Freezing temperatures, howling winds, and ice dams the size of Samurai swords…

Spring is finally here! The birds are singing, daffodils are pushing through the soil, and your house is groaning like it just woke up from a three-month bender.

Truth is, winter is incredibly tough on your home. Between freezing temperatures, howling winds, and ice dams the size of Samurai swords, your beloved abode has been working overtime just to keep you from turning into a human popsicle. 

Now that spring has sprung, your house has a massive “winter hangover.” It’s creaky, it’s leaky, and there’s a distinct possibility it’s hiding some regrettable decisions in the basement.

Here at Peter Young Home Inspections, we know what winter can do! Think of us as the metaphorical aspirin and strong cup of black coffee your home desperately needs right now. To help you nurse your property back to health, we’ve put together this nifty spring recovery guide.

Roofs and Gutters: Curing the Hangover

Your roof took the brunt of winter’s wrath. It wore a heavy bonnet of snow and ice without complaining, but now it’s feeling the aftereffects.

• The Shingle Check: Grab a pair of binoculars (so you don’t actually have to climb a ladder right now) and scan your roof from the yard.
• Look for missing, cracked, or curling shingles. Winter winds love to rip these off, leaving your roof exposed to spring showers.
  • The Remedy: If you spot damage, call a local roofing professional to patch in new shingles. Unless you have excellent balance or a death wish, leave steep roof repairs to the pros.
• The Gutter Cleanse: Your gutters are currently stuffed with wet leaves, twigs, and whatever treasures the neighborhood squirrels decided to hoard. Have you heard about the lady who found Elvis in her gutters?
  • The Remedy: Grab a sturdy ladder, a pair of thick gloves, and a bucket. Scoop out the muck, then flush the gutters with a garden hose to make sure the downspouts are clear. Reattach any gutters that are pulling away from the fascia board.

• The Gutter Cleanse: Your gutters are currently stuffed with wet leaves, twigs, and whatever treasures the neighborhood squirrels decided to hoard. Have you heard about the lady who found Elvis in her gutters?
  • The Remedy: Grab a sturdy ladder, a pair of thick gloves, and a bucket. Scoop out the muck, then flush the gutters with a garden hose to make sure the downspouts are clear. Reattach any gutters that are pulling away from the fascia board.

Foundation & Exterior: Treating Dry, Cracked Skin

When the ground freezes and thaws, it expands and contracts. This phenomenon, known as frost heave, can do a number on your foundation and exterior.

• Hunt for Cracks: Take a slow walk around the perimeter of your house. Look for new cracks in the foundation, brickwork, or stucco.
  • The Remedy: Small, hairline cracks can easily be sealed with a polyurethane masonry caulk to keep moisture and bugs out. However, if the crack is wider than a penny or looks like a jagged staircase, skip the DIY and call a structural engineer.
• Check the Grading: The dirt around your house should slope away from your foundation. Winter has a sneaky way of eroding this soil.
  • The Remedy: Grab a shovel and pack some dense topsoil (not mulch, which retains water) around the foundation. Tamp it down so it creates a gentle downward slope away from your house, redirecting rainwater into the yard and out of your basement.

Attic & Basement: Evicting Uninvited Guests

When the temperature dropped last winter, every critter in the neighborhood started looking for a warm place to crash. 

Unfortunately, your attic and basement were the hottest clubs in town.

Check the Grading: The dirt around your house should slope away from your foundation. Winter has a sneaky way of eroding this soil.

• The Basement Sweep:  Go downstairs with a good flashlight. You are looking for moisture, efflorescence (that powdery white stuff on concrete), or a musty smell that screams “mold.”
  • The Remedy: If the air feels damp, invest in a good dehumidifier and let it run continuously. If you find active puddles, trace the source and seal the interior concrete walls with waterproofing paint.
• The Attic Inspection: Pop your head into the attic. Look for shredded insulation, droppings, or daylight peeking through the roof boards.
  • The Remedy: If you find evidence of a rodent rave, you need to evict them. Seal off entry points from the outside using steel wool and caulk (mice can’t chew through steel wool). Set traps inside, or better yet, call a pest control service to play bouncer and clear the room.

Windows & Doors: Fixing Creaky, Leaky Joints

Grab a caulking gun and run a fresh bead of exterior-grade silicone caulk around the window frames.

Winter is notorious for ruining weatherstripping. Expanding ice and shrinking wood can leave your windows and doors feeling woozy and off-balance.

• The Breeze Test: On a windy spring day, run your hand around the edges of your closed windows and doors. If you feel a breeze, your weatherstripping has given up the ghost.
• The Remedy: Peel off the old, cracked weatherstripping and wipe the door jamb or window frame clean. Apply new self-adhesive foam or rubber stripping. For the exterior, grab a caulking gun and run a fresh bead of exterior-grade silicone caulk around the window frames to seal out the spring rain.

Need a Professional Diagnosis?

Nursing a house through a winter hangover takes time, effort, and a keen eye. While this DIY checklist is a great place to start, sometimes you need a professional to give it the real hairy eyeball!

