Freezing temperatures, howling winds, and ice dams the size of Samurai swords…

Spring is finally here! The birds are singing, daffodils are pushing through the soil, and your house is groaning like it just woke up from a three-month bender.

Truth is, winter is incredibly tough on your home. Between freezing temperatures, howling winds, and ice dams the size of Samurai swords, your beloved abode has been working overtime just to keep you from turning into a human popsicle. 

Now that spring has sprung, your house has a massive “winter hangover.” It’s creaky, it’s leaky, and there’s a distinct possibility it’s hiding some regrettable decisions in the basement.

Here at Peter Young Home Inspections, we know what winter can do! Think of us as the metaphorical aspirin and strong cup of black coffee your home desperately needs right now. To help you nurse your property back to health, we’ve put together this nifty spring recovery guide.

Roofs and Gutters: Curing the Hangover

Your roof took the brunt of winter’s wrath. It wore a heavy bonnet of snow and ice without complaining, but now it’s feeling the aftereffects.

• The Shingle Check: Grab a pair of binoculars (so you don’t actually have to climb a ladder right now) and scan your roof from the yard.
• Look for missing, cracked, or curling shingles. Winter winds love to rip these off, leaving your roof exposed to spring showers.
  • The Remedy: If you spot damage, call a local roofing professional to patch in new shingles. Unless you have excellent balance or a death wish, leave steep roof repairs to the pros.
• The Gutter Cleanse: Your gutters are currently stuffed with wet leaves, twigs, and whatever treasures the neighborhood squirrels decided to hoard. Have you heard about the lady who found Elvis in her gutters?
  • The Remedy: Grab a sturdy ladder, a pair of thick gloves, and a bucket. Scoop out the muck, then flush the gutters with a garden hose to make sure the downspouts are clear. Reattach any gutters that are pulling away from the fascia board.

• The Gutter Cleanse: Your gutters are currently stuffed with wet leaves, twigs, and whatever treasures the neighborhood squirrels decided to hoard. Have you heard about the lady who found Elvis in her gutters?
  • The Remedy: Grab a sturdy ladder, a pair of thick gloves, and a bucket. Scoop out the muck, then flush the gutters with a garden hose to make sure the downspouts are clear. Reattach any gutters that are pulling away from the fascia board.

Foundation & Exterior: Treating Dry, Cracked Skin

When the ground freezes and thaws, it expands and contracts. This phenomenon, known as frost heave, can do a number on your foundation and exterior.

• Hunt for Cracks: Take a slow walk around the perimeter of your house. Look for new cracks in the foundation, brickwork, or stucco.
  • The Remedy: Small, hairline cracks can easily be sealed with a polyurethane masonry caulk to keep moisture and bugs out. However, if the crack is wider than a penny or looks like a jagged staircase, skip the DIY and call a structural engineer.
• Check the Grading: The dirt around your house should slope away from your foundation. Winter has a sneaky way of eroding this soil.
  • The Remedy: Grab a shovel and pack some dense topsoil (not mulch, which retains water) around the foundation. Tamp it down so it creates a gentle downward slope away from your house, redirecting rainwater into the yard and out of your basement.

Attic & Basement: Evicting Uninvited Guests

When the temperature dropped last winter, every critter in the neighborhood started looking for a warm place to crash. 

Unfortunately, your attic and basement were the hottest clubs in town.

Check the Grading: The dirt around your house should slope away from your foundation. Winter has a sneaky way of eroding this soil.

• The Basement Sweep:  Go downstairs with a good flashlight. You are looking for moisture, efflorescence (that powdery white stuff on concrete), or a musty smell that screams “mold.”
  • The Remedy: If the air feels damp, invest in a good dehumidifier and let it run continuously. If you find active puddles, trace the source and seal the interior concrete walls with waterproofing paint.
• The Attic Inspection: Pop your head into the attic. Look for shredded insulation, droppings, or daylight peeking through the roof boards.
  • The Remedy: If you find evidence of a rodent rave, you need to evict them. Seal off entry points from the outside using steel wool and caulk (mice can’t chew through steel wool). Set traps inside, or better yet, call a pest control service to play bouncer and clear the room.

Windows & Doors: Fixing Creaky, Leaky Joints

Grab a caulking gun and run a fresh bead of exterior-grade silicone caulk around the window frames.

Winter is notorious for ruining weatherstripping. Expanding ice and shrinking wood can leave your windows and doors feeling woozy and off-balance.

• The Breeze Test: On a windy spring day, run your hand around the edges of your closed windows and doors. If you feel a breeze, your weatherstripping has given up the ghost.
• The Remedy: Peel off the old, cracked weatherstripping and wipe the door jamb or window frame clean. Apply new self-adhesive foam or rubber stripping. For the exterior, grab a caulking gun and run a fresh bead of exterior-grade silicone caulk around the window frames to seal out the spring rain.

Need a Professional Diagnosis?

Nursing a house through a winter hangover takes time, effort, and a keen eye. While this DIY checklist is a great place to start, sometimes you need a professional to give it the real hairy eyeball!

If you notice something concerning, or if you just want the peace of mind that comes from knowing your home is in top shape for the year ahead, we’re here to help. We’ll comb through your home from the chimney to the basement floor, giving you a comprehensive breakdown of what’s working, what’s not, and what needs a little TLC.

Don’t let your house suffer through spring. Give us a call today , and let’s get your home ready to enjoy the sunshine!

Buying or selling a home in WNC?

Avoid unpleasant surprises! Contact Asheville Home Inspector Peter Young before signing any contracts. Call (828) 808-4980, or click here to make an appointment.

The post Winter Home Hangover: A Guide to Spring Detox appeared first on Peter Young Home Inspections.

Let’s be honest: walking into an open house is a form of psychological warfare. You are greeted by a tray of cookies, a $400 Nest candle that smells like Financial Stability, and a soundtrack of lo-fi beats designed to lower your cortisol levels. The staging is impeccable. There’s a throw blanket artfully draped over a sofa that costs more than my first truck, and every Live, Laugh, Love sign is strategically placed to hide a hole in the drywall.

Sellers are profiling their houses like dating apps. They’re showing you the best angles, the most flattering light, and hiding the fact that the HVAC system sounds like a jet engine clogged with seagull feathers.

As your home inspector, it’s my job to be the professional “buzzkill.” I am the guy who walks into your potential dream home and immediately starts looking for the nightmare lurking below the surface. I don’t care about the quartz countertops or the subway tile backsplash. I care about the stuff that keeps the roof over your head and the water out of your toaster. 

Buying a house is like a high-stakes first date: everyone is on their best behavior until you look in the crawlspace and realize the house has some serious “ex” issues.

If you’re out house hunting and you spot any of these six red flags, don’t let be dazzled by the staging. Don’t panic, but do have my number on speed dial! We’re going to need to do some detective work.

#1 The Spicy Electrical Panel

When I open an electrical panel, I should see a neat, organized rows of breakers. What I often find instead is what I like to call The Bowl of Angry Spaghetti.

