Freezing temperatures, howling winds, and ice dams the size of Samurai swords…

Spring is finally here! The birds are singing, daffodils are pushing through the soil, and your house is groaning like it just woke up from a three-month bender.

Truth is, winter is incredibly tough on your home. Between freezing temperatures, howling winds, and ice dams the size of Samurai swords, your beloved abode has been working overtime just to keep you from turning into a human popsicle. 

Now that spring has sprung, your house has a massive “winter hangover.” It’s creaky, it’s leaky, and there’s a distinct possibility it’s hiding some regrettable decisions in the basement.

Here at Peter Young Home Inspections, we know what winter can do! Think of us as the metaphorical aspirin and strong cup of black coffee your home desperately needs right now. To help you nurse your property back to health, we’ve put together this nifty spring recovery guide.

Roofs and Gutters: Curing the Hangover

Your roof took the brunt of winter’s wrath. It wore a heavy bonnet of snow and ice without complaining, but now it’s feeling the aftereffects.

• The Shingle Check: Grab a pair of binoculars (so you don’t actually have to climb a ladder right now) and scan your roof from the yard.
• Look for missing, cracked, or curling shingles. Winter winds love to rip these off, leaving your roof exposed to spring showers.
  • The Remedy: If you spot damage, call a local roofing professional to patch in new shingles. Unless you have excellent balance or a death wish, leave steep roof repairs to the pros.
• The Gutter Cleanse: Your gutters are currently stuffed with wet leaves, twigs, and whatever treasures the neighborhood squirrels decided to hoard. Have you heard about the lady who found Elvis in her gutters?
  • The Remedy: Grab a sturdy ladder, a pair of thick gloves, and a bucket. Scoop out the muck, then flush the gutters with a garden hose to make sure the downspouts are clear. Reattach any gutters that are pulling away from the fascia board.

• The Gutter Cleanse: Your gutters are currently stuffed with wet leaves, twigs, and whatever treasures the neighborhood squirrels decided to hoard. Have you heard about the lady who found Elvis in her gutters?
  • The Remedy: Grab a sturdy ladder, a pair of thick gloves, and a bucket. Scoop out the muck, then flush the gutters with a garden hose to make sure the downspouts are clear. Reattach any gutters that are pulling away from the fascia board.

Foundation & Exterior: Treating Dry, Cracked Skin

When the ground freezes and thaws, it expands and contracts. This phenomenon, known as frost heave, can do a number on your foundation and exterior.

• Hunt for Cracks: Take a slow walk around the perimeter of your house. Look for new cracks in the foundation, brickwork, or stucco.
  • The Remedy: Small, hairline cracks can easily be sealed with a polyurethane masonry caulk to keep moisture and bugs out. However, if the crack is wider than a penny or looks like a jagged staircase, skip the DIY and call a structural engineer.
• Check the Grading: The dirt around your house should slope away from your foundation. Winter has a sneaky way of eroding this soil.
  • The Remedy: Grab a shovel and pack some dense topsoil (not mulch, which retains water) around the foundation. Tamp it down so it creates a gentle downward slope away from your house, redirecting rainwater into the yard and out of your basement.

Attic & Basement: Evicting Uninvited Guests

When the temperature dropped last winter, every critter in the neighborhood started looking for a warm place to crash. 

Unfortunately, your attic and basement were the hottest clubs in town.

Check the Grading: The dirt around your house should slope away from your foundation. Winter has a sneaky way of eroding this soil.

• The Basement Sweep:  Go downstairs with a good flashlight. You are looking for moisture, efflorescence (that powdery white stuff on concrete), or a musty smell that screams “mold.”
  • The Remedy: If the air feels damp, invest in a good dehumidifier and let it run continuously. If you find active puddles, trace the source and seal the interior concrete walls with waterproofing paint.
• The Attic Inspection: Pop your head into the attic. Look for shredded insulation, droppings, or daylight peeking through the roof boards.
  • The Remedy: If you find evidence of a rodent rave, you need to evict them. Seal off entry points from the outside using steel wool and caulk (mice can’t chew through steel wool). Set traps inside, or better yet, call a pest control service to play bouncer and clear the room.

Windows & Doors: Fixing Creaky, Leaky Joints

Grab a caulking gun and run a fresh bead of exterior-grade silicone caulk around the window frames.