If you notice something concerning, or if you just want the peace of mind that comes from knowing your home is in top shape for the year ahead, we’re here to help. We’ll comb through your home from the chimney to the basement floor, giving you a comprehensive breakdown of what’s working, what’s not, and what needs a little TLC.

Don’t let your house suffer through spring. Give us a call today , and let’s get your home ready to enjoy the sunshine!

Buying or selling a home in WNC?

Avoid unpleasant surprises! Contact Asheville Home Inspector Peter Young before signing any contracts. Call (828) 808-4980, or click here to make an appointment.

The post Winter Home Hangover: A Guide to Spring Detox appeared first on Peter Young Home Inspections.

So, you’ve put an offer on a home, it’s been accepted, and you’re practically measuring for curtains. Then comes the home inspection – the moment that taps you on the shoulder and whispers, “Hey, buddy, your dream house has secrets!”

Don’t get the wrong idea. Home inspectors are Superheroes 🦸🏻 in sensible shoes, armed with flashlights and moisture meters. But sometimes, their findings can make your heart do a little tap dance. 

Here are six common culprits inspectors might unearth, along with a dose of what-to-do, and a sprinkle of “try not to picture the worst-case scenario.”

1) The Roof’s Having a Bad Hair Day (Missing or Damaged Shingles)

The “Uh Oh” Factor: Finding bald spots or cracked shingles can feel like your future home is sporting a bad comb-over. What’s hiding beneath? It may foreshadow potential leaks, and nobody wants a surprise indoor waterfall.

What to Do: Don’t immediately envision Noah’s Ark pulling up to your curb. Did your home inspector see any signs of water damage inside the house? A few missing shingles might be a simple fix. Get a roofer to assess the damage and provide a quote. You can then negotiate with the seller for repairs or a price reduction. Think of it as asking for a discount on a slightly balding, but still structurally sound, head. But if the whole roof is shot, full replacement will be costly!

2) The Foundation’s Not All It’s Cracked Up to Be

The “Uh Oh” Factor: Seeing cracks in the foundation can send shivers down your spine. Does your future abode have a “split personality?” Are you about to live in a mini geological fault line?

What to Do: Take a few deep breaths! Hairline cracks are usually just a sign of normal settling. However, wider or horizontal cracks need attention. A structural engineer can evaluate the severity. Again, this is negotiation territory. Maybe the seller can contribute to the repair, or you factor it into your offer. Run if the floor is slanted or uneven. You don’t need your furniture sliding downhill every night.

3) The Electrical System is Stuck in the Disco Era (Outdated Wiring)

The “Uh Oh” Factor: Discovering knob-and-tube wiring or improperly installed wiring isn’t ideal for powering your collection of smart appliances. It can be a fire hazard, and it could make your insurance company give you the stink eye!

What to Do: Modernizing the electrical system is a significant but necessary upgrade. Get quotes from licensed electricians. This is a serious safety concern, so don’t skimp. You’ll likely need to negotiate with the seller, as this isn’t a “slap some tape on it” situation. It’s essential for modern living. And while “Burning Down the House,” may be one of your favorite retro songs, you never want that to happen IRL!

4) The Plumbing Doubles As a Sprinkler System

The “Uh Oh” Factor: Finding drips, damp spots, or evidence of past leaks can make you wonder if your water bill will rival the national debt. Hidden leaks can also lead to mold – the unwelcome house guest that refuses to leave.

What to Do: Small leaks might be easy fixes, but persistent or hidden ones need professional attention. A plumber can diagnose and repair the issue. Negotiate with the seller for these repairs, especially if there’s evidence of water damage. Nobody wants to purchase a home that’s slowly turning into an indoor swamp.

5) Surprise Roommates (Pest Infestations)

The “Uh Oh” Factor:Discovering evidence of termites, rodents, or other unwanted critters can make you feel like you’re starring in your own personal horror movie. 

Nobody wants to share their living space with things that chew on wood or leave little “presents.” 💩

What to Do: A professional pest control company is your new best friend! Get an inspection and treatment plan. This is not something to negotiate lightly.

Wood destroying organisms can affect the home’s structural integrity, and mortgage lenders may insist on proof that the problem was resolved. And try not to have nightmares about tiny landlords demanding rent in the walls.

6) The HVAC System Is Younger Than the Mountains, but Older Than the Trees

The “Uh Oh” Factor: That ancient furnace or AC unit might still be chugging along, but it’s likely costing a fortune in energy bills and could break down any minute. It’s the great grandpa of appliances, and while you respect its longevity, you’re pretty sure it won’t handle another summer.

What to Do: Get the system inspected by an HVAC professional. They can assess its lifespan and efficiency. You can negotiate for a price reduction to account for the eventual (and likely sooner rather than later) replacement. Think of it as getting a heads-up that you will need to budget for a new set of “lungs” for your house.

The Bottom Line and a Gentle Nudge to Not Panic

Finding issues during a home inspection is common. It’s what the process is for! It gives you valuable information and the opportunity to negotiate. Don’t let every “uh oh” moment send you into a tailspin. Gather information, get professional opinions, and work with your real estate agent to find a solution that works for you. 