DIY Electrical is the leading cause of me having an anxiety attack on the job. Homeowners love to think they’re electricians because they watched a twenty-minute YouTube video. They start adding outlets, wiring up “smart” light switches, and running extension cords through the attic like it’s a jungle gym.

• The Red Flags: I’m looking for “double-tapping” in the breaker box (where some genius jammed two wires into a slot meant for one) or charred, melted plastic on the breakers. That’s not “character”—that’s an active fire hazard.
• The “Panel of Doom”: If I see the words Federal Pacific or Zinsco on the front of that box, we have an immediate problem. These panels are the vintage “fire-starters” of the industry. They are famous for failing to trip when they overheat, which is basically the electrical equivalent of a car that doesn’t have brakes. 

Replacing an electrical panel isn’t the end of the world, but it’s a $2,500+ conversation you need to have before you close.

#2 The Fresh Paint Smell (Everywhere)

If you walk into a basement or a spare bedroom and it smells like a Sherwin-Williams factory just exploded, your Spidey Sense should be tingling. This is what we in the industry like to call “The Landlord Special.” Fresh paint is a classic “homeowner’s highlighter.” It’s often used to draw a nice, crisp, white line right over mold, mildew, or a water stain the size of a Rottweiler. Now, don’t get me wrong—sellers should paint before they list. It’s part of the game. But when I see fresh paint in a basement that has no windows and questionable drainage, I start reaching for my moisture meter.

• The Reality Check: I’ve seen cases where a seller painted over black mold just forty-eight hours before the inspection. It looks great for the photos, but the moisture is still there, trapped behind the “Swiss Coffee” semi-gloss, just waiting to rot the studs.
• Pro Tip: Look at the ceiling corners and the baseboards. If there’s a suspiciously circular patch of “extra white” paint, or if the texture of the drywall feels slightly “mushy” or bubbly, someone is trying to hide a leak from the upstairs bathroom or a failing roof.

#3 The Lasagna Roof Recipe

Did you know you can keep layering shingles on a roof like you’re dressing for a particularly brutal North Dakota winter? You can, but you absolutely shouldn’t.

If you look at the edge of a roof and it looks abnormally thick (like a piece of lasagna, that’s a major red flag. 

Most municipalities allow for two layers of shingles, but I’ve seen three or even four.

• The Physics Problem: Shingles are heavy. A single layer of shingles on a standard house can weigh several thousand pounds. When you double or triple that, you are putting massive, unintended stress on the rafters and the structure of the home.
• The Insurance Nightmare: Here’s the kicker: most insurance companies in 2026 are getting extremely picky. If they see a roof that’s over fifteen years old or has multiple layers, they might refuse to insure the home entirely.
• The Hidden Cost: You can’t just put a new layer over a mess. To fix it properly, you have to pay for a “tear-off,” which means paying a crew to rip off all those layers and haul them to the dump before they even start the new roof. It essentially doubles your labor costs.

#4 Stair-Step Cracks in the Brick

A little settling is normal. Houses are heavy, the earth moves, and over thirty years, things are going to shift. Houses get old, their joints creak, and they get a bit cranky, much like I do when I have to inspect a hot attic in July.

However, there is a very big difference between a “hairline settlement crack” and a “structural SOS.” If you see a crack in the exterior brick or the interior foundation wall that looks like a literal staircase, the house isn’t just settling; it’s trying to return to the earth.

• The Science of the Squeeze: Vertical cracks are often just the house breathing. But stair-step cracks (following the mortar lines) or horizontal cracks are signs of “lateral pressure.” This means the soil outside is pushing against the foundation, or the corner of the house is sinking into a soft spot.
• The “Rule of Thumb”: If the crack is wider than 1/4 inch, or if I can see the neighbor’s backyard through the wall, your bank account is about to have a very bad day. Foundation repair often involves “piers” or “underpinning,” which are fancy industry code words for we have to dig a giant hole and charge you ten thousand dollars.

#5 The Indoor Swimming Pool In the Crawlspace

I’ve spent a significant portion of my life in crawlspaces, and I can tell you that they are the “underbelly” of the housing world.

If I open that hatch and I’m greeted by the smell of old gym socks or worse, a family of frogs splashing, we’re in trouble.

Standing water under a house is a VIP invitation for every nightmare known to man: mold, wood rot, termites, and a guest list of pests (raccoons, opossums, and the aforementioned frog clan) that you definitely didn’t invite to the housewarming party.

• The Evidence: Even if the crawlspace is dry today, I look for efflorescence. That’s the white, chalky powder left behind on concrete walls. It’s the “ghost of water past,” and it tells me exactly how high the water gets when it rains.
• The Rot Factor: Wood is a sponge. If it sits in a high-humidity environment for years, it loses its structural integrity. If I can poke a screwdriver into your floor joist and it goes in like a hot knife through butter, we aren’t talking about a “fixer-upper” anymore—we’re talking about a major structural failure.

#6 Doors That Won’t Close Or Won’t Stay Open

This is the Ghosting Test. If you walk into a bedroom and the door slowly swings open or shut on its own, it likely isn’t a Victorian ghost. It’s probably a foundation problem.

When a house shifts, the frames of the doors and windows are the first things to go out of square. If you have to use your full body weight to get the front door to latch, or if the bedroom door rubs against the carpet, the house is telling you that it’s tilting.

• The Window Test: Try to open a few windows during your walk-through. If they are painted shut, that’s one thing. But if they are physically stuck or require a crowbar to budge, the frames might be compressed from the weight of the house shifting.
• The Marble Test: Set a marble down on a hardwood floor. If it wins a land-speed record rolling toward the kitchen, we need to have a very serious conversation about the “load-bearing” capabilities of your floor joists.

Honorable Mentions (Quick-Fire Red Flags)

• The “Tree Hugger”: A massive oak tree with branches resting on the roof. It looks poetic until those branches act as a highway for squirrels and a saw for your shingles.
• The “Mystery Switch”: A light switch that does absolutely nothing. Usually, this means there’s a junction box buried in a wall somewhere that is just waiting to short out.
• The “Ventless” Bathroom: A bathroom with no window and no exhaust fan is really just a mold cultivation chamber.

The Bottom Line

A red flag doesn’t always mean you should run screaming into the night! Every house has issues. Even new construction. A red flag is simply a price adjustment opportunity.

My job isn’t to tell you whether or not to buy the house; my job is to make sure you know exactly what you’re stepping into. I want you to buy that Vintage Charm house, but I want you to do it knowing that the charm might come with a $5,000 plumbing bill in a year or two.

Don’t let the staging fool you. Before you sign on the dotted line, let’s get dirty and see what’s actually happening behind the façade. By that, I mean let me do it. I’m already wearing my work clothes!

Buying or selling a home in WNC?

Avoid unpleasant surprises! Contact Asheville Home Inspector Peter Young before signing any contracts. Call (828) 808-4980, or click here to make an appointment.

The post Take Off the Rose-Colored Glasses: 6 Inspection Red Flags You Should Not Ignore appeared first on Peter Young Home Inspections.

