape from your heated space. This can be remedied by an attic stair cover, which can be custom-crafted by a professional, or purchased in pre-made kits from a home improvement store.

Whichever way your home provides for attic access, it’s time to peek your head up there. 

Take A Look Around

First, do you see a plywood walkway on top of some of the boards? If so, you can safely walk or crawl on this plywood area. If there is no plywood, the only place you can walk safely is on the wood beams that run across the attic floor. Step off those beams and you can end up crashing through the ceiling, resulting in serious injury or even death. So be careful!

Now that you’re looking around, can you see the floorboards, or are they covered in some kind of material? The material between these boards is attic insulation. If all you see is bare floorboards, then there is no insulation up there. Why is this a problem? As we learned in school science class, warm air rises. So if you’re spending a tidy sum to heat your house in winter, and your attic is not insulated, much of that heat is being sucked out of your room and into the attic. The spiders may thank you, but it is a serious waste of energy and money.

So if you see no insulating material, or just a very thin layer of insulation, you are wasting money and energy. It’s time to get your attic insulated properly to stay toasty and save some bucks during those cold winter months.

There are a number of ways to insulate your attic. Some are fairly inexpensive, while others can set you back quite a bit. For the sake of comparison, let’s separate attic insulation into two categories: Do-it-yourself and professional installation. For the do-it-yourselfer, the most common choice is batt insulation.

Going Batty!

For their ease of installation, batts are the favorite choice of weekend fixers. Batts are generally packaged in rolls of varying thicknesses and standard widths. The thicker the batts, the better the insulation. They come in 16 or 24 inch rolls to fit between joists or studs in a home’s framing structure. You can buy them with or without a foil facing that serves as a vapor barrier. In colder climates, the vapor barrier should be facing down against the drywall underneath. That’s how to do it with Asheville attic insulation.

Batts are best for attics with standard joist spacing, few obstructions or penetrations to work around, and attics tall enough to get around in during installation. You will have to cut the batting to fit the length of the spaces you’re putting it over. Batts, especially the fiberglass kind, can irritate the skin, eyes, and lungs. So alwayswear long sleeves, gloves, a dust mask, and safety goggles during installation.

Batts come in a variety of materials. The most popular is fiberglass, but they also can be purchased in cellulose, mineral wool, and cotton. The best way to install them is to be sure they are thick enough to reach the top of the joists when you lay them in there. It may take two layers, depending upon the thickness you have chosen. The thicker the material, the better the insulation. Once the batts reach the top of the joists, another layer running perpendicular across the top will give you the best bang for your buck. That’s because the joists themselves can let cold air move between them. Covering them in the other direction adds another layer of protection.

If this sounds like a mystery, it’s really not. Click here to see a great video from Lowes on attic batt insulation and installation. 

Filling In the Gaps

The other option for do-it-yourselfers is loose fill, in which insulation materials are packaged in bags and blown into place to your desired depth using machinery you can rent from home supply centers. This works best for the following types of attics:

• Attics with irregular joist spacing (something other than 16 or 24 inches)
• Attics with multiple obstructions and penetrations that could interfere with laying down batting
• Attics where existing insulation needs improvement or deepening
• Attics with minimal headroom for maneuvering

Loose fill insulation comes in three main types: The most common type is cellulose, made from recycled paper products treated with boric acid for insect deterrence and flame resistance. If you buy enough bags from a home improvement store, you might be able to negotiate use of the blower machine for free. Remember, the more you spray, the higher the insulation value becomes. Don’t be chintzy. You don’t want to take all that time and effort and still not have adequate insulation. A good rule of thumb is to spray at least 8-12 inches of the material in your attic for effective insulation. 

Loose fill also comes in fiberglass and mineral wool, but these are generally more expensive than cellulose. Fiberglass also settles more, so a deeper layer is needed to achieve the same effect.

WARNING: Don’t spray any of these materials without adequate protection. Wear long sleeves, a dust mask, and protective goggles.

Pro Options

There are other options for Asheville attic insulation. These include open-cell and closed-cell foams. However, installaAtion of these materials is better left to professionals. 

For Reluctant Homeowners

Not the type to climb up into your attic to see what’s up there? No problem! Call Peter Young Home Inspections today, and let us find out how your installation stacks up against cold winters and hot summers.

Are you thinking of buying or selling a home? Get an inspection first to avoid unpleasant surprises.

Click the link below to arrange an appointment.

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Homes move like lightning in the hot Asheville real estate market.

A home inspection can have a significant effect on the sale of a home. If an inspection reveals life or property-threatening problems, it can even kill the deal. Or it can send the parties back to the bargaining table to renegotiate the price or convince the seller to make some needed repairs.