Remember, even the most charming houses have their quirks – it’s just about figuring out if those quirks are manageable or deal-breakers. Good luck, and may your future home be everything you dream!

Buying or selling a home in Western North Carolina?

Avoid unpleasant surprises! Contact Asheville Home Inspector Peter Young before signing any contracts. Call (828) 808-4980, or click here to make an appointment.

The post Six Shades of “Uh Oh”: Common Home Inspection Issues (Don’t Panic!) appeared first on Peter Young Home Inspections.

A special message from Peter Young

Recently, Western North Carolina was struck by a weather disaster of historic proportions. Much of Asheville and surrounding areas sustained heavy damage to property and infrastructure. Some areas were all but obliterated.

Nobody is certain about when power and water will be restored throughout the region. Stay informed about relief efforts and conditions in the area.

Please avoid falling for and spreading all the misinformation circulating on social media. Pitch in to help your neighbors where and when you can.

Here is a list of resources from the North Carolina Department of Public Safety.

Wishing you and your loved ones a safe and speedy recovery from the storm.

Peter Young Home Inspections is open for business to take care of all your home inspection needs.

If you suspect your home was damaged in the recent hurricane, we are offering limited storm damage inspections, such as:

• Roof
• Exterior
• Basement
• Attic
• Crawlspace

Please call Peter Young at 828-808-4980 for pricing.

NOTE: For regular home inspections, please see our contact information below to arrange an appointment.

The time to prepare for disaster is NOW

Natural weather disasters can strike at any time, leaving homeowners scrambling to protect their family and their home. While we can’t prevent these disasters from occurring, we can take proactive steps to prepare our homes and minimize their impact to life and property.

In this post, we will discuss simple and effective ways to prepare your home for various natural weather disasters, including hurricanes, tornadoes, floods, and winter storms.

Here’s a readiness checklist of tasks to do before a weather emergency is breathing down your neck.

Let’s start on the outside of your home. These steps should be taken well in advance of a storm’s arrival.

• Trim trees and shrubs: One of the most important things you can do to protect your home is to trim any trees or shrubs near your roofline. Branches can break off during storms and crash down on your roof. Also, inspect trees that are within falling distance of your home. If they are old and appear weak and rotted, arrange for a professional to remove them. Falling trees can destroy your home and cause serious injury or death.
• Clean gutters and downspouts: Clogged gutters and downspouts can lead to water damage to your roof and cause flooding near entryways during heavy rain. Make sure gutters and downspouts are clean and free of debris.
• Secure outdoor objects: Put away any outdoor objects that could blow around in the wind, such as lawn furniture, toys, flower pots, hanging baskets, and garbage cans.
• Install storm shutters or storm windows: Storm shutters and storm windows can help protect your windows from damage during high winds and in the event of flying debris.
• Consider a whole-house generator: A whole-house generator can provide backup power during a power outage. These are expensive, but well worth the price if power is out for days. If you are considering a whole-house generator, be sure to have it professionally installed. Improper installation can cause serious injury or death. Click here to learn more about whole-house propane generators.
• Install a buried propane tank: A buried propane tank can provide a reliable source of fuel for your generator. Go for 500 or even a thousand gallons, if you’re looking for longer-term protection. This, too is costly, but can bring real peace of mind during extended outages. Some companies will sell you the tank, but many others rent it for a nominal annual price. If you rent the tank, then you must buy propane from that same company. Some companies will bury the tank as part of the deal, but others leave it up to you to find a company to do the deed.
• Install a propane heater that needs no electricity. If you’re burying a propane tank, why not have a propane heater installed in your main living area? Be sure it’s one that requires no electricity to operate. Empire heaters can operate as radiant heaters during power outages. They also have fans to help distribute the heat when the power is on. Do a search online for distributors in your area. NOTE: We recommend only direct vented heaters. And always have a carbon monoxide detector in the room with your heater.
• Prepare your fireplace or wood stove: If you have a fireplace or wood burning stove, be sure to have your chimney or flue pipe inspected and cleaned annually. Also, be sure you have enough wood stored to get you through several weeks in a winter emergency.
• Check your roof: Inspect your roof for damage after a storm. If you find any damage, be sure to have it repaired quickly to avoid additional property damage.

Interior home preparations

These are the steps we recommend for the inside of your home, and to be sure your family is prepared for emergencies.

• Develop an evacuation plan: If you live in an area that is prone to natural disasters, it is important to have an evacuation plan in place. Decide where you will go and how you will get there.
• Prepare your family: Talk to your family about what to do in case of a natural disaster. Make sure everyone knows where to go and how to contact each other.
• Assemble a disaster supply kit: A disaster supply kit should include everything you need to survive for several days without power or water. This kit should include food, water, first aid supplies, flashlights, a battery-powered radio, and a change of clothes.
• Change batteries in smoke detectors and carbon monoxide detectors: Make sure your smoke detectors and carbon monoxide detectors have fresh batteries.
• Stock up on supplies: Stock up on essential supplies, such as canned food, water, and batteries. If you have a gas stove, you can cook with it during power outages,
• Have a backup plan for communication: If your phone lines are down, you may need to use a backup method of communication, such as a satellite phone or a ham radio. A ham radio will require a source of electricity.