As a home inspector, I’ve been places you couldn’t pay me enough to go if it wasn’t literally my job. I’ve shimmied into attics hotter than the surface of the sun and squeezed behind furnaces that haven’t been cleaned since the Carter administration. But nothing—and I mean nothing—competes with the crawlspace.

In the hierarchy of “Places Homeowners Don’t Want to Go,” the crawlspace is the undisputed champion. It’s dark, it’s cramped, and it’s usually home to an unsettling number of spiders that look surprisingly like weightlifters. Because it’s unpleasant, the crawlspace suffers from a severe case of “out of sight, out of mind.” You shut that little access door, walk away, and pretend the space below your subfloor doesn’t exist.

Here is an uncomfortable truth I have to deliver to clients often: Ignoring your crawlspace is like ignoring a cavity. It doesn’t get better on its own; it just gets more expensive and painful to fix.

In a crawlspace, the root of nearly all evil is moisture. A wet crawlspace is an active petri dish trying to consume your house from the bottom up.

If you’ve been blissfully ignoring that damp dungeon beneath your feet, here are a few reasons why you need to grab a flashlight (or better yet, HIRE ME to grab a flashlight) and find out what’s going on down there.

The Stack Effect (Why Your House Smells Like Dirt)

Before we get to the disasters, let’s have a quick science lesson. Your house operates like a giant chimney. Hot air rises and escapes out of your attic. To replace that air, your house sucks in new air from the lowest points—usually the crawlspace.

Building scientists call this the “stack effect.” I call it “inhaling the swamp.” Is your crawlspace damp, moldy, and smelling like a wet dog that rolled in mushrooms? Guess what? That’s the air you are breathing in your living room. 

Up to 50% of the air on your first floor originated in your crawlspace. If that doesn’t gross you out, nothing will.

Problem #1: The Structural Buffet

Your house is likely made of wood. The wood used for framing, joists, and subflooring needs to be dry. When crawlspace humidity gets above 70%, that wood starts absorbing moisture like a sponge.

Do you know what loves damp wood? Rot fungus.

I’ve been in crawlspaces where I could stick my screwdriver handle-deep into a main support beam because it had the consistency of wet cardboard. When wood rots, it loses its structural integrity. This leads to sagging floors, doors that suddenly stick, and cracks in your drywall upstairs. In a worst-case scenario, the whole structure could come tumbling down like a house of cards!

If your kitchen floor has started to feel “bouncy” when you walk across it, it’s not because your home is morphing into a backyard party bounce house. It’s because the joists below are transforming into mulch.

Problem #2: The Pest Party

Water is life. Unfortunately, that applies to pests, too. A dry crawlspace is an inhospitable desert to bugs. A wet crawlspace is an all-inclusive resort.

Termites are attracted to moisture. They don’t just want wood; they want soft, damp wood that’s easy to chew. 

A wet crawlspace is practically rolling out the red carpet for them.

Furthermore, high moisture attracts camel crickets (also known as sprickets). If you’ve never encountered one, they look like a spider and a shrimp had a terrifying baby that jumps directly at your face when startled. They love damp environments. Drying out the crawlspace is the only way to evict them permanently.

Problem #3: The Mold Explosion

Mold is the four-letter word of real estate. Lenders consider mold a major risk to the property’s value and structural integrity, often requiring professional remediation and a clean inspection report before final loan approval. 

Mold needs three things to thrive: food (your wood framing), appropriate temperature (crawlspaces are warm and snuggly), and moisture.

If you have a damp crawlspace, you almost certainly have mold growth. It might look white and fuzzy, or black and patchy on the floor joists. 

Remember the stack effect? Those mold spores don’t stay downstairs. They hitch a ride on rising air currents and enter your living space, potentially aggravating allergies and asthma. If your house has a persistent, musty “old basement” smell that no amount of scented candles can mask, that eau de stank is likely coming from under the house.

Ignorance Is NOT bliss! Stop Ignoring It.

Look, I get it. You don’t want to go down there. It’s gross.

But if you do start to notice musty smells, cupping hardwood floors, high indoor humidity, or a sudden increase in creepy-crawlies, take heed. “Just open the vents in the summer” is actually terrible advice. In humid climates it brings more wet air in to condense on cool surfaces.

So, it’s time to move from “everything is ruined” to “here’s how we save the house.” In the world of home inspections, we generally look at a hierarchy of fixes depending on whether you have a minor dampness issue or a full-blown subterranean swamp.

Here is a breakdown of how to actually dry out the dungeon.

1. The Vapor Barrier (The “Must-Have” Minimum)

Think of a vapor barrier as a raincoat for your crawlspace floor. Even if the ground looks dry, the earth is constantly “exhaling” moisture. A vapor barrier, usually a heavy-duty plastic (polyethylene) sheeting, is laid over the soil to stop that moisture from rising.

• Standard Grade: Most builders throw down a 6-mil plastic sheet. It’s better than nothing, but it’s thin and tears if you so much as look at it funny.
• Pro Grade: We recommend 10-mil to 20-mil reinforced plastic. It’s tough enough to crawl on without ripping, and it stays in place.

2. Diversion and Drainage

If you have actual standing water after a rainstorm, a plastic sheet isn’t the answer. You’ll just have a very expensive indoor swimming pool under your house.

• Gutters and Downspouts: I can’t tell you how many “wet crawlspace” issues are actually just clogged gutter issues. If your downspouts dump water right next to the foundation, gravity will do the rest.
• Sump Pumps: If the water table is high or the terrain forces water toward your house, you need a sump pump. It’s a bucket in the ground with a pump that says, “Not today, water,” and flings it far away from the foundation.

Crawlspace Encapsulation (The Gold Standard)

This is the nuclear option, and it’s arguably the best thing you can do for your home’s health. Instead of just covering the floor, you seal the entire space like a Tupperware container.

What’s involved:

• Sealing the Vents: Close off those foundation vents that allow humid summer air to enter.
• Wall Liners: The heavy plastic doesn’t just sit on the floor; it’s taped and sealed several feet up the foundation walls.
• Insulation: Replacing old, fiberglass “pink stuff” (which acts like a moldy sponge) with rigid foam board on the walls.

Pro Tip: Never encapsulate your crawlspace without addressing drainage first. If you trap water behind your beautiful new plastic liners, you’re just creating a giant, hidden mold bag.

Dedicated Dehumidification

Once the space is sealed, you might need to manage the air. In that case, you can’t just use a $200 dehumidifier from a big-box store; it’ll burn out in six months or sooner trying to keep up. You need a commercial-grade, low-temperature dehumidifier specifically designed for crawlspaces. These units are costly, but they can pull gallons of water out of the air daily and drain automatically so you never have to empty a bucket.

Before you panic and buy a crate of industrial fans, get your crawlspace inspected. Let us brave the spider-gymnasts and assess the moisture levels. Your home’s foundation (and your lungs) will thank you.

Buying Or Selling A Home in WNC?

Avoid unpleasant surprises! Contact Asheville Home Inspector Peter Young before signing any contracts. Call (828) 808-4980, or click here to make an appointment.

The post Dungeon Down Under: A Wet Crawlspace Can Be Your Home’s Worst Nightmare appeared first on Peter Young Home Inspections.

