Freezing temperatures, howling winds, and ice dams the size of Samurai swords…

Spring is finally here! The birds are singing, daffodils are pushing through the soil, and your house is groaning like it just woke up from a three-month bender.

Truth is, winter is incredibly tough on your home. Between freezing temperatures, howling winds, and ice dams the size of Samurai swords, your beloved abode has been working overtime just to keep you from turning into a human popsicle. 

Now that spring has sprung, your house has a massive “winter hangover.” It’s creaky, it’s leaky, and there’s a distinct possibility it’s hiding some regrettable decisions in the basement.

Here at Peter Young Home Inspections, we know what winter can do! Think of us as the metaphorical aspirin and strong cup of black coffee your home desperately needs right now. To help you nurse your property back to health, we’ve put together this nifty spring recovery guide.

Roofs and Gutters: Curing the Hangover

Your roof took the brunt of winter’s wrath. It wore a heavy bonnet of snow and ice without complaining, but now it’s feeling the aftereffects.

• The Shingle Check: Grab a pair of binoculars (so you don’t actually have to climb a ladder right now) and scan your roof from the yard.
• Look for missing, cracked, or curling shingles. Winter winds love to rip these off, leaving your roof exposed to spring showers.
  • The Remedy: If you spot damage, call a local roofing professional to patch in new shingles. Unless you have excellent balance or a death wish, leave steep roof repairs to the pros.
• The Gutter Cleanse: Your gutters are currently stuffed with wet leaves, twigs, and whatever treasures the neighborhood squirrels decided to hoard. Have you heard about the lady who found Elvis in her gutters?
  • The Remedy: Grab a sturdy ladder, a pair of thick gloves, and a bucket. Scoop out the muck, then flush the gutters with a garden hose to make sure the downspouts are clear. Reattach any gutters that are pulling away from the fascia board.

• The Gutter Cleanse: Your gutters are currently stuffed with wet leaves, twigs, and whatever treasures the neighborhood squirrels decided to hoard. Have you heard about the lady who found Elvis in her gutters?
  • The Remedy: Grab a sturdy ladder, a pair of thick gloves, and a bucket. Scoop out the muck, then flush the gutters with a garden hose to make sure the downspouts are clear. Reattach any gutters that are pulling away from the fascia board.

Foundation & Exterior: Treating Dry, Cracked Skin

When the ground freezes and thaws, it expands and contracts. This phenomenon, known as frost heave, can do a number on your foundation and exterior.

• Hunt for Cracks: Take a slow walk around the perimeter of your house. Look for new cracks in the foundation, brickwork, or stucco.
  • The Remedy: Small, hairline cracks can easily be sealed with a polyurethane masonry caulk to keep moisture and bugs out. However, if the crack is wider than a penny or looks like a jagged staircase, skip the DIY and call a structural engineer.
• Check the Grading: The dirt around your house should slope away from your foundation. Winter has a sneaky way of eroding this soil.
  • The Remedy: Grab a shovel and pack some dense topsoil (not mulch, which retains water) around the foundation. Tamp it down so it creates a gentle downward slope away from your house, redirecting rainwater into the yard and out of your basement.

Attic & Basement: Evicting Uninvited Guests

When the temperature dropped last winter, every critter in the neighborhood started looking for a warm place to crash. 

Unfortunately, your attic and basement were the hottest clubs in town.

Check the Grading: The dirt around your house should slope away from your foundation. Winter has a sneaky way of eroding this soil.

• The Basement Sweep:  Go downstairs with a good flashlight. You are looking for moisture, efflorescence (that powdery white stuff on concrete), or a musty smell that screams “mold.”
  • The Remedy: If the air feels damp, invest in a good dehumidifier and let it run continuously. If you find active puddles, trace the source and seal the interior concrete walls with waterproofing paint.
• The Attic Inspection: Pop your head into the attic. Look for shredded insulation, droppings, or daylight peeking through the roof boards.
  • The Remedy: If you find evidence of a rodent rave, you need to evict them. Seal off entry points from the outside using steel wool and caulk (mice can’t chew through steel wool). Set traps inside, or better yet, call a pest control service to play bouncer and clear the room.

Windows & Doors: Fixing Creaky, Leaky Joints

Grab a caulking gun and run a fresh bead of exterior-grade silicone caulk around the window frames.

Winter is notorious for ruining weatherstripping. Expanding ice and shrinking wood can leave your windows and doors feeling woozy and off-balance.

• The Breeze Test: On a windy spring day, run your hand around the edges of your closed windows and doors. If you feel a breeze, your weatherstripping has given up the ghost.
• The Remedy: Peel off the old, cracked weatherstripping and wipe the door jamb or window frame clean. Apply new self-adhesive foam or rubber stripping. For the exterior, grab a caulking gun and run a fresh bead of exterior-grade silicone caulk around the window frames to seal out the spring rain.

Need a Professional Diagnosis?

Nursing a house through a winter hangover takes time, effort, and a keen eye. While this DIY checklist is a great place to start, sometimes you need a professional to give it the real hairy eyeball!

If you notice something concerning, or if you just want the peace of mind that comes from knowing your home is in top shape for the year ahead, we’re here to help. We’ll comb through your home from the chimney to the basement floor, giving you a comprehensive breakdown of what’s working, what’s not, and what needs a little TLC.

Don’t let your house suffer through spring. Give us a call today , and let’s get your home ready to enjoy the sunshine!

Buying or selling a home in WNC?

Avoid unpleasant surprises! Contact Asheville Home Inspector Peter Young before signing any contracts. Call (828) 808-4980, or click here to make an appointment.

The post Winter Home Hangover: A Guide to Spring Detox appeared first on Peter Young Home Inspections.

As a home inspector, I’ve been places you couldn’t pay me enough to go if it wasn’t literally my job. I’ve shimmied into attics hotter than the surface of the sun and squeezed behind furnaces that haven’t been cleaned since the Carter administration. But nothing—and I mean nothing—competes with the crawlspace.

In the hierarchy of “Places Homeowners Don’t Want to Go,” the crawlspace is the undisputed champion. It’s dark, it’s cramped, and it’s usually home to an unsettling number of spiders that look surprisingly like weightlifters. Because it’s unpleasant, the crawlspace suffers from a severe case of “out of sight, out of mind.” You shut that little access door, walk away, and pretend the space below your subfloor doesn’t exist.

Here is an uncomfortable truth I have to deliver to clients often: Ignoring your crawlspace is like ignoring a cavity. It doesn’t get better on its own; it just gets more expensive and painful to fix.

In a crawlspace, the root of nearly all evil is moisture. A wet crawlspace is an active petri dish trying to consume your house from the bottom up.