Some additional steps you need to take

Wait! You’re not done yet.

Once you’ve covered the steps above, here are additional recommendations to be prepared for weather emergencies:

• Stay informed: Stay informed about the weather forecast and any impending storms.
• Be prepared to evacuate: If you are ordered to evacuate, be prepared to leave immediately.
• Stay safe during a storm: If you are caught in a storm, stay indoors and away from windows.
• Sign up for emergency alerts: Sign up for emergency alerts from your local government. This will help you stay informed about any impending storms.
• Learn first aid: Learn basic first aid so that you can help yourself or others in case of an emergency.
• Support your community: Volunteer with your local emergency management agency or Red Cross. This will help you learn more about disaster preparedness and response.
• Stay calm and collected: If a natural disaster strikes, it is important to stay calm and collected. This will help you think clearly and make good decisions.
• Have a plan for flushing toilets if you have a well and the power goes out: If you have a well and the power goes out, your well pump will not be operational to provide your toilets (or the rest of your home) with water. However, you can still flush your toilet by using a bucket of water. Fill several five-gallon bottles with water before the storm strikes. Another trick is to fill your bathtub prior to the storm to fill your bucket. Test this out and be sure your tub drain holds the water. If it doesn’t there are drain plugs available at hardware stores. Just fill your bucket with water and pour it into the toilet tank to the proper level. This will allow you to flush the toilet and help to prevent sewage or septic backups.
• Never use portable propane or other fuel camping stoves indoors: Use of camping stoves indoor creates carbon monoxide, which can lead to serious injury or death.

By taking these steps, you can help to ensure that you and your family are safer and more prepared for whatever comes your way.

Buying or selling a home in Asheville?

Avoid unpleasant surprises! Contact Asheville Home Inspector Peter Young before signing any contracts. Call (828) 808-4980, or click here to make an appointment.

The post How to prepare for weather disasters appeared first on Peter Young Home Inspections.

People often ask if a home inspection can kill a real estate deal? The simple answer would be no. An inspection of itself is not the reason deals are called off. However, there are times when the inspector finds serious issues with a house, which can cause negotiations between buyer and seller to break down, and the deal may fall apart.

First, let’s define the role of a home inspector. An inspector is a professional hired by buyers or sellers to carefully inspect a house and inform you of things that may be broken and in need of repair or replacing. When he or she does find issues in a home, the report may recommend seeking out an “expert,” such as a licensed electrician, roofer, plumber, or HVAC specialist for further evaluation or remediation. That’s because most of the time, inspectors are not licensed in these fields.

In most cases, the buyer hires the inspector and pays him to do his job and present his report. There are times when an inspection may uncover serious issues that may cause buyers to walk away from the deal. However, the inspector presents the findings in a neutral fashion, without getting involved in negotiations between the seller and the buyer.

As a home buyer, do you need an inspection? That’s a resounding YES! North Carolina is a “buyer beware” state. As a buyer, it is your responsibility to learn everything you can about a property before signing on the dotted line. When trouble is found, you can request repairs or a discount for the cost of the repairs, but if the seller won’t budge, you have the option of walking away from the deal.

The greater Asheville area is still a hot seller’s market, so negotiation may be off the table for small issues, but major defects are a different matter entirely. Let’s take a peek at some of the discoveries that sometimes derail the sale of a home.

Water damage and mold

Mold forms from damp or even wet conditions. Moisture in the house can come from a leak in the roof or chimney, cracked foundation walls, flooding, failing siding, and more.

Mold in the attic or basement left unchecked can cause problems in the home’s interior.

If you find mold and moisture on the insulation in your attic, make an appointment with a licensed roofing company to find and eliminate the problem at its source. Then you’ll need to consult a mold remediation company to clean it up.

Water and mold in homes may cause some buyers to walk away from the deal.

Major foundation issues

A home’s foundation is the core upon which the structure rests. Major problems with the foundation will likely reveal other issues in the home, such as:

• Uneven floors
• Sticking or tilted doors and windows
• Dampness or water in the basement

Minor cracks in the foundation are normal, since all houses settle over time. However, large cracks can be a cause of concern and require a foundation expert to estimate the potential cost of repair.

Major foundation repairs can range in the tens of thousands of dollars. Discuss solutions with the seller, such as getting them to repair the problem. This may have to be fixed before the deal can go through, because lenders may reject a property with serious foundation issues. If the seller refuses, then the buyer might choose to end the deal.

Roof repair or replacement

A roof is more than just a barrier from the elements. It helps maintain the home’s structural integrity. Instructors will look for loose or missing shingles, soft spots, and signs of water damage. Even relatively new roofs can lose shingles in storms. These are easily replaceable, but rotted wood underneath the shingles can be an expensive fix and may signal the need for complete roof replacement.