Winter is notorious for ruining weatherstripping. Expanding ice and shrinking wood can leave your windows and doors feeling woozy and off-balance.

• The Breeze Test: On a windy spring day, run your hand around the edges of your closed windows and doors. If you feel a breeze, your weatherstripping has given up the ghost.
• The Remedy: Peel off the old, cracked weatherstripping and wipe the door jamb or window frame clean. Apply new self-adhesive foam or rubber stripping. For the exterior, grab a caulking gun and run a fresh bead of exterior-grade silicone caulk around the window frames to seal out the spring rain.

Need a Professional Diagnosis?

Nursing a house through a winter hangover takes time, effort, and a keen eye. While this DIY checklist is a great place to start, sometimes you need a professional to give it the real hairy eyeball!

If you notice something concerning, or if you just want the peace of mind that comes from knowing your home is in top shape for the year ahead, we’re here to help. We’ll comb through your home from the chimney to the basement floor, giving you a comprehensive breakdown of what’s working, what’s not, and what needs a little TLC.

Don’t let your house suffer through spring. Give us a call today , and let’s get your home ready to enjoy the sunshine!

Buying or selling a home in WNC?

Avoid unpleasant surprises! Contact Asheville Home Inspector Peter Young before signing any contracts. Call (828) 808-4980, or click here to make an appointment.

The post Winter Home Hangover: A Guide to Spring Detox appeared first on Peter Young Home Inspections.

Basements have a sketchy reputation. Things lurk down there: forgotten holiday decorations, that treadmill you swore you’d use, and (unfortunately) that dreaded musty smell that hints at water problems.

A wet basement is more than just an annoyance; it’s a structural liability, a potential health hazard (hello, mold!), and a destroyer of perfectly good board games. However, the mere thought of excavating your entire yard to waterproof from the outside can feel like a Herculean task, a muddy, expensive, and frankly, back-breaking endeavor. So, the question arises, with a glint of desperation in your eyes: “Can I waterproof my basement from the inside?”

The short answer, delivered with a sigh of relief, is YES. You absolutely can. 

While not always the permanent “cure-all” for every single problem, interior waterproofing methods are highly effective for patching and managing some common issues. Think of it less as a miracle cure for a sinking ship, and more as installing a robust, internal life raft. Let’s take a quick look.

Find the Source, Of Course, Of Course!

Don’t just assume the water is seeping up from a mysterious underground spring where a forgotten pirate treasure is buried (though wouldn’t that be nice?). 

Look for signs: water stains on the walls, efflorescence (that powdery white mineral deposit that looks like your wall is shedding its skin), and of course, puddles.

Is the water seeping through cracks in the foundation? Is it coming up from the floor? Pinpointing the source is the first and most crucial step.

Once you’ve identified your foe, it’s time to choose your weapon.

Your Interior Arsenal: Sealing & Drainage

One of the most popular and effective interior waterproofing methods involves a combination of sealing and drainage. This is often the go-to solution for walls that are seeping water through small cracks or porous concrete. The process typically starts with a thorough cleaning of the walls to remove any paint, debris, or efflorescence. You need a clean slate for the products to adhere properly.

Next, you can apply a waterproof paint or sealant. These specialized coatings, often sold at your local hardware store, are designed to create a barrier on the interior surface of the foundation walls. Think of it as a super-tough, water-resistant skin for your basement. While this can be a fantastic first line of defense for minor dampness, it’s not a magical fix for major leaks.

If you’re seeing a steady stream of water running down a portion of your wall, paint alone will simply peel and fail under the pressure. For more significant water intrusion, you’ll need to go a step further and install an interior drainage system. This is a game-changer. 

An interior drainage system, also known as a French drain or weeping tile system, can be installed along the perimeter of the basement floor. Dig a trench, put a perforated pipe inside, and cover it with gravel. 

This system’s genius lies in its ability to capture water as it enters the basement from the walls and floors, and then channel it to a sump pump. The sump pump, a hero in its own right, then ejects the water safely away from your home. This method doesn’t stop the water from entering, but it brilliantly controls and redirects it, keeping your basement floor dry and your sanity intact. We highly recommend hiring a professional to set this all up.