What is “reasonable and customary” regarding home inspections? What findings may be deal breakers? On the other hand, which items would be considered “nitpicky” for a buyer to demand? These questions may be have varying significance, depending upon whether we are in a buyer’s or seller’s market. If there is a glut of real estate for sale, then buyers can be as choosy as they wish. However, in tighter markets, such as the Asheville real estate market and surrounding and Buncombe County, listed homes can move at lightning speed, leaving buyers in more of a take-it-or-leave-it marketplace battlefield.

This being said, let’s take a look at what items are acceptable to ask sellers to fix if an inspection brings them to light.

Substantial home inspection problems

Termite tubes run through this board.

No matter the condition of the market, if an inspection reveals defects that are structural, mechanical, or environmental, it is reasonable for the buyer to request the seller to make repairs. This means issues that could prevent or restrict use of the home. Here’s a short list:

• Leaking roof or water intrusion at the home’s foundation
• Major drainage problems
• Mold problems
• Termites and other wood-destroying pests
• Electrical defects that create safety issues
• Wildlife in the attic (bats, squirrels, raccoons, possums, etc.)
• Well water or spring issues, such as inadequate pressure or volume of water
• Plumbing problems that interfere with use of the home, such as a backed up septic system or non-functioning toilets
• Lead paint (it’s a federal requirement for sellers to disclose any lead paint findings)

This list is by no means inclusive, but it represents issues that are reasonable and customary for buyers to ask sellers to handle previous to closing.

Minor issues might seem “nitpicky”

Don’t ask the seller to stain the deck.

As mentioned earlier, homes move quickly in the hot Asheville real estate market. In this environment, sellers may become irritated if they find your demands are focused on too many small issues. Let’s face it; if a listing has ten potential buyers standing in line, the seller has the luxury of grabbing the deal that seems most advantageous. To avoid being left in the dust, there are a number of demands that are best not to make. The following list is not all-inclusive, but is intended as a good guideline.

• Cosmetic issues. Is there a cracked tile in the backsplash behind the bathroom sink? Does a deck or rail need staining? Don’t ask the seller to fix those. You must ask yourself two questions before asking a seller to make a repair. One, if you or the seller walk away from the deal, is this a problem for which the next potential buyer would  demand action; and two, would this problem interfere with your ability to get financing on the home? If the answers are no, it’s probably best to bite the bullet and keep quiet about this particular issue.
• Cracks in the basement floor. Since concrete is a porous substance, it absorbs water and has a tendency to “settle.” Concrete floor cracks are not a structural problem, and are of little concern unless they are allowing water into the basement through the floor. However, cracks in basement walls present a more serious problem and should be inspected carefully.
• Repairs costing less than $100. There may be dozens of minor issues that need to be addressed, but home closings usually have a time frame in which to make those repairs. Don’t overwhelm the seller with a daunting list of requests, or he/she may just move on to the next offer.

Don’t ask the seller to fix small issues

Choose your battles wisely. Here are a few more minor issues that you should not to ask the seller to fix if you’re trying to buy in a hot market.

• 

  This outlet had water inside and was sparking.

  Non-functioning light switches or outlets.When it comes to switches and outlets, wires can become loose. It might be just a worn-out switch or outlet, however it may be indicative of a larger electrical problem. Your home inspector will determine if the electrical system is safe, or if there might be a more serious issue. Repairing a few old switches and outlets is usually inexpensive, so don’t insist on every switch working or looking like new. Wet areas (kitchens and bathrooms) should have GFCI outlets installed. However, many older homes don’t have them. Don’t stress over it. They are very easy to install by a qualified electrician.

• Cosmetic landscaping or small yard issues. While it’s important for a home to have “curb appeal,” you should not expect the seller to replenish the flower beds or trim trees as a condition of the sale. Nor should you ask the seller to level those few bricks in the garden path or remove the dandelions in the front yard – not unless you want to risk having your offer passed over.
• Loose fixtures, knobs, etc.If you find light fixtures, doorknobs, or even railings to be loose, this is some of the “small stuff” we’re always urged not to sweat. While a loose railing may be inconvenient or even unsafe, these kinds of problems can be solved most of the time by walking around with a few basic hand tools. Unless your inspector finds wood rot, decay, or major safety issues, it’s best to avoid asking the seller to take care of it.

Strike a balance

Know the difference between essential and non-essential repairs, and always keep the market in mind. In a “buyer’s market,” you have much more leeway to make demands of the seller. However, in a “seller’s market,” you don’t want to risk losing the sale by seeming too unreasonable, demanding, or nitpicky.

Buying or selling a home in the Asheville real estate market? Avoid unpleasant surprises! Don’t sign a contract before calling Asheville home inspector Peter Young. Click the orange button below to make an appointment.

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