Can complete roof replacement be a deal-breaker? That depends. If the roof is shot and needs immediate replacement, some folks will amend their offer, or they might request the seller make the repairs, or they might just walk away from the deal.

Finding asbestos in the home

Older homes may have asbestos, which, when disturbed, can cause a fatal form of lung cancer called mesothelioma. Before being banned in the USA, asbestos could be found in flooring, drywall, attic insulation, siding, and pipe insulation.

The problem occurs if you’re doing renovation and repairs, and the material breaks up and gets into the air (and into your lungs). If you have this in your home and you plan on doing renovations, then you will need to get the material tested and removed by an accredited and reputable environmental contractor. This can be costly (up to $20 per square foot) and may become a deal-breaker.

Polybutylene piping

Polybutylene piping is a type of plastic resin used for indoor plumbing in homes from the late 70s through late 90s. The most common color of “Poly B” was light gray, but there were other colors, such as blue, silver, black, or white, depending upon region and manufacturer.

The main problem with Poly B piping in homes was its susceptibility to degradation and eventual failure over time, resulting in leaks and burst pipes, and causing sometimes catastrophic water damage. 

There are other types of plastic pipes found in homes, but if they are gray and flexible, chances are they are Poly B. Your home inspector should be able to identify them, or may recommend getting a licensed plumber to confirm the findings. Many homes built with Poly B are likely facing the need for replacement with more reliable materials.

Depending upon size, repair costs can range from several thousand dollars to more than $15,000. Discovery of Poly B is, at the very least, a reason for renegotiating a home’s selling price.

Dangerous or outdated electrical system

Two potential sticking points in home deals are aluminum electrical wiring and old-fashioned knob and tube wiring. Aluminum wiring can be trouble, because the connection to outlets, switches, fixtures, and lights can become overheated. Continual heating and cooling can result in loose connections and fires. Many insurance companies will not underwrite homes with aluminum wiring.

Knob and tube wiring lacks a ground wire for safety. An easy way to spot it is all the electrical outlets in the home have only two-prongs.

Electrical repairs and wiring upgrades can be pricey, and some buyers may choose to walk if the seller won’t budge on the price or opt to do the repair.

The need for speed!

If your inspection report reveals serious issues in the home, begin negotiations with the seller immediately, and if you do need to walk away, do it quickly. Your purchase agreement usually contains clauses about a bad inspection report of a low home appraisal. 

Your realtor and attorney can advise you on withdrawing your offer and arranging to get your earnest money returned. Then you’ll be free to find another, more suitable home for your needs.

Buying or selling a home in Western North Carolina?

Avoid unpleasant surprises! Contact Asheville Home Inspector Peter Young before signing any contracts. Call (828) 808-4980, or click here to make an appointment.

The post Potential home inspection deal-breakers appeared first on Peter Young Home Inspections.

Ever heard of kickout flashing? We would not be surprised if the term is unfamiliar. It’s time to learn about it. Kickout flashing costs very little, but it may end up saving you thousands of dollars of repair for serious water damage to your home.

Let’s take a look at what it is. Kickout flashing is also called diverter flashing. What does it do? It diverts water away from walls in places where sloped roofs and walls meet. Water running down and into your walls can lead to structural damage, rot, and mold that may not be evident until the problem becomes severe. At that point, major home repair costs are looming.

Do ask, do tell!

The International Residential Code (IRC) has required kickout flashing since 2009, but most roofers won’t install them unless you ask. North Carolina Residential Building Code doesn’t mention it by name, but the instructions are clear:

“Flashings shall be installed at roof and wall intersections, wherever there is a change in roof slope or direction and around roof openings. A flashing shall be installed to divert the water away from where the eaves of a sloped roof intersect vertical sidewalls.” 

The code describes the flashing as extending a minimum of 4” up the sidewall and have a 110-degree angle. This is sufficient to divert water away from the wall, but not so severe as to trap debris or create ice dams in winter that can lead to water backing up along the wall. The code also states that if the flashing is metal, it must be corrosion-resistant with a thickness of not less than 0.019 inches (0.5 mm).

Put simply, kickout flashing is essential to protect your home from expensive water damage, and yet it’s often overlooked or even misunderstood by many roofers.

Check out this video of what can happen without kickout flashing.

Roof replacement time

If it’s time to replace your roof, this is a great time to install kickout flashing. Even if your local code doesn’t require it, we suggest strongly that you ask the roofer to include it. 

Most forms of siding can be cut and tweaked by a roofer during installation of kickout flashing. However, stucco, masonry stone, or bricks may require a specialist to make the repair.

Here’s a video of extensive damage inside a wall on a home with stone veneer that didn’t have kickout flashing.

Do it yourself!

Installing kickout flashing is not too hard if you’re an accomplished do-it-yourselfer. But if you have any doubts about your ability, hire a qualified contractor. If you do it incorrectly, you may end up with worse damage than if you hadn’t done it at all!

Click here for a video to show you how to install kickout flashing on vinyl siding.

Please note: There are areas of this repair where caulking is needed. Don’t skimp on caulk quality. Buy the really good stuff with long life expectancy. Even then, it would be a good idea to check up there at least once a year to make sure the caulking is still secure.