Basements have a sketchy reputation. Things lurk down there: forgotten holiday decorations, that treadmill you swore you’d use, and (unfortunately) that dreaded musty smell that hints at water problems.

A wet basement is more than just an annoyance; it’s a structural liability, a potential health hazard (hello, mold!), and a destroyer of perfectly good board games. However, the mere thought of excavating your entire yard to waterproof from the outside can feel like a Herculean task, a muddy, expensive, and frankly, back-breaking endeavor. So, the question arises, with a glint of desperation in your eyes: “Can I waterproof my basement from the inside?”

The short answer, delivered with a sigh of relief, is YES. You absolutely can. 

While not always the permanent “cure-all” for every single problem, interior waterproofing methods are highly effective for patching and managing some common issues. Think of it less as a miracle cure for a sinking ship, and more as installing a robust, internal life raft. Let’s take a quick look.

Find the Source, Of Course, Of Course!

Don’t just assume the water is seeping up from a mysterious underground spring where a forgotten pirate treasure is buried (though wouldn’t that be nice?). 

Look for signs: water stains on the walls, efflorescence (that powdery white mineral deposit that looks like your wall is shedding its skin), and of course, puddles.

Is the water seeping through cracks in the foundation? Is it coming up from the floor? Pinpointing the source is the first and most crucial step.

Once you’ve identified your foe, it’s time to choose your weapon.

Your Interior Arsenal: Sealing & Drainage

One of the most popular and effective interior waterproofing methods involves a combination of sealing and drainage. This is often the go-to solution for walls that are seeping water through small cracks or porous concrete. The process typically starts with a thorough cleaning of the walls to remove any paint, debris, or efflorescence. You need a clean slate for the products to adhere properly.

Next, you can apply a waterproof paint or sealant. These specialized coatings, often sold at your local hardware store, are designed to create a barrier on the interior surface of the foundation walls. Think of it as a super-tough, water-resistant skin for your basement. While this can be a fantastic first line of defense for minor dampness, it’s not a magical fix for major leaks.

If you’re seeing a steady stream of water running down a portion of your wall, paint alone will simply peel and fail under the pressure. For more significant water intrusion, you’ll need to go a step further and install an interior drainage system. This is a game-changer. 

An interior drainage system, also known as a French drain or weeping tile system, can be installed along the perimeter of the basement floor. Dig a trench, put a perforated pipe inside, and cover it with gravel. 

This system’s genius lies in its ability to capture water as it enters the basement from the walls and floors, and then channel it to a sump pump. The sump pump, a hero in its own right, then ejects the water safely away from your home. This method doesn’t stop the water from entering, but it brilliantly controls and redirects it, keeping your basement floor dry and your sanity intact. We highly recommend hiring a professional to set this all up.

Hydraulic Cements and Sealants

Another tool in your internal waterproofing arsenal is hydraulic cement. This isn’t your average concrete; it’s a fast-setting material specifically designed to stop active water leaks.

If you have a specific, gushing crack in your foundation wall, hydraulic cement can be a lifesaver.

It expands as it sets, creating a tight seal that even a determined drip will have a hard time getting past. Applying cement can feel like a high-stakes, race-against-the-clock kind of project, but the satisfaction of watching a leak disappear is unmatched.

Finally, don’t underestimate the power of simply sealing cracks. For smaller, hairline cracks in the floor or walls, using a quality concrete crack sealant can make a world of difference. It’s a bit like putting a band-aid on a scrape. It’s not for a gaping wound, but it’s perfect for preventing a small problem from becoming a big one.

Look Beyond the Walls

So, you’ve painted, drained, and sealed, and your basement is now a dry, usable space where you can finally set up that home gym without fear of your rowing machine floating away. Give yourself a high five!

But here’s the crucial point, the grand finale, the “but wait, there’s more!” of the waterproofing world.

While interior waterproofing is a brilliant and effective solution for many basement woes, it’s crucial to understand what it’s doing. It’s managing the water, not necessarily stopping its source. If you have a significant issue with exterior hydrostatic pressure – water building up against the outside of your foundation walls and actively pushing its way in – interior solutions are a powerful defense, but they aren’t addressing the root cause. This is where you have to look outside. 

Poor grading, clogged gutters, or a failing exterior foundation drain can all be the true culprits. You’ve fixed the symptoms, but to ensure your basement stays dry for the long haul, you may need to address the source of the problem by improving your yard’s drainage and ensuring water is directed away from your home’s foundation. It’s the difference between patching a leaky roof and just putting buckets under the drips. Both will work, but only one is a real fix. 

So, enjoy your dry basement, but keep an eye on the bigger picture. Consider asking a professional to assess your home’s foundation.

Buying or selling a home in WNC?

Avoid unpleasant surprises! Contact Asheville Home Inspector Peter Young before signing any contracts. Call (828) 808-4980, or click here to make an appointment.

The post Out, Out, Damp Spot: A Short Guide to Waterproofing a Basement From the Inside appeared first on Peter Young Home Inspections.

Your home is likely your biggest investment, and its stability literally rests on its foundation. While often out of sight, your foundation supports the entire structure, sort of like the mythical Atlas carrying the heavens on his shoulders. 

But what happens when that hero starts to falter? Recognizing early warning signs of foundation issues is more than just aesthetics; it’s about your home’s safety and longevity.

The specter of foundation problems can be terrifying, spawning nightmares of bleeding money. However, not every creak or crack spells disaster. The key is knowing what to look for and when to call professionals. 

Your home is communicating with you. Learn its language to know what it’s trying to tell you. And no, we’re not talking about it whispering sweet nothings, but rather, hinting at structural woes.

Cracking up!

Cracks are perhaps the most common and alarming sign. Minor hairline cracks in plaster or drywall can simply be normal house settling or humidity changes. Think of them as your home’s stretch marks. The cracks demanding your attention indicate structural movement.

Foundation cracks are a significant red flag. Check exterior and interior walls for vertical, horizontal, or stair-step cracks, especially around doors and windows. Pay attention to cracks wider than a quarter-inch, or those that grow over time.

Don’t forget to look down! Floor cracks, especially if wide or uneven, can indicate foundation problems. Similarly, drywall cracks, particularly diagonal ones radiating from door and window corners, often signal a shifting structure. If your drywall looks like the roadmap from your last vacation, then it’s time to pay attention.

Doors and windows: The sticky truth

Beyond cracks, your doors and windows can be surprisingly vocal. Difficulty opening or closing them isn’t just annoying; it can be a significant indicator. When a foundation shifts, it can distort frames, causing them to bind or become jammed. If your doors are playing hard to get, or your windows are staging a silent protest, your foundation might be throwing a tantrum.

Even more telling are gaps between exterior windows and walls. If you see light or feel a draft where the window frame meets the wall, it suggests the foundation is moving, pulling the wall away. These gaps compromise energy efficiency and can allow moisture intrusion.