If you’ve been blissfully ignoring that damp dungeon beneath your feet, here are a few reasons why you need to grab a flashlight (or better yet, HIRE ME to grab a flashlight) and find out what’s going on down there.

The Stack Effect (Why Your House Smells Like Dirt)

Before we get to the disasters, let’s have a quick science lesson. Your house operates like a giant chimney. Hot air rises and escapes out of your attic. To replace that air, your house sucks in new air from the lowest points—usually the crawlspace.

Building scientists call this the “stack effect.” I call it “inhaling the swamp.” Is your crawlspace damp, moldy, and smelling like a wet dog that rolled in mushrooms? Guess what? That’s the air you are breathing in your living room. 

Up to 50% of the air on your first floor originated in your crawlspace. If that doesn’t gross you out, nothing will.

Problem #1: The Structural Buffet

Your house is likely made of wood. The wood used for framing, joists, and subflooring needs to be dry. When crawlspace humidity gets above 70%, that wood starts absorbing moisture like a sponge.

Do you know what loves damp wood? Rot fungus.

I’ve been in crawlspaces where I could stick my screwdriver handle-deep into a main support beam because it had the consistency of wet cardboard. When wood rots, it loses its structural integrity. This leads to sagging floors, doors that suddenly stick, and cracks in your drywall upstairs. In a worst-case scenario, the whole structure could come tumbling down like a house of cards!

If your kitchen floor has started to feel “bouncy” when you walk across it, it’s not because your home is morphing into a backyard party bounce house. It’s because the joists below are transforming into mulch.

Problem #2: The Pest Party

Water is life. Unfortunately, that applies to pests, too. A dry crawlspace is an inhospitable desert to bugs. A wet crawlspace is an all-inclusive resort.

Termites are attracted to moisture. They don’t just want wood; they want soft, damp wood that’s easy to chew. 

A wet crawlspace is practically rolling out the red carpet for them.

Furthermore, high moisture attracts camel crickets (also known as sprickets). If you’ve never encountered one, they look like a spider and a shrimp had a terrifying baby that jumps directly at your face when startled. They love damp environments. Drying out the crawlspace is the only way to evict them permanently.

Problem #3: The Mold Explosion

Mold is the four-letter word of real estate. Lenders consider mold a major risk to the property’s value and structural integrity, often requiring professional remediation and a clean inspection report before final loan approval. 

Mold needs three things to thrive: food (your wood framing), appropriate temperature (crawlspaces are warm and snuggly), and moisture.

If you have a damp crawlspace, you almost certainly have mold growth. It might look white and fuzzy, or black and patchy on the floor joists. 

Remember the stack effect? Those mold spores don’t stay downstairs. They hitch a ride on rising air currents and enter your living space, potentially aggravating allergies and asthma. If your house has a persistent, musty “old basement” smell that no amount of scented candles can mask, that eau de stank is likely coming from under the house.

Ignorance Is NOT bliss! Stop Ignoring It.

Look, I get it. You don’t want to go down there. It’s gross.

But if you do start to notice musty smells, cupping hardwood floors, high indoor humidity, or a sudden increase in creepy-crawlies, take heed. “Just open the vents in the summer” is actually terrible advice. In humid climates it brings more wet air in to condense on cool surfaces.

So, it’s time to move from “everything is ruined” to “here’s how we save the house.” In the world of home inspections, we generally look at a hierarchy of fixes depending on whether you have a minor dampness issue or a full-blown subterranean swamp.

Here is a breakdown of how to actually dry out the dungeon.

1. The Vapor Barrier (The “Must-Have” Minimum)

Think of a vapor barrier as a raincoat for your crawlspace floor. Even if the ground looks dry, the earth is constantly “exhaling” moisture. A vapor barrier, usually a heavy-duty plastic (polyethylene) sheeting, is laid over the soil to stop that moisture from rising.

• Standard Grade: Most builders throw down a 6-mil plastic sheet. It’s better than nothing, but it’s thin and tears if you so much as look at it funny.
• Pro Grade: We recommend 10-mil to 20-mil reinforced plastic. It’s tough enough to crawl on without ripping, and it stays in place.

2. Diversion and Drainage

If you have actual standing water after a rainstorm, a plastic sheet isn’t the answer. You’ll just have a very expensive indoor swimming pool under your house.

• Gutters and Downspouts: I can’t tell you how many “wet crawlspace” issues are actually just clogged gutter issues. If your downspouts dump water right next to the foundation, gravity will do the rest.
• Sump Pumps: If the water table is high or the terrain forces water toward your house, you need a sump pump. It’s a bucket in the ground with a pump that says, “Not today, water,” and flings it far away from the foundation.

Crawlspace Encapsulation (The Gold Standard)

This is the nuclear option, and it’s arguably the best thing you can do for your home’s health. Instead of just covering the floor, you seal the entire space like a Tupperware container.

What’s involved:

• Sealing the Vents: Close off those foundation vents that allow humid summer air to enter.
• Wall Liners: The heavy plastic doesn’t just sit on the floor; it’s taped and sealed several feet up the foundation walls.
• Insulation: Replacing old, fiberglass “pink stuff” (which acts like a moldy sponge) with rigid foam board on the walls.

Pro Tip: Never encapsulate your crawlspace without addressing drainage first. If you trap water behind your beautiful new plastic liners, you’re just creating a giant, hidden mold bag.

Dedicated Dehumidification

Once the space is sealed, you might need to manage the air. In that case, you can’t just use a $200 dehumidifier from a big-box store; it’ll burn out in six months or sooner trying to keep up. You need a commercial-grade, low-temperature dehumidifier specifically designed for crawlspaces. These units are costly, but they can pull gallons of water out of the air daily and drain automatically so you never have to empty a bucket.

Before you panic and buy a crate of industrial fans, get your crawlspace inspected. Let us brave the spider-gymnasts and assess the moisture levels. Your home’s foundation (and your lungs) will thank you.

Buying Or Selling A Home in WNC?

Avoid unpleasant surprises! Contact Asheville Home Inspector Peter Young before signing any contracts. Call (828) 808-4980, or click here to make an appointment.

The post Dungeon Down Under: A Wet Crawlspace Can Be Your Home’s Worst Nightmare appeared first on Peter Young Home Inspections.

Basements have a sketchy reputation. Things lurk down there: forgotten holiday decorations, that treadmill you swore you’d use, and (unfortunately) that dreaded musty smell that hints at water problems.

A wet basement is more than just an annoyance; it’s a structural liability, a potential health hazard (hello, mold!), and a destroyer of perfectly good board games. However, the mere thought of excavating your entire yard to waterproof from the outside can feel like a Herculean task, a muddy, expensive, and frankly, back-breaking endeavor. So, the question arises, with a glint of desperation in your eyes: “Can I waterproof my basement from the inside?”