We really must insist!

If you’re buying new construction, insist on kickout flashing. Do the same if you’re having your roof replaced. Don’t assume the contractors will do that automatically. Most of them probably will not. Installation before the roof is built or replaced will cost extremely little.

Kickout flashing at your local home store or online generally costs around $10 to $15. And even if you are installing after the fact and forgoing do-it-yourself in favor of hiring a professional, installing kickout flashing should cost only a few hundred dollars. Compare that to the cost of tearing out siding, soffits, fascia, insulation, drywall, and more. 

It’s a no-brainer! If you don’t have kickout flashing on your home, our best advice is to have it installed as soon as possible.

The post <strong>Inexpensive kickout flashing protects your home from water damage</strong> appeared first on Peter Young Home Inspections.

If you’re in need of roof replacement, you may be asking yourself, “Should I install asphalt shingles again, or should I get a metal roof?” Perhaps you’ve already asked your roofer for two quotes so you can compare the two choices. The question isn’t so simple, and there are several factors to consider before deciding, as well as some pros and cons of both. First, let’s compare types of metal and shingle roofs.

Heavy metal!

One type of metal roofing is called standing seam. There are two types in this category. True standing seam are long, flat panels in which the fasteners that attach to your home’s frame are hidden underneath. This type of metal roof is very durable and energy-efficient.

The second type of standing seam roof has exposed fasteners. This type is far more prevalent than the hidden panel variety these days.

Another type is called a corrugated metal roof. These have exposed, visible fasteners. These strong, durable panels display a repeating wave pattern. Most of the time, corrugated metal roofs cost less in labor costs than their standing seam counterparts. These are used mostly for sheds and barns, rather than homes.

Hitting the asphalt

Generally, two types of asphalt shingles are used in roofing. The first is known as three-tab shingles. Three-tab shingles are the most commonly used because they are the least expensive. However, the expression, “you get what you pay for,” applies here. These shingles are thin and offer less protection against heavy winds and hail. They have a shorter manufacturer’s warranty than asphalt architectural shingles. If you’re on a low budget, you might find them appealing, but expect them to wear out sooner.

Asphalt architectural shingles are your other option. They’re thought of as a higher-end variety of asphalt roofing shingles. Also known as dimensional or laminated shingles, they are made by layering two shingles together to create a layered, 3-D look. Because there are two layers, they are more durable than their three-tab cousins, resulting in longer life expectancy and a longer warranty.

All of these mentioned are valid choices for replacing your roof, but each situation differs according to each homeowner’s needs. Let’s dive a bit deeper into the pros and cons of each method, starting with metal roofing.

Metal roof pros and cons

In recent years metal roofs have become very popular for both residential and commercial uses.

Metal Roof Pros

The most appealing pro of a metal roof is its lifespan. Metal roofs are tough, and most warranties begin at 40 years. Some cover 50 to 60 years, but under the right conditions metal roofs can last even longer. 

If you’re looking to stay in your “forever home,” a metal roof may be your “set it and forget it” roofing solution.

Another big plus is that metal is solar reflective, which means it pushes the sun’s heat away from your home. This means greater energy efficiency, especially during the heat of summer. 

In addition, metal roofs are environmentally friendly. Metal is a 100% recyclable material. Every single metal panel on a roof can be repurposed for other uses, making it a favorite of “green-minded” consumers.

Finally, some roofers install metal roofing using “layover installation.” The new material is laid directly over the old material (a shingle roof, for example). This brings down labor costs related to tear-down and disposal. People on a really tight budget may opt for this, but we don’t recommend it, nor do manufacturers of metal roofing. If there is damaged plywood beneath the existing layer, it would not show up during layover installation. 

Another reason that most manufacturers do not allow a metal roof to be installed over an old shingle roof is due to condensation between the metal and the shingle roof which will corrode the metal roof. Typically a spacer such as 1×4’s would need to be installed to provide air space. Be wary of roofers who want to do a layover installation without using spacers.

Metal Roof Cons

Higher Upfront Cost: Metal roofs cost more than asphalt shingle roofs. The cost of installing one may be double that of shingles. Throw in the longevity factor and metal is actually more cost effective, but many people are put off by the upfront costs of a metal roof.

Fewer Qualified Contractors: Most roofing contractors don’t have the tools and experience to install a metal roof. Those who do may be hard to get any time soon, since they likely have a long waiting list.

HOA Troubles: If you live in a housing development governed by a home owners association, you may not have the option of installing a metal roof. If the look of a metal roof or the color doesn’t match the rules of the neighborhood, the HOA will put the kibosh on it. Always talk to them first before spending your hard-earned money on a project that will get shut down.

Damage: While far more durable than their shingle counterparts, metal roofs are not invincible. Some are susceptible to corrosion and changes in patina. Very large hail may dent a metal roof, while still leaving it functional structurally. Many insurance carriers will not cover roof replacement when the roof is functional. However, metal roofs are quite strong, and most hail storms will not affect them.