Floors and Walls: A crooked tale

Inside, pay close attention to your floors and walls. Uneven floors, where you feel a noticeable slope or dip, are a classic sign of foundation settlement. This indicates a section of your foundation has sunk or shifted. If walking through your living room feels like navigating a funhouse, your foundation might be the culprit. Similarly, sagging floors can also point to what lies below.

Now, look at your walls. Are they straight, or are they beginning to bow inward? Bowing walls are a serious concern, indicating significant pressure that the foundation can no longer withstand.

If your walls are starting to look like they’re doing the limbo, it’s time for a professional assessment.

What about that stately chimney? A cracked or leaning chimney is another strong indicator. Because chimneys are heavy and independent, they’re highly susceptible to foundation movement. If your chimney seems to be pulling away or is visibly tilted, like it’s had one too many, it’s a clear sign something is amiss below.

Finally, those subtle (or not-so-subtle) gaps between walls and floors are also red flags. As the foundation shifts, it can create separation, allowing drafts or even pests. Nobody wants a gap that lets in a draft and a family of freeloading mice.

Other indicators: The silent whispers

Sometimes, signs aren’t outwardly visible but are equally important. A musty smell, particularly in your basement or crawl space, often signals water intrusion.

While water doesn’t directly damage the foundation’s structural integrity, it can lead to hydrostatic pressure, soil erosion, and mold growth, all of which compromise the foundation. 

Therefore, basement water leaks are a serious indicator. If your basement smells like a forgotten gym sock, it’s more than a sign you need to air it out. It’s a strong hint of possible foundation problems.

Look at any concrete or brick work around your home, like patios or walkways. If you notice uneven concrete or brick, it could be a sign of settling or shifting of the underlying ground, which can impact your home’s foundation. Your perfectly laid patio shouldn’t look like a topographical map.

When to call the professionals

Observing one or two of these signs doesn’t necessarily mean your home is crumbling like a stale cupcake. However, if you notice a combination of several signs, or if any are pronounced and worsening, it’s crucial to seek professional help. A qualified foundation specialist can diagnose the root cause and recommend appropriate action. Ignoring these warning signs can lead to more extensive damage and significantly higher repair costs. 

By learning to recognize the silent language of foundation issues, you can protect your investment and ensure your home remains on solid ground for years to come. So, next time your door sticks, or you spot a new crack, don’t just sigh and blame the weather. Your home might be crying out for attention. Are you listening?

Buying or selling a home in Western North Carolina?

Avoid unpleasant surprises! Contact Asheville Home Inspector Peter Young before signing any contracts. Call (828) 808-4980, or click here to make an appointment.

The post Is your home on shaky ground? The silent language of foundation problems appeared first on Peter Young Home Inspections.

Ah, the glamorous life of a home inspector! We’re the intrepid explorers of crawl spaces, the Sherlock Holmeses of squeaky floors, the Gandalf the Greys of questionable wiring. We’re here rain or shine to ensure your dream home isn’t secretly a structural nightmare or a haven for sentient mold. But let me tell you, amidst the serious business of joist integrity and GFCI outlets, we stumble upon some truly… unique things. Things that make you question the very fabric of reality, or at least the homeowner’s sanity.

Forget your standard leaky faucets and cracked tiles. We’re talking about the deep cuts, the unexpected plot twists in the ongoing saga of “What on Earth Were They Thinking?” Get ready for a peek behind the drywall curtain, a glimpse into the wonderfully weird world of home inspection findings.

Disclaimer: The stories you’re about to read are fictitious. Any resemblance to actual living dust bunnies or freeloading families of anthropomorphic mice are purely coincidental.

The Dust Bunny Uprising

You think you have dust? Cute! We’ve encountered dust bunnies the size of small, disgruntled pets. These aren’t your average wisps of fluff; these are self-sustaining ecosystems, possibly harboring lost civilizations and definitely capable of triggering severe allergic reactions from three counties away.

Sometimes, you half expect to find them knitting tiny dust sweaters in the shadowy corners. We’ve even developed a highly secret Dust Bunny Index – and some homes score surprisingly high. Would yours be among them?

The Secret Life of Appliances

Appliances, it turns out, have personalities. Some are cooperative, humming along as if eager to please. Others? They’re in a rebellious phase. We’ve seen ovens that only work on Tuesdays, dishwashers that stage dramatic mid-cycle pauses, and refrigerators that emit a mournful, whale-like song at 3 AM. 

One memorable inspection involved a washing machine that, upon being activated, began tapping and squeaking out what sounded suspiciously like a polka. We’re not sure if that was a feature or a cry for attention.

Wildlife Sanctuary (Uninvited Guests Edition)

Attics and crawl spaces have become the hottest AirBnB choices for the local fauna. 

We’ve had close encounters with surprisingly chill raccoons.

How about families of mice who clearly haven’t paid their rent, and enough bat guano to fertilize a small Midwestern state?

And don’t even get us started on the mysterious rustling sounds emanating from inside the walls. Is it chipmunks? Disgruntled ghosts with tiny feet? The suspense is palpable.

Decorating decisions that defy logic

Taste is subjective, “they” say. But sometimes, subjectivity veers sharply into the abstract. We’ve witnessed rooms painted in hues that could curdle milk, wallpaper patterns that induce instant seasickness, and collections of porcelain dolls that seem to follow you with their vacant, judging eyes. One homeowner had meticulously covered an entire bathroom wall in bottle caps. Impressive dedication, questionable aesthetic. Another had created a “feature wall” entirely out of old VHS tapes. We’re still trying to process that one.

The DIY Hall of Shame and Good Intentions

We admire the can-do spirit! Truly. But sometimes, that spirit leads to creative interpretations of building codes. 

We’ve seen plumbing held together with duct tape and sheer willpower, electrical wiring that resembles a plate of tangled spaghetti, and structural “repairs” involving more zip ties than a hostage negotiation.

One particularly memorable DIY masterpiece involved a load-bearing wall that had been “reinforced” with a stack of old phone books. We politely suggested a professional might be needed.

The Mystery of the Missing and Surprisingly Present

Sometimes, it’s what isn’t there that’s strange. We’ve encountered kitchens devoid of cutlery, bathrooms lacking toilet paper holders (but featuring an extensive collection of rubber ducks), and living rooms with nothing but a single, strategically placed beanbag chair. 

Other times, it’s what is there that raises eyebrows. Like the taxidermied squirrel wearing a tiny fedora. Or the life-sized cardboard cutout of Mr. Spock in the master bedroom closet. You just never know what you’re going to find.

So, the next time you see a home inspector, remember that we’re not just pointing out that your gutters are clogged. We’re also intrepid chroniclers of the human condition, one bizarre discovery at a time. 

So raise a glass to home inspectors. We’ve witnessed the dust bunny empires, the appliance rebellions, the dizzying décor, the unexpected wildlife, the DIY disasters, and other strange discoveries that could make your hair stand on end. 

And while we might raise an eyebrow (or two), rest assured, we’ll still diligently report that troublesome stain on the basement floor and the yard grading that draws all the water into a small lake beneath your bedroom window. It’s all part of the wonderfully weird adventure of home inspection. Just do us a favor, and try to keep the taxidermied squirrels to a minimum, okay?