The short answer, delivered with a sigh of relief, is YES. You absolutely can. 

While not always the permanent “cure-all” for every single problem, interior waterproofing methods are highly effective for patching and managing some common issues. Think of it less as a miracle cure for a sinking ship, and more as installing a robust, internal life raft. Let’s take a quick look.

Find the Source, Of Course, Of Course!

Don’t just assume the water is seeping up from a mysterious underground spring where a forgotten pirate treasure is buried (though wouldn’t that be nice?). 

Look for signs: water stains on the walls, efflorescence (that powdery white mineral deposit that looks like your wall is shedding its skin), and of course, puddles.

Is the water seeping through cracks in the foundation? Is it coming up from the floor? Pinpointing the source is the first and most crucial step.

Once you’ve identified your foe, it’s time to choose your weapon.

Your Interior Arsenal: Sealing & Drainage

One of the most popular and effective interior waterproofing methods involves a combination of sealing and drainage. This is often the go-to solution for walls that are seeping water through small cracks or porous concrete. The process typically starts with a thorough cleaning of the walls to remove any paint, debris, or efflorescence. You need a clean slate for the products to adhere properly.

Next, you can apply a waterproof paint or sealant. These specialized coatings, often sold at your local hardware store, are designed to create a barrier on the interior surface of the foundation walls. Think of it as a super-tough, water-resistant skin for your basement. While this can be a fantastic first line of defense for minor dampness, it’s not a magical fix for major leaks.

If you’re seeing a steady stream of water running down a portion of your wall, paint alone will simply peel and fail under the pressure. For more significant water intrusion, you’ll need to go a step further and install an interior drainage system. This is a game-changer. 

An interior drainage system, also known as a French drain or weeping tile system, can be installed along the perimeter of the basement floor. Dig a trench, put a perforated pipe inside, and cover it with gravel. 

This system’s genius lies in its ability to capture water as it enters the basement from the walls and floors, and then channel it to a sump pump. The sump pump, a hero in its own right, then ejects the water safely away from your home. This method doesn’t stop the water from entering, but it brilliantly controls and redirects it, keeping your basement floor dry and your sanity intact. We highly recommend hiring a professional to set this all up.

Hydraulic Cements and Sealants

Another tool in your internal waterproofing arsenal is hydraulic cement. This isn’t your average concrete; it’s a fast-setting material specifically designed to stop active water leaks.

If you have a specific, gushing crack in your foundation wall, hydraulic cement can be a lifesaver.

It expands as it sets, creating a tight seal that even a determined drip will have a hard time getting past. Applying cement can feel like a high-stakes, race-against-the-clock kind of project, but the satisfaction of watching a leak disappear is unmatched.

Finally, don’t underestimate the power of simply sealing cracks. For smaller, hairline cracks in the floor or walls, using a quality concrete crack sealant can make a world of difference. It’s a bit like putting a band-aid on a scrape. It’s not for a gaping wound, but it’s perfect for preventing a small problem from becoming a big one.

Look Beyond the Walls

So, you’ve painted, drained, and sealed, and your basement is now a dry, usable space where you can finally set up that home gym without fear of your rowing machine floating away. Give yourself a high five!

But here’s the crucial point, the grand finale, the “but wait, there’s more!” of the waterproofing world.

While interior waterproofing is a brilliant and effective solution for many basement woes, it’s crucial to understand what it’s doing. It’s managing the water, not necessarily stopping its source. If you have a significant issue with exterior hydrostatic pressure – water building up against the outside of your foundation walls and actively pushing its way in – interior solutions are a powerful defense, but they aren’t addressing the root cause. This is where you have to look outside. 

Poor grading, clogged gutters, or a failing exterior foundation drain can all be the true culprits. You’ve fixed the symptoms, but to ensure your basement stays dry for the long haul, you may need to address the source of the problem by improving your yard’s drainage and ensuring water is directed away from your home’s foundation. It’s the difference between patching a leaky roof and just putting buckets under the drips. Both will work, but only one is a real fix. 

So, enjoy your dry basement, but keep an eye on the bigger picture. Consider asking a professional to assess your home’s foundation.

Buying or selling a home in WNC?

Avoid unpleasant surprises! Contact Asheville Home Inspector Peter Young before signing any contracts. Call (828) 808-4980, or click here to make an appointment.

The post Out, Out, Damp Spot: A Short Guide to Waterproofing a Basement From the Inside appeared first on Peter Young Home Inspections.

Your home is likely your biggest investment, and its stability literally rests on its foundation. While often out of sight, your foundation supports the entire structure, sort of like the mythical Atlas carrying the heavens on his shoulders. 

But what happens when that hero starts to falter? Recognizing early warning signs of foundation issues is more than just aesthetics; it’s about your home’s safety and longevity.

The specter of foundation problems can be terrifying, spawning nightmares of bleeding money. However, not every creak or crack spells disaster. The key is knowing what to look for and when to call professionals. 

Your home is communicating with you. Learn its language to know what it’s trying to tell you. And no, we’re not talking about it whispering sweet nothings, but rather, hinting at structural woes.

Cracking up!

Cracks are perhaps the most common and alarming sign. Minor hairline cracks in plaster or drywall can simply be normal house settling or humidity changes. Think of them as your home’s stretch marks. The cracks demanding your attention indicate structural movement.

Foundation cracks are a significant red flag. Check exterior and interior walls for vertical, horizontal, or stair-step cracks, especially around doors and windows. Pay attention to cracks wider than a quarter-inch, or those that grow over time.

Don’t forget to look down! Floor cracks, especially if wide or uneven, can indicate foundation problems. Similarly, drywall cracks, particularly diagonal ones radiating from door and window corners, often signal a shifting structure. If your drywall looks like the roadmap from your last vacation, then it’s time to pay attention.

Doors and windows: The sticky truth

Beyond cracks, your doors and windows can be surprisingly vocal. Difficulty opening or closing them isn’t just annoying; it can be a significant indicator. When a foundation shifts, it can distort frames, causing them to bind or become jammed. If your doors are playing hard to get, or your windows are staging a silent protest, your foundation might be throwing a tantrum.

Even more telling are gaps between exterior windows and walls. If you see light or feel a draft where the window frame meets the wall, it suggests the foundation is moving, pulling the wall away. These gaps compromise energy efficiency and can allow moisture intrusion.