Asphalt pros

More Contractors: There are far more contractors available who install standard asphalt shingle roofs. This means a shorter waiting period than for metal roofs. Be sure you shop around and check references to find a reliable contractor in your area.

Lower Upfront Cost: Asphalt shingle roofs run about half the cost of a metal roof. For this reason, they are far more common than metal roofs. They do offer excellent protection at a greater value, particularly the architectural shingle variety.

Warranty: Manufacturer warranties differ (some 10, some 15 years). You can even find roofing contractors that are certified by manufacturers such as Owens Corning. This ensures a higher level of workmanship, as well as a greater likelihood of actual warranty coverage once your roof has been installed.

Asphalt Cons

Lifespan: Asphalt is significantly weaker than metal, and will suffer greater damage over time from heavy rain, hail, snow, and wind. Metal roofs can last an owner’s lifetime, while asphalt may need several complete replacements during that time.

Limited Colors: Asphalt shingles offer very limited color choices, and they are not paintable. Metal roofs can be painted to any color imaginable, a great feature for businesses that want their buildings visually branded.

Poor Recyclability: It is very difficult to recycle asphalt shingles, and most will inevitably end their life in a landfill and take “forever” to break down. As mentioned earlier, metal roofs are 100% recyclable. Therefore, if environmental issues are important to you, this is a factor to weigh in your decision.

What Is the Verdict?

The choice of metal or asphalt for your next roof replacement is not always easy, but is mostly dependent on your budget, your needs, and your values. While metal roofs can cost twice as much as shingles, the longevity factor is something to consider. If you plan to stay in your home and pass it on to your children, a metal roof will be more cost-effective in the long haul.

Click here to see an article about roof replacement costs.

Buying or selling a home?

Avoid unpleasant surprises! Contact Asheville Home Inspector Peter Young before signing any contracts. Call (828) 808-4980, or click here to make an appointment.

The post Pros and cons of metal vs shingle roofs appeared first on Peter Young Home Inspections.

Does your asphalt shingle roof have black streaks, especially on the side facing north? This is very common in humid areas of the country. Often mistaken for mold or mildew, these stains are more likely caused by airborne spores of a blue-green algae species called Gloeocapsa Magma. Should you be worried? Is this a serious problem? Breathe easy. These spores do very little harm to your shingles, but they detract from the beauty of your home, especially if you are putting it up for sale any time soon. Even if you don’t intend to sell your home, you may be tired of seeing those black streaks.

Maybe you’ve noticed that stains and streaks are missing below any metal flashing on your roof. That’s because copper or zinc coatings on galvanized sheet metal are toxic to algae. So each time it rains, trace amounts of copper or zinc trickle down the roof and retard algae growth. 

You may also have noticed that algae stains are absent directly below the metal flashing around chimneys or roof vents. This is due to fact that copper and the zinc coating on galvanized sheet metal are toxic to algae. Every time it rains, trace amounts of metals are washed down the roof, inhibiting algae growth.
Let’s explore a few ways to eliminate Gloeocapsa Magma.

First, what NOT to do!

Never pressure wash asphalt shingles. The water pressure will remove the layer of grit from the shingles, rendering them less effective to protect the roof. It also may lift shingles up from the roof surface, making your home susceptible to water damage during rainstorms.

There are “professional” services out there that claim they can pressure wash your shingles. Don’t let them even try it.

Get out your chemistry set!

If you’re the “mad scientist” type, you might want to make your own algae-killing concoction. Get yourself a garden pump-up sprayer, and put these ingredients into it:

• One quart bleach
• One gallon of water
• A cup of trisodium phosphate (TSP) per gallon

NEVER mix any product that contains ammonia with bleach. Toxic fumes can be harmful or even fatal.
You’ll also need a bit more gear before you get started.

• Garden hose with spray nozzle
• Safety glasses or goggles
• Rubber gloves
• Old clothes
• Slip resistant shoes
• A ladder

Be sure to wear goggles to protect your eyes from the bleach solution. You may also want to consider wearing a mask that guards against fumes, especially if you’re sensitive to bleach. The gloves are for keeping the bleach off your hands. The slip-resistant shoes are a no-brainer. Rooftops can be dangerous even when dry. Use extreme caution when you get them wet.

Now you’re ready to begin. Spray this mixture liberally over the algae stains, let it sit for about 20 minutes, and then rinse it off with a hose.

NOTE: The bleach solution run-off can harm or kill plants, so before you start, hose down any plants that may come into contact with the solution, or hose them and cover them with plastic sheeting for extra protection. When you’re done, hose them down again.