Buying or Selling a Home in Western North Carolina?

Avoid unpleasant surprises! Contact Asheville Home Inspector Peter Young before signing any contracts. Call (828) 808-4980, or click here to make an appointment.

The post Dust Bunny Dynasties and Other Strange Discoveries: Confessions of a Home Inspector appeared first on Peter Young Home Inspections.

Considering the recent catastrophic effects of Hurricane Helene on Western North Carolina, it’s likely that a significant number of homes for sale in the area have suffered water damage.

Water damage can be a costly and disruptive problem for homeowners. As a potential home buyer, it’s essential to be vigilant and know how to spot the signs. Here’s a guide to help you identify potential water damage, assess its severity, and make informed decisions about whether to proceed with a home purchase.

Why it matters

Water damage must never be taken lightly. It can lead to a host of issues, including:

Structural Damage: Water can weaken the structural integrity of a home, affecting walls, floors, and foundations.

Mold Growth: Damp conditions create the perfect breeding ground for mold, which can trigger respiratory problems and allergies.

Electrical Hazards: Water damage can compromise electrical systems, leading to short circuits and fire hazards.

Decreased Property Value: Water damage can significantly reduce the value of a property.

Water damage red flags

Water damage can hide in clever ways. Knowing what to look for puts you in the driver’s seat. Here are some signs:

• Visible Water Stains: Look for water stains on ceilings, walls, and floors. These can be discolored patches or streaks. Check for water marks on carpets and upholstery. Inspect basements and crawl spaces for signs of past flooding.
• Musty Odors: A persistent, unpleasant odor, often described as “musty” or “mildew-like,” can indicate hidden water damage. Your nose knows! Use your sense of smell to detect any unusual odors.
• Peeling Paint and Wallpaper: Blistering, peeling, or bubbling paint can be a sign of water damage. Water damage can also cause wallpaper to loosen or discolor.
• Mold Growth: Visible mold growth, often appearing as black, green, or gray patches, is a clear indication of water damage. Look for mold in hidden areas like behind cabinets, under sinks, and in crawl spaces.
• Wood Rot and Decay: Inspect wooden beams, joists, and framing for signs of rot or decay. Look for soft, spongy, or discolored wood.
• Electrical Issues: Be cautious if you notice flickering lights, frequent power outages, or a burning smell. Water damage can compromise electrical wiring, leading to safety hazards.
• Foundation Problems: Cracks in the foundation, uneven floors, or doors that stick can be signs of water damage affecting the foundation.

How to know for sure

When you spot tell-tale signs of water damage, here are some additional steps to take:

• Hire a Professional Inspector: A qualified home inspector can conduct a thorough examination and identify potential water damage issues.
• Ask the Seller Questions: Inquire about any past water damage incidents, repairs, and insurance claims filed.
• Review Property Records: Check property records for any water damage claims or insurance reports.
• Use a Moisture Meter:  A moisture meter can help detect hidden water damage in walls, floors, and ceilings.

Potential solutions for water damage

Does uncovering water damage mean you should walk away from a home purchase? That depends upon the severity of damage. For minor damage, repairs can be negotiated with the seller.

For minor water damage, some common solutions include:

• Drying out affected areas with dehumidifiers and fans.
• Cleaning and disinfecting surfaces to prevent mold growth.
• Replacing damaged materials like drywall, flooring, or insulation.

Severe water damage is far more costly and extensive and may include:

• Structural repairs to address foundation issues or weakened framing.
• Mold remediation to remove and clean up mold-infested areas.
• Electrical system repairs or replacement.
• Complete renovation of affected areas.

To buy or not to buy… That is the question!

Should you walk away? When considering a property with potential water damage, weigh the following factors:

• Severity of the Damage: Evaluate the extent of the damage and the potential costs of repairs.
• Seller’s Willingness to Disclose: A transparent seller who is upfront about the issue may be more willing to negotiate a fair price or make necessary repairs.
• Your Budget and Time Constraints: Consider your financial resources and the time you’re willing to invest in repairs and renovations.
• Long-Term Impact: Assess how water damage might affect the property’s value and your future plans.

If water damage is minor and the seller is willing to make necessary repairs, it may be worthwhile to proceed with the purchase. However, if the damage is severe or the seller is unwilling to address the issue, you might just want to pass on the deal.

By understanding the signs of water damage and taking a proactive approach, you can protect yourself from costly repairs and ensure a sound investment in your future home.

Buying or selling a home in Western North Carolina?

Avoid unpleasant surprises! Contact Asheville Home Inspector Peter Young before signing any contracts. Call (828) 808-4980, or click here to make an appointment.

The post Unmasking water damage: A buyer’s guide appeared first on Peter Young Home Inspections.

Peter Young Home Inspections is open for business to take care of all your home inspection needs.

If you suspect your home was damaged in the recent hurricane, we are offering limited storm damage inspections, such as:

• Roof • Exterior • Basement • Attic • Crawlspace

Please call Peter Young at 828-808-4980 for pricing.

For regular home inspections, please see our contact information below to arrange an appointment.

Winterize your home now to stay cozy

Autumn has passed its prime. Dazzling gold and red are giving way to brown, and the trees are laying down their crunchy, leafy carpets everywhere. As the crisp autumn air becomes cooler, it’s time to prepare your home for the upcoming winter months.

A well-winterized home not only ensures comfort but also helps you save on energy costs. By taking the necessary steps to winterize your home, you can enjoy a warm and cozy winter season. Let’s take a look.

The great outdoors

Insulate pipes: One of the most crucial steps in winterizing your home is to protect your plumbing system from freezing temperatures. Insulate exposed pipes, particularly those located in unheated areas like basements, attics, and crawl spaces. Use pipe insulation foam or heat tape to wrap pipes effectively.

Drain outdoor faucets: To prevent freezing and potential pipe bursts, turn off the water supply to outdoor faucets and drain them completely. You can also attach a frost-proof faucet cover to provide additional protection. If you don’t have a shut-off for outdoor faucets, protect them with an insulating cover that is available at most home supply stores. Polar Cap is an effective and inexpensive option.

Clean gutters and downspouts: Clogged gutters can lead to ice dams, which can cause significant damage to your roof and home’s interior. Remove leaves, twigs, and other debris from gutters and downspouts to ensure proper water drainage.

Trim trees and shrubs: Overhanging branches can damage your roof and power lines during heavy snowfall or strong winds. Keep trees and shrubs away from your roof line.

Inspect your roof: A well-maintained roof is essential for keeping your home warm and dry. Inspect your roof for missing or damaged shingles, and repair any issues promptly. Consider hiring a professional inspector for a thorough assessment.

Indoor preparations

Check your heating system: Schedule a professional inspection and tune-up of your heating system to ensure it’s working efficiently.

Change the air filter regularly to improve airflow and reduce energy consumption.

If you have a fireplace or woodburning stove, clean the chimney and flue to prevent carbon monoxide buildup.

Cleaning your fireplace and chimney is essential to remove creosote buildup and prevent chimney fires. Stock up on firewood and ensure your fireplace is in good working condition.