Floors and Walls: A crooked tale

Inside, pay close attention to your floors and walls. Uneven floors, where you feel a noticeable slope or dip, are a classic sign of foundation settlement. This indicates a section of your foundation has sunk or shifted. If walking through your living room feels like navigating a funhouse, your foundation might be the culprit. Similarly, sagging floors can also point to what lies below.

Now, look at your walls. Are they straight, or are they beginning to bow inward? Bowing walls are a serious concern, indicating significant pressure that the foundation can no longer withstand.

If your walls are starting to look like they’re doing the limbo, it’s time for a professional assessment.

What about that stately chimney? A cracked or leaning chimney is another strong indicator. Because chimneys are heavy and independent, they’re highly susceptible to foundation movement. If your chimney seems to be pulling away or is visibly tilted, like it’s had one too many, it’s a clear sign something is amiss below.

Finally, those subtle (or not-so-subtle) gaps between walls and floors are also red flags. As the foundation shifts, it can create separation, allowing drafts or even pests. Nobody wants a gap that lets in a draft and a family of freeloading mice.

Other indicators: The silent whispers

Sometimes, signs aren’t outwardly visible but are equally important. A musty smell, particularly in your basement or crawl space, often signals water intrusion.

While water doesn’t directly damage the foundation’s structural integrity, it can lead to hydrostatic pressure, soil erosion, and mold growth, all of which compromise the foundation. 

Therefore, basement water leaks are a serious indicator. If your basement smells like a forgotten gym sock, it’s more than a sign you need to air it out. It’s a strong hint of possible foundation problems.

Look at any concrete or brick work around your home, like patios or walkways. If you notice uneven concrete or brick, it could be a sign of settling or shifting of the underlying ground, which can impact your home’s foundation. Your perfectly laid patio shouldn’t look like a topographical map.

When to call the professionals

Observing one or two of these signs doesn’t necessarily mean your home is crumbling like a stale cupcake. However, if you notice a combination of several signs, or if any are pronounced and worsening, it’s crucial to seek professional help. A qualified foundation specialist can diagnose the root cause and recommend appropriate action. Ignoring these warning signs can lead to more extensive damage and significantly higher repair costs. 

By learning to recognize the silent language of foundation issues, you can protect your investment and ensure your home remains on solid ground for years to come. So, next time your door sticks, or you spot a new crack, don’t just sigh and blame the weather. Your home might be crying out for attention. Are you listening?

Buying or selling a home in Western North Carolina?

Avoid unpleasant surprises! Contact Asheville Home Inspector Peter Young before signing any contracts. Call (828) 808-4980, or click here to make an appointment.

The post Is your home on shaky ground? The silent language of foundation problems appeared first on Peter Young Home Inspections.

People often ask if a home inspection can kill a real estate deal? The simple answer would be no. An inspection of itself is not the reason deals are called off. However, there are times when the inspector finds serious issues with a house, which can cause negotiations between buyer and seller to break down, and the deal may fall apart.

First, let’s define the role of a home inspector. An inspector is a professional hired by buyers or sellers to carefully inspect a house and inform you of things that may be broken and in need of repair or replacing. When he or she does find issues in a home, the report may recommend seeking out an “expert,” such as a licensed electrician, roofer, plumber, or HVAC specialist for further evaluation or remediation. That’s because most of the time, inspectors are not licensed in these fields.

In most cases, the buyer hires the inspector and pays him to do his job and present his report. There are times when an inspection may uncover serious issues that may cause buyers to walk away from the deal. However, the inspector presents the findings in a neutral fashion, without getting involved in negotiations between the seller and the buyer.

As a home buyer, do you need an inspection? That’s a resounding YES! North Carolina is a “buyer beware” state. As a buyer, it is your responsibility to learn everything you can about a property before signing on the dotted line. When trouble is found, you can request repairs or a discount for the cost of the repairs, but if the seller won’t budge, you have the option of walking away from the deal.

The greater Asheville area is still a hot seller’s market, so negotiation may be off the table for small issues, but major defects are a different matter entirely. Let’s take a peek at some of the discoveries that sometimes derail the sale of a home.

Water damage and mold

Mold forms from damp or even wet conditions. Moisture in the house can come from a leak in the roof or chimney, cracked foundation walls, flooding, failing siding, and more.

Mold in the attic or basement left unchecked can cause problems in the home’s interior.

If you find mold and moisture on the insulation in your attic, make an appointment with a licensed roofing company to find and eliminate the problem at its source. Then you’ll need to consult a mold remediation company to clean it up.

Water and mold in homes may cause some buyers to walk away from the deal.

Major foundation issues

A home’s foundation is the core upon which the structure rests. Major problems with the foundation will likely reveal other issues in the home, such as:

• Uneven floors
• Sticking or tilted doors and windows
• Dampness or water in the basement

Minor cracks in the foundation are normal, since all houses settle over time. However, large cracks can be a cause of concern and require a foundation expert to estimate the potential cost of repair.

Major foundation repairs can range in the tens of thousands of dollars. Discuss solutions with the seller, such as getting them to repair the problem. This may have to be fixed before the deal can go through, because lenders may reject a property with serious foundation issues. If the seller refuses, then the buyer might choose to end the deal.

Roof repair or replacement

A roof is more than just a barrier from the elements. It helps maintain the home’s structural integrity. Instructors will look for loose or missing shingles, soft spots, and signs of water damage. Even relatively new roofs can lose shingles in storms. These are easily replaceable, but rotted wood underneath the shingles can be an expensive fix and may signal the need for complete roof replacement.

Can complete roof replacement be a deal-breaker? That depends. If the roof is shot and needs immediate replacement, some folks will amend their offer, or they might request the seller make the repairs, or they might just walk away from the deal.

Finding asbestos in the home

Older homes may have asbestos, which, when disturbed, can cause a fatal form of lung cancer called mesothelioma. Before being banned in the USA, asbestos could be found in flooring, drywall, attic insulation, siding, and pipe insulation.

The problem occurs if you’re doing renovation and repairs, and the material breaks up and gets into the air (and into your lungs). If you have this in your home and you plan on doing renovations, then you will need to get the material tested and removed by an accredited and reputable environmental contractor. This can be costly (up to $20 per square foot) and may become a deal-breaker.

Polybutylene piping

Polybutylene piping is a type of plastic resin used for indoor plumbing in homes from the late 70s through late 90s. The most common color of “Poly B” was light gray, but there were other colors, such as blue, silver, black, or white, depending upon region and manufacturer.

The main problem with Poly B piping in homes was its susceptibility to degradation and eventual failure over time, resulting in leaks and burst pipes, and causing sometimes catastrophic water damage. 

