As a home inspector, I’ve been places you couldn’t pay me enough to go if it wasn’t literally my job. I’ve shimmied into attics hotter than the surface of the sun and squeezed behind furnaces that haven’t been cleaned since the Carter administration. But nothing—and I mean nothing—competes with the crawlspace.

In the hierarchy of “Places Homeowners Don’t Want to Go,” the crawlspace is the undisputed champion. It’s dark, it’s cramped, and it’s usually home to an unsettling number of spiders that look surprisingly like weightlifters. Because it’s unpleasant, the crawlspace suffers from a severe case of “out of sight, out of mind.” You shut that little access door, walk away, and pretend the space below your subfloor doesn’t exist.

Here is an uncomfortable truth I have to deliver to clients often: Ignoring your crawlspace is like ignoring a cavity. It doesn’t get better on its own; it just gets more expensive and painful to fix.

In a crawlspace, the root of nearly all evil is moisture. A wet crawlspace is an active petri dish trying to consume your house from the bottom up.

If you’ve been blissfully ignoring that damp dungeon beneath your feet, here are a few reasons why you need to grab a flashlight (or better yet, HIRE ME to grab a flashlight) and find out what’s going on down there.

The Stack Effect (Why Your House Smells Like Dirt)

Before we get to the disasters, let’s have a quick science lesson. Your house operates like a giant chimney. Hot air rises and escapes out of your attic. To replace that air, your house sucks in new air from the lowest points—usually the crawlspace.

Building scientists call this the “stack effect.” I call it “inhaling the swamp.” Is your crawlspace damp, moldy, and smelling like a wet dog that rolled in mushrooms? Guess what? That’s the air you are breathing in your living room. 

Up to 50% of the air on your first floor originated in your crawlspace. If that doesn’t gross you out, nothing will.

Problem #1: The Structural Buffet

Your house is likely made of wood. The wood used for framing, joists, and subflooring needs to be dry. When crawlspace humidity gets above 70%, that wood starts absorbing moisture like a sponge.

Do you know what loves damp wood? Rot fungus.

I’ve been in crawlspaces where I could stick my screwdriver handle-deep into a main support beam because it had the consistency of wet cardboard. When wood rots, it loses its structural integrity. This leads to sagging floors, doors that suddenly stick, and cracks in your drywall upstairs. In a worst-case scenario, the whole structure could come tumbling down like a house of cards!

If your kitchen floor has started to feel “bouncy” when you walk across it, it’s not because your home is morphing into a backyard party bounce house. It’s because the joists below are transforming into mulch.

Problem #2: The Pest Party

Water is life. Unfortunately, that applies to pests, too. A dry crawlspace is an inhospitable desert to bugs. A wet crawlspace is an all-inclusive resort.

Termites are attracted to moisture. They don’t just want wood; they want soft, damp wood that’s easy to chew. 

A wet crawlspace is practically rolling out the red carpet for them.

Furthermore, high moisture attracts camel crickets (also known as sprickets). If you’ve never encountered one, they look like a spider and a shrimp had a terrifying baby that jumps directly at your face when startled. They love damp environments. Drying out the crawlspace is the only way to evict them permanently.

Problem #3: The Mold Explosion

Mold is the four-letter word of real estate. Lenders consider mold a major risk to the property’s value and structural integrity, often requiring professional remediation and a clean inspection report before final loan approval. 

Mold needs three things to thrive: food (your wood framing), appropriate temperature (crawlspaces are warm and snuggly), and moisture.

If you have a damp crawlspace, you almost certainly have mold growth. It might look white and fuzzy, or black and patchy on the floor joists. 

Remember the stack effect? Those mold spores don’t stay downstairs. They hitch a ride on rising air currents and enter your living space, potentially aggravating allergies and asthma. If your house has a persistent, musty “old basement” smell that no amount of scented candles can mask, that eau de stank is likely coming from under the house.

Ignorance Is NOT bliss! Stop Ignoring It.

Look, I get it. You don’t want to go down there. It’s gross.

But if you do start to notice musty smells, cupping hardwood floors, high indoor humidity, or a sudden increase in creepy-crawlies, take heed. “Just open the vents in the summer” is actually terrible advice. In humid climates it brings more wet air in to condense on cool surfaces.

So, it’s time to move from “everything is ruined” to “here’s how we save the house.” In the world of home inspections, we generally look at a hierarchy of fixes depending on whether you have a minor dampness issue or a full-blown subterranean swamp.

Here is a breakdown of how to actually dry out the dungeon.

1. The Vapor Barrier (The “Must-Have” Minimum)

Think of a vapor barrier as a raincoat for your crawlspace floor. Even if the ground looks dry, the earth is constantly “exhaling” moisture. A vapor barrier, usually a heavy-duty plastic (polyethylene) sheeting, is laid over the soil to stop that moisture from rising.

• Standard Grade: Most builders throw down a 6-mil plastic sheet. It’s better than nothing, but it’s thin and tears if you so much as look at it funny.
• Pro Grade: We recommend 10-mil to 20-mil reinforced plastic. It’s tough enough to crawl on without ripping, and it stays in place.

2. Diversion and Drainage

If you have actual standing water after a rainstorm, a plastic sheet isn’t the answer. You’ll just have a very expensive indoor swimming pool under your house.

• Gutters and Downspouts: I can’t tell you how many “wet crawlspace” issues are actually just clogged gutter issues. If your downspouts dump water right next to the foundation, gravity will do the rest.
• Sump Pumps: If the water table is high or the terrain forces water toward your house, you need a sump pump. It’s a bucket in the ground with a pump that says, “Not today, water,” and flings it far away from the foundation.

Crawlspace Encapsulation (The Gold Standard)

This is the nuclear option, and it’s arguably the best thing you can do for your home’s health. Instead of just covering the floor, you seal the entire space like a Tupperware container.

What’s involved:

• Sealing the Vents: Close off those foundation vents that allow humid summer air to enter.
• Wall Liners: The heavy plastic doesn’t just sit on the floor; it’s taped and sealed several feet up the foundation walls.
• Insulation: Replacing old, fiberglass “pink stuff” (which acts like a moldy sponge) with rigid foam board on the walls.

Pro Tip: Never encapsulate your crawlspace without addressing drainage first. If you trap water behind your beautiful new plastic liners, you’re just creating a giant, hidden mold bag.

Dedicated Dehumidification

Once the space is sealed, you might need to manage the air. In that case, you can’t just use a $200 dehumidifier from a big-box store; it’ll burn out in six months or sooner trying to keep up. You need a commercial-grade, low-temperature dehumidifier specifically designed for crawlspaces. These units are costly, but they can pull gallons of water out of the air daily and drain automatically so you never have to empty a bucket.