Hydraulic Cements and Sealants

Another tool in your internal waterproofing arsenal is hydraulic cement. This isn’t your average concrete; it’s a fast-setting material specifically designed to stop active water leaks.

If you have a specific, gushing crack in your foundation wall, hydraulic cement can be a lifesaver.

It expands as it sets, creating a tight seal that even a determined drip will have a hard time getting past. Applying cement can feel like a high-stakes, race-against-the-clock kind of project, but the satisfaction of watching a leak disappear is unmatched.

Finally, don’t underestimate the power of simply sealing cracks. For smaller, hairline cracks in the floor or walls, using a quality concrete crack sealant can make a world of difference. It’s a bit like putting a band-aid on a scrape. It’s not for a gaping wound, but it’s perfect for preventing a small problem from becoming a big one.

Look Beyond the Walls

So, you’ve painted, drained, and sealed, and your basement is now a dry, usable space where you can finally set up that home gym without fear of your rowing machine floating away. Give yourself a high five!

But here’s the crucial point, the grand finale, the “but wait, there’s more!” of the waterproofing world.

While interior waterproofing is a brilliant and effective solution for many basement woes, it’s crucial to understand what it’s doing. It’s managing the water, not necessarily stopping its source. If you have a significant issue with exterior hydrostatic pressure – water building up against the outside of your foundation walls and actively pushing its way in – interior solutions are a powerful defense, but they aren’t addressing the root cause. This is where you have to look outside. 

Poor grading, clogged gutters, or a failing exterior foundation drain can all be the true culprits. You’ve fixed the symptoms, but to ensure your basement stays dry for the long haul, you may need to address the source of the problem by improving your yard’s drainage and ensuring water is directed away from your home’s foundation. It’s the difference between patching a leaky roof and just putting buckets under the drips. Both will work, but only one is a real fix. 

So, enjoy your dry basement, but keep an eye on the bigger picture. Consider asking a professional to assess your home’s foundation.

Buying or selling a home in WNC?

Avoid unpleasant surprises! Contact Asheville Home Inspector Peter Young before signing any contracts. Call (828) 808-4980, or click here to make an appointment.

The post Out, Out, Damp Spot: A Short Guide to Waterproofing a Basement From the Inside appeared first on Peter Young Home Inspections.

A special message from Peter Young

Recently, Western North Carolina was struck by a weather disaster of historic proportions. Much of Asheville and surrounding areas sustained heavy damage to property and infrastructure. Some areas were all but obliterated.

Nobody is certain about when power and water will be restored throughout the region. Stay informed about relief efforts and conditions in the area.

Please avoid falling for and spreading all the misinformation circulating on social media. Pitch in to help your neighbors where and when you can.

Here is a list of resources from the North Carolina Department of Public Safety.

Wishing you and your loved ones a safe and speedy recovery from the storm.

Peter Young Home Inspections is open for business to take care of all your home inspection needs.

If you suspect your home was damaged in the recent hurricane, we are offering limited storm damage inspections, such as:

• Roof
• Exterior
• Basement
• Attic
• Crawlspace

Please call Peter Young at 828-808-4980 for pricing.

NOTE: For regular home inspections, please see our contact information below to arrange an appointment.

The time to prepare for disaster is NOW

Natural weather disasters can strike at any time, leaving homeowners scrambling to protect their family and their home. While we can’t prevent these disasters from occurring, we can take proactive steps to prepare our homes and minimize their impact to life and property.

In this post, we will discuss simple and effective ways to prepare your home for various natural weather disasters, including hurricanes, tornadoes, floods, and winter storms.

Here’s a readiness checklist of tasks to do before a weather emergency is breathing down your neck.

Let’s start on the outside of your home. These steps should be taken well in advance of a storm’s arrival.