There are other types of plastic pipes found in homes, but if they are gray and flexible, chances are they are Poly B. Your home inspector should be able to identify them, or may recommend getting a licensed plumber to confirm the findings. Many homes built with Poly B are likely facing the need for replacement with more reliable materials.

Depending upon size, repair costs can range from several thousand dollars to more than $15,000. Discovery of Poly B is, at the very least, a reason for renegotiating a home’s selling price.

Dangerous or outdated electrical system

Two potential sticking points in home deals are aluminum electrical wiring and old-fashioned knob and tube wiring. Aluminum wiring can be trouble, because the connection to outlets, switches, fixtures, and lights can become overheated. Continual heating and cooling can result in loose connections and fires. Many insurance companies will not underwrite homes with aluminum wiring.

Knob and tube wiring lacks a ground wire for safety. An easy way to spot it is all the electrical outlets in the home have only two-prongs.

Electrical repairs and wiring upgrades can be pricey, and some buyers may choose to walk if the seller won’t budge on the price or opt to do the repair.

The need for speed!

If your inspection report reveals serious issues in the home, begin negotiations with the seller immediately, and if you do need to walk away, do it quickly. Your purchase agreement usually contains clauses about a bad inspection report of a low home appraisal. 

Your realtor and attorney can advise you on withdrawing your offer and arranging to get your earnest money returned. Then you’ll be free to find another, more suitable home for your needs.

Buying or selling a home in Western North Carolina?

Avoid unpleasant surprises! Contact Asheville Home Inspector Peter Young before signing any contracts. Call (828) 808-4980, or click here to make an appointment.

The post Potential home inspection deal-breakers appeared first on Peter Young Home Inspections.

People often ask, “What is radon, and do I need to be concerned about it?” 

Let’s address this as two questions. First, radon is an invisible, odorless, and tasteless gas produced by the natural decay of uranium in soil and water. Nationwide, radon gas is the second leading cause of lung cancer after cigarette smoking. Speaking of cigarettes, statistics show that smokers are 10 times more likely to die of cancer when radon is present in the home. 

The US Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) reports the national average radon level is 1.3pCi/L (picocuries per liter of air). In 2012 the State of North Carolina reported that several counties in WNC had radon levels higher than the national average, including Buncombe 3.2 pCi/L, Swain 5.3, Jackson 3, Graham 5.5, Cherokee 5.5 and Macon 2.5. Readings vary across the region, and the radon level in your home can vary greatly from your next door neighbors.

Now for the second half of the question, “Do I need to be concerned about it?” The easy answer is yes. The EPA recommends that all homes be tested for radon and mitigated if the radon concentration is 4 picocuries per liter (pCi/L) or higher.

Click here to learn more about radon and your health from the Centers for Disease Control (CDC).

So, how can you find out your home’s radon levels, and what should you do about it if your levels are too high? Let’s take a look.

Testing 1-2-3

Get your home tested for radon. Call Asheville Home Inspector Peter Young, (828) 808-4980, to arrange a test. 

Although the EPA recommends taking action if your home tests at 4.0 picocuries per liter (pCi/L) or above, the World Health Organization recommends a more cautious action level of 2.7 pCi/L. 

Mitigating circumstances

If your test reveals a high level of radon in your home, you’ll need to enlist the services of a professional radon mitigation company. The average cost of radon mitigation is around $1,500, however costs can vary from $1,000 to about $2,500, depending on specific circumstances. 

The mitigation specialists will install a device to remove radon from your home. 

Here’s a link about how radon mitigation works from the State of North Carolina.

How to find a reputable company

Since high radon levels are found throughout Western North Carolina, there are a host of companies waiting for your call. They’re not all created equal. Since North Carolina has no licensing requirements for radon mitigation, it’s prudent to practice caveat emptor (let the buyer beware). Here are some criteria you can use to find a good company:

• A good reputation. Customer reviews are a good place to start. Check on Google, Angi (formerly Angie’s List), the Better Business Bureau, and social media. Avoid companies with poor reviews or no reviews.
• Experience. Look for a company that’s been in business for years, rather than months. Experienced companies are likely to do a better job with placement of your radon mitigation system. 
• Certification and insurance. In addition to experience, look for a company with certification and insurance. The American Association of Radon Scientists and Technologists (AARST), a nonprofit, trade organization dedicated to the highest standards of excellence and the ethical performance of radon measurement, radon mitigation and knowledge transfer, offers certification for radon companies through the National Radon Proficiency Program. Additionally, certification paves the way for radon contractors to qualify for insurance. 
• Warranty protection. Ensure that your investment in radon mitigation is backed by a reliable warranty. Ask your radon professional what type of equipment they use and get details of their written warranty.
• Fair price. There aren’t any one-size-fits all systems for every home, so prices may vary, depending on the type of home, type of system, and type of fan. Prices tend to be competitive company to company, so be cautious about prices that are too high or too low. Some companies will lowball the initial price and then start throwing in add-ons once installation has begun. Be sure to get a reliable quote for your project from your radon professional.

System installation

When you find the right company and iron out all the details, it’s time for installation of the system. There are three factors a reputable company will consider: Aesthetics, effectiveness, and EPA/AARST/NRPP standards. 

Be sure to ask your technician to show you multiple location/install options. For example, if you have an unfinished basement that shares a common wall with a garage, the system can be vented through the garage to the roof, rather than through one of the home’s exterior walls.

Retesting

Radon mitigation is not “set and forget.” Once the system is installed and retested you can breathe easily for a while. However, the EPA suggests retesting the home every two years to be sure the system is still performing as intended.

Radon and new contruction

If you are planning new construction, ask your contractor about radon-resistant features. Some examples are gravel and plastic sheeting under the foundation, proper sealing of cracks, and the installation of a vent pipe. After your home is built with these features, don’t skip radon testing before moving in. If levels are elevated, have a radon fan installed. Click here for information from the EPA about radon-resistant features for new construction. 

In conclusion, discovering high radon levels in your home is not the end of the world. With proper testing and mitigation, the air quality in your home can be brought back to safe radon levels.

Buying or selling a home in Western North Carolina?

Avoid unpleasant surprises! Contact Asheville Home Inspector Peter Young before signing any contracts. Call (828) 808-4980, or click here to make an appointment.

The post What to do when your home tests high for radon gas appeared first on Peter Young Home Inspections.

The housing market goes on day after day, year after year, with an impressive success record. The National Association of Realtors (NAR) reports only about one in 20 real estate transactions is not completed. A small part of these don’t reach successful closing due to problems unearthed during home inspections. These are not the fault of the inspection or the inspector, but are due to serious issues with the homes themselves.