Before you panic and buy a crate of industrial fans, get your crawlspace inspected. Let us brave the spider-gymnasts and assess the moisture levels. Your home’s foundation (and your lungs) will thank you.

Buying Or Selling A Home in WNC?

Avoid unpleasant surprises! Contact Asheville Home Inspector Peter Young before signing any contracts. Call (828) 808-4980, or click here to make an appointment.

The post Dungeon Down Under: A Wet Crawlspace Can Be Your Home’s Worst Nightmare appeared first on Peter Young Home Inspections.

People often ask if a home inspection can kill a real estate deal? The simple answer would be no. An inspection of itself is not the reason deals are called off. However, there are times when the inspector finds serious issues with a house, which can cause negotiations between buyer and seller to break down, and the deal may fall apart.

First, let’s define the role of a home inspector. An inspector is a professional hired by buyers or sellers to carefully inspect a house and inform you of things that may be broken and in need of repair or replacing. When he or she does find issues in a home, the report may recommend seeking out an “expert,” such as a licensed electrician, roofer, plumber, or HVAC specialist for further evaluation or remediation. That’s because most of the time, inspectors are not licensed in these fields.

In most cases, the buyer hires the inspector and pays him to do his job and present his report. There are times when an inspection may uncover serious issues that may cause buyers to walk away from the deal. However, the inspector presents the findings in a neutral fashion, without getting involved in negotiations between the seller and the buyer.

As a home buyer, do you need an inspection? That’s a resounding YES! North Carolina is a “buyer beware” state. As a buyer, it is your responsibility to learn everything you can about a property before signing on the dotted line. When trouble is found, you can request repairs or a discount for the cost of the repairs, but if the seller won’t budge, you have the option of walking away from the deal.

The greater Asheville area is still a hot seller’s market, so negotiation may be off the table for small issues, but major defects are a different matter entirely. Let’s take a peek at some of the discoveries that sometimes derail the sale of a home.

Water damage and mold

Mold forms from damp or even wet conditions. Moisture in the house can come from a leak in the roof or chimney, cracked foundation walls, flooding, failing siding, and more.

Mold in the attic or basement left unchecked can cause problems in the home’s interior.

If you find mold and moisture on the insulation in your attic, make an appointment with a licensed roofing company to find and eliminate the problem at its source. Then you’ll need to consult a mold remediation company to clean it up.

Water and mold in homes may cause some buyers to walk away from the deal.

Major foundation issues

A home’s foundation is the core upon which the structure rests. Major problems with the foundation will likely reveal other issues in the home, such as:

• Uneven floors
• Sticking or tilted doors and windows
• Dampness or water in the basement

Minor cracks in the foundation are normal, since all houses settle over time. However, large cracks can be a cause of concern and require a foundation expert to estimate the potential cost of repair.

Major foundation repairs can range in the tens of thousands of dollars. Discuss solutions with the seller, such as getting them to repair the problem. This may have to be fixed before the deal can go through, because lenders may reject a property with serious foundation issues. If the seller refuses, then the buyer might choose to end the deal.

Roof repair or replacement

A roof is more than just a barrier from the elements. It helps maintain the home’s structural integrity. Instructors will look for loose or missing shingles, soft spots, and signs of water damage. Even relatively new roofs can lose shingles in storms. These are easily replaceable, but rotted wood underneath the shingles can be an expensive fix and may signal the need for complete roof replacement.

Can complete roof replacement be a deal-breaker? That depends. If the roof is shot and needs immediate replacement, some folks will amend their offer, or they might request the seller make the repairs, or they might just walk away from the deal.

Finding asbestos in the home

Older homes may have asbestos, which, when disturbed, can cause a fatal form of lung cancer called mesothelioma. Before being banned in the USA, asbestos could be found in flooring, drywall, attic insulation, siding, and pipe insulation.

The problem occurs if you’re doing renovation and repairs, and the material breaks up and gets into the air (and into your lungs). If you have this in your home and you plan on doing renovations, then you will need to get the material tested and removed by an accredited and reputable environmental contractor. This can be costly (up to $20 per square foot) and may become a deal-breaker.

Polybutylene piping

Polybutylene piping is a type of plastic resin used for indoor plumbing in homes from the late 70s through late 90s. The most common color of “Poly B” was light gray, but there were other colors, such as blue, silver, black, or white, depending upon region and manufacturer.

The main problem with Poly B piping in homes was its susceptibility to degradation and eventual failure over time, resulting in leaks and burst pipes, and causing sometimes catastrophic water damage. 

There are other types of plastic pipes found in homes, but if they are gray and flexible, chances are they are Poly B. Your home inspector should be able to identify them, or may recommend getting a licensed plumber to confirm the findings. Many homes built with Poly B are likely facing the need for replacement with more reliable materials.

Depending upon size, repair costs can range from several thousand dollars to more than $15,000. Discovery of Poly B is, at the very least, a reason for renegotiating a home’s selling price.

Dangerous or outdated electrical system

Two potential sticking points in home deals are aluminum electrical wiring and old-fashioned knob and tube wiring. Aluminum wiring can be trouble, because the connection to outlets, switches, fixtures, and lights can become overheated. Continual heating and cooling can result in loose connections and fires. Many insurance companies will not underwrite homes with aluminum wiring.

Knob and tube wiring lacks a ground wire for safety. An easy way to spot it is all the electrical outlets in the home have only two-prongs.

Electrical repairs and wiring upgrades can be pricey, and some buyers may choose to walk if the seller won’t budge on the price or opt to do the repair.

The need for speed!

If your inspection report reveals serious issues in the home, begin negotiations with the seller immediately, and if you do need to walk away, do it quickly. Your purchase agreement usually contains clauses about a bad inspection report of a low home appraisal. 

Your realtor and attorney can advise you on withdrawing your offer and arranging to get your earnest money returned. Then you’ll be free to find another, more suitable home for your needs.

Buying or selling a home in Western North Carolina?

Avoid unpleasant surprises! Contact Asheville Home Inspector Peter Young before signing any contracts. Call (828) 808-4980, or click here to make an appointment.

The post Potential home inspection deal-breakers appeared first on Peter Young Home Inspections.

Vacation time is here! You’re so eager to hit the road that you’re not thinking about misfortunes that could strike your house when you’re gone. 

Our purpose is not to spoil your fun or convince you to cancel your plans. Quite the reverse! We’re here to share a few common-sense precautions so you can enjoy a more worry-free vacation. 

Let’s take a look at some common home disasters that can occur during vacation time.

Hot hot hot!

Summer is famous for thunderstorms and lightning-related home fires. When nobody’s around to call 911, a fire can gulp down your house for lunch. The best solution is a professionally installed lightning rod. Get the message? Don’t do this yourself. Any metal protrusion on your house must be grounded properly to prevent disaster. 