• Trim trees and shrubs: One of the most important things you can do to protect your home is to trim any trees or shrubs near your roofline. Branches can break off during storms and crash down on your roof. Also, inspect trees that are within falling distance of your home. If they are old and appear weak and rotted, arrange for a professional to remove them. Falling trees can destroy your home and cause serious injury or death.
• Clean gutters and downspouts: Clogged gutters and downspouts can lead to water damage to your roof and cause flooding near entryways during heavy rain. Make sure gutters and downspouts are clean and free of debris.
• Secure outdoor objects: Put away any outdoor objects that could blow around in the wind, such as lawn furniture, toys, flower pots, hanging baskets, and garbage cans.
• Install storm shutters or storm windows: Storm shutters and storm windows can help protect your windows from damage during high winds and in the event of flying debris.
• Consider a whole-house generator: A whole-house generator can provide backup power during a power outage. These are expensive, but well worth the price if power is out for days. If you are considering a whole-house generator, be sure to have it professionally installed. Improper installation can cause serious injury or death. Click here to learn more about whole-house propane generators.
• Install a buried propane tank: A buried propane tank can provide a reliable source of fuel for your generator. Go for 500 or even a thousand gallons, if you’re looking for longer-term protection. This, too is costly, but can bring real peace of mind during extended outages. Some companies will sell you the tank, but many others rent it for a nominal annual price. If you rent the tank, then you must buy propane from that same company. Some companies will bury the tank as part of the deal, but others leave it up to you to find a company to do the deed.
• Install a propane heater that needs no electricity. If you’re burying a propane tank, why not have a propane heater installed in your main living area? Be sure it’s one that requires no electricity to operate. Empire heaters can operate as radiant heaters during power outages. They also have fans to help distribute the heat when the power is on. Do a search online for distributors in your area. NOTE: We recommend only direct vented heaters. And always have a carbon monoxide detector in the room with your heater.
• Prepare your fireplace or wood stove: If you have a fireplace or wood burning stove, be sure to have your chimney or flue pipe inspected and cleaned annually. Also, be sure you have enough wood stored to get you through several weeks in a winter emergency.
• Check your roof: Inspect your roof for damage after a storm. If you find any damage, be sure to have it repaired quickly to avoid additional property damage.

Interior home preparations

These are the steps we recommend for the inside of your home, and to be sure your family is prepared for emergencies.

• Develop an evacuation plan: If you live in an area that is prone to natural disasters, it is important to have an evacuation plan in place. Decide where you will go and how you will get there.
• Prepare your family: Talk to your family about what to do in case of a natural disaster. Make sure everyone knows where to go and how to contact each other.
• Assemble a disaster supply kit: A disaster supply kit should include everything you need to survive for several days without power or water. This kit should include food, water, first aid supplies, flashlights, a battery-powered radio, and a change of clothes.
• Change batteries in smoke detectors and carbon monoxide detectors: Make sure your smoke detectors and carbon monoxide detectors have fresh batteries.
• Stock up on supplies: Stock up on essential supplies, such as canned food, water, and batteries. If you have a gas stove, you can cook with it during power outages,
• Have a backup plan for communication: If your phone lines are down, you may need to use a backup method of communication, such as a satellite phone or a ham radio. A ham radio will require a source of electricity.

Some additional steps you need to take

Wait! You’re not done yet.

Once you’ve covered the steps above, here are additional recommendations to be prepared for weather emergencies:

• Stay informed: Stay informed about the weather forecast and any impending storms.
• Be prepared to evacuate: If you are ordered to evacuate, be prepared to leave immediately.
• Stay safe during a storm: If you are caught in a storm, stay indoors and away from windows.
• Sign up for emergency alerts: Sign up for emergency alerts from your local government. This will help you stay informed about any impending storms.
• Learn first aid: Learn basic first aid so that you can help yourself or others in case of an emergency.
• Support your community: Volunteer with your local emergency management agency or Red Cross. This will help you learn more about disaster preparedness and response.
• Stay calm and collected: If a natural disaster strikes, it is important to stay calm and collected. This will help you think clearly and make good decisions.
• Have a plan for flushing toilets if you have a well and the power goes out: If you have a well and the power goes out, your well pump will not be operational to provide your toilets (or the rest of your home) with water. However, you can still flush your toilet by using a bucket of water. Fill several five-gallon bottles with water before the storm strikes. Another trick is to fill your bathtub prior to the storm to fill your bucket. Test this out and be sure your tub drain holds the water. If it doesn’t there are drain plugs available at hardware stores. Just fill your bucket with water and pour it into the toilet tank to the proper level. This will allow you to flush the toilet and help to prevent sewage or septic backups.
• Never use portable propane or other fuel camping stoves indoors: Use of camping stoves indoor creates carbon monoxide, which can lead to serious injury or death.