Home inspections are an essential part of any home buying transaction. They are usually paid for by the buyer. Please note that homes cannot “fail” an inspection (see our July, 2019 blog). However, an inspection may reveal unexpected problems, which (if serious enough) can kill the deal. More often, home inspection issues lead to negotiations in which the seller agrees to pay for repairs or adjusts the selling price to account for needed repairs. Without some wiggle room, deals may fail to reach completion.

So, let’s take a look at what happens after a home inspection.

Caveat emptor (let the buyer beware)

A small percentage of home buyers (about 5%) waive their right to a home inspection. This is not a good idea. 

Even if you’re purchasing a home “as is,” it is best to know what you’re getting into before signing on the dotted line. Otherwise, you may be in for a world of hurt, like the young couple in the Tom Hanks/Shelly Long movie, The Money Pit.  

Well, okay, that’s a bit extreme. But keep in mind that in North Carolina, sellers are under no obligation to disclose anything not requested. That makes it risky to buy a house that’s for sale by owner. Conversely, realtors are required to disclose known defects. However, in either case, a home inspection is critical. 

No home is perfect, not even newly-build ones, so don’t expect an inspection report that doesn’t uncover a few problems. Think of a home inspection as a way for buyers and sellers to get a realistic look at a home’s current state while bringing to light any problems that might need fixing in order to close the sale. 

For buyers, an inspection can bring some peace of mind in knowing no big surprises are in store. For sellers, an inspection can help set a realistic selling price on the house. That’s just one reason that many buyers opt for a home inspection prior to putting their house on the market.

A look under the hood

There’s no “one size fits all” home inspection. Different inspectors may focus on different areas, but there are a number of items generally covered in a home inspection. 

These include a home’s major components – in essence, the things that hold a house together – and other items that are considered essential.

Here’s what most home inspections cover:

• Roof
• Attic (with visible insulation)
• Walls
• Ceilings
• Floors
• Windows
• Doors
• HVAC
• Plumbing
• Optional septic inspection (recommended to avoid costly surprises)
• Appliances
• Electrical system
• Foundation
• Basement
• Structural components

What happens if problems are found?

The majority of problems revealed by home inspections are minor. A good rule of thumb is that if the repair costs less than the price of the home inspection, it’s best to just let it go, especially in a seller’s market. Asheville is still a strong seller’s market, even if this past year has shown a bit of cooling down.

So don’t sweat the small stuff. You may have to foot the bill for regrouting the bathtub if the seller won’t do it or adjust the price for it. It’s just the nature of the beast in today’s market.

The real issues are those relating to safety or the home’s structure. For example, if an inspection reveals a serious electrical hazard in the main junction box, this must be addressed before proceeding with the sale. It’s perfectly reasonable for the buyer to ask the seller to fix this problem. Likewise, if an inspection report reveals serious structural issues, this would be the seller’s responsibility to fix it. 

If the seller refuses, the buyer can walk away from the deal. However, it is in the best interest of both buyer and seller to come to a mutually satisfying deal.

If a seller wants to make a quicker sale, or lacks the money to make repairs, the house may be sold “as is.” An “as is” home typically sells for less, and may have fewer offers, since lenders won’t approve loans on homes with notable problems. So if you’re buying an “as is” home, an inspection is a must.

What’s next for sellers when inspections reveal serious issues?

In reality, sellers are under no obligation to make any repairs. However, FHA and VA lenders mandate repairs in the following areas:

• HVAC issues
• Structural issues
• Water damage
• Roof damage
• Electrical defects
• Plumbing issues
• Insect and pest infestations

If the seller refuses these repairs, the deal can fall through and the home may go back on the market. However, this isn’t too likely, since these same issues will arise the next time around.

Counterpoint? Or was that “counter-offer?”

The seller may decide to make a counter-offer, fixing any serious problems, but denying smaller issues. In a seller’s market, buyers will have to give up asking the seller to repair any of these items:

• Minor electrical issues, such as a faulty dimmer or cracked switch plates
• Cosmetic flaws, such as a chipped tile on the bathroom floor
• Appliances
• Window treatments
• Minor walkway or driveway cracksRepairs less than $100

If the seller makes a counter offer, the buyer generally has a few days in which to agree or terminate the sale. If an agreement is reached, there will need to be an amendment to the contract that spells out the repairs to which the buyer has agreed. Then the seller will begin the process of making the repairs. 

Sometimes repairs can’t be made before the buyer takes possession. In that case, the repairs are made as soon as possible and paid for by the seller. Most of the time, this involves an escrow agreement between the seller and the buyer.

Giving credit where credit is due

In many cases, sellers may offer a credit on the home purchase price for the cost of repairs. For example, if a roof repair is going to cost $6,000, the seller reduces the sale price by $6,000. Then the buyer can use a home equity line to pay for the repair and even save a bit in taxes for the interest payments.

The bottom line: Home inspections can lead to a flurry of activity and negotiations between seller and buyer. However, you should not even consider engaging in a home transaction without getting an inspection first.

Buying or selling a home?

Avoid unpleasant surprises! Contact Asheville Home Inspector Peter Young before signing any contracts. Call (828) 808-4980, or click here to make an appointment.

The post <strong>What comes after a home inspection?</strong> appeared first on Peter Young Home Inspections.

In our homes we rely on water in so many ways, such as baths and showers, dishwashers, washing machines, watering our lawns and plants, and more. Putting it simply, water is your friend. Until it isn’t!

When water sneaks out of where it should be, it can very quickly become your enemy, wreaking costly damage to your floors, foundation, and furnishings. Can it happen to you? It sure can! A majority of homes will spring a water leak. Some will be minor, but others can be devastating to both your home and your wallet. The worst part? Not all water leaks are obvious. You may not know about a leak until it has done serious damage. That’s why it’s crucial for you, the homeowner, to learn how to find water leaks before they do much damage. Here are some tips and tricks for finding leaks.

Check your bill

If you are on a municipal water system, you receive a monthly water bill. 

Generally, there’s not much variation in your water bill. However, if you are watering your lawn and garden a lot in the summer, your bill may increase by as much as 40%.

The average family of four uses no more than 12,000 gallons a month, according to the EPA. If you’re using much higher amounts, you probably have a leak somewhere. You’d be surprised how quickly it all adds up. A leaky faucet with a steady drip can waste nearly 10,000 gallons a year! That’s the equivalent of washing 300 loads of laundry, and it can add up to 30% to your water bill. 

If you are on a well, you won’t be getting a water bill, but that doesn’t mean you’re not wasting hard-earned cash. Your well pump is using electricity to pull that water up from the ground, and a steady leak can raise your power bill. Leaky faucets, shower heads, and hoses can increase the demand on your well pump as much as two to three gallons per minute. That can increase pump demand by more than 4,000 gallons over a 24-hour period. That means your electric bill is racking up all that extra demand.