Call a licensed electrician to install your lightning rod.

Another source of home fires is faulty or failing wiring. If you live in an old house, be sure to have your wiring checked by a professional before going away.

Finally, it helps to have a neighbor you trust keep an eye out for you and call 911 in event of fire.

Lawn death

All the recent hot weather can fry your lawn, opening it to insect invasion. While excessive heat scorches your grass, extreme heavy rainfall makes it vulnerable to disease and fungus. Your best bet while you’re gone is to leave the number of your lawn care service with a trusted neighbor, in case of an emergency. Offer the same when your neighbor goes away. Fair is fair.

Burglary

Going away on Wednesday for two weeks? Why not just advertise it to the world on Facebook? Criminals like to troll the Internet for opportunities. And don’t let your kids share your vacation plans on all their social media venues. Save your vacation pictures until you get home.

If you plan to be gone for a while, arrange with your lawn service to keep your grass mowed, and place a hold on mail and newspaper deliveries. If you’re not inclined to suspend your mail service, ask a trusted neighbor to collect your mail daily.

Keep motion-activated lights operational while you’re gone. Burglars work best in the dark.

Home invasion

We’re talking about pests, not robbers! Bees, wasps, yellow jackets, bats, rats, or squirrels can find their way in and wreak havoc on your home. They build nests in your wood framing, munch their way through electrical wires, and leave droppings in their wake. 

If a rat gets electrocuted chewing through wires, it will begin to decompose quickly in the summer heat, and the stench can become unbearable. 

Be sure to keep your eave vents screened securely, and do the same with openings in your crawlspace.

Do a visual inspection regularly for places around your home where varmints can enter, and be sure to keep them sealed securely.

I think that I shall never see a thing as heavy as a tree…

As mentioned above, summer means storms! Think high winds, heavy rain, saturated soil, and falling trees or limbs. A falling tree can really do a number on your house!

Check out the trees around your home. Are there old, vulnerable trees within falling distance of your roof, or huge, heavy branches hanging overhead? If so, call a certified arborist to come out and take a look. They know how to spot warning signs that might spell trouble for your house. Do this a few months before you plan to leave on vacation.

While on your property, an arborist can cut back overhanging branches, which are best kept at least eight to ten feet from your roof line. Also, they can identify trees that are notorious for uprooting, such as Bradford pears, which might spell disaster in high winds.

When spores attack!

Summer heat and humidity are a perfect recipe for spores. That’s why your HVAC system is your friend, especially when you’re away on vacation. The system not only keeps your home cool, but it draws humidity from inside to outside.

Never leave the AC turned off when you go away. Just a few days are all it takes for spores to take root and fill your home with mold. Keep the AC set at 77 while you’re gone. That should be enough to keep mold at bay.

Water, water everywhere

Do you have known issues with your foundation? I you answered yes, then it’s imperative to keep water at bay. Be sure your yard is graded away from your house, and keep your rain gutters clear to prevent water from running down to your foundation. You may even have to install a French drain to carry water away.

There are other ways water can trash your home when you’re not there. One of the biggest culprits is that aging water supply or drain hose on your washing machine. If you see any suspicious bulges, it’s time to replace them. Also, to be on the safe side, turn off the water supply to your washer before you drive away.

Don’t forget that ancient water heater. If it fails while you’re gone, it can send its whole 75-gallon load rushing across your house. If your water heater was installed back in the Jurassic days, it is probably best to cut the power, turn off the water supply, and drain the water out before you go, if possible. But BEWARE! When you return, you MUST turn on the water supply and fill the tank before switching on the power, to avoid burning out the heating elements.

Take these tips to heart for peace of mind during your vacation.

Buying or selling a home in Western North Carolina?

Avoid unpleasant surprises! Contact Asheville Home Inspector Peter Young before signing any contracts. Call (828) 808-4980, or click here to make an appointment.

The post Going away for vacation? Take steps to prevent disaster before it strikes appeared first on Peter Young Home Inspections.

Home inspection is a must for home buyers before signing closing papers. Reliable inspection results can mean the difference between finding the home of your dreams or walking away from a money-pit nightmare. Some folks think they can skip inspection to hurry things along. A word to the wise: DON’T! A home inspection can uncover a home’s real value. It may reveal costly, needed repairs that detract from a that value or even call off the deal. Also, an inspection report can give you leverage to negotiate for a lower price on a home that’s facing serious repairs.

What should you be looking for in a home inspection report? Inspections may uncover small defects or dangerous and costly problems. Some call them red flags or deal-breakers. Let’s take a look at some of the more serious issues an inspection may reveal, beginning with a home’s exterior.

Start at the bottom

Let’s start with the foundation. This is the supporting structure for the entire house. Trouble with the foundation isn’t easy to fix, and it’s usually expensive to repair.

Uneven areas, sunken areas, or major cracks in the wall are telltale signs that the foundation is shifting.

Other signs are misaligned or sticking windows or doors, gaps between walls and windows or doors, sagging or slanted floors, or the musty smell of mold in the basement or floor space.

Click here for a look at foundation problems and potential repair costs.

Up on the roof

Roof problems can be serious dealbreakers. Depending on the size of the home and the type of roof, replacement can cost between $6,500 and $11,000 on small to average sized homes, or even as high as $80,000 on a supersized mansion. An inspector will assess the condition of the roof. Does it look well-maintained? Are there damaged or missing shingles or flattened spots where water pools?

Some homeowners may attempt to save money by doing roof replacement themselves. We don’t recommend that unless you have the know-how and are experienced working with power tools on a ladder or on a slope. You might save between $2 and $7 a foot on professional labor, but if you do it wrong, you could end up with serious damage to the roof, the attic, the eaves, and framing, even resulting in mold, water damage, and structural problems.

Check out this article on roof replacement costs.

Those darn pests!

Wood-destroying insects can wreak havoc on a home. For example, if poorly-installed support beams are in direct contact with the ground, termites may be gnawing away at posts that support floors or decks.

Not counting the cost of termite extermination, repairing termite damage can be an expensive affair. Costs range from $600 to $3,000, with a national average of $1,800.

Doors and windows

Doors and windows should open and close smoothly, but more importantly, they should seal tightly and keep the elements out to avoid costly energy bills, keep pests outside, and protect the home from water damage. Defective or worn-out doors and windows are replaceable, but the work can be costly. Much of the time the whole door frame needs to be removed and refitted, leading to stucco or siding repair and painting. Also, if a door is rotting out, that may be a sign of water damage, which can be another costly repair.

In the gutter

Damaged or non-functioning gutters can lead to serious water damage on your roof, eaves, walls, and even a home’s foundation. Gutters should be properly connected to the roof with no evidence of leaks, and water should flow AWAY from the home’s foundation.