By taking these steps, you can help to ensure that you and your family are safer and more prepared for whatever comes your way.

Buying or selling a home in Asheville?

Avoid unpleasant surprises! Contact Asheville Home Inspector Peter Young before signing any contracts. Call (828) 808-4980, or click here to make an appointment.

The post How to prepare for weather disasters appeared first on Peter Young Home Inspections.

People often ask, “What is radon, and do I need to be concerned about it?” 

Let’s address this as two questions. First, radon is an invisible, odorless, and tasteless gas produced by the natural decay of uranium in soil and water. Nationwide, radon gas is the second leading cause of lung cancer after cigarette smoking. Speaking of cigarettes, statistics show that smokers are 10 times more likely to die of cancer when radon is present in the home. 

The US Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) reports the national average radon level is 1.3pCi/L (picocuries per liter of air). In 2012 the State of North Carolina reported that several counties in WNC had radon levels higher than the national average, including Buncombe 3.2 pCi/L, Swain 5.3, Jackson 3, Graham 5.5, Cherokee 5.5 and Macon 2.5. Readings vary across the region, and the radon level in your home can vary greatly from your next door neighbors.

Now for the second half of the question, “Do I need to be concerned about it?” The easy answer is yes. The EPA recommends that all homes be tested for radon and mitigated if the radon concentration is 4 picocuries per liter (pCi/L) or higher.

Click here to learn more about radon and your health from the Centers for Disease Control (CDC).

So, how can you find out your home’s radon levels, and what should you do about it if your levels are too high? Let’s take a look.

Testing 1-2-3

Get your home tested for radon. Call Asheville Home Inspector Peter Young, (828) 808-4980, to arrange a test. 

Although the EPA recommends taking action if your home tests at 4.0 picocuries per liter (pCi/L) or above, the World Health Organization recommends a more cautious action level of 2.7 pCi/L. 

Mitigating circumstances

If your test reveals a high level of radon in your home, you’ll need to enlist the services of a professional radon mitigation company. The average cost of radon mitigation is around $1,500, however costs can vary from $1,000 to about $2,500, depending on specific circumstances. 

The mitigation specialists will install a device to remove radon from your home. 

Here’s a link about how radon mitigation works from the State of North Carolina.

How to find a reputable company

Since high radon levels are found throughout Western North Carolina, there are a host of companies waiting for your call. They’re not all created equal. Since North Carolina has no licensing requirements for radon mitigation, it’s prudent to practice caveat emptor (let the buyer beware). Here are some criteria you can use to find a good company:

• A good reputation. Customer reviews are a good place to start. Check on Google, Angi (formerly Angie’s List), the Better Business Bureau, and social media. Avoid companies with poor reviews or no reviews.
• Experience. Look for a company that’s been in business for years, rather than months. Experienced companies are likely to do a better job with placement of your radon mitigation system. 
• Certification and insurance. In addition to experience, look for a company with certification and insurance. The American Association of Radon Scientists and Technologists (AARST), a nonprofit, trade organization dedicated to the highest standards of excellence and the ethical performance of radon measurement, radon mitigation and knowledge transfer, offers certification for radon companies through the National Radon Proficiency Program. Additionally, certification paves the way for radon contractors to qualify for insurance. 
• Warranty protection. Ensure that your investment in radon mitigation is backed by a reliable warranty. Ask your radon professional what type of equipment they use and get details of their written warranty.
• Fair price. There aren’t any one-size-fits all systems for every home, so prices may vary, depending on the type of home, type of system, and type of fan. Prices tend to be competitive company to company, so be cautious about prices that are too high or too low. Some companies will lowball the initial price and then start throwing in add-ons once installation has begun. Be sure to get a reliable quote for your project from your radon professional.

System installation

When you find the right company and iron out all the details, it’s time for installation of the system. There are three factors a reputable company will consider: Aesthetics, effectiveness, and EPA/AARST/NRPP standards. 

Be sure to ask your technician to show you multiple location/install options. For example, if you have an unfinished basement that shares a common wall with a garage, the system can be vented through the garage to the roof, rather than through one of the home’s exterior walls.