Become a do-it-yourself water meter reader

Again, this only works if your home is connected to a municipal water supply. In colder climates, the water meter may be located underneath a small, manhole-style cover near the street. In warmer areas it may be located on the side or back of your home where the water supply enters. Here’s the recipe for using the meter to check for leaks:

1. Turn off all faucets in your home, and be sure the dishwasher and washing machine are not in use.
2. Check the water meter and write down the numbers.
3. Wait one hour.
4. Check the meter again. If the numbers have gotten higher, there’s a leak somewhere in your system.
5. Now you must determine if the leak is inside or outside your home. Find the main shutoff valve in your home. This may be in a basement or utility room where the main water supply pipe enters your home. Turn off the shutoff valve, and then check a few faucets to be sure the water has stopped.
6. Now check the water meter again, and write down the numbers. 
7. Wait another hour. 
8. Check the meter again. If the numbers haven’t changed, the leak is somewhere inside your home. If the numbers have changed the leak is in the water line that runs underground to your house. Call your water company and report the situation.

The green, green grass of home

Is there an area on your lawn where the grass is greener and grows faster than the rest of your yard? You might have a leaking water line underneath that area. If that part of the yard is always wet and squishy, you can be sure there’s a leaky pipe under there. If you’re not comfortable dealing with it yourself, call in a professional.

Take a look under the hood

If your meter test indicated a leak, or if your electric bill seems to be creeping up, it’s time to check the obvious places where leaks can spring. Look in the cabinets under all your sinks, and make sure they are dry. Next, check around tubs, showers, and toilet for signs of leaks, and then check below your water heater, washing machine, and dishwasher for small puddles or water stains. If you find puddles, shut off the water supply to the appliance and call in a plumber.

Time to dye!

If you hear trickling noises from your toilet tank, it probably means flapper has become brittle, and water is leaking into the bowl. This can waste upward of 200 gallons of water a day, and raise you water bill a few hundred dollars within a year.

Don’t hear anything? The leak may be too small for your ears to detect. Here’s how to tell if your flapper has a trickle. Get a bottle of red food coloring and put a few drops into the tank of all your toilets. Wait five minutes. If you see red in the bowl, it’s time to replace your flapper. This is an easy, do-it-yourself job. Or call a plumber if you’re not comfortable tinkering around in your toilet tank.

Click here to see a Home Depot video on toilet flapper replacement.

Become a leak detective

Some leaks are obvious, such as finding water leaking underneath your kitchen sink. Unfortunately, many can be stealth leaks, which might go unnoticed until they cause serious damage to your home. 

Here are some things to notice:

• A dripping noise. If you hear a dripping sound inside walls, that’s a strong indicator that you have a problem. However, some leaks are silent but deadly, such as water oozing down along a wall stud. 
• Wall or baseboard discoloration. Water might be leaking behind the drywall and soaking through, or it could be collecting at the bottom of baseboards.
• Bubbling paint or wallpaper. If the wall board is wet, paint or wallpaper my have trouble adhering to the wall. If this is accompanied by a bulge in the wall, chances are this has been going on for a long time. The damage is more extensive and that section of wall board will need to be removed and replaced after the leak is fixed.
• Musty odors. An unchecked leak is an ideal breeding ground for mold. Sometimes you may see black blotches on your side of the wall, but many times the mold is growing out of sight behind the wall. Don’t ignore musty odors. They are a warning sign of what could be a serious and costly problem.

This may be alarming!

When it comes to leaks, early detection is your best insurance policy. Some areas are just “leak magnets.” You can install Zircon Electronic Leak Detectors in those areas. 

Put them in cabinets under sinks, near your water heater, and close to water pipes that lead to exterior faucets that might burst during cold winter months. A shrill alarm will alert you to the slightest amount of water, giving you time to shut off the water supply and make repairs before serious damage occurs to your home. 

In conclusion, always take water leaks seriously, and stop them before they do serious damage to your home.

Buying or selling a home in or near Asheville?

Avoid unpleasant surprises! Contact Asheville Home Inspector Peter Young before signing any contracts. Call (828) 808-4980, or click here to make an appointment online.

The post Water is your friend. Until it isn’t! appeared first on Peter Young Home Inspections.

Springtime! What’s not to love? Flowers are regaling you with color, birds are singing merrily. And your house needs some seasonal love. Here’s a springtime home maintenance checklist to keep your home humming along with all that joyous birdsong. A brisk, sunny spring day is the perfect time to assess any winter wear and tear on your home. Starting with the exterior, these are the items you need to check out.

Up on the roof

Old Man Winter can do a number on your roof. If you feel secure on a ladder, take a peek up there to see if there’s anything that needs attention. Look for cracked tiles, torn or missing shingles, and replace them. If damage is serious, call a licensed roofer for an estimate and to make the repairs.

Get your mind in the gutter!

Winter can be rough on downspouts if ice and debris accumulate. Clean debris from your gutters and downspouts to keep water flowing. Water dams can cause wood rot around eaves and trim. If the winter was windy, gutters may be loose or falling. If they’re intact, simply reattached them. If damaged, it’s time to replace them.

Check your sprinklers

A few hard winter freezes can play havoc with your sprinkler system. Run the system on a warm, sunny day to make sure it’s functioning properly. Replace any damaged sprinkler heads if you find any. If you didn’t drain your sprinkler system before winter, you may have a burst pipe. Large puddles or ponding may appear at the site of the break when you turn the system back on. If this occurred, it’s best to call a professional. You’ll need to dig up part of the yard and replace the broken pipe.

All hands on deck

Winter snow and ice can be detrimental to your decks, porches, and exterior woodwork.
Check for water stains, discoloration, and warping. If the surface looks compromised, it’s time to pressure wash and stain or reseal.

Look for warped deck boards and loose nails. Be sure railings and steps are secure. Replace and soft or rotting boards as soon as possible.

Forget saying “I don’t do windows!”

Check all your window screens for holes or cracks that can be entry points for insects. Hardware stores sell screen repair kits for small fixes. Many also offer a service, in which you can bring the screen to them for repair.Next, check out all your windows for drafts or leaks. Caulking and weather stripping will erode over time, so it may be time for resealing. 

Springtime is trim time

Early spring is the time to trim branches, shrubs, and trees, especially those that extend out over the roof of your house or look like they’re growing toward utility lines. If you’re not handy with a ladder or chainsaw, hire a professional to do the job.

Up in the attic

Moving to the interior, do a visual inspection of your attic to make sure you can’t see light through the roof. 
Look for signs of rodents or other pests that may have moved in during the cold winter months. Be sure there are no signs of moisture or mold on your insulation.