Again, depending upon the size of your roof, you can expect to pay from $600 to $8,000, with an average of $2,000 for popular materials. If you need to replace old gutters, add in about $200 to tear down and dispose of the old ones.

Click here to learn more about gutters and costs.

Next we’ll look at some potential red flags inside the house.

Electrical issues

These can be serious inspection red flags. Many homes built between 1965 and 1972 were wired with aluminum instead of copper. Aluminum wiring can be a fire hazard. The U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission (CPSC) reports that homes with aluminum wiring are 55 times more likely to have “fire hazard conditions” than homes wired with copper.

Replacing a home’s wiring can be a costly endeavor. Depending on the size of your home, the total tab can run as high as $30,000 or more. However, failing to address rewiring can be even costlier in the long run, especially in the event of a fire.

Insulation and asbestos

You might think asbestos problems are so yesterday, but you’d be surprised how common it is in homes built prior to 1980. It may even be found in some popcorn ceilings (remember those?).

Removal requires expensive, professional assistance. Asbestos is a dangerous carcinogen to your lungs, so never attempt to remove it yourself.

Many older houses have poor or practically non-existent insulation. Without costly remediation, the owners of these homes can look forward to many years of high heating and cooling bills.

The pipes, the pipes are calling

Some plumbing issues have easy fixes, like replacing the flapper on a toilet or fixing a leaky faucet. What about replacing pipes that are uninsulated and burst in freezing temperatures? That will set you back some! Don’t overlook lead pipes, banned in the US in 1986, but are found fairly often in homes built prior to that.

Replacing a home’s pipes will thin your wallet! To replace the plumbing in an existing structure, expect to pay between $50 and $200 per hour for labor plus the cost of materials. A typical 2,000-square-foot home averages between $3,000 and $16,000.

Find out more about pipe replacement costs.

Before you buy a home, we advise getting a video septic or sewer inspection, and be sure to scope the pipes that lead from the house to spot problems like tree roots breaking through pipes or clogged spots where water can’t drain properly.

Appliances

Outdated ovens, dishwashers, or refrigerators are not serious issues, especially in hot sellers’ markets. But watch out for trouble with furnaces, boilers, HVAC systems and water heaters. They can be very costly to replace. And if these are poorly-maintained gas appliances, they can emit lethal doses of carbon monoxide.

Mold

Mold and water leaks are common companions. Neither condition is desirable Some molds are relatively harmless and can be fixed fairly simply. However, keep in mind that if you don’t fix the water problem, mold will return soon enough. Other types of mold are known to cause serious respiratory issues, particularly for folks with asthma or allergies.

Mold must be addressed before you move into a home, and if the problem is widespread in areas of the house, then it may be time for some negotiating the contract.

Some say there are few problems revealed by inspection that are insurmountable, but some of the ones we discussed above might be dealbreakers or, at the very least, catalysts for some serious price negotiations.

Buying or selling a home?

Avoid unpleasant surprises! Contact Asheville Home Inspector Peter Young before signing any contracts. Call (828) 808-4980, or click here to make an appointment.

The post Home inspection “red flags” appeared first on Peter Young Home Inspections.

Does your asphalt shingle roof have black streaks, especially on the side facing north? This is very common in humid areas of the country. Often mistaken for mold or mildew, these stains are more likely caused by airborne spores of a blue-green algae species called Gloeocapsa Magma. Should you be worried? Is this a serious problem? Breathe easy. These spores do very little harm to your shingles, but they detract from the beauty of your home, especially if you are putting it up for sale any time soon. Even if you don’t intend to sell your home, you may be tired of seeing those black streaks.

Maybe you’ve noticed that stains and streaks are missing below any metal flashing on your roof. That’s because copper or zinc coatings on galvanized sheet metal are toxic to algae. So each time it rains, trace amounts of copper or zinc trickle down the roof and retard algae growth. 

You may also have noticed that algae stains are absent directly below the metal flashing around chimneys or roof vents. This is due to fact that copper and the zinc coating on galvanized sheet metal are toxic to algae. Every time it rains, trace amounts of metals are washed down the roof, inhibiting algae growth.
Let’s explore a few ways to eliminate Gloeocapsa Magma.

First, what NOT to do!

Never pressure wash asphalt shingles. The water pressure will remove the layer of grit from the shingles, rendering them less effective to protect the roof. It also may lift shingles up from the roof surface, making your home susceptible to water damage during rainstorms.

There are “professional” services out there that claim they can pressure wash your shingles. Don’t let them even try it.

Get out your chemistry set!

If you’re the “mad scientist” type, you might want to make your own algae-killing concoction. Get yourself a garden pump-up sprayer, and put these ingredients into it:

• One quart bleach
• One gallon of water
• A cup of trisodium phosphate (TSP) per gallon

NEVER mix any product that contains ammonia with bleach. Toxic fumes can be harmful or even fatal.
You’ll also need a bit more gear before you get started.

• Garden hose with spray nozzle
• Safety glasses or goggles
• Rubber gloves
• Old clothes
• Slip resistant shoes
• A ladder

Be sure to wear goggles to protect your eyes from the bleach solution. You may also want to consider wearing a mask that guards against fumes, especially if you’re sensitive to bleach. The gloves are for keeping the bleach off your hands. The slip-resistant shoes are a no-brainer. Rooftops can be dangerous even when dry. Use extreme caution when you get them wet.

Now you’re ready to begin. Spray this mixture liberally over the algae stains, let it sit for about 20 minutes, and then rinse it off with a hose.

NOTE: The bleach solution run-off can harm or kill plants, so before you start, hose down any plants that may come into contact with the solution, or hose them and cover them with plastic sheeting for extra protection. When you’re done, hose them down again.

The store-bought method

If you’re not the type to mix potent home brews, try Wet & Forget Outdoor Cleaner, a ready-made, bleach-free solution with a solid reputation for conquering rooftop algae. Unlike many other products on the market, Wet & Forget is EPA registered and biodegradable. A single gallon container makes six gallons of solution. It has some other advantages, such as:

• Conserves water, since it requires no scrubbing or rinsing
• One-step application: Spray and walk away
• Works with the wind and rain to do its job over time
• Eliminates algae, moss, lichens, mold, or mildew
• No bleach, non-acidic (pH level of 8), and no phosphates
• Unlimited shelf life
• Stores indefinitely in the sprayer after mixing
• Safer for shingles than bleach
• Safe for all outdoor surfaces, such as decks, slabs, fences, and stone paths
• Keep shingles clean for more than a year

Zinc or copper keeps those shingles clean

Whether you choose home-made or store-bought, repeated use of chemicals may shorten the life of your shingles. That’s why the best solution is to prevent the algae from coming back. As mentioned above, galvanized metal containing zinc or copper is toxic to roof algae and can keep it from returning.