The store-bought method

If you’re not the type to mix potent home brews, try Wet & Forget Outdoor Cleaner, a ready-made, bleach-free solution with a solid reputation for conquering rooftop algae. Unlike many other products on the market, Wet & Forget is EPA registered and biodegradable. A single gallon container makes six gallons of solution. It has some other advantages, such as:

• Conserves water, since it requires no scrubbing or rinsing
• One-step application: Spray and walk away
• Works with the wind and rain to do its job over time
• Eliminates algae, moss, lichens, mold, or mildew
• No bleach, non-acidic (pH level of 8), and no phosphates
• Unlimited shelf life
• Stores indefinitely in the sprayer after mixing
• Safer for shingles than bleach
• Safe for all outdoor surfaces, such as decks, slabs, fences, and stone paths
• Keep shingles clean for more than a year

Zinc or copper keeps those shingles clean

Whether you choose home-made or store-bought, repeated use of chemicals may shorten the life of your shingles. That’s why the best solution is to prevent the algae from coming back. As mentioned above, galvanized metal containing zinc or copper is toxic to roof algae and can keep it from returning.

Install a 2” to 4” strip of copper- or zinc-coated sheet metal along each side of your roof just beneath the ridge. Pure copper is more toxic to algae, but galvanized sheet metal is far cheaper to buy and is readily available from most home stores.

If you’re confident working on the roof, attach these strips with roofing nails or screws with rubber washers. If you have reservations about penetrating your roof’s protective seal, call a professional roofer to do this job for you.

Replace with algae-resistant shingles

If it’s time to replace your roof, ask for algae-resistant shingles with copper granules mixed in. They may cost a bit more, but avoiding those ugly streaks may be worth the price.

While those unsightly streaks of algae may not really harm your roof, there’s no need to live with them if you choose otherwise. Clean them off, and then take steps to keep them from coming back.

Buy or selling a home in or near Asheville?

Avoid unpleasant surprises! Contact Asheville Home Inspector Peter Young before signing any contracts. Call (828) 808-4980, or click here to make an appointment online.

The post Eliminate ugly roof algae and keep it away appeared first on Peter Young Home Inspections.

(Ominous music plays…) “Your roof is old and failing and will need replacement soon.” These words can be a real bone of contention between buyers and sellers during a home sale transaction. Multiple factors can lead to such a proclamation, and some can be open to interpretation, leading buyers and sellers to come to different conclusions when viewing the same conditions. However, if your roof looks battered and worn, the chances of a buyer gritting his teeth and signing a purchase contract may be slim to none. To simplify the subject, let’s take a look at when a roof needs repair and when it needs to be replaced.

To repair or replace: That is the question! 

Roof replacement is a serious expense. That’s why it’s tempting to get the most life out of your existing roof as you possibly can. So it’s important to get a qualified opinion on the problem you are experiencing in order to decide whether to repair or replace. You must first answer this question: What is wrong with your roof? Is it leaking at a penetration (such as a plumbing stack or vent pipe) or a juncture where different materials are joined together? Is the roof getting too old and past its useful life, or was it installed improperly? A home inspection can get to the heart of your problem. If the problem is determined to be a leak at a penetration of a juncture, this may be repairable without the need to tear off the whole roof. Depending upon the size of your roof, replacement can cost in the range of $5,000 to more than $8,000 (for shingle roofs). Simple flashing repair around a penetration might cost a few hundred dollars. You have to weigh the cost of repair versus replacement. Let’s say your roof is made of architectural shingles. You get a repair estimate of $3,000, but your roof is old and near the end of its useful life. The cost of replacement comes in at $6,500. In this case it’s probably time to bite the bullet and spring for roof replacement, especially if the roof looks damaged or decayed. Nothing puts the brakes on a home sale like a roof that appears neglected or dilapidated. This scenario changes if you are the handy sort who can do roof repairs. You might be able to do that $3,000 repair for just a few hundred dollars in materials. However, this isn’t an option for most homeowners. If you don’t know what you’re doing, you can make the problem a lot worse. Not to mention that roof work can be hazardous to your health if you should fall and injure yourself. 

A roof’s useful life 

When considering repair or replacement, you must take into consideration what is considered a roof’s useful life. This depends upon the composition of the roof in question.   Metal, slate, and tile roofs can last up to 50 years. Wood shake roofs are estimated to last about 30 years. Architectural shingles can hold up around 20 to 25 years (depending on climate conditions), while their lesser cousins, flat shingles, may last about 15-20 years.   Knowing the age of the roof is an important consideration in the repair or replace decision. If you’re looking at flat shingles that have been up there for 18.5 years, you probably don’t want to invest money in repairs, since the roof is coming near the end of its useful life. Click here to check out what Good Housekeeping says about knowing if it’s roof replacement time.

Finding a roofer 

Whether you need repair or replacement, finding a roofer should not be taken lightly. You need a reputable company that will deliver on its promises with an eye for quality and a reputation for honesty.  A good place to start is the Better Business Bureau. Click here for a list of roofers near Asheville. You can type a different location into the search bar, such as Hendersonville, Fletcher, etc. Look for businesses that have both BBB accreditation and an A+ rating. Or if you can’t find both, go for the A+ rating, at the very least.

Call Peter Young Home Inspections 

Not sure if your roof needs repair or replacing? Call Asheville Home Inspector Peter Young.  He’ll inspect your roof, advise you on its condition, and help you make a decision to repair or replace.  Click the link below to make an appointment today.

The post Should you replace or repair your roof? appeared first on Peter Young Home Inspections.