Look out below

Now’s a good time to check out the basement for musty odors. If the scent is strong, there may be a water leak. Check walls, ceilings, and around the floor for water stains or discoloration. Water or dampness on the floor may indicate poorly positioned downspouts or improper grading around your home. The ground should slope downward and away from the foundation. Water on the walls or ceiling may indicate a plumbing problem. Call in a professional to check that out.

Clean your dryer vents

Clogged dryer vents are real energy wasters, and they’re also fire hazards. Check out the vent where it attaches to the dryer and where it exits the house. If the vent is clogged, you can purchase vent cleaning kits from most home stores. While you’re down there, move the dryer and vacuum under it. 

Don’t neglect the water heater

 It’s easy to take the hot water heater for granted. It works for us 24/7, but we rarely think about it. When it’s not working properly, your power bill will rise. Even worse than that, it can cause extensive damage to your home if its contents begin leaking out. Hard water, rust, and leaks can cause sediment buildup that can damage the heating elements. If you see signs of corrosion at the base of your water heater, or if you see water leaking around it, call a professional immediately to repair or replace it, before major damage happens.

Where there’s smoke…

You’re doing a monthly check of your fire extinguishers, right? Here’s more. During your springtime home maintenance, take a closer look at the hose and nozzle to ensure they are in working condition. Make sure the pressure gauge is “in the green.” If pressure is down, find a service in your area to recharge the extinguisher, or replace it quickly. 

On the subject of smoke, spring is the time to test your smoke detectors and replace their batteries. You need a smoke detector on every level of your home, including the basement. Do the same check and battery replacement on your carbon monoxide detectors. You can never be “too careful” when it concerning deadly carbon monoxide fumes. 

Over years of living in your home, it’s easy to forget simple maintenance or just not notice problems that are easily fixed. Stick to this checklist every spring, and your home will remain in good shape for many more years to come.

Buying or selling a home?

Avoid unpleasant surprises! Contact Asheville Home Inspector Peter Young before signing any contracts. Call (828) 808-4980, or click here to make an appointment.

The post Here’s a checklist for getting a jump on springtime home maintenance chores appeared first on Peter Young Home Inspections.

Have you ever experienced being so familiar with something that you start to overlook it? That happens to a lot of homeowners. They overlook things that should not be neglected. This can be a problem when it’s time to sell your home. The sale is contingent upon a favorable home inspection, and here’s the bottom line: The home inspector has a trained eye. He or she will catch all those things you may be missing. Here are some things inspectors routinely find.

Things are looking up!

The importance of a home’s roof cannot be emphasized enough. A leaky roof is never a localized problem if left unrepaired. Water will find its way in, and will travel downward, resulting in damage to ceilings, walls, even to floors. Inspectors will check a home’s interior for signs of water damage, such as stained ceilings and walls, or sagging areas on ceilings.

While most home inspectors do not take a stroll across your roof, they may take a look from a ladder, using binoculars to see further away. This type of visual inspection can may catch popped nails or torn or mold-damaged shingles, but won’t usually reveal hidden leaks. Some inspectors use drone operated cameras, which fly over your roof and make high-res digital recordings of its entire surface. Since inspectors go up in attics, they may see points of light coming through the roof. If these are not from ridge vents or turbines, they likely indicate trouble. If light can get through, so can water!

Your inspector can tell by the roof’s condition if it is coming near to “end of life.” Roof replacements are costly affairs, so a poor roof report might be a real sticking point in a home sale.

Blowing hot and cold

As temperatures are heating up across the country, your home’s HVAC system is more crucial than ever. When inspectors look at a home’s HVAC system, they might find several issues. The most common is a very easy fix – dirty or clogged filters. Your filter cleans the air as your HVAC system is working. When filters become clogged, they block the airflow, which can cause damage to the system’s heating and cooling functions.

The easy fix? Change the filter regularly. Check it every 30 days for signs of dirt and dust. Change it at least every 90 days. The longer it sits, the more dust, dirt, and allergens will accumulate in your home. 

Up in the attic, the inspector may find cracks or breaks in the ductwork. In some cases, support straps come loose and ducts may become partially disconnected. Cracked or broken duct connections waste power and money, since heated or cooled air is venting into the attic rather than living spaces. 

Another problem is old or poorly maintained systems. This can cause less than stellar performance as well as health and safety issues. Gas appliances need functioning exhaust systems to vent harmful gases to the outside. Cracks or breaks in heat exchangers can cause gases to leak back into the house. 

Keep in mind that HVAC systems are constructed of complex electronic and mechanical parts that are subject to wear and tear. Your inspector will assess the current condition of the HVAC system by running it through a heating or cooling cycle, and may be able to speculate on the remaining life of the unit. However, these are assessments are limited in scope. There are no guarantees the unit will not fail sooner than later.

Sneaky appliances

Home inspectors check out all major, built-in appliances, such as the stove, refrigerator, dishwasher, garbage disposal, washer, and dryer. Smaller appliances, like toaster ovens and microwaves aren’t inspected.

Appliances can be sneaky. Just because they work when the inspector is there, that doesn’t mean they will continue to do so. Stovetop burners can fail, as can oven heating elements.

•  Ovens that don’t get hot
•  Non-functioning range burners
•  Refrigerators and freezers not cooling properly
•  Unvented range hoods
•  Broken ice makers
•  Defective garbage disposals
•  Washers that don’t spin
•  Dryers that don’t heat up
•  Lint-clogged dryer vents

Depending on the age of the appliances, the inspector may advise on repair or replacement.

Making the grade

This one is quite simple. The land around a house should slope gradually away from the home.

When it slopes toward a house it can affect the foundation and cause water to collect in basements and crawl spaces.

Think mold! And that’s never a good thing.

Hiding something?

Home inspectors are like Sherlock Holmes when assessing the specter of hidden problems. What’s under a floor covering remains a mystery to the untrained eye. Inspectors don’t pull up carpets or wood flooring to see what lies beneath, but they look for telltale signs of trouble. A soft or sagging area on the floor indicates trouble below. Uneven, washboard-appearing wood flooring might indicate a wet crawlspace underneath.

Stains on the carpet or baseboards could indicate recurring moisture problems. 
This is why hiring an experienced home inspection sleuth is critical. You never know what a home may be hiding, but a good home inspector is trained to find out.

Buying or selling a home?

Avoid unpleasant surprises! Contact Asheville Home Inspector Peter Young before signing any contracts. Call (828) 808-4980, or click here to make an appointment.

The post These common home inspection issues can’t elude an inspector’s eye appeared first on Peter Young Home Inspections.