Install a 2” to 4” strip of copper- or zinc-coated sheet metal along each side of your roof just beneath the ridge. Pure copper is more toxic to algae, but galvanized sheet metal is far cheaper to buy and is readily available from most home stores.

If you’re confident working on the roof, attach these strips with roofing nails or screws with rubber washers. If you have reservations about penetrating your roof’s protective seal, call a professional roofer to do this job for you.

Replace with algae-resistant shingles

If it’s time to replace your roof, ask for algae-resistant shingles with copper granules mixed in. They may cost a bit more, but avoiding those ugly streaks may be worth the price.

While those unsightly streaks of algae may not really harm your roof, there’s no need to live with them if you choose otherwise. Clean them off, and then take steps to keep them from coming back.

Buy or selling a home in or near Asheville?

Avoid unpleasant surprises! Contact Asheville Home Inspector Peter Young before signing any contracts. Call (828) 808-4980, or click here to make an appointment online.

The post Eliminate ugly roof algae and keep it away appeared first on Peter Young Home Inspections.

Have you ever experienced being so familiar with something that you start to overlook it? That happens to a lot of homeowners. They overlook things that should not be neglected. This can be a problem when it’s time to sell your home. The sale is contingent upon a favorable home inspection, and here’s the bottom line: The home inspector has a trained eye. He or she will catch all those things you may be missing. Here are some things inspectors routinely find.

Things are looking up!

The importance of a home’s roof cannot be emphasized enough. A leaky roof is never a localized problem if left unrepaired. Water will find its way in, and will travel downward, resulting in damage to ceilings, walls, even to floors. Inspectors will check a home’s interior for signs of water damage, such as stained ceilings and walls, or sagging areas on ceilings.

While most home inspectors do not take a stroll across your roof, they may take a look from a ladder, using binoculars to see further away. This type of visual inspection can may catch popped nails or torn or mold-damaged shingles, but won’t usually reveal hidden leaks. Some inspectors use drone operated cameras, which fly over your roof and make high-res digital recordings of its entire surface. Since inspectors go up in attics, they may see points of light coming through the roof. If these are not from ridge vents or turbines, they likely indicate trouble. If light can get through, so can water!

Your inspector can tell by the roof’s condition if it is coming near to “end of life.” Roof replacements are costly affairs, so a poor roof report might be a real sticking point in a home sale.

Blowing hot and cold

As temperatures are heating up across the country, your home’s HVAC system is more crucial than ever. When inspectors look at a home’s HVAC system, they might find several issues. The most common is a very easy fix – dirty or clogged filters. Your filter cleans the air as your HVAC system is working. When filters become clogged, they block the airflow, which can cause damage to the system’s heating and cooling functions.

The easy fix? Change the filter regularly. Check it every 30 days for signs of dirt and dust. Change it at least every 90 days. The longer it sits, the more dust, dirt, and allergens will accumulate in your home. 

Up in the attic, the inspector may find cracks or breaks in the ductwork. In some cases, support straps come loose and ducts may become partially disconnected. Cracked or broken duct connections waste power and money, since heated or cooled air is venting into the attic rather than living spaces. 

Another problem is old or poorly maintained systems. This can cause less than stellar performance as well as health and safety issues. Gas appliances need functioning exhaust systems to vent harmful gases to the outside. Cracks or breaks in heat exchangers can cause gases to leak back into the house. 

Keep in mind that HVAC systems are constructed of complex electronic and mechanical parts that are subject to wear and tear. Your inspector will assess the current condition of the HVAC system by running it through a heating or cooling cycle, and may be able to speculate on the remaining life of the unit. However, these are assessments are limited in scope. There are no guarantees the unit will not fail sooner than later.

Sneaky appliances

Home inspectors check out all major, built-in appliances, such as the stove, refrigerator, dishwasher, garbage disposal, washer, and dryer. Smaller appliances, like toaster ovens and microwaves aren’t inspected.

Appliances can be sneaky. Just because they work when the inspector is there, that doesn’t mean they will continue to do so. Stovetop burners can fail, as can oven heating elements.

•  Ovens that don’t get hot
•  Non-functioning range burners
•  Refrigerators and freezers not cooling properly
•  Unvented range hoods
•  Broken ice makers
•  Defective garbage disposals
•  Washers that don’t spin
•  Dryers that don’t heat up
•  Lint-clogged dryer vents

Depending on the age of the appliances, the inspector may advise on repair or replacement.

Making the grade

This one is quite simple. The land around a house should slope gradually away from the home.

When it slopes toward a house it can affect the foundation and cause water to collect in basements and crawl spaces.

Think mold! And that’s never a good thing.

Hiding something?

Home inspectors are like Sherlock Holmes when assessing the specter of hidden problems. What’s under a floor covering remains a mystery to the untrained eye. Inspectors don’t pull up carpets or wood flooring to see what lies beneath, but they look for telltale signs of trouble. A soft or sagging area on the floor indicates trouble below. Uneven, washboard-appearing wood flooring might indicate a wet crawlspace underneath.

Stains on the carpet or baseboards could indicate recurring moisture problems. 
This is why hiring an experienced home inspection sleuth is critical. You never know what a home may be hiding, but a good home inspector is trained to find out.

Buying or selling a home?

Avoid unpleasant surprises! Contact Asheville Home Inspector Peter Young before signing any contracts. Call (828) 808-4980, or click here to make an appointment.

The post These common home inspection issues can’t elude an inspector’s eye appeared first on Peter Young Home Inspections.

Everyone knows that you need to get a thorough, professional home inspection before purchasing a home. Sometimes it’s all smooth sailing, but there are times when inspectors zero in on serious issues. Are these issues “deal breakers?” That depends on how serious (and expensive) they are, but it also can depend upon the direction of the real estate market at the time.

In areas where there’s a glut of homes, buyers have a lot of leeway in demanding that sellers make fixes before the sale. However, in a hot sellers’ market like Western North Carolina is in currently, sellers know that buyers can’t be too choosy and are more reluctant to agree to expensive fixes. But there are some issues that need to be fixed before lenders will agree to finance the property. Let’s look at some of the more serious issues that may arise in a home inspection.

Foundation issues

Nearly all houses have some kind of “settling.” Over time, a home’s weight causes it to settle into the ground. This can create hairline cracks in the basement or even in walls. Most of these small cracks are not significant, but larger cracks can indicate a serious problem. 

For example, a quarter inch crevasse traversing a basement wall from floor to ceiling might indicate a serious problem. A house supported on concrete blocks is an accident waiting to happen. Likewise with slanted floors. If the house has settled too much, it may result in structural weakness. If cracks are large, the inspector may recommend a structural engineer to decide whether they are dangerous. If the home has serious structural issues, this is likely to be very expensive, and until it is fixed, banks may not offer financing on the structure.