Seal air leaks: Drafts can significantly impact your home’s energy efficiency and comfort. Seal any gaps or cracks around windows, doors, and other openings to prevent cold air from entering your home. Use weatherstripping, caulk, or insulation foam to seal these areas effectively.

Insulate your attic: Proper attic insulation is crucial for maintaining a comfortable indoor temperature. Ensure your attic is adequately insulated to minimize heat loss. If necessary, add additional insulation to improve energy efficiency. Click here for an Energy Star article on attic insulation.

Reverse ceiling fans: During the winter months, reverse the direction of your ceiling fans to clockwise rotation. This will push warm air downward, creating a more efficient heating system.

Additional steps for winter comfort

Wait! There’s more.

Take these additional steps to stay warm and cozy during those cold winter months.

Your preparation will pay dividends in both comfort and in lower energy bills.

• Install Storm Windows or Weatherstripping: Storm windows can significantly improve your home’s energy efficiency. If you don’t have storm windows, apply weatherstripping to seal gaps around your existing windows. Here’s a guide to weatherstripping from This Old House.
• Use Thermal Curtains: Thermal curtains can help insulate your home by reducing heat loss through windows.
• Lower Your Thermostat: Lowering your thermostat by a few degrees can save energy and reduce heating costs.
• Use a Programmable Thermostat: A programmable thermostat allows you to set specific temperatures for different times of the day, optimizing energy usage.
• Keep Your Home Humidified: Dry air can irritate your skin and respiratory system. Use a humidifier to add moisture to the air and improve indoor comfort.

By following these tips, you can ensure your home is ready to withstand the winter weather and stay warm, cozy, and energy-efficient all season long!

Buying or selling a home in Western North Carolina?

Avoid unpleasant surprises! Contact Asheville Home Inspector Peter Young before signing any contracts. Call (828) 808-4980, or click here to make an appointment.

The post Open for business appeared first on Peter Young Home Inspections.

A special message from Peter Young

Recently, Western North Carolina was struck by a weather disaster of historic proportions. Much of Asheville and surrounding areas sustained heavy damage to property and infrastructure. Some areas were all but obliterated.

Nobody is certain about when power and water will be restored throughout the region. Stay informed about relief efforts and conditions in the area.

Please avoid falling for and spreading all the misinformation circulating on social media. Pitch in to help your neighbors where and when you can.

Here is a list of resources from the North Carolina Department of Public Safety.

Wishing you and your loved ones a safe and speedy recovery from the storm.

Peter Young Home Inspections is open for business to take care of all your home inspection needs.

If you suspect your home was damaged in the recent hurricane, we are offering limited storm damage inspections, such as:

• Roof
• Exterior
• Basement
• Attic
• Crawlspace

Please call Peter Young at 828-808-4980 for pricing.

NOTE: For regular home inspections, please see our contact information below to arrange an appointment.

The time to prepare for disaster is NOW

Natural weather disasters can strike at any time, leaving homeowners scrambling to protect their family and their home. While we can’t prevent these disasters from occurring, we can take proactive steps to prepare our homes and minimize their impact to life and property.

In this post, we will discuss simple and effective ways to prepare your home for various natural weather disasters, including hurricanes, tornadoes, floods, and winter storms.

Here’s a readiness checklist of tasks to do before a weather emergency is breathing down your neck.

Let’s start on the outside of your home. These steps should be taken well in advance of a storm’s arrival.

• Trim trees and shrubs: One of the most important things you can do to protect your home is to trim any trees or shrubs near your roofline. Branches can break off during storms and crash down on your roof. Also, inspect trees that are within falling distance of your home. If they are old and appear weak and rotted, arrange for a professional to remove them. Falling trees can destroy your home and cause serious injury or death.
• Clean gutters and downspouts: Clogged gutters and downspouts can lead to water damage to your roof and cause flooding near entryways during heavy rain. Make sure gutters and downspouts are clean and free of debris.
• Secure outdoor objects: Put away any outdoor objects that could blow around in the wind, such as lawn furniture, toys, flower pots, hanging baskets, and garbage cans.
• Install storm shutters or storm windows: Storm shutters and storm windows can help protect your windows from damage during high winds and in the event of flying debris.
• Consider a whole-house generator: A whole-house generator can provide backup power during a power outage. These are expensive, but well worth the price if power is out for days. If you are considering a whole-house generator, be sure to have it professionally installed. Improper installation can cause serious injury or death. Click here to learn more about whole-house propane generators.
• Install a buried propane tank: A buried propane tank can provide a reliable source of fuel for your generator. Go for 500 or even a thousand gallons, if you’re looking for longer-term protection. This, too is costly, but can bring real peace of mind during extended outages. Some companies will sell you the tank, but many others rent it for a nominal annual price. If you rent the tank, then you must buy propane from that same company. Some companies will bury the tank as part of the deal, but others leave it up to you to find a company to do the deed.
• Install a propane heater that needs no electricity. If you’re burying a propane tank, why not have a propane heater installed in your main living area? Be sure it’s one that requires no electricity to operate. Empire heaters can operate as radiant heaters during power outages. They also have fans to help distribute the heat when the power is on. Do a search online for distributors in your area. NOTE: We recommend only direct vented heaters. And always have a carbon monoxide detector in the room with your heater.
• Prepare your fireplace or wood stove: If you have a fireplace or wood burning stove, be sure to have your chimney or flue pipe inspected and cleaned annually. Also, be sure you have enough wood stored to get you through several weeks in a winter emergency.
• Check your roof: Inspect your roof for damage after a storm. If you find any damage, be sure to have it repaired quickly to avoid additional property damage.

Interior home preparations

These are the steps we recommend for the inside of your home, and to be sure your family is prepared for emergencies.

• Develop an evacuation plan: If you live in an area that is prone to natural disasters, it is important to have an evacuation plan in place. Decide where you will go and how you will get there.
• Prepare your family: Talk to your family about what to do in case of a natural disaster. Make sure everyone knows where to go and how to contact each other.
• Assemble a disaster supply kit: A disaster supply kit should include everything you need to survive for several days without power or water. This kit should include food, water, first aid supplies, flashlights, a battery-powered radio, and a change of clothes.
• Change batteries in smoke detectors and carbon monoxide detectors: Make sure your smoke detectors and carbon monoxide detectors have fresh batteries.
• Stock up on supplies: Stock up on essential supplies, such as canned food, water, and batteries. If you have a gas stove, you can cook with it during power outages,
• Have a backup plan for communication: If your phone lines are down, you may need to use a backup method of communication, such as a satellite phone or a ham radio. A ham radio will require a source of electricity.

Some additional steps you need to take

Wait! You’re not done yet.