Retesting

Radon mitigation is not “set and forget.” Once the system is installed and retested you can breathe easily for a while. However, the EPA suggests retesting the home every two years to be sure the system is still performing as intended.

Radon and new contruction

If you are planning new construction, ask your contractor about radon-resistant features. Some examples are gravel and plastic sheeting under the foundation, proper sealing of cracks, and the installation of a vent pipe. After your home is built with these features, don’t skip radon testing before moving in. If levels are elevated, have a radon fan installed. Click here for information from the EPA about radon-resistant features for new construction. 

In conclusion, discovering high radon levels in your home is not the end of the world. With proper testing and mitigation, the air quality in your home can be brought back to safe radon levels.

Buying or selling a home in Western North Carolina?

Avoid unpleasant surprises! Contact Asheville Home Inspector Peter Young before signing any contracts. Call (828) 808-4980, or click here to make an appointment.

The post What to do when your home tests high for radon gas appeared first on Peter Young Home Inspections.

Every job has its quirks, but sometimes there’s nothing quirkier than the life of a home inspector. You just never know what could be hiding in a house. This month we’ll take a look at some real clunkers. Some are funny. Some are just plain weird. But a few are dangerous.

These are just a few of the many that pop up on a typical home inspection day.

Plumber or sculptor? You decide!

American architect Louis Sullivan taught us “form ever follows function.” 

Maybe that’s what this do-it-yourself plumber was thinking when he concocted this drain sculpture beneath a bathroom sink. 

Or maybe he was drunk!

Clothes smelling odd lately?

This dryer vent is hooked into the sewer line and held in place with duct tape.   Hopefully those fuzzy dryer sheets can take out some really serious odors. If you ask me, this whole situation just stinks! 

Dirty tricks

The builder left a huge pile of dirt and junk in the basement of a brand new house. Now the only way to get it out would be with a shovel and wheelbarrow.   The owners decided instead to seal off the area. Now would be a good time for them to give us the “dirt” on the builder! 

Doing their part for cleaner air

Here’s a vacuum cleaner tube being used as a plumbing vent extension. Perhaps the homeowner was concerned about air pollution and was ready to vacuum the sky.   Maybe if all homes had this, we could reduce greenhouse gases significantly. Or maybe not. 

On the rocks!

Here’s a “tiny house” being supported on a pile of rocks. It’s only a matter of time until the house starts slipping and sliding. 

There are right ways and wrong ways to support structures. This is the quintessential example of the absolute wrong way!

It’s in the can!

Those can lights come in cans for a reason. Here’s a can light without the can. This leaves wiring exposed and subjects nearby insulation to heat – both potential fire hazards.

This is a perfect example of when NOT to kick the can down the road!

It’s a gas, gas, gas!

This is an unsafe way to run a gas line, as the concrete block may damage the line causing a leak.  Gas lines should be run through a PVC pipe at the foundation.

Gas must be taken seriously, always. Installed improperly it can cause serious injury, fire, explosion, or death.

Blowing hot and cold

When your HVAC ducts are disconnected, it’s a great way to heat or cool your crawlspace instead of your house. This home’s heating and cooling bills must be going through the roof, even though the treated air is blowing under the floor.

Buying or selling a home?

Avoid unpleasant surprises! Contact Asheville Home Inspector Peter Young before signing any contracts. Call (828) 808-4980, or click the link below to make an appointment.

The post Funny, strange, and dangerous things that pop up during home inspections appeared first on Peter Young Home Inspections.

Once upon a time, Asheville basements were little more than overgrown utility areas for storing unsightly items, housing the furnace, electrical panels, and maybe even a washer and dryer. In these times, with above ground living space getting so expensive, basements have seen a transformation into living spaces, such as rec rooms with pool tables, home theater systems, or even full bedrooms and bathrooms. This may be a convenient and inexpensive way to claim more living space in your home, but if some common basement problems are not overcome first, occupants of these spaces may be putting their health at risk. Even if you don’t use your basement as a living space, some of the problems down there can affect the rest of the house. This is why a basement inspection by a licensed home inspector is essential. There are three types of basements: 

• Unfinished
• Partially finished
• Finished 

With some variations, the same or similar problems can exist in all three.