Water damage

When there is standing water in the basement or evidence of water stains elsewhere in a house, inspectors hear alarm bells. While a small water stain on the ceiling may look like a simple fix, it could be evidence of a wider problem. Water works its way downward, so a stain in the basement might be caused by a leak in the roof. 

The trouble could be the roof or skylights, drain tile cracks, or a serious issue with the home’s plumbing system. The cause should be determined before buying the home. Water intrusion in a home can lead to another serious issue, and that is mold.

Black mold

It’s not unusual to find surface mold in poorly ventilated bathrooms, but black mold in a basement or crawl space is a far more serious issue. Black mold can cause allergies, asthma, and other serious health issues. If mold is widespread, the cost of remediation can be very expensive.

First you must bear the cost of removal, and then the added costs of making sure it doesn’t return. Serious mold issues might be due to foundation cracks allowing water to seep in, or it could be caused by roof leaks or plumbing failures. Any of those three causes require expensive fixes.

Antiquated or faulty electrical systems

Pre-1960 homes may have an antiquated “knob and tube” electrical system. In most areas, those systems don’t meet local codes, which means the home’s entire electrical system will have to be replaced. In some cases, walls may have to come down in order to do the wiring repairs.

Speaking of wiring, old wiring may be a serious fire hazard, and replacing it can set you back many thousands of dollars. Then there’s aluminum wiring, which was discontinued in Western North Carolina after 1974. Aluminum wires can overheat, resulting in fire damage. If a home is found to have aluminum wiring, it will need to be replaced.

Vermin infestations

There are vermin, and then there are vermin! It’s not too serious if an inspector finds some evidence that there were mice in the home. Most homes will host mice from time to time, and the owner can put out traps or even get a few cats to remedy the situation.

Termites are another story entirely. Termites show up when moisture gets into wood in your home, and they can literally eat you out of house and home, as the saying goes.

Getting rid of them can be difficult and very costly. First you must kill them, then you must replace the wood they destroyed, and finally you must keep an eye on the area to be sure they don’t come back. Small areas can be spot treated, but larger infestations may require tenting the house, and this is a costly endeavor.

Inspectors may find other pests, such as squirrels, bats, and raccoons. They will need to be removed by professionals, and then their means of entry must be sealed up. This requires some repair, but is far less of an issue than termites.

These are some of the more serious issues home inspectors find. Are they deal breakers? They can be. If they prevent lenders from financing the property, they will have to be fixed, but in a hot sellers’ market it may be more difficult to get sellers to make these repairs. However, as most realtors will tell you, “Everything is negotiable.” It’s always an issue of what each side is willing to compromise to make the deal happen.

Buying or selling a home?

Avoid unpleasant surprises! Contact Asheville Home Inspector Peter Young before signing any contracts. Call (828) 808-4980, or click here to make an appointment.

The post Serious home inspection issues could impact closings appeared first on Peter Young Home Inspections.

Here’s something you probably didn’t know. Large numbers of Americans live in “old” houses. More than 38% of all homes in the US were built before 1970, according to Eye on Housing. In fact, only 19% of owner-occupied homes were built after 2000, and a mere 3% were built after 2010. Generally, homes built after 1990 are considered newer, while homes built prior to 1920 are designated old or antique. 

Many people think of older homes as having better materials and workmanship than newer (or new) construction. This is not always true. Even when it is, older homes may show issues of wear and tear, deteriorating conditions, and obsolete systems. With this in mind, let’s take a look at some common dangers that may lurk in older homes, especially if you are thinking of purchasing one.

Out, out damp spot!

Moisture has a way of finding its way through the walls, roof, or below the ground level of houses. While this can occur in houses of all ages, older homes that have lacked proper maintenance are especially susceptible to penetrating dampness. Some known culprits for dampness are missing or damaged roof tiles or shingles, deteriorating or poorly sealed flashing, leaking or damaged rain gutters, gaps in doors and windows, foundation cracks, and damaged or deteriorating siding. Also, brick and stone work can deteriorate with age, and become more porous and susceptible to frost or storm damage.  Water stains on ceilings or interior walls is a sure sign of penetrating dampness. If not repaired, water continues to enter, especially during heavy rainfall. Droplets of water on walls or ceilings is another bad sign. Damp areas are cooler than the surrounding wall, and condensation forms on the surface. Depending upon the cause of water intrusion, repairs can be costly, such as putting on a new roof, repairing the foundation, or replacing exterior siding. If the dampness is not resolved, it can lead to our next hidden danger. 

Breaking the mold 

Always check an older home for signs of previous water damage. If the underlying cause was fixed, but the areas were never properly dried, mold is likely to be present. In the presence of moisture, organic material, warmth, and oxygen, mold can sprout quickly and rapidly spread. How serious is mold? According to the  Centers for Disease Control (CDC) the Institute of Medicine (IOM) found “sufficient evidence to link indoor mold exposure with upper respiratory tract symptoms, cough, and wheeze in otherwise healthy people; with asthma symptoms in people with asthma; and with hypersensitivity pneumonitis in individuals susceptible to that immune-mediated condition.” Small patches of mold can be cured with a spray-on mold remover. Larger infestations will require the services of a professional to eliminate. Keep in mind that the mold you see may be just the tip of the iceberg. Ask your home inspector to check for more serious signs of mold.

Get the lead out! 

Older homes can be dazzling with ornate doors and intricate windows. However, these charming features may harbor a potential danger: lead paint. Homes prior to the 1970s likely contain lead in some of these original features. Until the mid-60s, lead paint was commonly used on windows, doors, and other woodwork. In some cases, lead paint may be buried under layers of subsequent paint jobs. If undisturbed it poses no problem, but if you intend to sand or strip and repaint wood features, it’s best to err on the side of caution and consult a professional. 

When lead paint begins to deteriorate, it can release dust which can cause serious health issues if inhaled, such as kidney, nerve and brain damage, and infertility. That’s why if lead paint is suspected, it must be removed by professionals. One way of recognizing lead paint is by its unique pattern of deterioration. While other paints peel as they age, lead paint cracks in very distinct rectangle patterns. If you’re unsure if paint in your home contains lead, call your home inspector for a professional evaluation. Home buyers must receive notice of possible lead paint, and contracts can be contingent on a successful lead inspection.      

Find EPA lead paint guidelines here.

Asbestos 

Homes built prior to 1970 are more likely to have asbestos. Asbestos can be found in insulating materials, roof shingles, ceiling and floor tiles, and around furnaces and boilers, where fire resistance is desired. 

Why is asbestos dangerous? If asbestos is sitting intact and dormant it doesn’t pose much risk. However, when disturbed, asbestos fibers are release into the air. When inhaled they can cause serious respiratory illnesses and even a serious, fatal form of cancer called Mesothelioma.   