Once you’ve covered the steps above, here are additional recommendations to be prepared for weather emergencies:

• Stay informed: Stay informed about the weather forecast and any impending storms.
• Be prepared to evacuate: If you are ordered to evacuate, be prepared to leave immediately.
• Stay safe during a storm: If you are caught in a storm, stay indoors and away from windows.
• Sign up for emergency alerts: Sign up for emergency alerts from your local government. This will help you stay informed about any impending storms.
• Learn first aid: Learn basic first aid so that you can help yourself or others in case of an emergency.
• Support your community: Volunteer with your local emergency management agency or Red Cross. This will help you learn more about disaster preparedness and response.
• Stay calm and collected: If a natural disaster strikes, it is important to stay calm and collected. This will help you think clearly and make good decisions.
• Have a plan for flushing toilets if you have a well and the power goes out: If you have a well and the power goes out, your well pump will not be operational to provide your toilets (or the rest of your home) with water. However, you can still flush your toilet by using a bucket of water. Fill several five-gallon bottles with water before the storm strikes. Another trick is to fill your bathtub prior to the storm to fill your bucket. Test this out and be sure your tub drain holds the water. If it doesn’t there are drain plugs available at hardware stores. Just fill your bucket with water and pour it into the toilet tank to the proper level. This will allow you to flush the toilet and help to prevent sewage or septic backups.
• Never use portable propane or other fuel camping stoves indoors: Use of camping stoves indoor creates carbon monoxide, which can lead to serious injury or death.

By taking these steps, you can help to ensure that you and your family are safer and more prepared for whatever comes your way.

Buying or selling a home in Asheville?

Avoid unpleasant surprises! Contact Asheville Home Inspector Peter Young before signing any contracts. Call (828) 808-4980, or click here to make an appointment.

The post How to prepare for weather disasters appeared first on Peter Young Home Inspections.

People often ask if a home inspection can kill a real estate deal? The simple answer would be no. An inspection of itself is not the reason deals are called off. However, there are times when the inspector finds serious issues with a house, which can cause negotiations between buyer and seller to break down, and the deal may fall apart.

First, let’s define the role of a home inspector. An inspector is a professional hired by buyers or sellers to carefully inspect a house and inform you of things that may be broken and in need of repair or replacing. When he or she does find issues in a home, the report may recommend seeking out an “expert,” such as a licensed electrician, roofer, plumber, or HVAC specialist for further evaluation or remediation. That’s because most of the time, inspectors are not licensed in these fields.

In most cases, the buyer hires the inspector and pays him to do his job and present his report. There are times when an inspection may uncover serious issues that may cause buyers to walk away from the deal. However, the inspector presents the findings in a neutral fashion, without getting involved in negotiations between the seller and the buyer.

As a home buyer, do you need an inspection? That’s a resounding YES! North Carolina is a “buyer beware” state. As a buyer, it is your responsibility to learn everything you can about a property before signing on the dotted line. When trouble is found, you can request repairs or a discount for the cost of the repairs, but if the seller won’t budge, you have the option of walking away from the deal.

The greater Asheville area is still a hot seller’s market, so negotiation may be off the table for small issues, but major defects are a different matter entirely. Let’s take a peek at some of the discoveries that sometimes derail the sale of a home.

Water damage and mold

Mold forms from damp or even wet conditions. Moisture in the house can come from a leak in the roof or chimney, cracked foundation walls, flooding, failing siding, and more.

Mold in the attic or basement left unchecked can cause problems in the home’s interior.

If you find mold and moisture on the insulation in your attic, make an appointment with a licensed roofing company to find and eliminate the problem at its source. Then you’ll need to consult a mold remediation company to clean it up.

Water and mold in homes may cause some buyers to walk away from the deal.

Major foundation issues

A home’s foundation is the core upon which the structure rests. Major problems with the foundation will likely reveal other issues in the home, such as:

• Uneven floors
• Sticking or tilted doors and windows
• Dampness or water in the basement

Minor cracks in the foundation are normal, since all houses settle over time. However, large cracks can be a cause of concern and require a foundation expert to estimate the potential cost of repair.

Major foundation repairs can range in the tens of thousands of dollars. Discuss solutions with the seller, such as getting them to repair the problem. This may have to be fixed before the deal can go through, because lenders may reject a property with serious foundation issues. If the seller refuses, then the buyer might choose to end the deal.

Roof repair or replacement

A roof is more than just a barrier from the elements. It helps maintain the home’s structural integrity. Instructors will look for loose or missing shingles, soft spots, and signs of water damage. Even relatively new roofs can lose shingles in storms. These are easily replaceable, but rotted wood underneath the shingles can be an expensive fix and may signal the need for complete roof replacement.

Can complete roof replacement be a deal-breaker? That depends. If the roof is shot and needs immediate replacement, some folks will amend their offer, or they might request the seller make the repairs, or they might just walk away from the deal.

Finding asbestos in the home

Older homes may have asbestos, which, when disturbed, can cause a fatal form of lung cancer called mesothelioma. Before being banned in the USA, asbestos could be found in flooring, drywall, attic insulation, siding, and pipe insulation.

The problem occurs if you’re doing renovation and repairs, and the material breaks up and gets into the air (and into your lungs). If you have this in your home and you plan on doing renovations, then you will need to get the material tested and removed by an accredited and reputable environmental contractor. This can be costly (up to $20 per square foot) and may become a deal-breaker.

Polybutylene piping

Polybutylene piping is a type of plastic resin used for indoor plumbing in homes from the late 70s through late 90s. The most common color of “Poly B” was light gray, but there were other colors, such as blue, silver, black, or white, depending upon region and manufacturer.

The main problem with Poly B piping in homes was its susceptibility to degradation and eventual failure over time, resulting in leaks and burst pipes, and causing sometimes catastrophic water damage. 

There are other types of plastic pipes found in homes, but if they are gray and flexible, chances are they are Poly B. Your home inspector should be able to identify them, or may recommend getting a licensed plumber to confirm the findings. Many homes built with Poly B are likely facing the need for replacement with more reliable materials.

Depending upon size, repair costs can range from several thousand dollars to more than $15,000. Discovery of Poly B is, at the very least, a reason for renegotiating a home’s selling price.

Dangerous or outdated electrical system

Two potential sticking points in home deals are aluminum electrical wiring and old-fashioned knob and tube wiring. Aluminum wiring can be trouble, because the connection to outlets, switches, fixtures, and lights can become overheated. Continual heating and cooling can result in loose connections and fires. Many insurance companies will not underwrite homes with aluminum wiring.

Knob and tube wiring lacks a ground wire for safety. An easy way to spot it is all the electrical outlets in the home have only two-prongs.

Electrical repairs and wiring upgrades can be pricey, and some buyers may choose to walk if the seller won’t budge on the price or opt to do the repair.

The need for speed!

If your inspection report reveals serious issues in the home, begin negotiations with the seller immediately, and if you do need to walk away, do it quickly. Your purchase agreement usually contains clauses about a bad inspection report of a low home appraisal. 

Your realtor and attorney can advise you on withdrawing your offer and arranging to get your earnest money returned. Then you’ll be free to find another, more suitable home for your needs.

Buying or selling a home in Western North Carolina?

Avoid unpleasant surprises! Contact Asheville Home Inspector Peter Young before signing any contracts. Call (828) 808-4980, or click here to make an appointment.

The post Potential home inspection deal-breakers appeared first on Peter Young Home Inspections.