Unfinished basements

An unfinished basement is an old-school, bare bones concrete room with no drywall, flooring, or furniture. It might be a laundry room, Dad’s workshop, or a creepy, musty storage room. Even though an unfinished basement does not count as square footage in a real estate transaction, home inspectors are required to inspect them and report any uncovered defects. Since unfinished Asheville basements have bare concrete walls, it is relatively easy for an inspector to spot a variety of issues. Here are some common problems. 

Mold & Mildew 

A stale and musty odor is a sign of water intrusion in a basement. The odor is from mold, and it means the basement is not dry. Eliminating the odor means cleaning and drying the walls, woodwork, and whatever you have stored down there. But you can’t stop there; you must find and eradicate the source of the moisture. If your land slopes toward your house, moisture intrusion will always be a problem in your basement. If you get standing water down there, you will need to install a sump pump. If it just always feels and smells moist, perhaps a dehumidifier will do. 

White residual deposits

Also called efflorescence, white residual deposits are found in basements that have water issues. The white residue is not a health risk of itself, but it can be an indicator of cracks in the foundation or walls in an unfinished basement. Cracks in the walls and floor may be superficial, but they also could be a problematic source of water intrusion. Your home inspector can determine whether the cracks are cosmetic or structural. 

Structural Defects 

Problems with walls, ceilings, and beams are easy to spot in an unfinished basement. Shoddy or incomplete joists can cause problems in the floors above. Past or present water issues can cause significant rot in wood joists, which in turn can create structural problems. 

Pest Infestations 

Roaches, ants, termites, and rodents may find a damp basement attractive. If the problem is moisture-related, it will not go away without drying up and eliminating the source of moisture. If you see signs of pests in your Asheville basement, your home inspector can arrange for a pest inspection.   

Dangerous fumes 

Basements can be contaminated with hazardous fumes. These are caused by several factors: 

• Stored solvents – since basements are used as storage spaces for household chemicals, such as paint, cleaning supplies, and solvents, be sure none of these are leaking. Prolonged exposure to chemical fumes can be dangerous to your health.
• Carbon monoxide – many homes have their furnaces in the basement. This should be inspected regularly for safe operation. When not maintained, furnaces can leak deadly carbon monoxide. Keep a carbon monoxide detector in your basement and one at the top of the stairs where you can hear it if it goes off. If the alarm sounds, get out of the house quickly and call your gas company from a safe distance.
• Radon gas – produced by the radioactive decay of uranium, radon can be found in the soil, rocks, and even in the air. Outdoors it poses no danger, but in the confines of a basement it can build up to dangerous levels. Radon levels are very hit or miss in Western North Carolina, and radon is the second leading cause of lung cancer. Your home inspector can arrange for a radon inspection. If an inspection reveals high radon levels, have your home treated by a radon remediation expert.

Partially finished basements 

A partially finished basement is just what it sounds like. Part of it is bare, but another part may have some sort of living space, such as a game room, entertainment room, workshop, or even a home office space. It may have a bathroom, but not bedrooms. There might be some drywall, but the floor could be concrete with a drain in the middle.  One thing to consider seriously: If you are spending a lot of time in an unfinished basement, you need to be sure it is a safe environment. The problems mentioned above (mold, fumes, radon, etc.) need to be addressed before spending much time down there.

Finished Basements 

A finished Asheville basement can be anything from a large, open area with flooring, a ceiling and drywall, to a complete living area with bedrooms, a bathroom, and even a kitchen. For a finished basement to count as square footage in a North Carolina real estate listing (MLS), it must be considered “heated space.” However, even if it doesn’t count as heated square footage, a well-constructed finished basement can still add considerable value to a home. 

Finished basements are not as easy to inspect as bare basements. Drywall and flooring can cover up structural defects and signs of previous water damage. If intended as living quarters, it is essential to check for mold issues, air quality, and test for radon. When a home has a finished basement, a radon inspector will set the test there. However, for homes with unfinished basements, the inspector will set up the test above grade on the first floor. Whatever type of basement a home contains, it is always best to have it checked out thoroughly by a licensed home inspector to rule out serious issues.  

Call Peter Young Home Inspections 

Buying or selling a home? Never sign any contract without first getting a home inspection!  Call Asheville Home Inspector Peter Young, 828-808-4980, or click here to make an appointment today.

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