If you are renovating your home and you suspect asbestos-containing materials, or you have disturbed asbestos during your work, then stop work immediately, and call the appropriate state agency for guidance.  

Click here for North Carolina asbestos abatement guidelines and resources.

A shocking situation 

Odds are that the electrical system in an older home is just as old as the home itself. Old electrical systems and wiring may include hidden dangers. Many homes built prior to the mid-70s have two-prong, ungrounded electrical outlets. In 1969 Underwriters Laboratories mandated three-prong plugs on major appliances for safety. Trouble is, only half of the receptacles in US homes were three-prong at that time. Wiring in most homes did not include a grounding wire. Ungrounded systems increase the risk of electrical shock in the event of circuit failures.   

Unfortunately, in a significant number of homes, three-prong outlets were installed without a grounding wire being added. Without the grounding wire, a three-prong receptacle is no safer than a two-prong. That’s why it’s important for your inspector to check all the home’s receptacles to know what is really there. 

Another potential problem in older homes is aluminum wiring. Copper wiring is safer and far less flammable. Aluminum wire is 50% more likely to cause a fire due to its high operating temperature. Faulty and aging wiring is one of the main causes of fires in homes.  See our May 2020 blog on home fire safety for more information. Damaged plugs, sockets and frayed cables can cause shocks, deadly electrocution, burns, and devastating home fires. These are some warning signs of a faulty electrical system:

• Dim or flickering lights
• Electrical interference (static) on your television
• Frequent circuit breaker tripping
• Sparks or sizzling sounds from sockets
• Acrid burning smells
• Warm or hot switches or sockets

If you notice any of these signs, call an electrician immediately.  If you’re not sure about the age of your electrical system, make an appointment with your home inspector. In fact, it’s a good idea to have your home’s electrical system inspected every ten years. Electricity must not be taken lightly. It can kill you or destroy your home.

It’s a gas gas gas! 

Electricity is not the only potential killer lurking in an older home. Carbon monoxide gas is known as the “silent killer,” because it is odorless, tasteless, and colorless, and it can smack you with a fatal dose without you even being aware of it. Caused by incomplete burning of carbon-based fuels, carbon monoxide may be an issue in older homes if the furnace or other oil or gas burning heaters have been neglected and allowed to deteriorate. Low-level exposure to carbon monoxide can cause flu-like symptoms that ease off when you’re away from the property. These can include:

• Headaches
• Dizziness
• Nausea and vomiting
• Tiredness and confusion
• Stomach pain
• Difficulty breathing / shortness of breath

Higher levels of exposure are more serious, and may cause these symptoms:

• Loss of physical coordination
• Increased heart rate
• Chest pains
• Changes in behavior/mental impairment
• Vertigo
• Seizures
• Loss of consciousness
• Death

The best way to keep yourself and your family safe is to install carbon monoxide detectors in your home. Install one in the room where a carbon burning device is being used, and install them in main living areas, such as outside bedrooms. If your carbon monoxide detector is ever triggered, get out of the house immediately and call your gas company from a safe distance.  

Don’t let these potential dangers scare you away. Older homes have their charm. As the saying goes, forewarned is forearmed. When your inspector knows what to look for, you can buy that older home with confidence.

Call Peter Young Home Inspections 

Buying or selling a home? Never sign any contract without first getting a home inspection!  Call Asheville Home Inspector Peter Young, 828-808-4980, or click here to make an appointment today.

The post Hidden dangers may lurk in older homes appeared first on Peter Young Home Inspections.

Once upon a time, Asheville basements were little more than overgrown utility areas for storing unsightly items, housing the furnace, electrical panels, and maybe even a washer and dryer. In these times, with above ground living space getting so expensive, basements have seen a transformation into living spaces, such as rec rooms with pool tables, home theater systems, or even full bedrooms and bathrooms. This may be a convenient and inexpensive way to claim more living space in your home, but if some common basement problems are not overcome first, occupants of these spaces may be putting their health at risk. Even if you don’t use your basement as a living space, some of the problems down there can affect the rest of the house. This is why a basement inspection by a licensed home inspector is essential. There are three types of basements: 

• Unfinished
• Partially finished
• Finished 

With some variations, the same or similar problems can exist in all three.

Unfinished basements

An unfinished basement is an old-school, bare bones concrete room with no drywall, flooring, or furniture. It might be a laundry room, Dad’s workshop, or a creepy, musty storage room. Even though an unfinished basement does not count as square footage in a real estate transaction, home inspectors are required to inspect them and report any uncovered defects. Since unfinished Asheville basements have bare concrete walls, it is relatively easy for an inspector to spot a variety of issues. Here are some common problems. 

Mold & Mildew 

A stale and musty odor is a sign of water intrusion in a basement. The odor is from mold, and it means the basement is not dry. Eliminating the odor means cleaning and drying the walls, woodwork, and whatever you have stored down there. But you can’t stop there; you must find and eradicate the source of the moisture. If your land slopes toward your house, moisture intrusion will always be a problem in your basement. If you get standing water down there, you will need to install a sump pump. If it just always feels and smells moist, perhaps a dehumidifier will do. 

White residual deposits

Also called efflorescence, white residual deposits are found in basements that have water issues. The white residue is not a health risk of itself, but it can be an indicator of cracks in the foundation or walls in an unfinished basement. Cracks in the walls and floor may be superficial, but they also could be a problematic source of water intrusion. Your home inspector can determine whether the cracks are cosmetic or structural. 

Structural Defects 

Problems with walls, ceilings, and beams are easy to spot in an unfinished basement. Shoddy or incomplete joists can cause problems in the floors above. Past or present water issues can cause significant rot in wood joists, which in turn can create structural problems. 

Pest Infestations 

Roaches, ants, termites, and rodents may find a damp basement attractive. If the problem is moisture-related, it will not go away without drying up and eliminating the source of moisture. If you see signs of pests in your Asheville basement, your home inspector can arrange for a pest inspection.   

Dangerous fumes 

Basements can be contaminated with hazardous fumes. These are caused by several factors: 

• Stored solvents – since basements are used as storage spaces for household chemicals, such as paint, cleaning supplies, and solvents, be sure none of these are leaking. Prolonged exposure to chemical fumes can be dangerous to your health.
• Carbon monoxide – many homes have their furnaces in the basement. This should be inspected regularly for safe operation. When not maintained, furnaces can leak deadly carbon monoxide. Keep a carbon monoxide detector in your basement and one at the top of the stairs where you can hear it if it goes off. If the alarm sounds, get out of the house quickly and call your gas company from a safe distance.
• Radon gas – produced by the radioactive decay of uranium, radon can be found in the soil, rocks, and even in the air. Outdoors it poses no danger, but in the confines of a basement it can build up to dangerous levels. Radon levels are very hit or miss in Western North Carolina, and radon is the second leading cause of lung cancer. Your home inspector can arrange for a radon inspection. If an inspection reveals high radon levels, have your home treated by a radon remediation expert.

Partially finished basements 

A partially finished basement is just what it sounds like. Part of it is bare, but another part may have some sort of living space, such as a game room, entertainment room, workshop, or even a home office space. It may have a bathroom, but not bedrooms. There might be some drywall, but the floor could be concrete with a drain in the middle.  One thing to consider seriously: If you are spending a lot of time in an unfinished basement, you need to be sure it is a safe environment. The problems mentioned above (mold, fumes, radon, etc.) need to be addressed before spending much time down there.

Finished Basements 

A finished Asheville basement can be anything from a large, open area with flooring, a ceiling and drywall, to a complete living area with bedrooms, a bathroom, and even a kitchen. For a finished basement to count as square footage in a North Carolina real estate listing (MLS), it must be considered “heated space.” However, even if it doesn’t count as heated square footage, a well-constructed finished basement can still add considerable value to a home. 

Finished basements are not as easy to inspect as bare basements. Drywall and flooring can cover up structural defects and signs of previous water damage. If intended as living quarters, it is essential to check for mold issues, air quality, and test for radon. When a home has a finished basement, a radon inspector will set the test there. However, for homes with unfinished basements, the inspector will set up the test above grade on the first floor. Whatever type of basement a home contains, it is always best to have it checked out thoroughly by a licensed home inspector to rule out serious issues.  

Call Peter Young Home Inspections 

Buying or selling a home? Never sign any contract without first getting a home inspection!  Call Asheville Home Inspector Peter Young, 828-808-4980, or click here to make an appointment today.

The post What you should know about Asheville basements appeared first on Peter Young Home Inspections.

Homes move like lightning in the hot Asheville real estate market.

A home inspection can have a significant effect on the sale of a home. If an inspection reveals life or property-threatening problems, it can even kill the deal. Or it can send the parties back to the bargaining table to renegotiate the price or convince the seller to make some needed repairs.

What is “reasonable and customary” regarding home inspections? What findings may be deal breakers? On the other hand, which items would be considered “nitpicky” for a buyer to demand? These questions may be have varying significance, depending upon whether we are in a buyer’s or seller’s market. If there is a glut of real estate for sale, then buyers can be as choosy as they wish. However, in tighter markets, such as the Asheville real estate market and surrounding and Buncombe County, listed homes can move at lightning speed, leaving buyers in more of a take-it-or-leave-it marketplace battlefield.

This being said, let’s take a look at what items are acceptable to ask sellers to fix if an inspection brings them to light.

Substantial home inspection problems

Termite tubes run through this board.

No matter the condition of the market, if an inspection reveals defects that are structural, mechanical, or environmental, it is reasonable for the buyer to request the seller to make repairs. This means issues that could prevent or restrict use of the home. Here’s a short list:

• Leaking roof or water intrusion at the home’s foundation
• Major drainage problems
• Mold problems
• Termites and other wood-destroying pests
• Electrical defects that create safety issues
• Wildlife in the attic (bats, squirrels, raccoons, possums, etc.)
• Well water or spring issues, such as inadequate pressure or volume of water
• Plumbing problems that interfere with use of the home, such as a backed up septic system or non-functioning toilets
• Lead paint (it’s a federal requirement for sellers to disclose any lead paint findings)

This list is by no means inclusive, but it represents issues that are reasonable and customary for buyers to ask sellers to handle previous to closing.

Minor issues might seem “nitpicky”

Don’t ask the seller to stain the deck.

As mentioned earlier, homes move quickly in the hot Asheville real estate market. In this environment, sellers may become irritated if they find your demands are focused on too many small issues. Let’s face it; if a listing has ten potential buyers standing in line, the seller has the luxury of grabbing the deal that seems most advantageous. To avoid being left in the dust, there are a number of demands that are best not to make. The following list is not all-inclusive, but is intended as a good guideline.

• Cosmetic issues. Is there a cracked tile in the backsplash behind the bathroom sink? Does a deck or rail need staining? Don’t ask the seller to fix those. You must ask yourself two questions before asking a seller to make a repair. One, if you or the seller walk away from the deal, is this a problem for which the next potential buyer would  demand action; and two, would this problem interfere with your ability to get financing on the home? If the answers are no, it’s probably best to bite the bullet and keep quiet about this particular issue.
• Cracks in the basement floor. Since concrete is a porous substance, it absorbs water and has a tendency to “settle.” Concrete floor cracks are not a structural problem, and are of little concern unless they are allowing water into the basement through the floor. However, cracks in basement walls present a more serious problem and should be inspected carefully.
• Repairs costing less than $100. There may be dozens of minor issues that need to be addressed, but home closings usually have a time frame in which to make those repairs. Don’t overwhelm the seller with a daunting list of requests, or he/she may just move on to the next offer.

Don’t ask the seller to fix small issues

Choose your battles wisely. Here are a few more minor issues that you should not to ask the seller to fix if you’re trying to buy in a hot market.

• 

  This outlet had water inside and was sparking.

  Non-functioning light switches or outlets.When it comes to switches and outlets, wires can become loose. It might be just a worn-out switch or outlet, however it may be indicative of a larger electrical problem. Your home inspector will determine if the electrical system is safe, or if there might be a more serious issue. Repairing a few old switches and outlets is usually inexpensive, so don’t insist on every switch working or looking like new. Wet areas (kitchens and bathrooms) should have GFCI outlets installed. However, many older homes don’t have them. Don’t stress over it. They are very easy to install by a qualified electrician.

• Cosmetic landscaping or small yard issues. While it’s important for a home to have “curb appeal,” you should not expect the seller to replenish the flower beds or trim trees as a condition of the sale. Nor should you ask the seller to level those few bricks in the garden path or remove the dandelions in the front yard – not unless you want to risk having your offer passed over.
• Loose fixtures, knobs, etc.If you find light fixtures, doorknobs, or even railings to be loose, this is some of the “small stuff” we’re always urged not to sweat. While a loose railing may be inconvenient or even unsafe, these kinds of problems can be solved most of the time by walking around with a few basic hand tools. Unless your inspector finds wood rot, decay, or major safety issues, it’s best to avoid asking the seller to take care of it.

Strike a balance

Know the difference between essential and non-essential repairs, and always keep the market in mind. In a “buyer’s market,” you have much more leeway to make demands of the seller. However, in a “seller’s market,” you don’t want to risk losing the sale by seeming too unreasonable, demanding, or nitpicky.

Buying or selling a home in the Asheville real estate market? Avoid unpleasant surprises! Don’t sign a contract before calling Asheville home inspector Peter Young. Click the orange button below to make an appointment.

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